Turbo Rough Idle & Stall
 

So i just finished my fbm turbo kit
550CC injector and 270LPH fuel pump

i got it started today and it idles good for a moment then it starts
idling rough then stalls. usually happens when I'm accelerating the car.

i checked my injectors to make sure its all secured and plugged in.
i don't hear any vacuum leaks

i removed my EBCS and have my BOV and Wastegate connected to vacuum.
and problem still there.

what do you guys think could be the problem
I'm running the delcioustuning flash and go tune at the moment.

http://datazap.me/u/brztoni/log-1436...-9-12-13-14-28

heres a datalog i pulled, which was sent to delicious as well.

If your car isn't running correctly, and you've verified that your car is mechanically sound, then you need a revised tune.

What PSI spring do you have in your BOV? you can rule out if the BOV is open at idle by just unplugging it (don't drive it), if the idle issue goes away then the BOV is not 100% closed at idle. Also a vacuum leak can cause this issue too. Make sure you go over all your vacuum lines with soapy water or check how much vacuum your car is pulling at idle to verify nothing is leaking.

i should have 7psi on the BOV i believe provided by Fullblown

I know delicious recommends a 12psi BOV spring.

If you can, unplug the BOV, cap the line so it isn't a vacuum leak, then start the car up. Don't drive it, but let it idle and see if the idle issue goes away.

maybe i have it mixxed up in my head i think its 7psi for the wastegate and 12psi on BOV LOL..

but ill cap out the BOV when i get home and see how it starts and idle

That sounds more familiar to me regarding DT recommendations. Have you contacted Bill or Zach to help track the issue? @DeliciousTuning

i have contact @DeliciousTuning and they made sure i secured the DI housing ( heavy black housing over DI ) that its making ground to the engine and i removed it and secured it twice and still
having issues.

i gotta check the vacuum lines for leaks and BOV and cross fingers.

Check vac pressure at idle. Do you have the correct MAF or MAP based on your tune? Also, don't mess with your wastegate signal - you don't want to overboost later if you forget to put it back, it shouldn't have anything to do with idle.

dumb question how do i check vac pressure at idle.

You can use ECUtek, open your map up in the datalogger and check the current vacuum pressure, forgot what the parameter is called at the moment lol.

Or if you have a boost gauge it should be pulling vacuum and displaying it at idle.

ill check it out later when i get home.

i really appreciate you trying to help me out..

No problem man. Thats what we are all here for.

1. Your manifold pressure is super high for being idle... Its almost atmospheric pressure when it should be something like 0.3-0.45 bar at idle. You are over twice that... Turn the car off, then on (engine at 0RPM) and verify your manifold pressure is around 1 bar, it should nearly match your atmospheric pressure (which is listed in kpa so kpa/100 = bar). If not you have the incorrect scaling on your map sensor.

2. Talk to your tuner about the health of your car, not a bunch of idiots on a forum that are all guessing.

You have replaced your MAF housing, your injectors, your pump, and your manifold pressure sensor, and o2 sensor housing. You know... the majority of the equipment used to supply fuel to your vehicle.These all need to be carefully calibrated correctly and asking a bunch of random people on the internet is just second guessing your tuner and beating around the bush. You should be asking him/her what to adjust and verifying your components are correct. If you came here because your tuner is no longer helping you then you need another tuner. However I highly doubt that is the reason you are posting this thread.

You obviously have an issue considering your manifold pressure is well beyond 2x normal at idle, your stock o2 is maxing out on lean (as in it doesn't read fuel or is really running ungodly lean), your injector pulse width is very high at idle... none of this makes very much sense if the correct calibrations were entered into the tune.

Man, i'm not that stupid :lol:

I actually looked right over that datalog. You are way more qualified than I am, I was merely guessing just based off what issues he described.

I hope you weren't thinking I was implying your stupid lol. That want the purpose of my post! I just hate when people skip communicating with their tuber and think there is a generic cause for their problem when in fact they are retrofitting the majority of the operation of the engine and ecu to work in a certain way. :/

If I was the tuner and I saw this post I would just *facepalm*. There is more I saw in the logs but that really just needs to be talked about with the tuner. Such as how the car doesn't get into the init faze for ltft... Which can be caused by a number of issues.

i have notified @DeliciousTuning regarding my concern awaiting for a reply. just trying to self diagnose my vehicle to see if im missing anything..

verify your manifold pressure at 0rpm. Then talk to your tuner. The logs will and do tell what is wrong. And bill isn't stupid. :) he might be busy at times but i am sure he will get you sorted out.

