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-   -   Recommend a 0W-40 for me please (https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=89592)

empower-auto 06-05-2015 06:20 PM

Recommend a 0W-40 for me please
 
Hey guys, I tried searching but sadly this forum kills search terms like "0W-40" so it's impossible.

I am looking for an ALTERNATIVE to Motul Trophy 300V 0W-40. It's fantastic but has a short life span and is also prohibitively expensive.

I am in a warm but not boiling hot summer climate. It's not like Arizona / Cali or anything crazy.

Temperate during use will range outside from 15c to 25c on average

I am running forced induction and 0W-40 is recommended

Please provide evidence as to why your suggestion is good .. or I can just do the research I guess

wbradley 06-05-2015 08:11 PM

Mobil 1. Highly rated, true class IV synthetic PAU base stock. Way less pricey than boutique brands. Sold at CT locations.

roddy 06-05-2015 08:18 PM

Mobil 1 0W40 European formula, BC (Belgian Castrol) 0W40 European formula, GC (German Castrol) 0W30 (it is a thick 30...closer to a 40 weight). I've used the GC in my FR-S, and switched my wife's turbo Acura from M1 5w30 to GC some time ago.

T-Steve 06-05-2015 08:38 PM

Mobil 1 0W-40 - I've used it a long time in many applications for years. $25 at Walmart - can't beat it!

I am also a big supporter of GC German Castrol 0W-30, but it's thicker. Good sales at Autozone.

I want to try the new BC Belgian Castrol. It seems to have a pretty good rep.

After seeing how hot things get at my track day last week, I'll definitely use a 30 or 40 weight when tracking.

bluesubie 06-08-2015 03:49 PM

Do you have a built engine?

Red Line 0W40 would be closest in chemical make-up of the oil. Ester base stocks, high ZDDP, and high moly for friction modification. But since RL has a kinematic viscosity of 15.4 at 100C, it is thicker than 300V. It's even thicker than Rotella T6 5W40. For a Red Line recommendation, I would actually email them and I wouldn't be surpised if they advised you to stick with 0W30 or even 0W20. We've seen good uoa's on tracked, supercharged cars here running RL 0W20.

Having said that, I think any of the above recommendations would do well and you probably wouldn't need to go any thicker Euro Castrol 0W30. It holds up very well under harsh WRX conditions.

-Dennis

empower-auto 06-08-2015 07:33 PM

I have an internally stock motor

White64Goat 06-16-2015 04:04 PM

I have noticed in my last few times in changing the oil in my 02 WRX that a lot of places don't even carry a 10-40 oil anymore which sucks. Walmart used to carry the High Mileage Mobil1 10-40 but they haven't had it the last 2 times there. Same with Advance Auto and NAPA.

GenaFishbeck 06-17-2015 10:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by empower-auto (Post 2276563)
Hey guys, I tried searching but sadly this forum kills search terms like "0W-40" so it's impossible.

I am looking for an ALTERNATIVE to Motul Trophy 300V 0W-40. It's fantastic but has a short life span and is also prohibitively expensive.

I am in a warm but not boiling hot summer climate. It's not like Arizona / Cali or anything crazy.

Temperate during use will range outside from 15c to 25c on average

I am running forced induction and 0W-40 is recommended

Please provide evidence as to why your suggestion is good .. or I can just do the research I guess

Well empower-auto, here’s some info to consider: there is Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 0W-40 SRT Motor Oil which was developed in-conjunction with Chrysler SRT engines BUT we also have a Pennzoil Platinum Euro 0W-40 Motor Oil which meets Fiat, Mercedes Benz and VW gasoline engine specifications.

However, our manuals show that your 2013 Scion FR-S engine wants a SAE 0W-20 motor oil. With that said, we would recommend Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 0W-20 with PurePlus Technology for your application. In case you're unfamiliar with our new product line up, any products with the PurePlus Technology name are formulated with our patented gas-to-liquid process which converts natural gas into a base oil with lower friction, and greater stability than conventional motor oil made from crude base oil. Hope this helps! - The Pennzoil Team

Scott@HKSUSA 06-17-2015 02:59 PM

HKS offers 0W-42 for NA and FI FA20s.
Just an option, for more info you can read about it here:
http://www.hks-power.co.jp/en/produc...oil/index.html

bluesubie 06-19-2015 01:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Scott@HKSUSA (Post 2290465)
HKS offers 0W-42 for NA and FI FA20s.
Just an option, for more info you can read about it here:
http://www.hks-power.co.jp/en/produc...oil/index.html


I would never use oil from a company that makes up oil grades. 0W42 is a made up grade (i.e. not defined by SAE).

