Wnt3d's 86 - Turbo E85 Daily/Track Build
 

As most people on here, I've been quietly collecting parts over the years and have finally almost obtained most things that I've wanted. Originally intended to keep the 86 fairly standard since I've had a few modified cars before and did not want another low, loud and police attention car again. But it didn't last long until the mod bug hit and small upgrades started to arrive. The standard 197hp did not satisfy my need for power so the search for forced induction was on.

Fast forward 18 months and almost every corner of the car has been upgraded in someway or somehow. Turbo kit will be installed in the coming week and I'll update as I go.


How it looked on its last outting (before turbo prep teardown) - 12-7-15

http://i968.photobucket.com/albums/a...23187159_o.jpg

http://i968.photobucket.com/albums/a...d/DSC08131.jpg

and how it sits now.....

http://i968.photobucket.com/albums/a...all-1153-2.jpg


| ENGINE |
Custom Equal Length SS Manifold with 3” dump
Garrett GTX2867R 0.63 Turbo
Turbosmart Comp Gate40
Turbosmart BOV Dual Port 38mm
Hypertune Aluminium Intercooler
FullBlownMotorsports Cast Sump
FullBlownMotorsports Aluminium Radiator + Shroud + SPAL Fans
OEM Subaru ‘Laminova’ Type Oil Cooler Kit
SpeedFlow Fittings & Hoses
SME 3” Over Pipe
SME 3” Front Pipe
Tomei 80R Titanium 3” Exhaust
TRD Oil Temperature/Pressure Sandwich Plate
TRD Water Temperature Adapter
Raceseng Cam Plate

| TRANSMISSION |
HKS Light Action Clutch with Lightened Flywheel
STI Group-N Engine Mounts
STI Group-N Transmission Mount

| SUSPENSION & BRAKES |
MCA Red Coilovers
Whiteline Adjustable Front Swaybar + endlinks
Whiteline Adjustable Rear Swaybar + endlinks
Whiteline Rear Swaybar Mount Brace
Whiteline Front Roll Center & Bump Correction Kit
Whiteline Diff Mount Cradle Insert Bushings
Whiteline Subframe Mount Insert Bushings
SPL Adjustable Toe Arms
SPL Adjustable Traction Arms
Carbing Titanium Front Strut Bar
Carbing Titanium Front Tower Braces
Carbing Aluminium Rear Strut Bar
Motul RBF660 Brake Fluid
Bendix Ultimate Brake Pads Front *** BBK to come

| ECU & FUEL SYSTEM |
Ecutek RaceRom ECU
Injector Dynamics 1300cc Stainless Steel Injectors
FullBlownMotorsports 485 E85 Fuel Pump Kit
Delicious Tuning BT Flex Fuel Kit

| INTERIOR |
Defi Advance BF Boost Gauge
Defi Advance BF Oil Pressure Gauge
Defi Advance BF Oil Temperature Gauge
Defi Advance BF Water Temperature Gauge
Defi Advance BF Fuel Pressure Gauge–
Defi Advance Control Box
Blitz Dash Panel Gauge Holder
Blockhead Dual 60mm Gauge Holder
R Magic Gear Knob
Cusco Drift Button

| WHEELS & TIRES |
Advan TC3 18x9.5 +40 ‘Square Setup’
Nitto Invo 265/35/18 Street
Advan AD08R 265/35/18 Track

| EXTERIOR |
TOM’s Red Tail Lights
TRD Rear Window Air Stabilizer
Beatsonic Version 2 Shark Fin
HIC Window Visors
HIC Roof Wing




Stay Tuned!
:thanks:

Since the stock clutch is known to slip with forced induction I decided to upgrade it while doing a gearbox oil change which was due soon anyway. I didn't want to choose anything too heavy duty like a twin plate or something that's either on/off, and some what similar to the stock pedal feel. The HKS LA (Light Action) clutch kit comes with a lightened flywheel, and is rated at 400Nm (41Kgm / 295lbft) which approximates to 295kw (400ps) while supposedly retaining stockish pedal weight.

