PLM EL HEADER BRZ
 

just install PLM el header, with Injen air intake, no tuned yet, another pipe all stock, when i start the car, the sound the same as OEM, but when i go to high REV like more than 4K, there is much more sound than stock, i will upload video asap, just need to find some place to test in west LA, too much traffic and cops, and i dont test it in apt or house area

That's an equal length header

Lol I'm think equal and I type UEL.... Omg, bad English


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Ummm, my friends said PLM gaskets is bad quality, worse than OEM one , so he install OEM one on my car


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I search thread said Catless or catted will cause CEL, but I didn't, why? And on idea what is Catless or catted....


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Plm doesn't have a cat. It will show a cel without a tune.

Catless and catted refer to the catalytic converter, which is a kind of filter for the fumes your engine makes. Catless means no catalytic converter. Catted does.

Ok, I see, so mine is Catless, thanks


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But right now it didn't show cel and I didn't tune


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Give it time, you will.

Lol, alright, I think I have get OFT asap


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header sound
 

Definitely get the OFT. I also just installed the PLM long tube header, and I think Shiv's stage 2 EL tune will be a big improvement. Let me know if you have a buzzing at 3000 RPM, or if the 3000 - 4000 flat spot is present. I have an automatic BRZ and I'm adjusting my tune for 2 things; to get rid of the flat spot, and to remove all stutters/hesitation after making manual shifts. I got rid of the after-shift hesitation, but there is still a bit of a flat spot. See here, https://youtu.be/Qcz-XJCMOUU

You need to put it through its paces, I give it 6 months before something on the header fails. Cracks

I notice you don't have your header heat wrapped or coated. I would recommend, at the very least, heat wrapping the pipe closest to the radiator fans. Since you're in CA, where stop-and-go traffic is the norm, rather than the exception. You will build up more heat while stopped. If/when you get your OFT I can show you where to change your fan settings to keep your car from heating up as much. The OFT OTS stage 2 tunes work well for this header, but, the UEL tune has less of a flat spot.

Thanks! A member already told me to coating it, just wait get money next month


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In the meantime, you could still melt the plastic next to the pipe. How about at least wrapping the plastic with aluminum foil. It wouldn't cost anything but time, you won't have to replace an expensive OEM part while you're waiting to get your header coated, and you can still use your new header.

I also just posted my findings about tuning out the flat spot with RomRaider software and an OFT. See here; http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...&postcount=250

I just bought some high temperature paint, and I want to coating by myself, is that working?


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nobody knows if it is working but you bud

I've read nothing but bad things about using high-temp paint on headers. The exhaust coatings used professionally are actually ceramic-based. Anything lower temp will smell noxious every time you use your car. I recommend returning the high-temp paint, get your money back, and wait till you can afford to get either the volcanic rock based thermal wrap, or drop it off to be professionally coated. The fiberglass wrap is cheaper, but you end up smelling it every time you drive. They say it burns off, but it still smells forever. The rock wrap burns off and doesn't smell very much after that. I got my last 2 headers professionally coated and they only smelled the first day, after that the smell went away.

high temperature paint will make it look pretty but it won't do anything to stop heat radiating from header.

You need ceramic thermal coating for that or header heat wrap

He deosn't have to worry about the stock resonator melting because he doesn't have the stock airbox. Injen Intake can be seen in the picture. I haven't heard of anyone having issues with the fan shrowd melting. If so, @ZHoward I have a ton of foil tape you can use if you're worried about it.
High temp paint will make it look pretty and protect it from rust, but that's it. Ceramic coating is teh way to go.
This place did my header for $150 http://www.pacificcoastpowdercoating.com/

Haha, thanks, I don't worry about that, the only thing I'm worry about is overheating on track, cause I'm already feel it is hotter than before after I drive on freeway


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And I know ur place and it is good price, but it is too far .... I have to go to class on weekday and I don't think they are working on weekends...


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easy to see the difference between this and nameless now after those closeup weld shots

What's the difference?


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.

The PLM had 1/2 the welds of the Nameless is what I saw.

half the welds for half the price lol....actually about a third of the price

I think I am closing in on that number now and no issues at all so far with it other than having to make a custom 3" Overpipe which didn't hurt me at all in the end with my FI Setup.

I did close ups some time ago of the welds, could give you an even better look.

Still got it? hows it working out for you?

I have had mine on since July of last year, and I have had no problems. Actually, I have been quite pleased with it. No torque dip. Even power band all the way up, and almost 200whp without E85.

Damn, what do you have paired with them. Is that just with the headers?

I have the header, Tomei over pipe and Titanium front pipe. Custom Titanium mid pipe by JDL, and a prototype Titanium exhaust made by a shop in Florida. Skunk2 Air Intake. New clutch and lightweight flywheel by Exedy. Custom Dyno Tune by RSEnthalpy in Tampa.

we need some exhaust clips:D:D:D

I'll try to get one tomorrow for you.

Took me longer than expected because of work, but here is a video of a cold start and then it quiets down.
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t...psmjlvl4im.mp4

thumbsup.