Scott@HKSUSA 06-19-2015 02:40 PM

All grades are "made up." SAE viscosity ratings are just that - a standardized viscosity rating system. If you started your own oil brand, you could specify a SAE 7W-36 blend if you wanted to. Now because HKS oil is designed & offered for modified or all-out racing engines, it isn't API certified, but that has nothing to do with the SAE viscosity rating.

Why does HKS offer such oddball viscosities? Their goal isn't to be a factory fill so they don't have to worry about the factory recommendation for general/daily driving in any/all conditions. Their goal is to blend the optimum viscosity for maximum power with maximum protection in a modified or all-out race engine in racing conditions. Mitsu. recommends 5W-30 for my Evo, but HKS' 4B11-specific oil is 3.5W-37, so it's a little lighter when it's cold and a little more stable when it's hot.

And I'll let you guys in on a little industry secret - despite the dozens of companies that offer performance oils, there are less than a handfull of refineries that produce, blend, and bottle for all of them. That isn't s slight towards anyone or any particular brand, that's just how the oil industry works in our little segment of their market. Specify a viscosity, specify a base, specify an additive pack, supply your packaging and you too could be off & running with your own brand of SAE 4.8W-26 oil.

HKS has a ton of manufacturing prowess, more than most, but even they don't have their own oil refinery. Not too many do.

bluesubie 06-22-2015 09:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Scott@HKSUSA (Post 2293126)
All grades are "made up." SAE viscosity ratings are just that - a standardized viscosity rating system. If you started your own oil brand, you could specify a SAE 7W-36 blend if you wanted to. Now because HKS oil is designed & offered for modified or all-out racing engines, it isn't API certified, but that has nothing to do with the SAE viscosity rating.

I didn't even realize you were from HKS USA.

I don't get it. A 40 grade means at oil that has a viscosity anywhere from 12.5 - 16.3 cSt's at 100C. Cold cranking viscosities are defined as well. There is no 42, 3.5, or 37. What is the viscosity at 100C of your 42 and your 37? Did you perform a cold cranking test to come up with a 3.5W and at what temp.?

http://www.widman.biz/English/Tables...iscosities.jpg

Quote:

Originally Posted by Scott@HKSUSA (Post 2293126)
And I'll let you guys in on a little industry secret - despite the dozens of companies that offer performance oils, there are less than a handfull of refineries that produce, blend, and bottle for all of them.

Yes, I know. There are only a few companies that make base oils and a few companies that make additives. But even most oil marketers/blenders follow the SAE J300 when producing and marketing oil. For example, Mobil1 0W40 is 13.5 cSt's at 100C and Red Line 0W40 is 15.4 cSt's at 100C. One is a thin 40 grade and one is a heavier 40 grade, but they're both 40 grades and not 39, 40.5, 41, 42, 43, or 44.

Do you post your product data sheets?

empower-auto 06-29-2015 12:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Scott@HKSUSA (Post 2293126)
All grades are "made up." SAE viscosity ratings are just that - a standardized viscosity rating system. If you started your own oil brand, you could specify a SAE 7W-36 blend if you wanted to. Now because HKS oil is designed & offered for modified or all-out racing engines, it isn't API certified, but that has nothing to do with the SAE viscosity rating.

Why does HKS offer such oddball viscosities? Their goal isn't to be a factory fill so they don't have to worry about the factory recommendation for general/daily driving in any/all conditions. Their goal is to blend the optimum viscosity for maximum power with maximum protection in a modified or all-out race engine in racing conditions. Mitsu. recommends 5W-30 for my Evo, but HKS' 4B11-specific oil is 3.5W-37, so it's a little lighter when it's cold and a little more stable when it's hot.

