2JZ Swap Kit?
 

I know its possible to purchase an LS swap kit which includes harness, mounts, driveshaft ect. but is there a 2JZ swap kit that you can purchase?

No swap kit, but you can buy Xcessive mounts for the motor. Non-VVTI, front sump only.

Acutally xcessive makes mounts for vvti 1jz and 2jz blocks as well.

Source: own a set of mounts for my vvti 1jz


But yeah you kind of have to piece everything together and do the wiring yourself at this point

do you know if the stock transmission would mount on?

I hope you're not serious...

For real, if you're asking such noob questions about this swap, this swap is not for you or you've got atleast $25,000 to throw at somebody to do it for you.

Yeah, that's the thing. There's been a bunch of these swaps done for formula D but there's not a ton of info publicly available on those cars. There's only a handful of people on forums and maybe one or two shops in the process of doing this swap, so there's NOBODY to hold your hand. Unless you're comfortable figuring everything out for yourself, don't attempt this swap.

Funny thing. OP just sent me a pm cussing me out ahaha.

Thug life

An engine swap is not a bolt on kiddies.

If you are looking to do a swap like this a lot has to be taken into consideration. Mounts are available, making the trans mount bracket is easy. Now you have to sort out wiring, yes there is an engine harness available for the swap but to do the swap properly there is still a considerable amount of work in that department that needs to be addressed. You will also want to look at your heating and cooling system, the heater core hoses will pose a small but workable issue. In a race car things like heat are not worried about, it gets hot in a race car anyways. Also you will want to look into a proper radiator. Do some digging for other platforms this engine is used in and look at the cooling system issues. Quality fans will be a must, as well as a properly sized radiator. I would also spend some time working on how the airflow enters the radiator area and make sure it goes were it needs to. Now that you have those things sorted you need to look at properly fueling this thing. A typical drop in pump will only support stock injectors. Why go through the trouble of this swap to deal with that limitation. So you will need to factor in a proper fuel system. I could continue on with this list for quite a while. If you are attempting this swap things you need, to be able to do, weld and access to metal working tools, comfortably work with an automotive 12v electrical system and be able to properly read a wiring diagram, good understanding of automotive repair work, ability to properly plumb a fuel system and cooling system, ect.... I will not say this is not a doable swap, as it is completely doable but I will say it is not for the feint of heart.

In b4 photo of rappers in engine compartment.

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...ps2stvxup2.jpg

South of 10k still, will post my cranking/driving videos and final bay shots in about 2-3 weeks. I don't post anything current.

Nice project... Keep it going :) :respekt:

If I swap in a 2JZ, can I use my Borla UEL's?

Sarcasm, right?

What's s borla?

Oh god what is it with people and wanting to swap a 2j everywhere. Yes the 2jz is a great engine but it is also a heavy pos that is over 20years old and the only great transmission to go with it (v160/161) are worth about 1/4 of the car. Just seems dumb unless you are made of money, if you are please send some my way.

Hell I gave up on my lexus is300 swap to a v160 and built na-t as it was starting to run quite high on parts, time and fab work and at that point it was less expensive/more sensical to sell it buy a brz/frs and supercharge the shit out of it (more economical, can be a dd, less headaches).

and OP people are right, unless you know what you are doing or have 20k+ to spend stay away from this swap. I don't have the best mechanical knowledge or skill but I do spend at least 10hrs a week chilling at my buddy's shop and looking at what they work on (learning) so unless you are able to get similar knowledge from an acquaintance and don't mind waiting to do the swap until you've acquired enough knowledge than yeah stay away from that swap.

They aren't telling you not to do it to be a-holes(ok some of them are or at least partially are) but because they don't want you to go down a road where everything is unknown and where it ends up consuming all your time and money.

Golden rule of FI or swap is budget twice the amount you were planning on spending. Just an fyi (cost me over 10k) just in parts for the swap and that isn't counting the small on the fly stuff needed when doing the work. If you can't do the work yourself then add labour and fab work and yeah you're about at 20k and that is for a is300 a car that has a na 2jz stock.

