FA20DIT BRZ @ STOHL RACING
 

http://www.stohl-racing.com/news.php?lang=E
they are official sti motorsport base team -> http://www.sti.jp/en/competitor/BaseTeam/index.html

Could be a prototype? :drool:

http://www11.pic-upload.de/21.12.14/ctk7srj27pju.jpg

*shrug* they may have just snagged an FA20DIT out of a WRX for all we know

D4S > DI when it comes to tuning...

350ps / 520nm before 3000rpm on 100% stock engine with stock internals ;)
And Standard legacy exhaust - only pre-cat removed

More Informations are coming soon here -> https://www.facebook.com/pages/Speed...21882101399227

He is also member here but not activated yet :)

Hi all,

Well that´s about my car then:D

The BRZ has attracted me a lot since it has been released.
Also because of the reason that, due to my job I have quite relation to Subarus.
However, I simply couldn´t be friends witht he 200 hp na under the bonnet.

So quite some while ago, the idea was born to fit in the power plant which I think should have been in the car already at the very beginning.

The latest Subaru 2.0 DI Turbo (FA20DIT).

Said, done..... well not really!
Spent 1/2 year of development, including some serious CAD Job to get that factory boosted piece of alloy into the BRZ.

Yes... cam across all the known topics including:
- Turbo position
- gearbox flange
- starter position
- wiring (BRZ ECU in Car, FA20DIT in engine bay!!!)
- and many smaller details more

BUT, when all of the above topics are handled properly, very nice solution can be found to put that nice little OEM 300 ho and 400 Nm engine into the BRZ.
at this point it has to be stated that there is NO, zero, NOT AT ALL, modifications of the chassis, BRZ OE Loom, bodywork needed apart from drilling a few holes for attaching some bolts.

So the output of that project is a straight plug´n´play solution, which can be reversed to OE D4-S lump in a 1 day job!

That car is the first prototype to run endurance tests and fix the detailed spec of all components.
Based on this, a continuous development is planned (already plenty of optimisation ideas)

Soon the stuff will e made available.

Also it should be said, that we have run that engine (FA20DIT) on the engine dyno with absolutely stock components (even exhaust) as "Harinjo" has mentioned with an output of 352 ps and 521 Nm!!
Imagine what figures will be reached when the there will be more performance components available for the DIT!

So, what´s your opinion?
I´m extremely interested in your feedback.
Comment, discuss, ask, critisize... whatever is on your mind re that car
:burnrubber:

one pic here:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.n...ef44d47a83a7cf
https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.n...43793961_o.jpg

its awesome that you got it to fit. But other than drilling a few holes for bolts, plug n play?

How did you guys address the issues mentioned, and still can give the description "Plug n Play"?

Well, that´s why it took some time to solve it.
Of course you´ll understand that I won´t give you the details yet:D

When used with all components from speedheads, it´s deffinitely plug´n´play!!!
That was one of the major targets.
(which doesn´t mean that it isn´t been working on a bad ass version already!:D)

PS: even the window washer tank hasn´t got to be removed :party0030:

Can´t wait to do the first run (currently waiting for the final electric adaptor looms, shall be delivered middle of january)

will keep you updated!!

Outstanding. Looking forward for more updates. :thumbsup:

With folks breaking everything behind the engine with a stock FA20, what are you experiencing with the additional power this engine produces?

Quote:
Originally Posted by themadscientist http://www.ft86club.com/forums/third...s/viewpost.gif
With folks breaking everything behind the engine with a stock FA20, what are you experiencing with the additional power this engine produces?

I´ll be able to answer that topic at a later time.
The test phase in the car is still to be done.

Of course, when having the possibility to squeeze out 521 Nm, the question: "and what about the tranny?" is absolutely appropriate!!

There are some ideas about that topic also, but that´s still uite far off.
First next step is to validate the function of the conversion kit, and finalize the parts line-up and spec.
There do exist some solutions to have reinforce the transmission, so that topic is currently not ranked on the top of the TODO list for me.

This is pretty awesome. Thanks for taking the time to work it out.

