What supporting Mods do you REALLY need?
 

Alright I've done all kinds of reading about FI supporting mods on this forum but I feel like I don't have a real route to go with here.




I have an A/T FRS, looking to do a Vortech system set up and i'm aiming for a reliable daily driver with some pop since this car is really missing it.
I've read up on everything from oil coolers, catch cans, tranny coolers...but what do you REALLY need in order to commute to and from work, maybe some high revs on the weekends yknow nothing crazy guys.
There are a lot of cool and smart FRS owners on this forum that have seen it all when it comes to this car, so i'm looking for your opinion.:burnrubber:

All you need is a bolt on kit and a good tune to be very basic.
Go for an oil cooler/larger radiator if you decide to track the car. A catch can or AOS may not be necessary since you wont be in constant boost. You may want to change your fuel pump as it would be running higher duty cycle but it isn't critical. Just dont drive around hard with a close to empty tank because you may starve the pump.
250whp range is usually a bolt and go.

If you want more power or want to run E85, you will have to get larger injectors or find a tuner that can tune for the use of both PI/DI at the same time.
Vortech kits don't make a lot of torque, so a new clutch isn't necessary.

I would suggest only an oil cooler based on your location. The AT really only needs a cooler if you hammer it for extended periods of time.

Thanks very much for your input, I appreciate it.:happyanim:

Yeah, an oil cooler seems to be a good idea. I'll be driving it in SoCal. I wouldn't have dreamed of shipping my car to this infernal base....cars take a beating out here from scorching sun and only DIY maintenance. There's a guy with an earlier gen supra here and the turbo gives a nasty audible pop when he parks it. I can't imagine how much caked up oil is in it...only boosted car I've seen on this base to date

Yup for a base vortech kit just a solid tune and a oil cooler. The smaller mocal with the 13 row radiator like sold on the Perrin kit should be perfect. If you are getting v3 becareful if you head to the track

Is there an issue with trying to track the v3?

Yes. Under heavy load they dont hold up well. I believe there is a heavy duty oil cooled v2 you want if your are going run at the track

For what it is worth~

When I went FI I asked LJ/Fullblown what should I do first for cooling. Their oil cooler or their radiator?

They replied with radiator. It is the better value per dollar for a lower cost ($300ish for a radiator vs $500 for an oil cooler.) And better supporting mod for the daily driver.

Keep in mind this was which to do first.

Its been proven that the stock rad is fine. And he is going sc and not a turbo so the oil cooler is a much better choice. In so cal on a na car oil temps can climb

Zero clue why they'd recommend that. Stock water cooling is excellent. Oil cooling is definitely a priority in any warm climate or FI setup.

Are you at GTMO or in Cali???
 

Your profile thing says you're in GTMO? but you say you're at a base in Cali.
if you were at GTMO were you just on base or part of the JTF??

JAden

Oil cooler and catch can are a must. Then catless header. If you change pulley, then consider wheel/tire upgeade, a stg 2 clutch, brake pads, fluid, and lines.

Lol limit of stock radiator hasn't been found even on track. That was bad advice.

Sadly its a slippery slope with these cars

Good tune, oil cooler, catch cans, and you'll be good to go.

Great thread, I was wondering the same thing as I just bought the Sprintex charger for just a little more oomph. Also, an A/T here. Will look into the oil cooler but not looking to go crazy as well. To and from work with a spirited run here and there. I should be fine to get the SC installed and tuned first and then get the oil cooler or would I need to get retuned after I got the oil cooler? If thats the case, might as well save a little more and get it all done at once.

Ive read from a lot of posters that an oil cooler could be bad for the car especially on colder days. That oil needs to get up to temp to be viscous enough. I warrant when you go FI you will need to think about the proper oil to use. I know people are going to poo poo on my oil cooler comment but I felt compelled to bring it up. Perhaps someone could chime in. I do believe that if you track the car an oil cooler is important. But I think that under normal DD circumstances an oil cooler may cause more complications than its worth.

I thought he said he was stationed in gitmo. And leaving his car in Cali. No reason he wouldn't have his frs in Irwin and pretty sure there are a few fi cars there in the area

thermostatic plate - let's the oil get up to a certain temp before flowing through the cooler

I wasn't questioning the veracity of it...
 

It was more a question to find out what capacity he was at GTMO in and whether he was there now or had been there and forgot to update his profile.

I was there as part of the JTF with military intelligence and it's relatively rare, which is why I was asking...

Jaden

Exactly. Unless you live on the surface of the sun, like I do. I didn't worry about that option.
There's no downsides to installing an oil cooler, especially with the thermostatic option. You also add almost a quart of oil capacity to your engine.
And to the earlier comment, no you do not need a tune adjustment for an oil cooler.
Beyond having to fix/seal the fittings on my Mishimoto, I'm very happy with its ability to keep my oil a good 20-30 degrees cooler

I take what I said back. Needs an oil cooler for hot days. I installed Tomei UEL headers recently. In 100 degree weather, with 6 hard pulls on the highway, the coolant starts to boil. I never had this problem with stock header since it had the heat shield. I've ran hard in 100 degree weather with the stock headers many times without overheating. Maybe I should wrap the UEL headers.

So from my experience, if you are running with the stock headers on a non oil fed FI unit, there is enough shielding and cooling going on that you wont need any extra cooling system, but you are reaching the limit. I monitored this. When I would do hard pulls, I would see 246 F temps, which was the highest. Then I would drive normal and the temps would start to level out at 228-230 F within a minute. This was in 100 F weather. I drove like this for 50k miles.
If your headers dump a lot of heat, they should be wrapped and get an oil cooler.

Thermostatic plate. Done.

Nice input everybody.


Really excited to slap on the Vortech when I get off this rock. Probably will be going to Evasive Motorsports for the install. :party0030:

If you take anyones advice, it better be CSG Mike's.

I'd wait to see the numbers...
 

Wait till June to see the numbers on the edelbrock kit... It's only a month away...

Jaden

Having the Vortech, you can bolt her up and go.

To get the most out of it you'll need injectors, fuel pump, and a CBE.

If you want to step it up a notch you'll want the v2 with HD barrings and the 3.125 or 2.87 pulley.

To get the most out of that you'll want a header back exhaust and E85. The vortech does not do ~much~ better with smaller pulleys on 93. However you will pick up much better throttle response.