Toyota GR86, 86, FR-S and Subaru BRZ Forum & Owners Community - FT86CLUB - Checking and Changing BRZ/FR-S Engine Coolant

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Checking and Changing BRZ/FR-S Engine Coolant

GrimmSpeed DIY Guide Series

Checking and Changing BRZ/FR-S Engine Coolant

Updated 6/25/12

Introduction: This guide will illustrate how to check and change the coolant in your BRZ/FR-S.

Tools: The tools listed below are suggested for this task. Optional tools are noted.

- Rubber hose
- Drain Pan
- Funnel
- Flat head screwdriver
- Subaru Super Coolant, Item # K0670Y0001
o Manual Transmission 7.6 U.S. qt (7.2 L)
o Automatic Transmission 7.9 U.S. qt (7.5 L)

http://www.grimmspeed.com/content/im...iy/figure1.jpg

Tips:

Procedure:

A.) Checking your coolant level

1) Park the vehicle on a level surface.

2) Open the hood and locate the Coolant Overflow Reservoir. It is made of clear plastic and located directly below the Radiator Cap.

http://www.grimmspeed.com/content/im...iy/figure2.jpg

3) Check that the fluid level is between the "Full" and "Low" lines on the reservoir when the car is COLD.

http://www.grimmspeed.com/content/im...iy/figure3.jpg

4) If the level is low, add coolant to the reservoir until it reaches the "Full" line.

5) If the vehicle is cold, remove the radiator cap and verify that the coolant level is all the way up to the filler neck. If not, top off with coolant.

B.) Changing your coolant

1) Safely lift and support the vehicle. Refer to owner’s manual for preferred method.

2) Locate and remove the service hole cover on the underside of the front bumper, on the passenger side.

http://www.grimmspeed.com/content/im...iy/figure4.jpg

http://www.grimmspeed.com/content/im...iy/figure5.jpg

3) Locate the drain plug on the side of the radiator and connect a hose to the nipple. Use a hose with an internal diameter of 8mm. This allows you to drain the coolant into a container without making a mess.

http://www.grimmspeed.com/content/im...iy/figure6.jpg

4) Position your catch container under the hose, and open up the radiator's drain plug.

5) Remove the radiator cap to speed up the draining process.

6) After fully draining the radiator, tighten the drain **** plug, and reinstall the service hole cover.

7) Lower the vehicle onto the ground, and fill the radiator with coolant. Do so slowly to prevent air bubbles, and stop when you get to the filler neck.

8) Locate and open the air bleeder plug. It is towards the rear of the engine, attached to one of the heater core hoses that passes through the firewall. Unscrew the plug using a screwdriver to loosen.

http://www.grimmspeed.com/content/im...iy/figure7.jpg

9) Check the coolant level in the radiator. If the level dropped, fill it back up to the filler neck.

10) Close the air bleeder plug once fluid starts to come out of it. Otherwise continue filling the radiator.

11) Fill the coolant overflow reservoir until the level reaches "Full."

12) Replace the radiator cap, and twist to seal it. Start the engine and race the engine 5 times to about 3000rpm. Turn the engine off. Spend no longer than 40 seconds completing this step.

13) Wait for an entire minute and then remove the radiator cap. If the coolant level has dropped, open the air bleeder plug in the heater hose. Add coolant to the radiator until the fluid level reaches the radiator neck. Close the air bleeder plug.

14) Re-do steps 12 and 13 again.

15) Re-attach the radiator and reservoir caps.

16) Start the engine and turn the heater on to the maximum hot position with the blower speed set to "LO."

17) Run the engine at 2000rpm until the radiator fan starts and stops. Be careful with the coolant temperature to avoid overheating the engine.

18) Stop the engine and wait until the engine coolant temperature lowers to at most 86 degrees F.

19) Open the radiator cap. If the coolant level has dropped add coolant until the level reaches the filler neck. Also, add coolant to the overflow reservoir until it reaches the "Full" line. Re-attach the radiator cap and twist to seal it.

20) Set the heater to the maximum hot position and set the blower speed to "LO." Start the engine, and race to 3000rpm several times. If a flowing sound can be heard (from the heater core in the cabin) repeat this process from step 17 on.

