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Gold Plus Warranty Yes or No?
So I'm coming up on 3 years ownership next week and I'm mulling over buying the extended warranty or not. I'm leaning toward no but would like to hear your thoughts.
I drive the car less than 10K a year. So far I've had the (unsuccessful) cricket repair, both tail light replaced for condensation and the head unit replaced because of a boot loop with the map SD Card in. I don't plan to do any serious modding but I am thinking about a mild tune to get rid of the torque dip. I'd be going for time over mileage and would prob go for the $50 deductible. Even with shopping around I think I'm looking at $1000 at least. If anyone has gotten a good deal on a plan I'd appreciate knowing the name of the dealer and the cost. What does everybody think? TIA Tom |
This is always a hard call. The biggest problem with a lot of the extended warranties is their small print list of things that are not covered. Sometimes that list is more extensive than what is covered and can be sneaky in the wording (i.e. "car must be serviced by an approved vender only or this warranty shall be considered null and void"). If you check it out and it seems to cover at least all the major things it maybe worthwhile for peace of mind.
Now all that aside my personal opinion is I will never pay for an extended warranty. This is based purely on the fact that of the 10 new cars my wife and I have owned I have never once had to do a major repair once the warranty ran out. This thought process may come back to bite me some day but I figure that at this point I am at least $15,000 ahead by not buying warranties so if I have to do a major repair it is already paid for. |
My car has 7500 miles and already have two tires replaced for free by the gold plus warranty.
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However, if I can get a replacement....how?! |
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Yes both times got nails at side wall of my tires. Road hazard warranty included
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With the particular BRZ I purchased, it was well worth the money. So much bad luck...
Ymmv |
Read the entire contract and be sure you understand what is covered and what is not.
Then decide if it makes more sense to set aside $1100 ( or contract value) to "self insure". The only way to know your best optio is to read and understand the T&C. |
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There still is the chance that you will be an outlier and have something go horribly wrong, but that chance is typically pretty small statistically. This is why I always self insure after the factory warranty period. |
if you dont modifying the car, maybe worth to get it but if you do, i wouldnt get it
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I had that and cancel it within a week. I dont think its worth it, but to each its own.
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Thanks folks. I had one on my 2003 WRX and only had the auto-dimming mirror go bad to the tune of $200 so it was a bad move there. My only concern was that I have one of the first 3000 BRZs built for the US so I was on the fence. With the powertrain warranty going out to 5/60,000 I think I'm gonna self-insure for the rest of the car.
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I think they are a waste. I work at a GM dealer and any extended warrantyrarely gets used. To be fair GM cars/trucks leak a lot and those are usuallynot covered if it is leaking from a common leak point (I.e. known leaky oil pressuresender units or tranny cooler lines) Some are good for almost everything, butthose warranties are rare. |
I have it, want to cancel it but don't have the guts to cause the car loves to make different kind of noises on different days & gas. I always feel knock or some sort when i'm on bad gas...like exhaust pop & stuff. :bonk: One day i can feel the grunt pass 5k the other day I can feel it drag after 5k.
Probably it's all in my head, my past cars are all toyotas & hondas with very little feel. |
I am 100% against it...
Back in 2008, I bought a used 2001 Boxster S (65k miles got the car for $15k which I think/thought was a good deal) and bought an extended warranty (because I was afraid of Porsche stuff costing a lot)...no the infamous IMS Drive did not go out or anything...but... But, my taillight went out. So I make a claim... They approve this as a $110 fix. The mechanic explains that this will cost $160 (parts+labor) I have to pay a $100 deductible. So I paid $100 of the $160 dollar bill... Later one of the little motors on the Convertible Top goes out... So I make a claim... They say its a $230ish claim... Mechanic points out the part is $350 plus installation... So I pay $100 deductible...they pay $230 and I am still left with a $20 gap... I talk to mechanic about my coverage...he then finds out other motor is "broken" and get them to replace that under same workorder...uses that additional money to the claim to $460 and that covers me all together (because that motor was weak/going out) and labor he kept the same (so same 100$ deductible) I then had him go over my coverage, specifically the IMS Failure (since this is a car forum, I assume you guys know what I am talking about). The policy I had DID NOT COVER THAT AT ALL. I was expected to go aftermarket get that retro-fitted out of pocket (which is ok...) BUT if I did that, I was considered I was "modding the drive-train, therefore everything drive-train related would not be covered due to me voiding the warranty. TLDR version: They under compensate...deductible is usually on the high end for cheaper claims... And they look for any reason to deny your claim. I do not recommend. The BRZ/FR-S are not exotic cars...they handle great and look great, but they are Subaru/Toyotas. They are built to last...and do not cost that much to get fixed. Also if something does break...look for a 3rd party to put the onus on you to prove it wasn't from abuse (and we all bought these cars for spirited driving...) |
I take the extended warranty exclusive for the DI failure.
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