http://i968.photobucket.com/albums/a...all-183338.jpg

http://i968.photobucket.com/albums/a...all-183515.jpg

http://i968.photobucket.com/albums/a...all-183441.jpg

http://i968.photobucket.com/albums/a...all-183544.jpg

http://i968.photobucket.com/albums/a...stall-7574.jpg


Stock clutch removed and all cleaned up
http://i968.photobucket.com/albums/a...all-230313.jpg

Clutch installed along with Raceseng Cam Plate
http://i968.photobucket.com/albums/a...stall-7695.jpg

Also forgot to add that whilst the car was up on stands with the gearbox out I ended up installing STI engine & transmission mounts, whiteline suspension goodies, subaru oem oil cooler and finished off running the wires and sensors for the defi gauges.

STI Engine and Transmission Mounts
http://i968.photobucket.com/albums/a...stall-7684.jpg

STI Engine Mounts
http://i968.photobucket.com/albums/a...stall-7685.jpg
http://i968.photobucket.com/albums/a...stall-7686.jpg
http://i968.photobucket.com/albums/a...stall-7687.jpg

STI Transmission Mount
http://i968.photobucket.com/albums/a...stall-7689.jpg
STI mount on the left VS stock mounts on the right
http://i968.photobucket.com/albums/a...stall-7691.jpg
Whiteline Front Swaybar & endlinks
http://i968.photobucket.com/albums/a...stall-7700.jpg
Swaybar thickness closeup
http://i968.photobucket.com/albums/a...stall-7703.jpg
Endlink thickness close up
http://i968.photobucket.com/albums/a...stall-7702.jpg

http://i968.photobucket.com/albums/a...stall-7654.jpg

Whiteline KCA435 - front roll centre/bump steer correction kit
http://i968.photobucket.com/albums/a...stall-7657.jpg
http://i968.photobucket.com/albums/a...stall-7658.jpg

Whiteline KDT925 - rear differential cradle & outrigger insert bushings
http://i968.photobucket.com/albums/a...stall-7663.jpg

Whiteline KDT922 - rear crossmember insert bushings
http://i968.photobucket.com/albums/a...stall-7660.jpg

OEM Subaru 'Laminova' Type oil cooler kit
http://i968.photobucket.com/albums/a...stall-7641.jpg

I ended up routing the wires along side the main engine harness under the intake plenum and through the firewall via the main rubber grommet. A TRD water temp adapter and oil sandwhich plate were used to mount the water temp and oil temp sensors. The oil pressure sensor is connected directly to the top oil gallery port next to the throttle body. The fuel pressure sensor is connected via a flare tee fitting with 1/8 NPT thread, clamped between one of the fuel rail supply hoses.

Routing the wires from drivers side grommet to advance control box behind the glove box
http://i968.photobucket.com/albums/a...all-001455.jpg

Gauge wiring and sensors
http://i968.photobucket.com/albums/a...stall-7589.jpg

TRD Water temp adapter + Oil sandwhich plate
http://i968.photobucket.com/albums/a...stall-7620.jpg
Oil sandwhich plate - front
http://i968.photobucket.com/albums/a...stall-7622.jpg
Oil sandwhich plate - back
http://i968.photobucket.com/albums/a...stall-7623.jpg
Water temp adapter
http://i968.photobucket.com/albums/a...stall-7626.jpg
Speedflow -4 Flare Tee with 1/8 NPT branch : fuel pressure sensor adapter
http://i968.photobucket.com/albums/a...all-215722.jpg

Diagram with the wires coloured in to illustrate my routing method
http://i968.photobucket.com/albums/a...stall-0009.jpg
Wires enter through grommet within a 'self closing braided wire wrap'. - It made it alot easier to run 1 bundle of wires behind the dash instead of 5 individual ones.
http://i968.photobucket.com/albums/a...all-213654.jpg


And the end result, exactly how I wanted it. I know to alot of people its not their cup of tea to have so many gauges when you can have many alternate methods to display the same parameters with less difficulty, but I've always loved the old jdm race car feel with gauges everywhere!

http://i968.photobucket.com/albums/a...all-145813.jpg

Wow certainly took your time and did things right. Lot of work and money into the ride, love the look and the quality of work done. Big two thumbs up.

