CAE Ultra Shifter install...
 

The following DIY will cover the process I used to install the CAE Ultra Shifter, since there is zero documentation that comes with it (at least I didn't receive any) and are some area's that are a little tough.

Tools and items needed:

• 10mm, 12mm,13mm, and 14mm sockets
• Ratchet for sockets
• 13mm & 14mm wrench
• #2 Phillips head screwdriver
• Flat head screwdriver
• Cheap 3" C-clamp that you can modify (used for pushing the pin into the shifter shaft ...super tight tolerance that cannot be done by hand)
• Some kind of spacer/bushing that has a larger ID than the pin diameter on the shaft coming out of the transmission (used for pushing the pin completely out the shifter shaft) The pin shaft is just under 10mm.
• Pliers/channel-locks to use with the clamp
• Tool of preference to cut the center console as necessary to allow fitment with shifter installed
• grease
• 2.5mm allen wrench
• Some type of sealer/staking compound to apply to the set screws ( I used some old Vibratite VC-3 which we had at work, RTV would be a good alternative )

NOTE: The car must be lifted up to work from underneath for connecting the CAE shifter shaft to the transmission pin, would be best to do this first thing.

Reference: The DIY thread by F1point4 for the Perrin rear shifter bushing install covers most of what will be done here with all the needed torques and diagrams for the parts from the FSM. Link to it here: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19767


Also, it is highly recommended to have stiffer engine and transmission mounts with this shifter due to it's precise and positive shifting nature. I installed the Perrin Engine mounts and transmission support at the same time but am not covering them in this DIY. Picture of what I all installed when doing the CAE Ultra Shifter install:

https://vracer111.smugmug.com/Cars/S...CAE-Perrin.jpg

What you get when ordering the CAE Ultra Shifter from Hard Motorsports:

https://vracer111.smugmug.com/Cars/S...z/0/O/CAE1.jpg

https://vracer111.smugmug.com/Cars/S...Z/0/O/CAE2.jpg

https://vracer111.smugmug.com/Cars/S...K/0/O/CAE3.jpg

SECTION I: REMOVING STOCK SHIFTER ASSEMBLY

1. Remove side kick panels from each side of the dash console located under the dash area on each side (pull straight out towards the door)
2. Remove hand brake boot assembly from center console (pull straight up)
3. Remove shift knob then shifter boot/trim ring/traction control buttons assembly (start at the area where the shifter boot meets it and pry it straight up, prying it all up from front to back to work it loose and disconnectd the electrical switch connection)
4. Remove storage bin/USB/line-in assembly from dash console (push out from behind using area exposed from removing the kick panels)
5. Remove center console storage bin and rubber bottom from center console then remove the 6 Phillips head screws that attach it to the car and take out the console (don't forget to unplug the 12V socket before removing).
6. Remove the foam/acoustic dampening material ring piece around the shifter mechanism by unthreading the two white retaining caps then pull it out.
7. Remove the four 12mm bolts holding the metal bracket that is over the rubber shift boot and was under the foam/acoustic dampening material ring, take out the metal bracket (this will be reinstalled with the new mechanism later unless you don't want a center console installed...it has the two mount locations for the center console that are located rear of the shifter)
8. Remove the rubber shifter boot

[from under the car do steps 9-13]
9. Remove black fiberglass undertray
10. Remove the front pipe from the exhaust (14mm wrench on cat side and 12mm socket/14mm wrench on catback side if stock)
11. Move the boot covering the catch for the pin going through the shifter shaft completely onto the transmission selector control shaft to expose the pin and catch (extremely tight fit to get the rubber expanded...will take some work and patience to try and not tear it)
12. Remove the catch and plate washer from the pin (these will be reinstalled later with the new shifter mechanism)
13. Pull the pin free from the shifter shaft

[from inside the vehicle]
14. Remove the 4 bolts (10mm) going into the reverse lockout mechanism and remove the lockout mechanism, cover plate, and shifter rod.

[back under the car]
15. Unbolt the two 14mm bolts on the driveshaft support housing (this is to allow room to remove the shift lever retainer yoke in the next few steps, it won't come out otherwise.) Also, it should go without saying, but do not let the splined driveshaft end pull past the seal and out of the transmission tail (...two people are highly recommended for removing the yoke: one to manage and adjust the driveshaft as necessary while the other one wrangles the yoke out.)
16. Remove the two 12mm bolts securing the rear shifter support bushing and remove the rear bushing (this will no longer be needed)
17. Using the flat head screwdriver, rotate the two pins that attach the shift lever retainer yoke to the transmission until they can be pulled out to all the yoke to be freed from the transmission.
18. Pull the yoke directly back to free it from the transmission then work it around the driveshaft to remove it from underneath the vehicle - making sure to not let the driveshaft come out too far from the transmission tail when trying to give enough room to remove the yoke.
19. Once the yoke is free, reinstall the driveshaft support housing with the 14mm bolts from step 15 and torque. Now you no longer have to worry about dumping your transmission fluid accidentally and having a lot of extra unplanned work to do...yay!

