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You bought the wrong car.

No but honestly, that power level is accessible with both supercharging or turbocharging. But first, do you need it to be reliable at the track? Because that single factor, will nearly double the price of any forced induction setup. If not, it's much easier since a street car see's almost none of the abuse a track car will.

Weekend fun with the boys. We got 370z, m3’s, audi s4’s so just enough to keep up. Not talkin about beating them at a race lol

How much money ya got?

Willing to spend 15k on the car

the issue is the stock Bottom end of the car was never meant for boost, so they get really finicky real quick

if money truely isnt an issue id be looking at tearing out the engine, and upgrading the pistons with a lower compression piston ( something like (9:1) and then upgrading the rods to something thatll hold power

after you do that, throw a turbo on the car, and then the next weakest link will be oiling. There's talk about upgrading the oil pump to something with higher pressure, but really we need something to lower cavitation

a better pickup would help, and dont forget an oil cooler

after you get that sorted youd probably need to swap out the injectors and fuel pump for more power. and there are 8 injectors on this car remember.

then the next weakest link becomes the differential. its just a small subaru 7 inch unit. never meant to take a whole bunch of power. the best idea would be a mustang IRS rear end from the newer 2016+ as its an 8.8 ring gear and can take beef'

unless you can make a Nisan R200 or R230 diff fit, those are common, after you get that sorted the next weakest link would be the transmission
I personally like the CDoo9 nissan 6 speed, but you can make a bmw ZF work, or maybe a tko500 if money isnt a problem

now just about the only thing that isnt modified is the interior.

you have to love the car an aweful lot to invest that sort of time and money, but if its up your creek. that's where Id start


MA Performance engine

Killer B Fury Turbo Kit

I personally recommend running nothing bigger than garrett sized GT3071RS, youll need the airflow to spool anything bigger.

and
Stage 2 Built heads

thats not including an aftermarket ECU, personally I wouldnt run anything less than a Link harness, though Motec would be ideal if money isnt an issue

Motec plug and play BRZ

Throw in things like an upgraded drive shaft, clutch, brakes and wheels and tires, maybe suspension if you get too wallowy with the power on stock suspension. and lets not forget a bigger radiator and intercooler upgrades. Dyno time, custom tuner..
just doing rough math, youd be about 20k into this car to dyno 350 whp


like i said you have to love this car powerful hard to put in that much effort and money

Turbo or supercharger is mostly personal preference, either one is capable of getting you to that number. I think a turbo is going to be a lot easier to make big HP numbers with, but a supercharger will be simpler and cheaper (and personally I like the way they drive better than most turbo cars).

Stock internals are generally fine up to 300-350ish. If you want to go any further than that it's going to take some beefing up. Trans will be ok up to about 300ft lb of torque at which point you need to start worrying about grenading fourth gear.

Dual oil catch cans and upgraded radiator should be considered necessary. Stock fueling system will get you to around 300whp but I think beyond that you will need to worry about pump and injectors.

I appreciate you took your time say all that. I love the way this car looks so I’m down to doing all that. But also I’m not gonna throw everything at it at the same time. Over time I wanna make this car fast and enjoyable. So thank you

Few people I spoke to say the transmission will go (4th gear) before the rods will.


Are you automatic or manual?


I only have experience with turbo.

Need to upgrade clutch first thing, then other parts while you're in there. Forged Clutch Fork, Pivot, etc.

Catch cans, oil cooler, turbo kit, EcuTek or OFT, Dyno Time/Tuning. EBC or MBC.

Stock can handle 300-350 hp, but with the rest of the money I'd go with fuel pump, injectors, forged rods, pistons, springs. Then look into transmissions.

its highly dependant on how the trans is used. its an Aisin Design and while 4th is the first thing for the trans to break, there are other things on the car that would break under normal conditions.

Hell when the trans is cold every gear shift feels like grinding gears. I havent had such a grindy gear since the rx8/s2000

also which use an aisin trans for a base.

personally I want to swap a renesis into the brz. id cheap out by getting a S2 Rx8 manual and swapping the transmission and engine together as a unit, then calculating BTU capacity and maybe upgrading the cooling system

then throwin on huge series oil coolers from the RX8 with new setrab coolers, and using the OE Rx8 wiring harness to run the engine. but its a lateral move for something that doesnt exactly dyno more hp ( it will be not alot) but for me it will change the driving characteristics of it


and in the ideal world with money not being an issue id make this

TRD Griffon

If money isn't an option hit up pure automotive and send them your car for a turn key swap. Then you can reliably make all the power.

E85 if you have access to it is highly recommended regardless of other choices you decide. Just need a flex fuel kit and corresponding tune. and you can reliably make a lot more power and manage heat much better.

The stock 2017+ FA is still fairly reliable up to 225wtq/300whp. More can be done but reliability starts to decrease. I wouldn't go beyond 250wtq/335whp if you want it to last a reasonable amount of time to be able to even enjoy. Depending on how often you drive / how hard you drive having the engine last say 30k miles may be a lot to you or may not be a lot.

a stage 2 shortblock should be able to handle 350whp no problem (with as much reliability as a built engines can be)

people have had mixed experiences with stock MT how you drive is a huge factor especially on clutch and synchros. stock MT is rated at 184 ft lbs, but people report gears shearing around 240wtq, stock clutch around 200-220wtq. CD009 trans swap isn't too difficult to swap, but for your goals MT with a clutch may be fine.

as to how to make the power, and if money isn't an issue, a well setup turbo kit will be much better then a SC for many reasons, but a SC kit to hit up to about 320whp may be a little cheaper and simpler to setup especially if you plan on doing it yourself.

Also the cost and complexity dramatically increases between 300whp or 350whp. going to 350whp you may need trans, driveshaft, axles, shortblock, wheels/tires to put power down etc... whereas 300whp pretty much can slap on most FI kits and FF/E85 tune and good to go, maybe add an oil cooler for really spirited driving, more cooling will be needed if tracking though.

more specific use, budget, specific goals can narrow things down more.

BTW this is mostly correct


the parts list i threw together is a completely reliable. clutch drop and rip everyday all day 1 hour lap sessions, no worries over built project

ive seen supercharged bolt on E85 86's dyno 300 whp and with 4.3 gears makes for a really fun time. but admittedly its just a matter of what breaks at that power level.

the real sweet spot as mentioned is about 240-260 whp. the car would do that nearly all day.

@Payload mentioned you could totally get 300hp with just a tune


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