And I'll let you guys in on a little industry secret - despite the dozens of companies that offer performance oils, there are less than a handfull of refineries that produce, blend, and bottle for all of them. That isn't s slight towards anyone or any particular brand, that's just how the oil industry works in our little segment of their market. Specify a viscosity, specify a base, specify an additive pack, supply your packaging and you too could be off & running with your own brand of SAE 4.8W-26 oil.

HKS has a ton of manufacturing prowess, more than most, but even they don't have their own oil refinery. Not too many do.

And this is why my car is a rolling ad for HKS parts right now

mashal 06-29-2015 12:53 AM

Who recommended using ow40? I'm FI, shop recommended 5w40

PunX 06-29-2015 06:58 AM

I'm stock and running Bardahl 0W30, can't be more happy, oil keeps at normal temp and doesn't go 120 degrees C(248F) any more during fun time or slow traffic. So i would recommend 0W40 for FI, even 0W50 from ENEOS if accessible in any way, 0w50 is LFA's stock engine oil :P
Of course there's this cold crank oil pressure debate, but in a long run - everybody should decide on their own, if they travel by 1/4th of a mile a time or like running 1,5h drift sessions :D

Knshro13 07-06-2015 09:58 PM

Mobil 1 0w-40 European formula.

rice_classic 07-13-2015 07:19 PM

Only since the OP used the words "prohibitively expensive" I'm going to repeat what others have said:

The Mobil 1 0w-40 Euro oil is very good along with the Amsoil 0w-40 signature.

Google either one with the "UOA" and "VOA" in the search string to see their specs both new and used. The HTHS, TBN and additives are right in line with what you're looking for: Affordability, protection level, duration and cost.

Crazypinoy9 07-20-2015 11:09 PM

Anyone using Rotella T6 5w40? I used to use it in my STi and have been thinking of switching out from the 0w20 i've using right now.

*it'll help if i mentioned that i'm on FI too ;)

rice_classic 07-21-2015 02:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Crazypinoy9 (Post 2328412)
Anyone using Rotella T6 5w40? I used to use it in my STi and have been thinking of switching out from the 0w20 i've using right now.

*it'll help if i mentioned that i'm on FI too ;)

Even though the T6 is a 5w-40 it says on the bottle that it's comparable to a 15w-40 oil.

Pros: Cheap, good additives for Diesel and DI engines.

Cons: Extra wear on startup.

Anecdotal:

I tried it for a race weekend this year because I like to try new things from time to time and toward the end the of the day I watched the pressure fall (temp static) which suggests shearing and by the end of the weekend I consistently running 5-10 psi less than I was when I started the weekend. So I did some digging and kept finding an underlying theme about how this oil shears down at high rpm becoming more like a 30wt which would explain what I experienced.

I replaced the oil with Mobil1 0w-40 for the following event and did a 6 entry race weekend with over 6 hours of race time and the pressure stayed the same throughout the weekend (which is what I'm used to). So no more Rotella T6 for me in the race car.


With that being said.. If 90% of engine wear occurs at startup, I'd want to run an 0w-xx for something that's also DD. If it's only tracked or is a dedicated race car then startup wear isn't as important.

Crazypinoy9 07-21-2015 04:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rice_classic (Post 2329275)
Even though the T6 is a 5w-40 it says on the bottle that it's comparable to a 15w-40 oil.

Pros: Cheap, good additives for Diesel and DI engines.

Cons: Extra wear on startup.

Anecdotal:

I tried it for a race weekend this year because I like to try new things from time to time and toward the end the of the day I watched the pressure fall (temp static) which suggests shearing and by the end of the weekend I consistently running 5-10 psi less than I was when I started the weekend. So I did some digging and kept finding an underlying theme about how this oil shears down at high rpm becoming more like a 30wt which would explain what I experienced.

I replaced the oil with Mobil1 0w-40 for the following event and did a 6 entry race weekend with over 6 hours of race time and the pressure stayed the same throughout the weekend (which is what I'm used to). So no more Rotella T6 for me in the race car.


With that being said.. If 90% of engine wear occurs at startup, I'd want to run an 0w-xx for something that's also DD. If it's only tracked or is a dedicated race car then startup wear isn't as important.

Noted. Thanks so much for your input. I'll just go with a 0w40 then :)


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