In 3 words: no, just no

Necro a thread just to yell at people? Nice!

You can get the budget accurate if you know what you're doing. But, I do agree with your methodology for most people, because it's true.

I approached my build like it was an 8 figure construction project. From project viability, estimating, project management through out, etc etc. I did this, because that's my 9-5. Certainly overkill, but meh I enjoy doing it, and have done it for my own satisfaction. I could've just committed know it was going to cost $25k thereabouts and not tracked it, but I was interested in tracking it.

I've had overs and unders like any project. The biggest over was needing tubular headers, where as I had only costed to modify the stock ones. (But hearing the sound of the motor because of these headers helps me feel a little better) Biggest unders (well effective unders) were the prices I got for selling my stock parts, which was more than I had anticipated.

My car is running now, but there's a couple more small things to do. One of the OEM strut bars needs modifying slightly. The whiteline strut brace needs another 3mm or so of height. New axles put in. etc. Once that's done I'll do an effective final account and release the final cost reports.

Of course I realise my post is completely worthless for someone looking for a "2JZ swap kit, add to cart" situation.

!All depends on your expectations for the car and its intended use. If you want it to work and drive have no nvh and be just like OEM...I.e. traction control, stability control, ABS and all OEM gauges to work its a ton of engineering and above most every bodies experience level.....If your going with a drift car/track car where none of this matters and have a huge budget or a huge amount of automotive and fab experience, its within reach. The two above comparisons are apple and oranges BTW. Alot of the work is being done now by companies eventually having available swap parts you can buy easing some of the necessary engineering. As far as the FA20...to me its a crap engine not worthy of FI and should be left alone @ 200bhp, If I couldn't swap my car I would of sold it asap. That's just my opinion but I have seen close up the inner workings of the engine paying close attention to a lot of its weakness...poor quality control being one .Stout racing dropped this platform with the FA20 asap after a miserable year of constant engine problems using a Toyota racing developed super charger........This is a good read....what Element Tuning does to make the FA20 reliable.........http://elementtuning.com/competition...r-wrx-fa20dit/

Agreed. Problem is, the people who start these types of threads do not ever fit into any of the categories you mention.

Holy shit did not see it was this old sorry about that. Was actually reading on two different threads with this subject, guess I answered the wrong one.:sigh:

wiring specialties makes some stuff I believe

Do the wiring yourself or pay to have someone do it custom. Do NOT buy a prefab.

It requires more work to fix premade crap harness's then it does to build it properly to begin with.

That's my plan.

I already got some different motor mounts, might have to pick up their trans mount though. Let us know if you pick some up, im intrested to see how sturdy the cx parts are.

With the amount of work they require to have their "kit" fit, you should just go with your own custom mounts. In order to do the mods they're requiring, you should already posses the skills to fabricate your own pieces.

I'm meeting a guy I linked up with through FB. Meeting him at a drift event in KY. He has a 2jz in his FR-S that he did the mounts for. I'll be picking his brain on stuff, so shall see. I know people have used other mounting setups (forget the name of the other companies). I don't think the CXR one is bad looking personally. I wonder to what extent they are involved with the Formula Drift car of Matt Field.

http://omgdrift.com/wp-content/uploa...G_8756-OMG.jpg

Which mounts do you have?

Enjuku racing

Didn't realize they have a mount kit.

**edit, just checked it out. It's the Xcessive motor mount kit that I saw being sold by Enjuku.

Yeah same difference!

It was good meeting you sadly weather was bad and I couldent take you out in the beast..

Hey man...lol. Good to see you here. Yea I'll be sure to meet up with you again, so I can get some 2jz conversion help.

not to hijack this thread but will a k20a2 fit in the twins? I like vtec and I want to use my aem cai, D.C. Headers and greddy evo cat back

Yes.