Thanks buddy. It has been a long road hoarding parts but its finally time to enjoy it all!

I've been following your JDL 4854 install/review thread for good photos and install shots before I started mine, was of great help!

Question - where did you plum the crank case ventilation hose that usually goes into the intake if (a) your not running a catch can setup, yet (b) my alloy intake piping doesn't have a a fitting point for the hose?

I have both pcv and crankcase vent to fullblown catch can but my intake pipe had a nipple to connect the crankcase vent similar to oem setup. I could have gone both ways. What I've seen people do is attach a breather filter to the crankcase line and leave it, somewhat the same as running it back to a catch can and venting. Glad I was able to help in any way. Right now I upgraded to a Garrett and had to run the coolant lines for
It, pretty messy experience lol.

Heres my line route, one from pcv to can and the crankcase line also to can.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c2...CA41DF71AC.jpg

Very awesome build.

Keep us posted on the track experience and how the cooler handles it. I've been dying to jump on the track but afraid, still need my oil cooler though.

:thumbup:
Thats one sexy lookin car you got there! Definately subscribing to this thread. Keep us posted on the turbo set up and any more tack days you'll end up doing.

Keep up the good work!
:respekt:

very clean work. keep it up
and more pictures:)

Quality build right here.

That Nur spec looks so good without the wing.

I have to ask, after replacing the clutch did the marbles-rolling-down-a-pipe sound when the engine is labouring become reduced/disappear?

After second thought's I'm going to get a barb fitting attached to my intake to plum it properly and will most probably go with a radium dual can setup. I was worried if by running a filter at the end of the hose and tucking it, if it may cause any flammable blow by to spray onto the hot engine and risk catching alight :iono:

I'm not quite sure what you mean? where's 'this sound' coming from you speak of?


- thank you everyone for the kind feedback, just waiting for some titanium heat wrap to arrive and I'll wrap up the manifold and have more pretty pictures of the install as I go. In the mean time I still need to plug in the injectors, fuel pump and ebc.

Hm, in low gears under low rpm and laboring the engine, eg going uphill at low rpm/speed, there's a rattly "bearings in a tin can" sound that many attribute to being from the stock clutch, just wondered if replacing with a different clutch made a difference.

Here's a recording of the sound http://vocaroo.com/i/s1vDPdg8iBax

On topic though, loving your build so far, super clean, very well done! Will you be doing the spring removal mod for the clutch pedal too?

are you having that noise with a stock clutch? ... still not sure what that sound could be as I dont nor never did have that issue? some lightened flywheels do chatter do? so if you've upgraded yours then that could be the issue.

I find no reason to do the spring removal mod? whats the purpose of this mod as I've never looked into it. It drives and changes fine already. The only thing I may add to improve transmission feel is maybe a STI short shifter and a perrin shifter mount.

Yep I always think of that because it really smells, if you have your AC on and not recirculating you'll be sucking in all sorts of weird fuel mixed with oil fumes lol. I was going to suggest what you just mentioned, that'll be the best route.

I have this but with an aftermarket clutch and flywheel.. it only happens when the engine is loaded, meaning AC is on(causing the fan's to go full power) and at idle only. This sound is due to heavy load at really low rpms, heard sometimes when near stalling the car. Search for flywheel chatter.. its usually pretty audible with the low idle rpm and a lightened flywheel but never heard of it with a stock clutch and or flywheel.

How is everyone else running there vacuum lines to supply the gate, bov, boost gauge, ebc ?

I've currently got a 4 port vacum block with 3 lines to feed the boost gauge, gate, and bov originally, but now that I've decided to run a ebc I'm unsure on which way I should connect the solenoid and where to tap into for the ebc control unit.

My turbo does not have a nipple of the compressor housing so I can't get a pressure signal from that desired location, does anyone have any complaints by supplying all boost and pressure inputs from the manifold pressure?