Thanks. This is super helpful.

Thank you very much! I'm swapping out my radiator hoses for more engine bling (Perrin red hoses) and I needed this info! :)

I'm looking for a factory radiator hose, if anyone doesnt need theirs please let me know. The one from top of motor to back of plastic pc that has the cap.

orange or green coolant???????

Quote:

Originally Posted by 448hpsti (Post 1186628)

I'm looking for a factory radiator hose, if anyone doesnt need theirs please let me know. The one from top of motor to back of plastic pc that has the cap.

what happened to the one that came with the car?

I cut it poorly, ie its about 4mm too short. Jus thought I'd see if someone's upgrade resulted in spare hoses ..

Quote:

Originally Posted by 448hpsti (Post 1220965)

I cut it poorly, ie its about 4mm too short. Jus thought I'd see if someone's upgrade resulted in spare hoses ..

r u in ny?

Quote:

Originally Posted by NYCsubaruBRZ (Post 1221304)

r u in ny?

Arizona
Tho originally from nj and lived in NYC for a decade...

Can view the photo's.

Quote:

Originally Posted by zoth (Post 1461604)

Can view the photo's.

Sorry about that! When we launched our new website, we found a handful of broken image links. We'll have these sorted out mid-week, but feel free to give us a call with specific questions! You can ask for Chase or Matt in engineering.

Matt Beenen
Engineering

Thanks OP for the very useful DIY guide! On a side note, I realized I didn't have the correct size hose for the radiator drain spout. I found the overflow tank hose works great as it's the correct size and even the bend fits perfectly. Just pull it off the radiator nipple and it slides out of the overflow bottle. Reinstall when done!
http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/...psnba6ptda.jpg http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/...psc4iykkyi.jpg

I was following this thread and as I loosened the air bleeder plug, I unscrewed it a bit too much and it fell. I moved my car in the garage and I couldn't find it. Moved items around the area I was parked and I still couldn't find it. Maybe it fell on an underbody panel/tray or it travelled into a parallel dimension.

Does anyone know the dimensions for it (or can measure it for me)?

I feel like an idiot.

*bump* anyone have the info? Thank you!

I dropped mine also when installing. I was lucky enough to loosen a few bolts for the underbody plastic and it was sitting right there. Give it a shot you may get lucky.

Thanks for this, converting to Evans Waterless Coolant.

Is it normal that my coolant reservoir is empty at less than 30K miles? The filler neck is also dry.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Iddoit2er (Post 2123495)

Is it normal that my coolant reservoir is empty at less than 30K miles? The filler neck is also dry.

It seems factory didn't make sure to bleed all air out of the cooling system. I had same thing happened, but after I filled more in, coolant level is steady.

@GrimmSpeed thanks for this post! When you say that coolant should be up to filler neck in radiator...what does that look like? As in, you should see coolant up to ~1 inch or so below the radiator cap?

It takes few minutes if you remove water pump hose (driver side).....Warn! you cannot remove all coolant from engine and climate unit. At least you will remove 5/5.5 Lts.

http://www.grimmspeed.com/content/im...iy/figure5.jpg

Thanks! Didnt see this, i was scratching my head here googling. My fluid is yellowish and watery. The bottom of mine was so dirty i could barely notice the little door, so i used this to get as much fluid as i could:
http://contentinfo.autozone.com/znet...KFOAA/image/3/

Gets like 80%??? My guess out. It was plugged in through radiator and reservoir, also had a mini hand pump that u push and it sucks out fluid.

Thanks for the write up.

I went to a machine shop to get a head milled and the machinist said that after 30+ years the number 1 reason for head failure is improper coolant (non OEM) and not changing it every 2 years or once a year. He said failure to use proper coolant is the most common cause followed by neglect. He also said the coolant breaks down and looses it's molecular properties to protect the metals internally within 2 years. So no matter what I will be changing with the Blue coolant every 18 months which seems like a good length. This is going to be my DD so I gotta keep it in tip top shape!

I also discovered that the blue stuff is pre diluted to 50/50 mix. Most likely it has distilled water in the coolant. If you need to add to a low cooling system level and only have water, use only Distilled water. House water is a bad idea. Distilled water is like $.80 gallon.

