TPMS help
 

Does anyone know if I will need to program a set of tpms sensors if I get another set of oem FRS tpms and put them on aftermarket wheels and keep the originals on the stock wheels ?

I tried searching but all I can find is for new sensors and using a tool. But will oem sensors need to be programmed too?

Yes. They all have a unique serial which the computer reads, so you'll need to program your car for them. Easy to do at the dealer. Or just have tire shop swap your stock ones in, which can be done w/o removing the tire (but will require unbeading it).

^what he said.

That's what I'm trying to avoid. To either keep paying to swap them or program. You know if I can have 2 different sets programmed to the car? that way I can just pay programming once And have both stocks and aftermarket programmed to my car

Hopefully someone answers this question. This is what I'm planning on doing soon. I think I'm going to use the stock wheels for snow tires and get a set of nice aftermarket wheels for summer tires.

Nope, you can't have 2 sets programmed at once. However, I think there is something you can get to program yourself... although I'm not too sure about that.

[ame="http://www.amazon.com/ATEQ-QuickSet-TPMS-Reset-Tool/dp/B008SCWXN4/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1423663365&sr= 1-1&keywords=ateq+quickset"]ATEQ Quickset[/ame]

Are you tired of shelling out big bucks to the dealer every time you swap wheels or rotate tires? Need to replace a sensor or two? The ATEQ Quickset TPMS reset tool is the perfect tool for those of us that swap wheels regularly or have a set of summer and winter wheels! Don't spend another dime (or hour) at the dealer! Reset (relearn) your TPMS yourself at home!

The QuickSet downloads the IDs that are stored in your vehicle's ECU. The PC based software allows you to enter the IDs from your alternate set of tires into the QuickSet. You must have your alternate set of IDs available (from a TPMS decoder tool such as the ATEQ VT30, provided by a garage, an invoice or on the sensor itself). Once the QuickSet is updated with the alternate set of IDs, you are able to upload these to your vehicle's ECU through the OBDII port.

I have this and it works great. I have my OEM wheels and tires for summer, and another set of FR-S wheels and Blizzaks for winter. This lets me tell the car what wheels are on it, and the TPMS light stays off.

And all you have to know is the serials?

Correct. The ATEQ will actually tell you the codes of the OEM sensors that are currently programmed to the car. Then you just need to enter the new codes (via Windows computer and supplied program). Any tire shop will have a tool that can read the codes, but not all shops have the correct tool to write the codes to the ECU. That's what happened in my case, they were able to read the winter TPMS codes, but couldn't program them. The ATEQ allowed me to program the new codes based on what the shop gave me. When summer rolls around, I will swap the OEM wheels back and enter them into the ECU.

Yes (we have that exact tool at our shop).

The problem is that it won't pull the serials from the sensors nor does it keep track of wheel/sensor position in a useful way, at least it has never for us. You can move the serial numbers around to the appropriate location in the software easily enough, but you need to know what wheel each sensor is in to do that. If you buy new wheels/tires from Tirerack and have them mount/balance them for you, they only give you the serials on a piece of paper, with no indication of vehicle placement. Maybe they changed that practice now, it's been almost 2 years.

Explanation/story: My right front tire came off the bead awhile ago. It broke that wheel's sensor (aftermarket wheels and sensors). I bought a matching new sensor from Tirerack, wrote the number down (and they print it out for you), installed it. Used the ATEQ tool to change the serial for the RF wheel. The problem with that is that the positions in the ATEQ software are arbitrary, so although I replaced the serial in the RF position according to the software, it wasn't actually the RF sensor serial. So now I don't know which sensor actually broke and was replaced. The software only pulls the codes from the vehicle memory (read: currently stored in the car), it does NOT pull numbers from the sensors themselves.

Currently my only options are:
1) pull the 3 other wheels and break the outer beads so I can read the serials, which is easy enough..but I wish I knew this was going to be an issue when I just had the wheels off to do my brake pads and lines...and replace that one broken sensor, or
2) replace serials one by one until I get the correct one. This will only work IF the serial number I replaced in the software is still saved somewhere.


Please note, this was entirely preventable:
1) I should have written down as much of the serial number of the broken sensor as I could when I removed it. That way I'd at least have an idea of which sensor needed to be replaced in the software.
2) I should have remembered where I put the paper from Tirerack with the 4 original serials they installed in my wheels.
3) I should have written down the 4 serials before I replaced the one with the new number. Especially since I knew I forgot where the Tirerack paper was.



***************** Cliffs Notes **********************

Yes, you just need to know the sensor serial numbers to use that tool. Make sure to write them all down, and store that paper somewhere you'll remember. Also, I highly suggest you enter the serials in the appropriate wheel location in the software.

