First Batch V.S. Second Batch of 2013's
 

We all know when there is a new car there are faults in the first couple of cars sold. My question to anyone who knows, what month/year should you not have to worry about your 2013 hitting the dust anytime soon?

EX: This car is a "2013" but was most likely released and manufactured in late 2012 correct?

If there was one manufactured in said 6/2013 would it be a "lemon" per se?

I bought mine in May of 2012. First batch off the boat and have had the taillights replaced under warranty. That's it. Nothing else. Notta. No problems. No breakdowns. Nothing to report.

43k miles later with 4k of that FI and still waiting for the thing to break.

Not worried with the FI? I'm on the fence, I have 24k miles on my 2013 and don't want to mod it due to the fact that it's a first year car of a whole new style of car and I don't want to loose my warranty.

Not concerned. I have 3 other vehicles that I can drive if something happens. I can assume the risk of the FI.

Nothing significant was fixed in the car since it was released other than some ECU re flash which you should have gotten regardless of model year via a TSB.

This is one of those rare cases where the early models are just as good (or as bad I suppose) as the later ones.

12/12 40k miles, only had a coilpack fail so far.

Don't worry about it, if you skipped the CEL position sensor thing in the sticky then you're good, only other problem is the DI seals failing which seems to have been very isolated at only a couple hundred cars maximum out of at least 70k running around North America.

I wouldn't worry about any car, but if I had to pick a date it'd be 3/13 as that was 100% after the ECU update was for sure implemented at the factory for the DI issue.

Have patience, if you're truly concerned about warranty take a break from the internet getting you all hyped up and drive it as-is until you cross 60k miles, by the time that happens 90% of the bugs will be worked out from the guys who drive harder and have deeper pockets.

What are you worried about losing?

If you want to mod your engine internals (I count forced induction as an internal mod as it greatly changes how the compression cycle works vs a normal tune), you need to do it based on an assumption you are going to write off the cost of the engine if something bad happens.

If you are worried about the bodywork, there isn't anything that can't be addressed by a TSB. If you want to continue having warranty, you can always buy extended warranty...

As for the 2013s, the only "major" issue was the ECU reflash to compensate for the specific throttle issue that would cause the DI seals to go bad. The bad idle TSB fix was addressed in the first 6 months of MY2013 production cars.

-alex

My car was built in March of 2013 and I haven't had any trouble with it.


humfrz

March 2013 build with no problems, even with numerous track days.

March 2012 build. I had my differential and tails replaced under warranty. All else good at 43k miles.

I have a later batch of 2013. Purchased in april of 13, and was only on the lot a few days when I bought it.

I have had NO tail light issue, plenty of crickets and just had a defective clutch fixed - throwout bearing went bad after 30k miles but had that replaced earlier this month. The reason I know it was defective not me ruining it? Numerous reasons of not being a kid and this is my 6th car owned with a manual transmission, etc...

But the main reason is that the replacement one feels miles different, better and has a proper engagement point instead of the too high one it used to have (that I just got used to so I never worried about it). Plus, it always took a tiny bit more effort to slide into 1st gear than I thought it should, and the new setup is butter smooth.

Other than that, it's been great. Love the car.

Damn, you guys drive a lot. First batch 2013 no warranty replacement on anything but I still have less than 10k on her.

May 2013 build. No issues at all (not even crickets) besides taillight condensation that I just replaced with aftermarket instead of pursuing a warranty claim. All other problems are likely self inflicted.

squeaky windows when wet is a common one.

1/13 FRS

1. Taillight seal

2. Leaking valve chain cover gasket

3. Crickets (pump replaced 2x)

4. ECU reflash (addressed the issue with OFT before TSB was released)

5. more camber on the RHS by about .5* front and rear

6. Squeaky windows (didn't realise that was a warrany-able issue)

Picked up in June 2012.

1) Rear deck popping noise.

2) Famous fuel pump cricket.

3) Deformed window seal.

4) Squeaking noise inside of the bell housing when depressing clutch pedal.

5) Tail light condensation.

Same here.

Bought mine in May 2012 also. Replaced taillights once.. been tracking since 40 miles on the odometer. I was supercharged for 11k miles and about to go Turbo. I have 43k miles on my car.

12/12 build date, I bought it 11/1/14 with 14,5 on the clock. Since I got it I've had the window seals replaced, the tail lights replaced and the fuel pump replaced too. I think they reflashed it when the did the pump. Now I don't have the wind noise from the twisted moldings but they squeak. The tails are holding their own and NO MORE CRICKETS :clap:I didn't ask for the pump to be done, I had brought it in for the squeaky, crunchy clutch pedal but they "couldn't replicate the issue" so they found the open tsb and did the work for me :iono:

Mine was 6 or 7/13 build date. Picked it off the lot with 17 miles... on Dec 1 2013.

7k - Rear Deck Started Popping - Fixed by myself with WD40
11.5k - Rocker Arm, engine rebuilt
12k - 10 Series knob deformed -- Switched to stock knob and trying to get warranty replacement (Stop Sale Currently)
13k - Driver Seatbelt Squeak - Fixed by myself with WD40

Those were the only problems with the car...the major one being 11.5k.