This is how I've configured my vacuum lines and turbo/gate/solenoid setup. can someone tell me if this is correct, and how I should feed port 1 (marone) of the solenoid and the ebc unit (yellow) ** don't mind the kiddy illustration :bonk:

http://i968.photobucket.com/albums/a...2015.30.09.jpg

http://i968.photobucket.com/albums/a...3d/EWG_EBC.jpg

Used a quick tap I got from ATP turbo, im sure it could be had from other sources.. works fantastic. I wasn't too sure about taking my turbo and drilling it lol im not too comfy with that.


http://www.atpturbo.com/root/release...cktap3_450.jpg


Mounted right on the turbo comp outlet coupler.
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c2...23C292E2_1.jpg

I didn't have a nipple on my compressor housing either, so I used a vacuum manifold for mine with no issues for 15,000 miles.

http://brz.ridedomain.com/vacuum_manifold.jpg

So my outlets were:

Boost gauge (inside)
Boost controller (inside)
BOV
Boost solenoid
Wastegate

I then zip tied the output of the boost solenoid and the line for the wastegate together and ran them over to the wastegate where each hooked up.

http://brz.ridedomain.com/oil_cooler.jpg

thanks @King Tut for assuring that its safe to run it like that, I knew it would work but wasn't sure if it was the ideal way to do it. If a run a hose from the last port on the vacuum block to the port 1 of solenoid, which hose should I tee for the ebc pressure hose (yellow) and would tee'ing into the boost gauge (orange hose) be the safest bet?

Let me be clear that this isn't the best way to do it. It is best to give the wastegate and boost solenoid a boost reference from as close to the exit of the turbo as possible so that it reacts the quickest, but the vacuum manifold method will work. The best bet is to get a vacuum manifold where you don't have to do any tees at all. I would make the two wastegate lines the most important and if you have to tee then use a tee for the BOV and boost gauge.

Would it be argumentative to say that getting the boost reference after the intercooler but before the throttle body would be better? as the hot air coming from the turbo would read higher pressure then once its cools and enters the TB?

I've order one of those soft wall ATP turbo vacuum fittings and will try mount it along the intercooler piping after the intercooler before the TB.

Thanks guru @King Tut for your help once again :bow:

Is it better, yeah it is better, but you are still seeing a PSI loss across the piping and the intercooler but it is better than a reference from the intake manifold post throttle body. Why aren't you just putting it in the coupler coming off the turbo?

Progress has been slow because of the cold weather but I've managed to complete the turbosmart ebc and injector install. I also changed the plastic barb fittings on the boost solenoid to black AN fittings to give it a neater look. Something that does bother me and is a bit of a concern is that I should of changed the silicone vacuum lines to braided items to make sure nothing ever melts or leaks. This will be on the plans for the future

Turbosmart Eboost Street Electronic Boost Controller
http://i968.photobucket.com/albums/a...d/IMG_7762.jpg
http://i968.photobucket.com/albums/a...stall-7802.jpg

Injector Dynamics 1300cc Injectors - stainless steel internals make it compatible with all known fuels
http://i968.photobucket.com/albums/a...d/IMG_7631.jpg
http://i968.photobucket.com/albums/a...d/IMG_7633.jpg
http://i968.photobucket.com/albums/a...d/IMG_7766.jpg
http://i968.photobucket.com/albums/a...stall-7770.jpg
http://i968.photobucket.com/albums/a...stall-7780.jpg

New SME 3" catted front pipe and overpipe
http://i968.photobucket.com/albums/a...stall-7843.jpg

Beautiful work, wish we had more 3" options around here.