SECTION II: INSTALLING THE CAE ULTRA SHIFTER

[back inside the vehicle]
1. Place the CAE Ultra shifter assembly base on the transmission tunnel, DO NOT INSTALL ANY FASTENERS AT THIS TIME.

[back under the vehicle]
2. Verify there is no burr or other feature on the pin of the transmission selector shaft which would prevent the CAE Ultra shifter shaft from going on (fitment is EXTREMELY tight and I could not get it on by hand, required pressing on with a HUGE ammount of force)
3. Grease the pin and slip on one of the aluminum spacers that comes with the CAE Ultra Shifter, making sure the chamfered side is going into the pin first (NOTE: It will initially seem the ID of the washer is too small to fit on the pin, but it is not - it is just so precisely sized for the pin that there is basically zero error for it being anything but perfectly aligned to slip on, and even when finally on the pin it takes considerable force to push it all the way to the end of the pin - but it can be done by hand.
4. Using a modified 3" capacity C-Clamp (modified as necessary to fit in the tunnel area and allow to function as best as possible) press the pin into the CAE Ultra Shifter shaft - THIS WILL TAKE CONSIDERABLE EFFORT. You thought the spacer was tight...LOL...you haven't experienced anything until getting the stock pin through the CAE Ultra Shifter shaft - it fully resists all the way. [Picture of my modified C-Clamp and bushing used...]
5. Once you get the pin through the shaft and at least flush with the other side then use the bushing to allow the pin to go all the way in. No relief here either - resistance is 100% all the way.
6. Once pin is completely through with no gap between the aluminum spacer and CAE Ultra shifter shaft then install the other aluminum spacer on the pin...this will seem like a piece of cake compared to what you just finished doing but it is exactly as difficult as step 3...LOL
7. Now install the factory plate washer and catch onto the pin which were originally removed to get the stock shifter out. (SECTION I, step 12)

[back inside the vehicle]
8. Put the metal bracket (removed in SECTION I, step 7) over the CAE Ultra Shifter base and line up all the hole in the transmission tunnel, CAE Ultra Shifter base, and bracket. Loosely fasten the four 12mm bolts by hand.
9. Shove the CAE Ultra Shifter base all the way to the front of the car it can go then tighten and torque the four 12mm bolts.
10. Loosen the set screws withe the allen wrench to allow for setting up proper shifter travel, including reverse lockout paths (don't mess with setting it up at this time yet...)

[back under the vehicle]
11. VERY CAREFULLY, pull the boot on the transmission selector control shaft back over the pin in the shifter shaft. Take care not to let the catch rip the boot when trying to get it over it. This will take a lot of patience and time... If you rip it like I did then you will need to make your own boot somehow...
12. Reinstall the Front Pipe
13. Reinstall the black fiberglass undertray

[back inside the vehicle]
14. Now adjust the setscrews for the 1-2, 5-6, and reverse lockout throws until you feel it is the most natural and least binding for going through the gears. Take the time to make this as good as possible.
15. Once you have the throws adjusted with the set screws, use the sealer/staking compound to help keep the setscrews from changing their position.
16. You will need to modify the foam/acoustic material ring to fit the CAE Ultra shifter base - this is basically just taking about 1/2" more off the rear inside since the CAE base is longer, width is fine.
17. Place the modified foam/acoustic damper material ring around the CAE Ultra shifter base and over the metal bracket and push on the two white retaining caps.
18. You will need at a minimum to cut a 1" slot in the center console from between the two dash mounting screws through the shifter ring end and remove the middle bottom tab of the storage bin/USB/line-in assembly along with cutting out a notch if you will be reinstalling the center console.
19. Test fit the center console and mod as necessary for proper fitment.
20. Reinstall the center console, shifter ring trim/buttons, and hand brake boot.