Car currently sits at 18k miles.

Manufactured Date 03/2012 VIN xxx0272, picked up 05/12. 66,000+ miles.

I have one taillight with intermittent condensation (driver's side) that started at around 59,000 miles. Pretty sure I just need to pull off the gasket and clean it, just haven't taken the time yet. It typically dries out in a couple of days.

Also had the fuel pump replaced, but not because of crickets. I did it at 59,000 miles before the warranty ran out just to zero out the fuel pump.

Other than that, no issues. I would buy another low serial number one tomorrow if I had the need to replace this one.

2013 FRS, 49k Miles. OFT Tune at 36k Miles.
Build Date: 2/2013 - ECU ZA1JA01C

Warranty Work
1) Driver Side Window Seal - The seal at the top of the door started to catch and drag on the window, which leaked air. This took a while to get replaced; I think the dealer forgot to order the small side window seal so there was a delay.
2) Driver Side Vanity Mirror - Super random! The hinge corner cracked one day; quick replacement by the dealer.
3) Steering Wheel peeling - This took forever to get fixed, I think a month? Dealer wanted regional / corporate approval or some crap, I guess debating if it was wear and tear or defective. They ended up replacing the wheel with a revised part with a material change, less pleathory more hard plasticky. I don't like it, and missed my Miata's Nardi, so I bought a TRD wheel.

Typical Issues
I have the crickets.
My window seals squeak when wet, and has this funny streak pattern on the driver's side.
The driver's side window switch rattles when the bass hits.
I have replaced one windshield. I have a Safelite one now, seems okay.

Atypical Stuff
Tail lights have been fine. Coil packs are fine, and no DI seal issues so far. I think I will have them checked out as a precaution before my warranty ends. Cheap insurance versus a new engine.

Looking back, I guess whoever assembled the driver's side of my car was hung over.

First batch 32k miles rod knock. Dealer/toyota said "we want 10K$ this is not a factory defect due to lack of lubricant " no CEL no codes happen to others also on here..

I have a late 2013 production (May 2013), and I've had only minor issues.

-Reflashed ECU for idling issues
-Rear view mirror base stripped and rattled (replaced and no rattles)
-Crickets (replaced once in August 2014--better but not gone)

No tail light condensation.

How often had you changed the oil?

Mine is a 4/13 production. 13k miles. I have a strange suspension pop/clunk intermittently when pulling into my driveway. I have crickets. I have a new dashboard from the center lifting up over the vents, and the new one is doing the same. I have tail light condensation very intermittently. I've only noticed it 1-2 times. Seems like only when I wash the car. There are plenty of rattles. I have had the shifter replaced because of rattles. I had the rear view mirror assembly replaced because of a rattle. Both doors rattle pretty bad, so I keep the radio on. The driver's window squeaks really bad when wet and rolling up/down.

Overall, the car has shown to have a pretty decent size list of problems. Honestly though, it makes me like the car more for the imperfections. When the car was new off the lot it really felt like it had little personality... no real soul. But now as these little quirks reveal themselves the car seems to take on a personality. Strange how my brain works, I know.

Check your right-side sway bar bushing. Mine's baked from the overpipe and in need of replacement.

I'm surprised more people haven't reported the issue. :iono:

Same here.

4/13 build date, 14k miles. Rattles everywhere. Maybe someone had a bad month at the factory? :bellyroll:

Rattles
rear seat latch
trunk
passenger side seatbelt panel
driver seatbelt squeak
front dash near windshield
some control unit under dash
steering wheel or windshield stalk
navi rattling against the dash panel

I tried to fix most of these but this still come back occasionally depending on the temperature or road conditions.

Other than rattles, I also have crickets like everyone else, rubber dash on center a/c vent coming up and windows squeak when wet. I'm surprised that I don't have taillight condensation after parking outside through 2 New England winters.:iono:

I fixed the window squeak myself. It's a track adjustment that involves some considerable tweak, test, repeat...

I really would like to write a DIY but I'm afraid too many people would adjust themselves off the deep end.

Yes haha. Same thing on my AE86! It's something Toyota kept the same.

BTW, door rattle and clunkiness, just tighten the doors. Have one person raise it a bit. My drivers side rattled so bad! Especially at 40mph+ so I had a buddy help me by holding door and we tightened it to the chassis. Bye bye rattle.

Only annoying rattles I have now are the speakers. Well...there's more but those are the only noticeable ones that annoy me.

How do we check the production number for our cars? Mine is 2013. Bought it on December 2013. I don't have any rattles in my car. The only annoying thing is the driver side window squeak when it's wet. But I'm in LA, so it only does it when I wash my car. lol

The sticker on the door jam with have a mfg. date for U.S. models (some Euro countries don't seem to require that).

This applies to most cars built for the past several decades, even cars built in the 60's have mfg. dates on the VIN plates, I know BMW's had them inside the hood.

Same here. I've had no serious issues and am very pleased.

Production number is the last 5 digits of the VIN.

First batch off the boat.
I got crickets and speaker grill rattle when i play anything by Biggie.
Errything else is covered by an extended 120k warranty. KEK