Capacity from the service manual just for reference and requirements for non OEM coolant. Organic coolant anyone? :P

Hello to all!

Just a quick question about the coolant.

Here in Italy seem is impossible to find the Toyota/Subaru Blu stuff 50/50 so i searched other products.

Motul advice is this:

https://www.motul.com/it/en/products...inugel-optimal

https://s3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com/m...png?1332777399

Go for it?

Thanks!

I use motul, 60/40 mix

Quote:

Originally Posted by mashal (Post 2353020)

I use motul, 60/40 mix

Hello!

Did you drain all the coolant before put the motul?

Thanks! :)

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jackal84 (Post 2359586)

Hello!

Did you drain all the coolant before put the motul?

Thanks! :)

Yes sir

Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk

Toyota Blue, Subaru blue, Nissan Blue, Infiniti Blue, and Honda blue coolant are all the same - manufactured by the same company with the only difference in branding labels.

EVANS WATERLESS COOLANT ...

Do it once and not have to worry about it ever again. Well aside from checking coolant level in overflow tank

Quote:

Originally Posted by GrimmSpeed (Post 279927)

B.) Changing your coolant

1) Safely lift and support the vehicle. Refer to owner’s manual for preferred method.

Didn't see anyone answer this, but when you lift up the car to drain the coolant, does the car still have to be leveled to properly drain all the coolant out? Or is it fine to just jack up the front end?

Here's what the repair manual says... I suspect the steps assume the vehicle is on a lift lifted evenly

Quote:

Originally Posted by stevesnj (Post 2872660)

Here's what the repair manual says... I suspect the steps assume the vehicle is on a lift lifted evenly

I'm not sure - but I can tell you about when I've replaced my radiator.
Car up on jack stands, level, system fully drained by the described method.
Then as I've removed the lower radiator hose, quite a bit of extra fluid came out (half a liter maybe).

Maybe the car would drain better if slightly tilted towards the front-right. Maybe.
Or maybe it does not matter much, unless you're changing to some magical fluid that requires a full flushing of the system.

If you jack the front only, you may get a lot more fluid left in the system. Or not. You can always try. :)

I take it to replace all of the coolant you need 7.2liters (for manual trans) or 2 gallons? I should buy 2 gallons then, yes?

Yes, two gallons. Napa sells Pentofrost coolant that's usually cheaper than the branded stuff. P/N AIC 8115207

Quote:

Originally Posted by Trueweltall (Post 2877798)

Yes, two gallons. Napa sells Pentofrost coolant that's usually cheaper than the branded stuff. P/N AIC 8115207

Thanks for the tip! Does Pentofrost meet the same quality standards as the Subaru Blue?

I imagine that there are several coolants that are fine to use -- but I don't see a general consensus on what can be used outside of Subaru Blue. It's $60 for two gallons (of which I'll gladly pay) but if I can save a few dollars for a coolant that is of the same quality I'd rather do that.

Thanks!

Yes, it meets the same quality standard.

http://www.pentosin.net/specsheets/Pentofrost_A3.pdf

I suggest getting something like the Uview Airlift tool to make the job easy as cake. You can check the system for leaks and then fill it with ease without worrying about air pockets. (just make sure you clamp the overflow tank hose when you do this or else it will show that you have a leak)

What about sucking it off with a pump from the top??

So if you only got 5 quarts out, what did you do wrong?

Was I suppose to unscrew the bleeder screw to get the rest out?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Silverz (Post 3185630)

So if you only got 5 quarts out, what did you do wrong?

Was I suppose to unscrew the bleeder screw to get the rest out?

My question would be the same(ish).

Here on the other side of the pond, Subaru blue is unobtanium even at Subaru dealerships, however, Toyota sells the blue coolant in one liter bottles. Price is quite high, thus I would like to know how many bottles I need to buy.

In my experience, the OEM provided coolant quantity refers to the full amount of coolant and such amount is not necessary for coolant change.

Does anybody measured the actual amount was necessary during the coolant change?

Quote:

Originally Posted by mausr (Post 3576399)

Does anybody measured the actual amount was necessary during the coolant change?

Coolant change has been done: 5 liters were more than enough.