That's pretty cool. Let us know how it drives!

Subbed.

The details on this conversion would benefit us all.

Subbed!

Nice work. Looking forward to more details.

They need to put the dit in the brz/frs from the factory. No way in Heck I'd be able to pass a fa20dit swap in california.

It sure seems that there would be a market for an frs/brz with a turbo fa20 from the factory...sure it would be 5-8k more, but some people are dropping that kind of coin right after they buy the car anyway

So the starter doesn't fit like I said. The turbo doesn't fit like I said and the intercooler doesn't fit like I said. So you end up buying another engine and fabricating most of a turbo kit to swap this in. Then as fullblown and several other shops have already seen the fa20dit cannot make the same amount of power as the fa20 with a turbo. Fa20dit tops out under 400whp. The di injectors simply won't flow anymore than that. This seems like a complete waste.

Oem Starter and oem turbo fits without cutting anything ;)

California law allows you to swap in any engine certified for street use as long as it is from the same weight class + is the same model year or newer, and also certified for street use in California.

The assumption is that a newer engine would have needed to pass more stringent smog standards.

http://www.arb.ca.gov/msprog/aftermkt/replace.htm

-alex

Well thats good news. Now to see exactly how much this "PnP" kit and engine will cost :P

If you do go this route, you'd need to get the car recertified at a BAR referee station, and you will get a sticker on your firewall that would tell a smog technician that your engine is swapped.

I should note that 1) you can swap to an engine with a higher emissions standard but not lower (i.e. you can swap a car engine into a truck, but not the other way around), and 2) safe to say, you are on your own for drivetrain warranty purporses.

I know a few 240SX guys who have done a street-legal, certified LS1 swaps this way.

-alex

They said the turbo hit. The starter and exhaust are also on the wrong side so how did they fix that?

Where does it actually say the turbo hit? Are you reading beyond what is said or looking at the information given?

Obviously the TMIC has not been carried over as can be seen.
However, with a different hood (with scoop) also the OE IC should be possible to fit!
Aprt from this point, at this stage I will not go into detail what exactly fits without mods, what not, and further what has been done to make it PnP.

Soon enough, more details about these topics will be revealed of course.
Until then, everybody who wants to find it out in detail will have to check it by himself.

However, as stated before, there is no need for any custom fabrication to be processed apart from some simple holes being drilled for mounting.
Everybody with average mechanic skills can process the conversion!!

When saying that the DIT cannot make more power than just below 400, you are comparing apples with pears.
The Fa20s running 400 hp have been upgraded with a turbo kit, plus in depth hardware mods. The DIT gets 350+ in an absolutely bone stock specification!!!
What keeps you away from adding a secondary port injection to the DIT?
Than you have a port(DI system much more powerful than in FA20.
Higher rate of DI possible => better vaporisation of fuel, better combustion chamber cooling, more homogenic mixture in chamber => more total output possible.
With a proper turbo and forged internals that engine would easily withstand 500-600 bhp.
No need for a 6k$ block-only

And just for the notes:
Fa20 with 400 whp has an output increase of 100% over std!!

DIT with such a power is at exactly 33,3...% increase !
Do the maths what that means for reliability when driven hard.

And there´s no word about torque BTW, which, especially when looking at the strength of the hardware, is much more important.
What mods are needed in the FA20 to withstand 520 Nm?
DIT => NONE!!!

Further, having an engine easily capable of doing 200k miles with 340 whp (as this is what you easily and safely get from a remapped DIT), while to get this out from a FA20 you have to dig in deep already (no words about aftermarket forged pistons, or mass production factory fitted engine.. wuality/daily usability).

Another point: the FA20DIT is definitely the future base for
a) high power Subarus as e.g. next gen WRX STIs etc.
b) also most likely the future for various works motorsport programs
it IS the successor of the EJ engines!