Same Problem
 

I had the exact same problem, but it went away when I removed the sensors.


Now there are 4 lighter wheels and a faster car ! (or so the unsprung weight theory says) ----------------


Less lead required for balancing also !


The flashing light bothered me for about the first 5 mins. of driving and is now easy to ignore.

WRITE DOWN THE SENSOR ID AND WHICH LOCATION IT'S INSTALLED IN.

I didn't do that when I got my 2nd set of TPMS installed. Had to get the shop to peel back the tire and re-read the IDs. Ugggggggh.

Many common tire shops have a tool that can be placed in the proximity of a TPMS sensor and read the code without removing the tire.

New product request: A tool that can plug into the OBD port and short circuit the TMPS light bulb :)

So in other words there is no easy way out? I saw that tool be mentioned on other threads but a lot of people say it's not good and wouldn't recommend it. Guess I'm going to end up not using sensors on the aftermarket wheels

The tool works fine. It's just not completely idiot proof, as evidenced by some of the responses here, mine included.

EDIT: The tool is idiot proof. The process is apparently not.

I have the same setup as @tobin and it works great.

Is it worth buying the tool or jus keeping the annoying light on ?

I just live with the dash light being on. Both sets of aftermarket wheels/tires I have don't have TPMS sensors in them. Just another dash light to have on, I often have the traction and/or stability control lights lit up on my dash too. On some other cars I've used pre-cut pieces of tint on the dash to minimize the annoyance of TPMS or other dash lights being lit up.

Just to make sure those other lights are on by choice? I read somewhere that in some cars the stability/traction don't work with out tpms?

"Worth it" is a decision you need to make yourself. I didn't buy the one at our shop, but I would have if we didn't have it. I can't stand dash lights being on. To the point I might look into making the traction control lights come on when those systems are on (which is never) instead of when I turn them off.

But if a dash light isn't a $150 problem to you, then no, it's not worth it. See if any locals have one you can borrow/use?

FYI, the tool/program can store 4 cars in it at once. So if you have a friend that also swaps wheels/tires, maybe you guys can split the cost of the tool?

I agree the $150 seems a little pricey up front, but if you plan on owning the car for a while, divide the 150 by the number of years you're going to keep the car, then figure you'll use it twice a year, etc. Say you keep the car for 10 years, you're talking $15 a year to not have an annoying yellow light on the dash.

@tobin is it hard to use? I read throw some threads where people had problems doing it

Not at all. Here is the user manual, read through it. It should give you a better idea of how it works. Very easy to use.

So if I understand correct there are 4 different serial numbers? Is there a way to get them w/o taking the tires off (stock wheels)? And I have a used set of oem frs tpms where do I find the serial number? They are still in the wheels will take them out eventually haha

Just go to americas tire or discount tire where ever you live. I work at one of the shops in California, just take your new set of oem wheel with new sensors (make sure they're on your car) and they'll do the process (tpms relearn protocol) which takes like 5 minutes

Correct, there are four different numbers; one per wheel (there is no sensor in the spare, so it will read 000000). To get the codes from the stock wheels, you just need to plug in the ATEQ to your OBD port and it will read the codes that are stored in the ECU from the factory. The sensor codes for your second pair of sensors should be printed on the sensors themselves. They can also be read at a tire shop without removing the tires with a different tool.

TPMS
 

I can take care of this for you P.M me The atqe is the hard way to do it .



Thanks

I saw something a little while back about clone-able TPMS sensors that you can basically program to report the same serial numbers as the original sensors. That way when you swap wheels the car doesn't know you're using a set of 4 different sensors. Certain tire shops may be capable of doing it, you could probably ask around your local tire shops and see who's heard of it.

What's the easy way? Why keep it a secret?

Go to a tire shop that can pull your senor # off with a tpms tool write them down I can program a new set for you clone them I sale the sensor cheep.Then take them with you when you get your tires and have them in stalled
Like the post before the car will not know you have changed them. The Subaru system will not care where the senor,tire is.

ALLIGATOR sens-it
590902 - Sensor Part Number
590906 - Valve Part Number

http://web.alligator-sensit.com/fron...4_2014_USA.pdf

Prospective BRZ owner here, but in the Evo X world, we usually buy our TPMS sensors as cloneable ones from a vendor that charges a reasonable price.

You go to a tire shop and get them to use a reader on your wheels. You don't need to even take the wheel off. After you get your 4 codes, send it over to this vendor and he'll clone a set of 4 sensors and stems that you can install on your second set of wheels. Works like a charm.

PM for details, the prices are reasonable. Much less than $400, that's for sure.