Total newb strips his oil pan
 

You're gonna make fun of me. I accept this.

So, I have never changed my own oil before in my 20 years of driving. I got this brz a few months back (the 3rd DD of my life), and I started thinking it would be a fun project / hobby to do my own maintenance for once and learn as much as I could in the process. At the very least do my own oil changes since that's supposed to be an easy process.

I got a click torque wrench that's rated for between 10 - 150 ft lbs. I don't know what's going on with it but it doesn't seem to click ever.

After draining the oil, I grabbed the torque wrench to put the plug back in. The wrench wasn't clicking so I kept turning it thinking I had yet to get to the torque rating the plug needed. It got to the point where I was wrenching on it pretty hard, and then the resistance went way down. Then I realize that I can neither tighten nor loosen the plug.

I put the oil in and started the car up. Look below and it's dripping about one tiny drip every 2 seconds. I went for a drive and came back and it's in the same situation. I'm taking it to a real mechanic tomorrow morning and probably will need a new oil pan. If I'm lucky maybe I just stripped the plug. I'm guessing since it's a slow leak that I should be able to drive it to the mechanic rather than getting it towed.

PS while I had the car on the stands I also rotated my tires, and this same torque wrench refused to click at any point. Seeing as how many things depend on this stupid wrench, this DIY shit may not be for me.

Feel free to leave any feedback or simply poke fun at me.

And that is why I'm grabbing new torque wrench next week. I had a cheap one from crappytire which I used, but now its internal spring is broken and it stopped clicking too once proper torque is reached.

But, usually, with oil pan bolts and spark plugs, I stop when I think its tight and then I tighten is 1/4 turn more, incase I dont have torque wrench handy. Someone who takes part in rallies told me about this, when he has to make repair stops without all the tools.

Just because its rated from 10-150 ft-lb, doesn't mean it will be accurate at the lower level.. A torque wrench with that rating should be used around the 70-80 ft-lb range. Most gauges also work this way...You should have picked up a torque wrench with a lower specification. (Could even grab something that specs in-lbs for delicate things like this)

Ie. As an example, my air pressure gauge reads from 0-60 PSI, and will accurately produce readings around the ~30 psi range. Anything at the lower, or upper limit may not be as accurate.

Sorry to hear that. Don't give up on wrenching, you'll learn a lot from experiences like this. I suggest wrenching with a more experienced person by your side. He/she can help you out when you're not too sure about things like this. Good luck.

I don't think anyone will poke fun at you as there are 2 types of wrenchers, those who have mangled a simple fastener, and liars.

Was it a harbor freight torque wrench? I've had those that didn't click at all, or sometimes would slightly click. Garbage. Their 1/2" drive torque wrenches clicks well though.

All good did that a few times back in the day that's how you learn, it happens.

:eyebulge:OK, first off @Golevka........... :slap:

Now, that you have stripped the threads out of the oil pan and/or off of the drain plug, maybe your mechanic friend can re-tap the drain hole to accept a larger plug.

As far as a torque wrench, once you get the hang of wrenching, you won't need it (except to tighten down head bolts).

How do you get the "hang" of it ...... ?? Well, if when tightening bolts & nuts ..... if you strip off the threads .... it's too tight ..... if afterwards, the part falls off .... it's not tight enough ..... so, it's simply somewhere in between ..... :eyebulge:

As far as your torque wrench …… some don’t click ……they have a pointer that moves.

Now, your wheel lug nuts, I suggest you use a “X” (star) lug wrench and tighten down the lug nuts dry. Tighten until you hear 2 squeaks or you grunt twice.

Another hint on tightening most things up on cars …….. DO NOT use ½” or ¾” drive sockets (except on head bolts) …. they just twist things off …… :mad0259:

As far as the drain plug …… they have this newfangled drain petcock thing that you install and just twist to open the valve ……….. SORRY, bad idea, you would probably turn it the wrong way with your super torque wrench and twist the damn thing off ……..(sorry, I couldn’t resist …..;))



humfrz

This is the problem. I don't have an experienced person to help me. I don't have any friends who are mechanically inclined. I'm sure it would be probably a 1000% more effective way of learning vs reading things on the internet (no offense, internet).

I was a little frustrated last night but of course you can't learn something new without making a few mistakes along the way so it's all good.

This made me LOL. Thank you.

This is the one I have:
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/a...ac68/9010430-P
AutoCraft 1/2" Drive Click Torque wrench.

Great post and really funny with the emoticons, especially this one:

But yeah I think the 1/2" drive and the length of the torque wrench was part of the problem. I was able to get too much force on the plug. Oh well back to the drawing board.. Thanks for your feedback :party0030:

PS, the mechanic called and I stripped the oil pan so he ordered a new one which should arrive tomorrow. I wonder how hard the oil pan is to extract...

I think its just a few bolts and a gasket, I never really looked to be honest.

Why isn't it being drilled and retapped? Oil pan sounds expensive. Oh well, you'll get the hang of it. I've twisted off many bolts and broken many sockets on bolts that wouldn't twist. It happens. Just never tighten steel fasteners(drain plug) too tightly in an aluminum part(oil pan) because aluminum threads aren't very strong

Like @go_a_way1 mentioned ....... 11 bolts to take out and a gasket to replace.