Installed it should look similar to this (not my setup):

http://www.img-load.de/images-i1783331br7m6f.jpg

NOTE: I'm going to make a special inverse boot and want to show off the base and mechanism so it is a work in progress, but mine looks like this currently:

https://vracer111.smugmug.com/Cars/S...0/O/CAE-in.jpg

And all the parts you should have left over when finished:

https://vracer111.smugmug.com/Cars/S.../Leftovers.jpg

SECTION III: SO IS IT WORTH IT...

I'll put it this way...:wub: It is absolutely the best thing I have EVER done to the car! Note though that I did the Perrin Engine mounts and transmission support at the same time. The shifting feel is just unreal...videos don't even do it justice. It takes quite a bit more effort, but at the same time it is so precise with a very positive throw that just goes properly into gear with such a satisfying result. The knob height just puts it naturally where it needs to be. The reverse ring works just like stock. When getting out of reverse just make sure you go to shift like you want to go into second gear then let go of the shifter when it stops - it will automatically return back to neutral every time with the centering spring. The Perrin mounts probably help keep things nice and tight too...plus the ride quality with them has improved even more. Having that motor and transmission more firmly in place does a wonder for smoothing out harsh bumps and dips, and in making the chassis even more responsive.

I would do this install again in a heart-beat...so worth the effort!

Here's a video of someone else running their 86 with CAE Ultra Shifter on track... [ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3BiDUoBJ9uQ"]08.09.2015 Nuerburgring GP - Toyota GT86 vs. A lot of fast cars - YouTube[/ame])

Where did get it from?
Here? http://www.hardmotorsport.com/cae-ul...nd-scion-fr-s/
I remember you talking about it, but I didn't think you would do it, or at least not anytime soon. Was there a wait?
How much more effort would you say? Would a heavier knob make any difference?
So jelly.
:burnrubber:
:clap:

Yes I got it from Hard Motorsports. Took about 3 weeks, they send the order to Germany, unit gets built then shipped to Hard Motorsports and then they ship it to you. Was finally able to sell the rifle that funded this.

Shifting cannot be compared to stock... I don't know how to describe it other than it is a totally different experience from stock that nothing else can replicate. I felt the stock shifter was way too relaxed and somewhat vague in throw sometimes... the CAE Ultra Shifter absolutely lets you know that you are in gear or neutral and really doesn't require a massive amount of effort, but it does require more effort than you are initially use to. You get use to it quickly though and it becomes second nature.

Like in the video in my initial post, using the palm of the hand over the top with fingers going down onto the sides of the knob seems to work the best for shifting into all gears... you get the best feel and movement control especially when going for 5th and 6th gear. It has a self centering spring so you just bump it forwards and it will automatically go into third, backwards and automatically into 4th. Installing the shifter now makes me want to install the 320mm Momo Monte Carlo race steering wheel with red stitching I've had new in box for years now into the FR-S....

Super Glad someone has done a write up. I have been wanting to get one since I saw it. Now to find the words to use to win the purchase over on the significant other.

wow, that thing is epic looking!

Thanks for the video! I love how he's able to outbrake/corner that Merc in every damn corner.

Any idea on how much weight it saved? That big mount thing that comes off the transmission looks like it probably weighs 5 pounds on its own.

I will weigh the remaining parts at work tomorrow, but I don't know what the CAE Ultra Shifter exactly weighs...CAE specs a complete weight of 1.05kg (which I'd believe because you pick up the box and think someone stole your shifter because it feels like it's empty. Shifter shaft is 7075 aluminum and the base is an Aluminum/Magnesium alloy). I would guess probably between a 2-3lb total weight savings, the CAE Ultra shifter assembly weight seemed about the same as the aluminum shift lever retainer yoke.

My initial reaction is that you are a fool to have cut up the interior, installed something so hideous and then on top of it sticks out like an 18 wheeler gear shift with the throw of a TRD quick shifter. I have no doubt my Kart-Boy shifter and mounts can shift very very fast and looks like the throws are about comparable length to yours. Why did you choose this? Have you driven these cars with a short throw shifter? Is there something I am missing?

http://i.ytimg.com/vi/ni2UW_KVc0o/maxresdefault.jpg

#racecarbro #trackdaybro

For motorsports, it's preferable to have the shift knob as close to the steering wheel as possible. I've seen people put extension bars on their stock shifter, but this increases the throw length. A well-designed shifter like this makes the shifts still feel incredible while moving the knob high up where you would want it while racing.

It's not something I would do to my car, since it has never seen a track, but if it is used for its intended purpose, it is awesome.

It puts the knob closer to the wheel, is faster, more precise, lighter, and looks cool as shit.

Ok, so maybe that last one was subjective, but I too have a Kartboy short shifter currently installed, and I will probably be upgrading to this one.