LJ just sent me a base map so i can test out to verify its the tune. he does say my log is running lean. so ill find out once i get home to check the car.

we need more gas captain! (at idle and slight throttle)

I'm so happy for you BRZtoni. I personally can't wait for my kit and exhaust from FBM! My clutch just came in today. So I get to stare at my clutch and think of my turbo kit :(

Gee thanks Nels :( :cry:

Don't worry I still love each and every one of us retards. <3 =D

UPDATE: 7/15/2015

LJ sent me a base tune
my car started took a couple cranks ( is this normal) ( possibly a tune issue?)
then car idles proper my A/F ratio looked good was 12-13 i think..

i took the car on a drive and it felt smooth and idled right at 900rpm.
i drove it for 20 minutes and it felt fantastic boost and etc worked great!

i drove the car to fuzionteknique to talk to alex because i been bothering him so much about my issues and showed him how its driving and etc.. my car idled at FT for 5 minutes and it died. i had a hard time starting my car. i removed my fuel pump on the spot to make sure i did everything correct and good. we let car sit for a couple minutes and it started after cranking multiple times.


what do you guys think? obviously I'm just writing all of this to vent and maybe self diagnose and because Full-blown and delicious is closed by now... now that i tested LJ's base tune from Full-blown i feel like sometimes is wrong with the tune i received from delicious tuning . i will contact both LJ and Bill tomorrow about my concerns and pick their brains and see what they can do..


NOTE: after driving the car stock and UEL+ stage 2 tune from delicious and now
turbo..

this car feels so much different. a lot quieter at idle and start up then N/A with headers.. but so much louder when going at the 5K+ RPM.. open dump tube haha..



I'm sure my issues I'm having now is tune issues because mechanically the car is driving proper with LJ's tune. just having a starting issue now which the car cranks crank crank multiple times then starts and stalling issue every once in a while at idle.

got pm. i had the same issues with my car until i found a competent tuner (combination of churchs automotive for WOT and a guy that only did supras from MVP Motorsports to do the light throttle tuning).

idle after warm up a/f should be around ~14.7+- but definitely richer as the car is warming up since you gotta let the car drink gas to get higher rpms right?

crossing fingers hoping @DeliciousTuning will help me!

LJ sent you a basemap. That is about all it is supposed to do is get you to a tuner. My guess is that what @nelsmar told you is correct and for some reason there was a miscommunication between you and Delicious about what MAP sensor you are running. There are three main things that need to be correct in the tune for the car to run properly:

MAP Scaling
MAF Scaling
Injector Scaling

Yeah he quite obviously has injector issues for sure and most probably MAP from that short log... I didn't bother looking at the MAF though.

P.S. You boosted a high compression engine, please be safe and don't be hitting boost until you get it to a tuner. This is why I like to have the car dyno tuned right off the bat vs flashing, and waiting a few days for feedback =/

The cars are simliar enough a generic rom can be made but if your having these many issues (likely due to MAP & injectors, as delicious usually uses a different set of injectors) then I would let it mellow out until you get it tuned and avoid driving it. If you had the exact setup that delicious typically uses then the car should run a bit more within the margin of error.

just sent my log again to delicious. and hopefully can get a response soon.

We are working with Toni on this and unfortunately it's never as simple as "It idles on this base map but not on your tune" since the base map is a hybrid and therefore using maf at idle and low load, whereas ours is purely MAP all the time. The fact that there are still fueling issues on the base map as well with extended cranking is suspect, but we're leaning more toward a map issue and are sending a tune scaled for the stock map sensor purely to see if it will idle properly in order to rule out the map sensor.

Sincerely,

Zach
Delicious Tuning

*UPDATE*

i correctly my rough starting issue. it took multiple cranks to start the car then it acted normal. LJ recommended me to remove my fuel pump and add more o-rings to the pump to seat better. i took his advise and added 2 more even though he said 3 and the car started! with no issues..

Did you leave off the factory pumps o-ring hence the need to add more than 3 o-rings on your new pump?:iono:

I transfered oved the factory o-ring and nylon washer on like what the instructions showed.. And had the cranking rough start but added two more for a total of 3 o rings now and the car does start normally now.

Did this also fix your rough low end issue? As far as the RPM's jumping around when taking off or holding them at around 2000

that was corrected via a revised tune that LJ sent me.

I'm awaiting a map sensor from @DeliciousTuning.

they have sent me a tune to determine if my 4 bar from fb was causing the idle flucuation and it was determined to be correct but i am still currently driving with LJ tune which has not given me any issues.. crossing fingers that my flash and go kit from delicious will work with the new map sensor.:burnrubber:

Oh alright well I am kind of in the same boat as you were, after 3 months of headaches I finally have my car running without leaks, but the car is idling a little off and is VERY jumpy on the low end, plus it leans out when hitting boost and feels very dangerous to drive, with the base map installed. And I seen you chose to go with Delicious Tuning's flash and go tune and were working with them to fix the issue... is there a reason your not using their tune anymore and are back with FBM's tune??

I'm awaiting a map sensor from @DeliciousTuning.

they have sent me a tune to determine if my 4 bar from fb was causing the idle flucuation and it was determined to be correct but i am still currently driving with LJ tune which has not given me any issues.. crossing fingers that my flash and go kit from delicious will work with the new map sensor.

Ahhhh gotcha, ignore my last post then lol

That's funny because I am also using the 4 bar map sensor purchased from full blown, will have to see if it is also the reason for my issues

Any updates to these issues?