IS IT NORMAL
 

For your car to sit at 1 rpm when you push in clutch at speed? (Like it won't drop to idle (0.7 to 0.6) untill you come to a fully stop?

Also does turning on the air make the car go from 0.7 rpms to 1 and slowly back down or is this not normal?

Well 1 rpm is never normal!
If you add 000 or 00 to the rest of what you said it is all perfectly normal and nothing to worry about at all.
At speed you are just not holding the clutch in long enough (and don't it is not a good thing to free wheel too much).
The AC compressor kicks in and out and causes the fluctuation.

first manual transmission car?

I have never held the clutch in while coasting, I think it may be extra wear on the throw bearings, so not sure. Just don't do that and there will be no problem =D

Yes when parked w/ the AC on my tachometer behaves in the same way. Components of the AC must be belt driven, turn off for max SPD

I love noticing these types of intimate details. :barf:

Yeah, first car in general. Had asked my dad and he said he thought it wasn't normal (he owns a passat v6 manual, 2002 though)

normal. hes talking about when you push the clutch in in between gears. yeah it drops to 1 (im assuming you mean x1000) or something.

If you are dropping your revs to 1000 between gears you are not driving this car right!

Neither you nor your dad understand why you do what you do when you drive your manual car. That's ok, but if you read up on what is happening when you engage the clutch pedal, shift gear, release clutch pedal, and how your engine builds power, most of these types of questions will be answered before you even think of asking them.

I'm not talking I drop it to 1000 while actually driving but if you hold the clutch I thought it should go to idle not 300 above idle


I guess I didn't write the Op right. I meant hold it in at speed not just pushing and shift (obviously I'm not dropping to 1000 to just shift. I wouldn't get anywhere!)

I dont, but im assuming he hold clutch and lets it drop or something weird, seems like a new manual driver?:iono: im just saying if he WERE to do that it would drop to right about there before he shifts, maybe a bit higher

edit: but yeah this guys right, O.P. you should be shifting much quicker and definitely not waiting for the RPMs to drop anywhere near that low before you shift. Practice in a large parking lot..

Yes. It will not idle when pushing the clutch in at speed. It's not designed too. You also shouldn't do that.

you shouldn't be "holding it in at speed"

Throw down the clutch and shift, essentially after gear 2-3 you can basically pop the clutch as you're shifting... you dont need to baby it.

He's talking about when coming to a stop, not when shifting!

Yes it's normal, I don't know why it's like that but my truck does the same thing, my guess is if have to let the clutch out in an emergency it shouldn't stall right away but rather chug, which could save you from being hit.

What about these?
http://www.paulrhayes.com/experiment...secondHand.png

Well yes, certainly, but those are usually (always?) powered by a motor not an engine.
Be a total bitch trying to set the timing on a one rpm engine!!!!!

Just have to be really patient. :D

Almost every fuel injected car has a high-idle or rpm offset triggered by a VSS threshold. This is completely normal. Offsets are usually in the 300 rpm range with thresholds around 5 to 7 mph.

Regardless of clutch position, under the VSS threshold you should only see base idle (+/- accessory rpm offsets). If you're rolling with the car out of gear faster than 5 - 7 mph, you should see base idle + the high-idle rpm offset.

Why?

So if you find yourself coasting out of gear at 30 mph (for example), accessories still work, power steering has pressure, alternator still charges, etc.

Short answer: your car is perfectly normal.

I think you're stating that after taking the foot off the gas, engine does not immediately return to normal idle speed....like 750rpm.

I cannot seem to find the proper answer online, yet having previously been an auto tech and a person who did smog checks in Calif., I'd say this:

If an engine returns from high rpm to idle speed too quickly, that will cause temporary high emissions output...unburned hydrocarbons mostly. A delay in that return to idle speed helps produce fewer emissions. These days, the auto engines computers are programmed to accomplish this automatically.

As for a/c: Engaging the clutch of an a/c compressor, starting action of that compressor, puts a load on the engine. Computer knows to raise the idle speed temporarily so that engine will not stall.

Running through every single gear to come to a complete stop would be wear on every aspect of the clutch.

I coast with my clutch disengaged sometimes because of city driving.
Drivers can be erratic so it's not far fetch to have to go
Sixth gear>clutch in(coast as moron in front of me is lost) fifth>fourth>third(moron turns) >clutch out>accelerate
During that my RPMS are always at 1000.

OP if your clutch wasn't disengaged you would feel it in your foot. And probably hear it depending on how much is still engaged.

