Random tip - cold starts
 

Hey peeps,

Just a quick tip I thought I would share in-case you didn't know.

I never like starting my car "normally" after it has been standing for a few days. Due to my working environment, the BRZ sometimes stands for a few days depending on how busy I am.

The following procedure will allow the car to crank for however long you want without starting.
It will also stop the car from having that obnoxiously loud - if you have an exhaust - (and sometimes cool) high idle which is primarily used for emissions purposes to warm the cat up.

Step by step:
1. Have your keys in the car and be seated in the drivers seat (obviously).
2. Put your clutch and accelerator pedal to the floor and hold them there.
3. Press the "Stop Start" button and allow it to crank for however long you want.
4. Release the clutch pedal and it will stop cranking.
5. Start the car normally: Clutch in and press "Stop Start"

NOTE: I have not tried this with a "standard" spec non-key-less entry car.
EDIT: Works with STD spec 86 too! (Thanks @Scarl3t !)
EDIT2: Works on auto's too. Simply replace the clutch with the brake pedal in the steps above. (Thanks @KoolBRZ !)

Benefits: The longer your car has been standing, the more oil will drain to the sump and away from the components that need it. Depending on how long the car has been standing for, a few revolutions are made with inadequate amounts of lubrication.
By cranking you car for a few seconds, you will get the oil circulating first.
Engine builders usually crank a car a few times before starting a new engine for the first time. In the aeromotive industry as well, it is procedure to crank the engine for x amount of seconds before ignition.

We enable this feature on most cars, especially race cars which tend to stand for a while between races.

The BRZ/86 has this feature build in and already enabled luckily. :thumbup:

When I leave my car standing, it shivers and rattles just kakking itself for when I'm going to climb into it again and that keeps the oil circulating, so no problem for me. :)

On a more serious note - one learns something new every day. Thanks.

Hahaha, it wouldn't dare let the oil drain in anticipation!

So true, pleasure ;)

Wow that's some really nice feature. Nice find!


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Nice tip there, thanks

Are there any special conditions as to when not to do it? Cause I did it now to check and my 86 is completely dead/unresponsive now. It's like as if I disengaged the battery. Has anyone had this happen before? It's the second time now, can't even lock the doors. When the first time happened, the car came back after a short while. This time it's been 10-15min already and my 86 is still sitting here like a large, but good looking, brick.

I'm not well knowledged when it comes to cars even though I want and ought to be. Do any of you guys know what's happening? Did I allow petrol to go up into the engine? (Bear in mind when I tried this procedure, I don't think it even turned the oil once before everything died)

Hi Ryliko,

Nope, no special conditions. I'll edit my first post to make the procedure more clear.

By "the second time now" did you try it before and the same thing happened?

Just got back from the garage testing it again and it works 100%.

I'll make a video this weekend to demonstrate.

Hi Dammod,

I'm in no way doubting your tip or the process of it. if it's only my car that's had this issue then I think something's up with the car from factory.

The first time I don't actually recall what I specifically did. I didn't know about this procedure though. It was sort of a the car wouldn't start, tried it a few times, might have depressed the other pedals too in frustration. Got out the car and realized it wouldn't even lock and that everything seemed dead.

This second time however I followed the procedure though. I depressed the clutch first, then the accelerator, held down the engine start button. The car turned or was in the process of turning then everything died. I may have made the mistake of letting the engine start button go before the accelerator though but by this time the car had already died.

That sounds like your battery is dead, or something shorted out (I hope not).:iono: Check your fuses?

Which is very odd considering I only got the car two months ago.

Thank you Dammod for helping

No problem, just thought I would make it more of a "step by step" process as it needs a bit or coordination.

That is an odd issue you are having as it seems to be pretty random. Check this thread out, prehaps you might have the same issue.

Dont stress about it, manufacturing defaults do happen. Get your dealer to take a look at the car, I assume you are still under warranty?
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18981

Edited my post too late, check your fuses maybe.

Ah I apologise, I didn't notice it was your post Freedom. Thank you as well. I'm a car guy in nature but unfortunately not in theory, so I'll just be honest here and ask can you specifically point out where to look?