I would of thought you guys from the US have the most options on going 3" as its still local and easy to post it. Whereas I'm from Australia with limited parts options already, shipping a 3" system from JDL or Nameless was too pricey and not feasible :cry:

Happy with the SME units though (Sydney Motorsport Engineering) nice and clean with good welds :thumbup: just need to weld a Vband fitting for the dump / overpipe connection and its all ready to be tuned

So over the past week I've managed to wrap the manifold, downpipe, overpipe and frontpipe with DEI titanium wrap along with protecting other elements with gold heat reflective tape. Some trimming was required for one of the intercooler pipes so it could clear the bottom of the headlight which wasn't a big issue, and I've finished bolting the rest of the turbo kit and reassembled the lights and bumper back on. Here's some pretty progress pics along the way

http://i968.photobucket.com/albums/a...stall-7742.jpg
http://i968.photobucket.com/albums/a...stall-7795.jpg
http://i968.photobucket.com/albums/a...stall-7832.jpghttp://i968.photobucket.com/albums/a...stall-7830.jpg
http://i968.photobucket.com/albums/a...stall-7831.jpg

turbo kit install finally complete!
http://i968.photobucket.com/albums/a...stall-7847.jpg

I'm pretty happy with the end result being this be the first time I've ever attempted anything like this myself. It has been a great experience and valuable learning curve with many lessons learned along the way, and is totally more rewarding then letting a workshop do all the work/fun.

Fooled me, that looks golden.. figuratively speaking and not lol. That looks amazing.. wish you were local so I could pay you to do all my car's work...:thumbsup:

yay!
http://i1.ytimg.com/vi/pMg6hES_hyQ/maxresdefault.jpg
can't wait for some awesome vids of your turbo kit.

and she's finally off to the tuners, can't wait to to see what it pulls and to be able to drive it with boost now. Anxious would be a massive understatement :lol:

http://i968.photobucket.com/albums/a...all-155518.jpg

Keep us posted, very interested im sure what ever comes out would be the best achievable results for the setup. Great work and good looking car, good to see the whole car lol.

it's been 4weeks since my last update since tune day, so here are the results. On its initial tune it made 241hp on 7psi wastegate pressure. Tuner was very conservative (ran into some fueling issues earlier on) with this tune as we wanted to retune with ebc and e85 in the near future.

It's crazy how much difference a few pounds of boost makes

http://i578.photobucket.com/albums/s...pshienoykl.jpg

http://i578.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps2cj8zzmk.jpg


and within 2 days of completing the turbo install and tune, I was out testing it on a small local track day. Everything handled well, no leaks, no over heating, nothing broken, bar one issue with losing fuel pressure once when fuel level was below half tank. It was time to call it a night after that incident so am looking for different options to try and fix the fuel starvation problem these cars get.

How is everyone running their fuel pump systems?
I'm currently using a FBM 485 kit with no FPR

http://i578.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps0bdl12t1.jpg

http://i578.photobucket.com/albums/s...psk3uvjr6g.jpg

So I took it back to the tuners to complete the ; race rom features, flex fuel tuning and to control boost via the EBC.

with Hi-boost (12psi & e51) it made 334.4hp and low-boost (8psi & 98ron) it made 260hp. Overall pretty happy with the tune and output, on hi-boost it's definitely a handfull to try and control but love every minute of it! The dyno also reads ~20hp lower then other dyno's used from my area so very happy that I've achieved my ~350hp goal I set out on.

For now she's done, time to enjoy it and maybe fine tune it again to try and smoothen that hp and boost curve. Looking at adding some functional aero, oil cooler ducting, brake ducts, rear diffuser / undertray which I'll attempt to fab up myself when time permits.

http://i578.photobucket.com/albums/s...psxhomxkia.jpg

Nice build! Definitely going to subscribe!

booty pics at present
http://i968.photobucket.com/albums/a...14716805_n.jpg

Looking to add some more cosmetics to spruce up the rear end and have been thinking about a km4sh boot lip or something similar. Also undecided between a cleib carbon fibre rear diffuser or fab up my own aluminium sheet metal diffuser (similar to driveway labs / velox etc).

any other recommendations on what boot lip? or maybe a complete carbon boot?

nice snap from Sunday's meet at 'Toyota's In The Park'
http://i968.photobucket.com/albums/a...78054133_n.jpg

That Carbing Titanium!