....so you can imagine how much developments there will be coming out for that powerplant.

true, maybe with the existing and available components still FA20 > DIT!
But DIT is at the complete beginning!
In the next years this will change dramatically and further will result that DITs will kick ass of any FA20 in the future :party0030:

So anybody can judge by himself, how "completely waste" this is, to put in a factory boosted engine, which starts at 300 hp and 400 Nm (which much more important than the power by the way....) compared to the n/a FA20 with practically close to no torque at all.


Guys, give it some time.
First the validation of the system (and sure some optimisation of specs/designs) will be carried out.
As soon as this is completed, the price topic will also be fixed soon.

Of course the cost topic has been kept in mind from the very beginning!
That´s also why the installation of the kit without any mods on the car was put on a high priority.

Also, you´ll end up in having your complete FA20 for sale ;)
And as that´s such a great and desired engine, it´ll sell for a lot:D

Where can you buy a FA20DIT anyway? lol

You get one for free when you purchase a 2015 WRX.

:D:D:D

From what I've seen there is no difference in the two engines DI system. Maxx ed out on e85 no one has been able to make much power without adding the fa20 PI system. So enlighten me. The only advantage I see here is the ability to use the oil pump gear from the fa20dit. Since it can't be adapted due to a diffrent cover.
Reliability? I have 14,000 miles at 400wtq on the stock engine. I'll keep my 12.5:1 over the fa20dit lower compression anyday. Low compression bis for people with shirt fuel.

Very funny thing about the DI system.
Everybody seems to think that the system is quite the same.
It definitely isn´t.
There is substantial difference in the DI systems.
Both the DI pump and Injectors flow significantly more than the D4-S System (I´ll not give you the numbers please understand)

Further as you state "from what I´ve seen", you didn´t ahve a deep look into the DIT did you?

But honestly, even w/o having a close look. Did you really assume that a 200 hp mixed injection DI system has the same spec like a 300 hp full DI?

why couldn't you???
 

What on earth would be stopping you from passing a fa20dit swap?

Jaden

I wasn't well versed on the engine replacement laws @ the ARB.

re E85 that needs quite a lot more flow by itself because of it´s stoichiometric ratio (9,85 E85 to 14,7 gasoline), so maybe a bad example for comparison.

think again about relation CR/boost taking in consideration the IC and it´s thermodynamic function. It makes sense that boosted engines have a lower CR.

At this point again: std DIT can put down 521 Nm of torque just below 3000 rpm.
Quite impressive I think and let´s one assume a not so badly chosen CR.

Are you trying to quote me? I don't use pump gas never will. I'll never lower my cr in this motor. I'll take pi/di and 12:1 over that lower compression di only version any day. That's alot of money for an inferior engine and turbo.

By the way I make more torque than you on a stock engine. Guess my cr isn't that bad.

The greatest appeal of the fa20dit to me, is a factory turbo.

Personally, I'd take a factory turbo over any aftermarket turbo set-up for reliability.

No additional tuning, or anything. A fa20dit, operating under normal conditions at factory settings and output is all I could even want in my BRZ.

Plus, You will NEVER smog an aftermarket turbo in California.

I just realized something... this kit may alter one or more mounting points, including relocating intercooler.

If that's the case, most likely as-is it won't pass BAR unless the parts can be made CARB-exempt.

It's such a niche market that most likely @Speedhead won't bother trying to get it certified... but given that the engine needs to be out of same MY or newer car, anyone wanting a completely certified, street-legal DIT swap in California would need to get over the hump of trying to find a complete engine for sale for no less than $7k+.

At that price point I'd consider turboing the factory FA20 D4S first.

-alex

While the dit would be nice...
 

That's why if I do a swap in Cali, it will be with a same MY or newer camaro ss from a wrecked camaro. That way I will have the rear end, all the suspension and even the front clip if I decided to REALLY get crazy...

Later on for less than 10K I could even add an e force supercharger for 600hp...

I've done some of the preliminary measurements and the entire rear end should be able to be bolted on with some fabbed up adapter plates although some body work would be needed and probably a wide body kit or rocket bunny of some type to use the wheels from the camaro.

But those BIG BRAKES.....:wub:

Jaden

Ebay ... :party0030: ... http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_f...0+dit&_sacat=0