Issues with getting camber to -3 in front?
 

Hey guys,

I bought some Tein SRC's, installed them, and went to a local alignment shop to get my car taken care of. However, the shop had some serious issues working on getting my camber to -3 like I wanted. Now, I don't know much about setting camber. I know that moving around the little bolts in the camber plate adjusts the camber, but that's about it.

Here's before their adjustment, at -1.7 camber:
http://i.imgur.com/1bhkjRp.jpg

And here's after their adjustment at -2.0:
http://i.imgur.com/OeoIBVc.jpg

I am 99% sure that I've installed the coilovers correctly, and I'm guessing that the guy aligning my car doesn't know how to adjust this properly, and because of my lack of knowledge on adjusting camber, I had to basically stick with -2.0, and for a competitive car in STX, I'd like to be sitting at -3.2 or so.

I also wanted to give a shout out to @CSG David for being so helpful and responding to my emails so fast while I was at the shop, I was really impressed.

Doesn't look like you can get any more camber from the upper mount, if you want more you'll need to adjust at the knuckle.

I'm guessing that's where you'd pop a camber bolt and the like? The most confusing bit to me, is how the CSG guys were able to get to the -3 mark with ease with the same coilover setup. That's why I'm confused, mostly. :iono:

Alan was getting way more than -3.x of camber. You may want to check on install and make sure you're using the right bolts. It's definitely a mistake from the installation side (which can possibly happen if you're tired). All the SRC guys are able to hit their intended alignment spec. :)

Just an FYI here with some random thoughts. The first time I installed the Ohlins R&T, I reused the lower two strut bolts. The second time I installed them, I used new bolts. And on the second install, I was able get a significantly higher amount of negative camber. Maybe the amount of stretch in these bolts impacts camber?

I'll check to make sure I'm using the right bolts, I could've swore I did. You re-use one of the bolts from the factory, and they come with an additional one, correct? Maybe I misunderstood Alan when he explained which bolt to reuse and which hole the included bolt went in.

I only had one new bolt for each side, not two. I was told by the previous owner to reuse one of the bolts from the stock setup. I might've mixed up which bolt went on top and which went on bottom. It's allllll starting to come together now.

Unfortunately, I won't have access to a jack until Friday. :(

I haven't installed the SRCs in awhile (Mike has been doing the work...hehehehe). The top hole should be slotted and I believe TEIN provides a "bushing" that fills in that slot when you install the bolt. Either way, -3.x should not be an issue. If there's still an issue, West End has done a few alignments with the SRC installed BRZ/FRS so they can help diagnose that issue for you. Might cost a little extra, but they are fast and efficient. All their measurements have been dead-on every time so when you can, make that appointment! :)

I've been dying to go to go to West End. Unfortunately, I'm in Bakersfield and my available days to get all the way down there is very limited. Once I get my LCA's I'd love to go to them to get my car worked on.

@CSG Mike, just to make sure when I check and make sure I did this install right, the bolt with that bushing goes in the top hole that is TEIN provided, and the bottom is the stock bolt, correct?

As someone that has just ordered a set of TEIN SRCs, I'm also interested in this. So the SRCs come with the upper strut bolt? Does this need to be replaced after each install? If so, how is this done?

No it doesn't. The install is super straight forward so bolts don't need to be replaced. Always refer to the pictures in the Japanese manual. :)

I have this odd feeling that the camber plates might have been set incorrectly. While caster is not exactly easily changed, it's possible because there are sufficient amount of holes available to use and you can also spin the camber plate around to incorporate a little extra caster change.

How low are you? Lower creates more natural camber also.

Unfortunately, the bits of the manual that Alan gave me didn't have pictures. So I just kinda went with it, hahaha.

And I assumed the SRC's came with a bolt, because Alan left one on with the washer bit attached to the strut. So David, you have any idea where I can get my hands on some of those pictures? :thumbup:

I'm low. A lot lower than I thought I'd be. 1.4-1.6" from stock, give or take.

It's literally an exploded view of the components that go on the shock. Basically if you follow that, you know where each component should be. Also, you can look at the simple recommended measurements to ensure the recommended preload and height are dialed in. :)

It's about 1.4" drop for recommended (although Alan is into dat look doe), but it doesn't ride or feel like it is lowered by 1.4", which is actually the biggest difference compared to everything else out there. ;)

I'll let you guys know how this weekend goes with digging through manuals and such, see if I can get my camber to what it should be.

I believe Alan said it was about a 1.5-.6" off from stock. I scrape on everything right now, it's pretty bad :bonk:

Alan has a tendency to make the car look good. Keep in mind with that specific setting and a couple tweaks to the settings, Alan's car did a 1:24.x at Streets of Willow driven by Mike 2 years ago.

Unless there is supposed to be washers spacing the upper mount apart from itself to allow the raised area to fit under the green part of the mount, there's no way you're getting more negative at the top based on this picture. If others are getting more and the top holes are slotted then that's where you should be looking. Max out the negative at the knuckle then even it out using the upper mounts.

http://i.imgur.com/OeoIBVc.jpg

I found the measurements for the car in stock form here on the forums, so I'll see what the gap is between the two. If I can find a jack that is low profile enough to fit under my car tonight, I'll have those bolts checked and my car realigned tomorrow.

And that's impressive. To my knowledge, there hasn't been much done power-wise to Alan's car, from the looks of his build and what he was parting out on the car.

He added a few more items after that time was performed.

Loosen the lower strut bolts and have someone pull out the bottom of your rotor or push in the top of your rotor while you tighten the bolts. The should ensure you get max camber from the lower strut bolts.

Get a 2x4 drive up it, should clear then for a jack

I just saw this thread...

I'm gonna guess something funky is going on at the knuckle end. Even with your OEM bolts, with the recommend drop, you should have way more camber than that.

Although I'm only running 3.2 degrees, I was able to get almost 4 degrees up front with spc camber bolts up top. One thing I noticed was the camber bolts only went in one direction in the tein coilovers, one hole size is larger allowing it to be inserted in in position.

@Churg

Ever get this resolved? What was the issue?