In the fr-s I switch gears at 3.5 when cruising and when racing around about 5k rpms. Feel like the power band is around 4-5 depending on speed.

This is confusing to me. Why would you go down through the gears as though downshifting but without letting the clutch out?

I would either actually downshift or put it in neutral and coast until time to go again. (FWIW, I'm no expert but I have driven sticks for almost 30 years, without damaging or prematurely wearing out any of them.)

I do the same thing. Just so you're ready and in the right gear when it's go time.

Edit: But yeah a real downshift would be ideal I just can't heel toe yet. *blush awkwardly*

Exactly. I would not want to coast in neutral at any time as I have had to avoid things in the past and wanted the power then not in 2 more seconds.

I don't find it a problem to go from coasting in neutral to in the correct gear under power in very short order.

If you think about it, the only difference to what is described above is I'd be letting the clutch out and not doing these "phantom" shifts that mostly result in nothing happening. You still have to do the same thing I'd do and pick which gear to be in based on your speed. At most you save the time to clutch in and pick a gear. Just seems like extra motion for nothing most of the time.

I guess a lot of my habits come from the training I had as an army truck driver. The truck was always in some gear while moving. You ever got caught "free wheeling" in neutral you could expect a stern lecture at best and extra duties at worst. Same with traveling with the clutch in, anything more then a few feet when coming to a stop was a no no.
The theory being that if something happened and you had to maneuver the transmission was already in gear so it was just gas and go, not shift gas and go. That split second shifting from neutral could make the difference in a bad situation. I know that doing this saved my bacon more than once over the years.
Not for a second saying my way is right or wrong, it is just what I was trained for and is habit now. I doubt if I could force myself to actually coast in neutral even if I wanted too after driving the way I have for 40 years.

Damn. OP, your car is fucked. I'd go to the dealer and demand a new car.

I think we scared him away!!!!!
Would pay money to see service writer's face when he walked in and said "my car only drops to 1rpm when I push in the clutch"
Good luck getting them to duplicate that statement for warranty work!

Be he gets good mileage, though.

I THINK YOU JINXED ME MAN!!!! ran over a deer today..

No fucking way! OMG, that SUX! Are you alright?

Over a deer? I would have a hard time going over a squirrel!
Much damage?

Yeah, I'm not saying either way is right or wrong either, just trying to understand the logic. But, I think the part in your post I bolded above is different than what was stated that confused me.

The post I commented on was talking clutch in -> go down 2, 3, or 4 gears -> clutch out. To me, if you are taking the time to slow down enough to go from 6th to 3rd or so, that's more than a few feet when coming to a stop.

It also sounds like what you describe w/ the Army truck is essentially downshifting without matching revs, in essence the truck slowed enough while you were shifting to the next gear down that the revs were already pretty close to tranny speed when you let the clutch back out. Am I reading that right?

Exactly! These types of threads can confuse the hell out of me because what originally gets said turns out to be a simple miss phrase and wasn't what the poster meant at all.

The reasoning is exactly as Tcoat said. To have the car in a proper gear in case of an impending accident.

Did you know it is illegal to coast in neutral in most states? For that very reason

I'm 50 so right in between you and Tcoat. Not ashamed to admit this is a technique I've learned recently. Mechanically, it makes perfect sense. Even if not double-clutching, it's still easier on the syncros to match up from the next higher gear instead of skipping gears.

I humbly admit I've been doing it wrong until recently. I've always been nice to the driveline but never really considered it from a defensive driving perspective. Still working on changing my habits. Gonna take some time but if it helps avoid a single collision, it will have been worth it.

OP, learn to rev-match downshift (no heel toe necessary). It's smoother, fun, and it sounds good!

Speaking of which, I've nailed rev matching downshifts (this is my first manual) and want to move on to heel-toe. Someone told me that it can't be done on a stock ECU, as the FR-S will not accept throttle input with the brake applied. Is this BS?

I actually do. Just started like a week ago

Ya, truck in front of me hit it and luckily the son of a bitch was down or it would have been worse. Still drivable but front lip is screwed and radiator is pushed in and just one little paint chip on the hard stuff. 2500 miles.... ;( repair shop doesn't have an opening till the 23rd fml...

I really think you should read the tachometer more carefully.

http://autospotters.com/_pictures/Sc...3/DSC00952.jpg

whatever number you see needs to be multiplied by 1000.

Makes what you have to say easier to understand, and reduces the amount of troll posts.

Also improves your automotive knowledge vastly.

-alex