Weighed all the removed parts and it comes out to right at 4.50lbs...so total weight removed in swapping to the CAE comes to around 2.2lbs, and that's with the relatively heavy foam/acoustic ring still being used around the base. The sensitivity of the scale used is 0.05lbs.

This shifter is nothing like kartboy/BPS etc...fulcrum points have been changed and added to get it bolt action precise. Not just a shortened shifter.

Yes, there is something HUGE you are missing...all the other "short shifters" still use the stock shift lever retainer yoke, they just replace the stick and other items with ones of differing geometry. While stock system is not bad, it makes for play and slop in the system with all those bushings front and rear. The CAE base is hard mounted to the transmission tunnel with an extremely tight fit of the selector pin to the shifter level, no squishy bushings anywhere in the system. The difference in shift feel between the two is INCOMPARABLE, no short shifter can match the CAE shifter in feel unless it ditches bushings and does something solid mount setup...

If you ever shifted a Hurst Competition + shifter then you will kind of understand what the CAE Ultra shifter is like, but the CAE is much better with ZERO play and a more positive feel both going into gear and going into neutral. I wanted a shifter that would improve the shifting feel to something really positive and meaningful like that of the Hurst Competition + shifter I had in my track Camaro...the CAE does this and more.

Two other things:

1) it is at a proper height for shifting, short shifters are all too low, from a biomechanical perspective. Once you try out a shifter like this you will understand why it's the perfect height...

2) Besides the shifting benefits, it makes for a better/more involved interior sound environment than a catback exhaust system - you get to hear exactly what the transmission is doing. Some gear whine pronounced in 1-3, transmission loading noise very detailed from exact throttle position changes, and when getting on it from 5krpm to redline it makes for an awesome raw sound from the engine that you cannot get from exhaust system or intake mods.

The CAE Ultra Shifter is something you get when you desire a shifting experience that is extremely positive in feedback with ZERO slop (which you can't get with the stock based system) and you want more detailed information from the drivetrain.

NOTE: In order to install the CAE Ultra shifter you REALLY need stiffer engine and transmission mounts installed. Stiffer engine and transmission mounts are a great idea anyways because it really helps out with the ride quality. They are even more influential in smoothing the ride out than the Grimmspeed strut tower bar is... the motor flopping around on the stock mounts really makes the ride rough over sharp bumps and dips - stiffer mounts actually make the impact you feel much softer.

I am baffled by one thing - how you call the CAE Ultra Shifter 'hideous'. That statement computes as much as calling the FR-S 'hideous':

http://abload.de/img/unbenannty3ypl.jpg

sexy af

I tried ordering straight from CAE, but they're being real German about it. I called Hard Motorsports a few hours ago and left a message. Still waiting on that return call.

Welp. Never got a call back, but just paid online. I really hope they can get it to me in like 10 days or so.

It will probably take 3 weeks or so...

By ordering now it should be built in time to make the next shipment they have nextweek to Hard Motorsports (CAE ships things early/midweek in batches). It stays in customs for a little bit then goes to Hard Motorsports. Then they get in the shipment and sort it to who it needs to go to and then ship it out...
So expect three weeks to receive it from the time you order.

Damn. On their website, CAE claims to have some already ready to go, if I remember correctly.

Probably units for BMW's since they are mainly a company for BMW's...highly doubt they have any 86 units in stock. These are the messages I received on their website after ordering August 29th:

https://vracer111.smugmug.com/Cars/S...O/HM-info1.jpg

https://vracer111.smugmug.com/Cars/S...O/HM-info2.jpg

I picked it up from Post Office on September 18th (after a first failed delivery attempt the day before...signature required).

Just for anyone who may wonder about it in the future, I ordered mine through Hard Motorsports on October 1st, and it arrived on October 19th.

I think I'm going to place my order tomorrow, see if I can pick up some engine mounts too.

Got my new tranny installed a few days ago, so next I'll be looking to change the oil in that and also install this bad boy. Here's a picture I took 19 days ago and completely forgot to post until just now.

I'm speechless how amazing that shifter looks and can only imagine how amazing it has to feel... Now with a agressive FinalDrive O man it would be on point

Ok, so I finally installed my shifter with the help of my friend, Daniel. Before we got started, we went to the store and bought a $5 C clamp to modify, which we did. In the store.

