Blocking Your TPMS Light
 

I wonder wont it be easier to disable TMPS via software ?
on my VW for example I used VCDS and disabled TMPS sensors,
so I can only imagine something similar can be done on Subarus ?

Mods, please sticky this!

No need for a sticky it's in the directly which is already a sticky.

Darren, can the white housing be separated? If so you can just remove the bulb which would be cleaner IMO.

Excellent write up. Althought I think I'll just be living Witt the light or buying the sensors.

Way too much work for outcome.

I tried to separate the gauge cluster to remove the light, but to do that you need to pull all the needles, pull the dial face off and access the screws underneath it. I gently tugged on one needle to see if it would come off easily and it didn't. I feared that I would damage the cluster by removing the needles, so I went this route instead.

russv: wait until you have that yellow light flashing in your face for a few days and then see if this ten minutes of work is worth it! I think you'll change your mind.

The last time I pulled off my needles I used 2 plastic spoons... Just a thought for the next person that tries this.

bravo for the effort and documenting that. But holy crap I'm not that brave with taking apart my dash :)

meh.

http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forum...ystem-tpms.jpg

Or just get sensors put in your new wheels. Much easier :)

Too bad that won't work. The sensors need to be awake which requires motion, not pressure. This isn't a Toyota Tundra :)

Yes.. and $400 from Tire Rack plus dealership charge to reprogram them since the ATEQ tools and such don't work yet.

I've been driving on mine since yesterday and the light still hasn't come on, I guess my driving has all been under the threshold for the system to complain, but still, I've driven with CELs for years so the little fishbowl light isn't going to bother me :)

The mod only took about 10 minutes, was like five screws and is completely reversible. I'm not sure why people are freaking out about it!

I think it looks straightforward enough. Hopefully it can be disabled via software but if not I'll save the 400 dollars on my winter rims and use the tape.

Rats.

I'm usually very very adamant about not upsetting safety features, but the TPMS system is designed for people that never check tire pressue. The same type of people that go 3 years without an oil change.

Thanks for the write-up Darren!

You're welcome!

Good write up!

You cant switch the sensors over to the new wheels? One of these days when I get new wheels I'll look into that.

When you had that thing out did you see a part number for the clear plastic in front of the tach? I may need to replace mine due to letting my son sit in the car and he scratched it with his baby nails. :mad0259:

You can but that doesn't work for those who have/want/need two sets. They have to be rebuilt as well when moving them I believe.

Ah, that's right. I completely forgot about that.

They're relatively easy to take apart. I've had to do it numerous times before when I was working at the dealer. But I have access to a tire machine so I guess that doesn't apply to everyone.

Sorry, I didn't look for the part number. You can probably have your parts department look it up, but good luck getting parts right now. There aren't many in stock yet.

Thanks for that. I'm sure it will save others some time. It took a day for my light to activate, and it's solid, not flashing so far. I'm not too bothered now, but if it does start to flash, I may use some tape on the outside of the cluster lens until a software solution is available. Tire Rack has a database on which states will fail your inspection for a TPMS idiot light. All hail the nanny state.

YOWSA!! That much, seriously? There will be a cheaper setup/solution down the road I hope!

Was it ever confirmed if having a TPMS light on affected the disabling of traction or stability control?

Like I posted in bold red words at the top of the first post, traction control is unaffected. :)

I have worked for Discount Tire Co. for 4 years now. If you purchased a new set of wheels there are rebuild kits for our FRS/BRZ's sensors. At any DTC we can swap the sensors for much less than a dealer and programming is not necessary from what i have found so far. Like all toyota's,Subaru's unless you are replacing a damaged sensor with a replacement Schrader or Dill sensor they Auto relearn to the vehicle.

So there should be no need for going to any dealer and over paying for this. I had my FRS on a lift today checking clearance to order wheel's and tires and was speaking with our dept on just such a matter.

For example during rotations there is no need to relearn the sensors to the new positions on the vehicle. Just the same when installing new wheels and swaping sensors over there is no need to relearn.

Hope this helps :)

Programming was mentioned for those who want two sets of wheels. Having two sets of sensors will require programming t least once. Hopefully the system will hold two sets of sensors.

Thanks for the detailed write up! how about some result pics in the day and night, is it 100% perfectly fixed?

I wonder if you remove the needles like you do in the TC, have you been able to remove the Ac panel?

Actually, at night there is a BARELY BARELY BARELY glow that escapes around the tape that I inserted. I can only notice it if I stick my nose right in there and focus... so essentially it is a 99% perfect job but the tiny amount of light that escapes isn't enough to be noticed.

So you think it goes around the tape? could a larger piece fir without interference and was the tape totally stuck onto the bulb side or only wedged in?

+100000000 for shade tree reference I loved that show as a kid.

Yeah, I didn't really make my tape perfect, but when I say it barely shines through I am talking that it is SO dim that it is almost completely impossible to see it, even in total darkness. The tape was only wedged into the bulb cavity. I'm sure that someone could think of something better to push in there that might fill the cavity a little more perfectly.

Here is a photo of the cluster after blocking the light.

http://i48.tinypic.com/21a6c4.jpg

Can you reach the LEDs from the back? Or would that require further disassembly? I feel like pulling the light could be a viable solution as well...

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