Shifting during
 

I noticed that when i shift to second gear when the car its still a bit cold the shift does not go and i have to try twice in order to shift successfully.

I have also niticed this when downshifting from third to second or sixth to third. My car has 12k miles. I will be taking the car for the 12k maintenance on friday and i will bring this up to subaru but just wondering if any of you guys know if this is normal.

It's because the stock manual transmission fluid sucks
Get Motul Gear 300 manual transmission fluid makes a big difference


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so if i tell the dealer they wont do anything? how often is the manual fuild suppose to b changed ?

Yeh I switch a month ago to Motul, 2nd is less sticky but it's still there. I just run through the gate a few times all gears to just loosen things up a little

Buy the Motul gear 300 take it to them depending how cool they are they'll do it for you or if not ask about the Subaru Extra S that ones pretty good too
I think you're supposed to change trans oil every 22k miles or every 2 years


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When the synchros in the transmission are cold they don't like to work as smoothly.

Solution: When vehicle is cold, stay in first gear for a few extra seconds before you change into second gear. Yes, the engine will sound a bit loud and it'll feel weird staying in first gear, but you'll warm up the synchro in a matter of seconds and shifting into second will be nice and smooth. Problem solved!

In addition, what I do (after the cold engine has done it's start up dance ... plus about 10 seconds) is to wind up the engine to about 4,000 rpms, then pull (or push) the shift lever firmly but slowly through the gate, into the next gear.

Unless you're in a hurry to get away from your lady friends house/apartment before her husband gets home ....... what's your big hurry ......?? ........:slap:


humfrz

Uhhhh.... oddly specific

You can just ask dealer to put in the transmission fluid of ur choice, obviously u have to bring it to them.

Stock fluid has really good feel once warmed up but when it's cold...........ya......:thumbdown: I hate driving to work in the morning with stock fluid.

Did anyone else realize he said from 6th to 3rd...? A notchiness in shifting is the last thing im worrying about going from 6th to 3rd, unless im heel toeing at the track, lol

yeah and i dont do this often and if i do i rev match on the proper rpm, it was just odd that recently i noticed that the shift did not go on the first try.

Springs
 

Above advices, motul fluid and mtec shift springs

These transmissions LOVE to be rev match down shifting. I notice the same thing about 2nd gear when its cold, but I've also noticed when its cold I baby the hell out of it and take way to long to shift into 2nd and the rpms drop to idle. If your like me, try shifting a little quicker when its cold and should be easier. Double clutching helps too but that's not really necessary lol. and +1000 for motul

In both cases it's a late attempt at engagement after allowing the input section to spool down too low. Never force it.

Rev-matching and double-clutching are completely different animals. If you are not double-clutching your 6-3 shifts, get ready for the 22 Kmi transmission replacement.

Please note the locations of the people recommending motul. After seeing how often its recommend here, I tried it. In cold weather it was much harder to shift than the stock fluid was. I had the motul removed and ended up with a 50:50 mixture of Redline 85 and 80. I store my car for the winter so it hasn't seen any truly cold temps, but even down to 0 it shifts fine. It's a touch stiff for the first shift, but the difference in shift speeds from cold to hot is a fraction of a second, not tens of seconds like with the motul fluid.

:readclose:

like i said last night, these two things deff help with second gear and an overall better shifter feel

http://www.ft86speedfactory.com/mtec...l#.Vhe7SflViko

pretty good price for Motul 300 for the diff and trans
http://www.modbargains.com/frs-brz-t...811-100118.htm

oh wow i was not aware of that. So you are saying that you should not rev match from 6 to 3rd without putting to neutral first? definitely dont want to mess up my transmission :S

Trans/diff fluids are 5yr/60k miles.

The syncros are basically little clutches for each gear. They slip until the input and output sides of the transmission match speed for the selected ratio. Very little (no) wear occurs during a normal shift because the speeds match before that thin film of lubricant is squeezed out.

Consider the inertia of the clutch disc. For every downshift the syncro slips until the input side of the transmission (and that heavy disc) is accelerated up to match the output side. Skipping gears in both directions is hell on a transmission unless done properly.

For upshifts the solution is easy. Be patient in neutral. Pause for a bit and apply only the slightest pressure when engaging the target gear. You'll get feel for how long it takes to spin down on its own. Remember, though, even with the slightest pressure, you're squeezing the oil out of the syncro. The idea is to practice learning how long to pause before engaging the target gear. You will find the 3-6 shift takes a loooong time. Almost not worth it.

For downshifts, double-clutch.

neutral
clutch engaged
rev engine above target rpm
disengage clutch before engine speed drops
apply slight pressure to engage target gear.

Boom - like butter.


The other more practical and easier method is to always spread the wealth between each gear. Just leave the clutch depressed and rake through all the gears you intend to skip. Takes a little longer but it's actually the more accepted approach. You'll see the pros do it all the time.

At 12 Kmi, you're still ahead of the game. You'll be fine :thumbsup:

It's a similar issue with cold 1-2 shifts. The gear oil is like molasses and the whole input side quits spinning as soon as it goes into neutral. If you pause at all, you will notice how notchy it feels even pulling out of first.

The trick here is to get pressure on that second-gear syncro quickly before the input side spools down.

If you miss the opportunity, no need to force. Double-clutch is your friend. Just spool up the input side and try again.

Don't skip gates.

Clutch in, go 6 > 5 > 4 > 3, clutch out.

I think I'm about to learn something :happyanim:

why?

u mean if im in sixth gear to presh the clutch and go to fifth, fourth and then third quickly and then release the clutch? first time im hearing about that, i have only 10 months driving the car and its my first manual so bare with me.

Revmatching alone does not change the amount of work the synchros do. Revmatching brings up the engine speed to be at the appropriate speed to match the wheel rotation speed.

Synchros work when you put your shifter into the gate. Each synchro is designed for a small load, with the largest possible load being when you shift from redline in the previous gear. In this case, the third gear synchro is expected to see a maximum of about ~2500 (engine) rpm of work.

Now, lets say you're going 70mph, and you shift from 6th to 3rd. You just made that 3rd gear synchro match the RPMs from about 2700 to 6300. That's ~3600rpm, and more than it was ever designed to do. If you go 6-5-4-3, then the work is split between multiple synchros, and done over a larger period of time, working out to roughly 600, 800, 1000, and 1200 rpms each.


For an extreme example, try this. At 45mph, try to put the shifter into 1st. It may be difficult, but you can. If you do it quickly, you'll really have to muscle it into the 1st gear gate. However, if you just gently hold the shifter against the resistance, you'll hear a high pitched whine, and then the shifter will eventually just slip in with minimal effort. That high pitched whine is the synchro working and bringing the midshaft up to speed. ***DO NOT*** let your clutch out, or you will most likely destroy your engine. This example is to illustrate synchro load.

I just wanted to emphasize that ....... some folks read things too fast and skip parts ..... :eyebulge:


humfrz