My first performance mod?
 

So I am looking into my first mod for my new BRZ.

The thing I have been noticing is that even on very small spirited rides, it gets a bit tuckered out... I am at a loss of words on how best to explain it quickly. But it doesn't shift as quickly, accelerate as quickly, feel as zippy.

So with a ton of talk of engine oil temps being the culprit of many issues, I am wondering if my first mod should be an oil cooler?

More specifically a Cusco since I am living in Detroit and will be driving the BRZ in the winter.

Other thoughts?

The answer is always tires.

1. get rid of those hideous wheels.
2. put good tires on the new wheels.
3. OFT and E85

+1. But burn thru your stock set first. Those tires are a lot of fun.

Also, there's an 86 driving academy coming this month, a worthwile investment. I know this is not a mechanical part. But 'you' are still part of the car ;)

https://www.facebook.com/86DDA?fref=ts

1) Driver Mod: Track days, AutoX, Seat Time, etc.
2) Tires
3) E85 and Tune

The only answer is Forced Induction.

The OEM tires have a mileage warranty on them...wear them out and have the money put towards MPSS's


But that's not really what the OP was asking since it sounds like he's got an auto and it's not being as aggressive while hot.

Always upgrade the weakest component first:

1) Driver Mod: Track days, AutoX, Seat Time, etc.
2) Alignment
3) Brakes
4) Tires

I really doubt it would be an issue with the oil temps if you are just doing some spirited driving on public roads, but I could be wrong...

I'd get a tune first, it makes the most difference and is the best bang for the buck. Just use the OEMs until winter hits, get winter tires and then come next spring get sticker tires and maybe wheels at the same time? unless you have another car for winter then meh.
As someone mentioned, the OEMs have just enough grip to be fun, not to mention good MPG. They are good enough to learn on.

My 2 cents

Good luck!

OT: for the mileage warranty, do you just complain to the dealer? :)

I suggest long travel rally suspension for Michigan roads

Seafoam. ;)

If you don't buy that, throw in a K/N and a Perrin inlet hose. You will feel like you are faster. Don't bother with an oil cooler.

In short - just go FI + e85/flex fuel.

Don't listen to anybody and do what you feel you need/want to do to the car first! :D

Personally, unless your really driving this hard an Oil Cooler won't make much of a difference. It will even be cooling the oil when your not driving the car hard and in the winter which can have other issues. Tuning is where I'd start, optimize it for what you have and see if you can log what's happening when the car is acting "less spirited" and take it from there.

Corn Juice

I would also get some way of reading oil temperatures and pressure, if you think that's the culprit. It'd be putting the cart ahead of the horse to install an oil cooler without actually knowing what your oil temperatures are.

In lieu of dedicated gauges, any number of the Bluetooth OBDII readers and the Torque app will let you see what's going on for under 30 dollars.

decals, definitely decals.

+5 HP and mad street cred

LS swap /thread

it's amazing what a simple alignment in these cars can do. especially on the brz.

a lot of these non-aesthetic mods can really do wonders.

Just to clarify this, Torque will give you oil temperature, but not pressure. The car has an oil temp sensor, and Torque will read the temp. But for pressure the car only comes with a pressure switch that turns on the idiot light at some ridiculously low psi and will not give you an actual pressure reading. You have to install an aftermarket oil pressure sender and separate gauge to get oil pressure in psi.

I run Torque almost all the time with a first gen Galaxy Note phone set up as a dedicated engine computer. I have water temp and oil temp gauges set up on it side by side. It usually stays below 220° unless I drive with the RPM up above 4K or 5K for an extended period of time. I seriously doubt any of us really need an oil cooler if we're not tracking the car.

You are correct. Brain fart.

Cool. Thanks for the suggestions. I like the idea of the BT ODBII reader for reading stats.

I'm saving for blizzaks now. TSW wheels and Michelin PSS, along with DBA rotors, Motul 600/660, SS lines all next year... Just started my job here in the D.

I'll probably do redstuff pads and a master cylinder brace this year since it's not too expensive.

As for bone stock tunes/flasher systems that are flexible enough to have stepped and reliable tunes as you add things like air intake, catless header, etc.; what do you guys recommend?

Do it slow, learn the car. & add things that you feel it's lacking on track 1by1

Brake pad is a very good start.