After that, we went home and installed the whole thing with 0 problems or difficulties of any sort. Literally the hardest part was disconnecting the driveshaft at the differential end, only because it's gotten a bit rusty. A few taps with the hammer and it broke free. We also lifted the rear of the car higher than the front, so not a drop of tranny oil ever came out. We never used the C clamp. The spacers went right on by hand, and so did the pin. I could've done the entire thing by myself months ago, but I was so worried about having the difficulties Vracer had, I waited until I had some help.

Daniel is the one who actually slid the infamous pin through, and he did while I wasn't even under the car. I was preparing the C clamp, and then he just started dying laughing underneath the car. Apparently it practically fell on. I'm so upset we didn't film it lol.

So... I'm guessing the microscopic variations between individual cars from the factories caused Vracer all that trouble, but had no effect on our experience. Having my car already gutted (which reduced our workload) I would put the difficulty of our experience on the same level as changing brake pads.

From the factory, I couldn't shift into reverse, but it only took about 1/2 of a turn of one of the set screws, and hitting reverse is now not a problem. So even tuning the thing is a breeze.

I've included some pictures of the most intimidating step, popping the pins out for the yoke. We took the driveshaft and exhaust off, so it wasn't too hard to access with a medium-sized flat head. Daniel's the one that did it, and he said he turned them about 90 degrees and then they came out without a fuss.

Good to see it was easy for you to get it on...the bushings were a major pain for me - everything else pretty easy. What is your initial impression of the shifter?

Well.
All I had time to do was drive to the end of my street. I got up to third gear. But... just doing that... I'd have to say WORTH IT.

Some installed photos. Now my handbrake looks MAXIMUM UGLY. Yay.

:coolpics: Really a neat setup!

Anyone with full interior install photos? I want to pick this up, with trying to keep OEM appearance of the counsel as much as possible.

I am curious to know if the shifter is "TOO QUICK" for the gearbox synchro ?

With such a short throw I assume you could shift faster than what the transmission was designed for and end up "grinding' during agressive gear switch ?

Love the look and weight saving ! :)

PS: anthony, time to remove chassis pieces that are there only for trim support like the beam in the middle of the roof. It is only glues to support the headliner, it is of no use to you :)

Sooo... a little issue just happened to my FR-S...seems the pin on the selector rod attaching to the shifter broke and not sure if the rod going into transmission is damaged either, seems wobbly where the second pin on the selector rod attaches to it... current in the process of trying to get everthing off the car...taking lunch break.

Noticed the shifter feel changed while heading out, felt really good to be honest! I was thinking maybe it finally wore in but also at the same time was going to check it out when I got back home to be sure it was nothing serious. Well it was in 4th gear when the shifter stopped working while I was on my way back home from some errands....that was a fun trip home.

Damn. Keep us updated.

Still trying to get the rod off the transmission (without dropping the transmission), but here's the shifter end of things:

https://vracer111.smugmug.com/Cars/S...402_164008.jpg

Pin will not come out...ball peen, sledge, heated the shaft...nothing. The pin is solidly wedged into the shifter...probably was that way from the install. If I can get it out work will need to be done to loosen up tolerances so everything works like it should. So here the shifter sits while I try to figure out the # for the stock part to order. Car dead in water until I can get a factory control rod. Actually I still haz a 1 speed FR-S, so not technically dead...but pretty useless as a daily driver for the time being...LOL

https://vracer111.smugmug.com/Cars/S...402_191118.jpg

Found the rod, it's ~$54...might as well also get new bushings for the transmission side of things while I'm at al too... may try making my own pin for the broken original part and weld it into place in the meanwhile...

http://scionparts.villagetoyota.com/...U00300893.html

Anyone having trouble with oversize driveshaft (Al/Carbon)?

I have Driftshaft Ship Aluminum driveshaft and I think the rod is too low and hits the shaft.
@Anthony I know I grind down the rod a while back, for kartboy shifter already, but do you think if you haven't done so, you will still have to do it with CAE and your carbon driveshaft?

Never mind, checked again and the rod isn't touching the shaft, it's just the rubber boot's resistance.

Hindsight is 20/20.




YES. Ran my Kartboy for over a year without issue after the grinding. Installed my CAE and the grinding was back again, although this time less severe. I kept being lazy and not grinding it further, as well as driving it occasionally either on 20 minute spirited drives for fun or DD-type drives to local car meets. Problem eventually solved itself and I actually forgot that it used to rub.

So... basically... the wear-ring I had on my driveshaft got sliiiightly worse, but is exactly worn away enough to be out of the way by a distance that would have to be calculated at the molecular level.

Shifter still awesome. Driveshaft still awesome. Whole car still awesome. no ragrets.