FYI ...... since you have a "history" of over tightening bolts (;)) ...... if you ever decide to tighten the bolts on an oil pan ...... just snug them up and do a gentle 1/4 turn more.

Yep, they twist off real easy ...... which begs the question "how many crankcase pan (oil pan) bolts can you twist off and the pan still won't leak ..... ??

ANSWER: about every other one .... if you have a thick gasket and use lots of Permatex........:happyanim:

How do I know that ?...... I don't wanna talk about it ......:cry:


humfrz

Now, Ashikabi, you know that nobody "fixes" anything anymore ... they just throw new parts at it ... :(


humfrz

:(

That's part of your problem. You are using 1/2" drive on something that is only a 14mm bolt.

Absolute worst case scenario, I would've used no more than 3/8" (and even 1/4" drive if it was a super sensitive bolt so I don't accidentally overtorque it).


List price is $120. Much easier to just put on a new one than to take off, clean, fix, and reassemble... especially if the mechanic guarantees their work.

http://parts.subaru.com/a/Subaru_201...10-031-01.html

i can feel your pain ...

i started working on my cars after reading lots of online chats. One of the key insight is that a good torque wrench is a very expensive tool and needs to be frequently calibrated. so the cheap stuff we buy are not going to be useful, except for tightening lug nuts. for anything less than 40 lb ft, just hand tighten. a good rule i use is that i use a short 3/8 wrench with a short pipe. i use both when removing nuts and only use the short one when tightening. this way i won't strip a nut/bolt and i can always remove them later.

hope this helps.

A bad borrowed torque wrench bent the swingarm on the motorcycle I used to have. Invest in a good torque wrench or tighten by feel. Don't rely on a cheap torque wrench. Since then, I've bought a Precision Instruments torque wrench and it's worked well for me. I'm a fan of torquing to specs, but if you don't have a good wrench, go until it stops and then 1/4 to 1/2 turn more. Be extra careful if anything is aluminum.

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Like others have said, don't let it discourage you. You learned a valuable lesson on something that isn't super expensive. That's a win in my book.

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Hey op it's the prefect chance for you to get fumoto valve. Change oil is easy with that!


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I think this may be taking it a little far... the size of the driver does not determine your torque. Just makes it easier to over torque. I work exclusively with a 3/8 and 1/2 sockets because I've broken too many 1/4s to bother. Just be careful.

I've always went with the "hand tight" method with my oil changes, no leaks or issues. I can't imagine the drain plug over time suddenly loosening itself?

Never said anything about the driver size determining the torque.

It does make it easier to overtorque, but the more important part is using the right tool for the right bolt. 1/2" is too much for a simple oil drain plug.

-alex

If you can "crush" a crush washer on a drain plug with your bare hands ....... you must have milked a lot of cows as a kid ....... ;)


humfrz

The Tekton ones are very similar to that (purchased off amazon) I wouldn't doubt they are from a similar manufacturer

If you don't yet have a workbench set up with a vise, consider one.

I suggest going to the hardware store and pick up an assortment of nuts and bolts. Then intentionally strip them to get a feel for what's tight enough and what's too tight. Just before the fastener starts to strip, or using proper terminology, yield, it's already been over-torqued.

The old-school torque wrenches like @humfrz mentioned are really underrated. They're simple and a great tool for learning feel.

http://i.imgur.com/OEQHPkv.jpg

So, while we're on the subject of torque wrenches, how's a Craftsman torque wrench? Though my brother has a torque wrench (Craftsman as well), I'm certain that it's out of calibration and I would rather have my own anyway.

I have a couple that are probably older than you. Had them calibrated once and checked every few years. No drift. Still work fine.

Of course it's probably not realistic to compare today's product to those from 1989.

@Ultramaroon 's old torque wrench ...... :eyebulge:

You see, Ultramaroon, I figure it this way. The old torque wrenches may have lost some of their tension ...... but, we have lost some of our wrenching strength ....... so, I figure it all equals out ..... :D


humfrz

I have one that's older than I am. Works well but the during that keeps the ratchet direction locked is broken. Had it calibrated and it's good

DON"T STOP WRENCHING!!!

I started when i was 12 changing oil on my moms Mazda and all other cars and had to buy Haynes or Chilton repair manuals and actually read and decipher how to do even the easiest task. No videos,just black and white pics in a book which NEVER showed every step in a pic.

Here's Chiltons online.. http://repair.chiltondiy.com/Pub/DIY...epair&b=119615

$25 for a year access is cheap and has electrical diagrams. Then as you get better use the Factory Manual found somewhere on the interweb. Proper tools are key to easier repair. Slowly build your tool set. Buy a 3 drawer tool chest so you are compelled to fill it..lol

I only take my car to a mechanic for things I can't do myself. i.e. 4 Wheel alignment.

Have fun!!!

Wait, are we still talking about torque wrenches? ;)

Let me help you focus here ..... ;)


humfrz

lolol!!! There it is!

More than just "underrated"; From what I've read, they are actually more accurate than click types and are sometimes required for critical assemblies. Click-types are definitely more convenient, though. And cooler, too: how cool sounding is it to click-click, click-click, click-click, click-click, click-click when tightening lug nuts...

This is indeed very helpful. Thanks!