Yes, I'm still under warranty... though I can see a massive dispute coming as right after I installed the brz exhaust, my dealer from Market Toyota Cape Town sent his "regards" and stated that my car will be void of warranty (before I bought the car he even said powerflow' were allowed). I know technically they cannot just void it based on an exhaust which brings about a neglible effect on the engine... but that is another matter anf I don't want to derail this thread.

This is the fuse box, only ours in on the right hand side:
http://i62.tinypic.com/2v9ohw0.jpg
Don't let them push you around like that. Some dealers are far too quick to cancel warranties. :thumbdown:

Show them the "98RON Only" stick on the inside of your petrol cap and ask them if using 95 will void your warrenty too. :lol:

First of all they cannot void the entire warranty of your car. The exhaust will not be covered, that is all.

The fuse box is under the hood, in front of the battery. But I don't know which to look for.

Oh my.......... it was the one terminal of the battery that wasn't tightened from factory. The one bolt was so loose that a simple rocking of the car/ignition must've made it loose contact. As soon as the positive battery cover was lifted up, she came back to life! It's also an error on my part for not checking or not having the wisdom to have checked. I guess the silver lining is I don't have to deal with the dealership today.

And I was still so aggravated by feeling tricked into the sale by my dealer that I haven't exactly responded to his last email about the warranty issue. However, what he basically inferred was the entire warranty (bull$hit I know) and not just the exhaust.

I'll open a separate thread regarding the exhaust warranty issue as I don't want to derail this thread any further.

Thank you so much for both of your inputs, even though I feel like a tool for not knowing any better to check the battery myself :thumbup:

Aah, thats how we learn bud. At least you know the first thing to check if it ever happens again.

Pleasure man. Maybe you could expand on what you mean by "tricked into the sale" in your thread you going to make.

the pre delivery process should have highlighted the loose terminal, bad dealer.

It wouldn't really be tricked, per say, but it (the fact that I was under the presumption that the car could be reasonably modded - wheels, exhaust) did play a factor in influencing my decision to purchase. I'll touch base on this in the separate thread.


@GeeTee86, bad dealer but unfortunately theres only two options of dealers in Cape Town: foreshore and somerset west. I don't exactly stay near Somerset west :sigh:

confirmed working on STD 86,

thanks for the tip!!!!

Thanks bud!

Regards,
Damien

How does this eliminate the cold (loud) high idle? Do you need to let it crank for a while to eliminate the cold high idle or can you just tap it for a bit and then the next start will be normal idle?

The idea behind cranking the motor is to get it lubed up before you start it,
don't think it's ment to eliminate the high idle upon start.

but i may be wrong, anyone have other thoughts on this?

The 'high idle' start is based on the temperature of the coolant. This will not affect that.

Like @Scarl3t said, the main idea behind this is to lube the motor up, however:
I have found that by simply letting it turn over for a few seconds (5?) using the above mentioned method, the car starts with a less "severe" the high idle.

Just my personal observation I thought I'd mentioned. You welcome to give it a go to see for yourself.

Thanks guys. That makes sense. Nonetheless a good tip - maybe not a bad idea after an oil change.

Also true! Good idea.

Works on automatics too!

Just hold down brake and throttle pedals to the floor and crank. It keeps turning over, but won't start until you take your feet off the pedals.

:burnrubber:

Great! Thanks for letting us know!:thumbsup:

Tried this a couple of high 30F low 40F mornings and it does seem to help with the cold start noise. Mostly the annoying overlap was decreased.

Thanks for confirming that I wasnt imagining things @Andrew025 :w00t:

Do not try this with an already hot engine.....
wanted to show my wife as she asked when we went for a drive why my car battles to start in the morning as i now religiously crank it a few times before starting , and failed miserably as the car revved to the limiter as soon as i turned the key.

lol

Pressing the accelerator flat while cranking the motor, cancels the injectors. I use this method when I do compression testing on my drift car and too lazy to pull off the injector pigtails.

It makes sense that you will lube up the motor.

Yeah, and helps prime turbo's too :D