AVO turbo kit installation help/tips
 

So after looking around I've decided to get an AVO Stage 1 turbo kit, and will be installing it myself. I've also downloaded the instruction manual and after going through it a few times, I think it lacks some details. It might not be an issue for experienced mechanics, but could be somewhat confusing for first timers.

Apart from the basic oil and mechanical work, my DIY modding experience to date has been a couple of spring installs, coilover install, front pipe and catback installs, and a full Brembo conversion. So fitting a turbo kit will be far more involved and complex that anything I've done on the car.

I've found a few installation tips by reading up other people's build threads, but the reason for this thread is to bring together the collective experiences of those who have installed the AVO turbo kit, and also those who have expertise in fitting/installing other kits.

Hopefully the tips and information gathered in this thread can assist the average DIY guy (like myself) to get through the process and iron out the finer details of installation that is not covered in the instruction manual.

If you have any particular tips you'd like to share, I'd appreciate if you could identify which step of the process this belongs to in reference to the instruction manual.

Steps 1-12:
I think the front bumper and side signal removal are pretty straight forward, plus there are numerous threads on this already.

Steps 13-16:
It seem simple enough, but can someone please provide more details on how to get the fittings in using that tool? What do you call that tool anyway? If someone has a better idea on how to install the FMIC without taking off the bumper that would be even better!!!

Step 22:
What do they mean by "slot the hold for the bracket at the back?"

Steps 31-32:
How difficult is it to line up the pump with the ridges when working from top? Because you can't really see inside that hole and you'll only be working by feel. What silicone would you use for this area? Red RTV or Ultra Copper? And what is the recommended torque spec here?

Step 33:
Once the oil line is fitted, where would you clamp the line 'brackets/guides' to?

Step 41:
What is the recommended torque when refitting O2 sensors?

Step 44:
Does the shorted water line go straight to the banjo fitting on the turbo?

Step 45:
Does the longer water line go straight to the other banjo fitting on the turbo?

Step 47:
What metal spacer are they referring to? The same type as shown in Step 61?

Step 49:
Makes no sense to me. Picture shows heat shield attachment, but they talk about tapping into something. Tap into what? Where? What push in fittings?

Step 51:
Good tip from AVO but not mentioned in manual...if using thicker gaskets from Grimmspeed, be sure to add spacers between the engine block and the bracket so that there's no unwanted stress on the other flange welds.

Step 56:
If using an AVO breather, would the breather hose from the reservoir go directly to the engine oil cap replacement part that comes with the breather kit?

Step 58:
When fitting the BOV, where do I connect the small vacuum hose to? Do I cut and make a T-connection on the hose that runs from the brake booster to the top rear of intake manifold?

Step 59 is redundant.


Some useful tips gathered from other forum members:
- Double check all nuts and bolts on kit for tightness prior to assembly.
- Use better quality t-bolt clamps for intercooler hoses.
- Use better quality injector clamps for turbo coolant lines.
- Use liquid thread sealant on oil line fittings.
- Use hairspray when fitting air hoses, as it acts as lubricant and dries up to a mild adhesive.

Perhaps @AVOturboworld might be able to chime in with some pointers?

I haven't ever installed an AVO kit, so I can't speak to the steps, but here are some tips:

The side turn signals are not actually that easy to remove. They are held in with metal clips that like to come off the side signal and go flying when you pull them out. It will take considerable force to pull them out. Also those metal clips need to be properly installed and provide proper tension when reinstalling them or your side turn signals won't sit properly.

Gutentite is the proper torque spec. You probably won't have an O2 sensor socket or a way to properly torque it, so just go with good and tight. I would also place some anti-seize on the threads to make sure they come out the next time you want to remove them.

A T connection on the hose to the brake booster will work just fine for a BOV as long as it is before the check valve in that line. Place the T closer to the back of the intake manifold then to the brake booster.

That tool is a Rivnut tool. It works by screwing into the rivnut, which is then pushed into the mounting hole. You then squeeze the handles to expand the rivnut, and so fix it in the hole - providing a threaded insert in a blind hole. There is absolutely no way to fit the inter-cooler without removing the front bumper.

It's called a rivet nut tool. You can find them at many hardware stores, or at harbor freight stores.
As an example: http://www.grainger.com/product/5JK71


Sorry, that was a typo. Should be Hole, not Hold. You need to slot the hole on the water tank mounting bracket so that it can slide down a bit further.

It's not that difficult. In fact, until you line it up, you won't be able to get it in. One method is to lightly insert the top of the clip to the camshaft clip and rotate it till the pump is lined up with the holes.

It's hard to see on the photo, but there is two large bolts on either side of the transmission (that bolts it to the engine) that you can use.

Should be the same as factory spec.

Yes to both. It doesn't matter which direction the water flows.

No, there was a metal spacer and grommet that was between the air box mount and the car mounting spot. Bolt the AVO pipe directly to the car mounting spot with the grommet between it and the air box. Or just discard the grommet and bolt them all down solid. The main thing is to not have the grommet between the pipe and the mount to the car, this will allow the pipe to swing around a bit at the bottom, which could cause it to hit the water pump.

That's a slightly older guide. Here is the current text:
49. Unbolt the grounding strap and mount the heat shield with the grounding strap between it and the body, and bolt it down there and at the bracket.

Yes.

Yes, that is one of the recommended methods.

Take your time with the oil pump install. It can get very messy really quickly unless you take your time. Also, you should use Toyota FIPG for it
http://artsautomotive.com/classic/Fl...aFIPGBlack.jpg

Make sure you torque the header onto the engine gradually and in a crisscross type pattern. Do not over-torque the nuts either. I think the torque value is 25ish ft-lbs? It may not seem like much, but it's enough. You may also want to use stud lock nuts so they don't back off. I would also suggest re-torquing the header nuts a few times after you've run the car and heated everything up.

I bought a rivnut tool specifically for the intercooler install but found out it wasn't big enough when it came time to use it. I ended up using the DIY bolt/nut/washer method. There's lots of info on Youtube that explains how to do it.

Aside from that, everything else is pretty straight forward.

Step 14 of the instruction manual shows two different sized rivet nuts. Do we just choose whichever one fits the hole on the crash beam?

We can't get this locally, well at least my local Toyota parts center guy didn't know what the heck it was. He just recommended Permatex Ultra Grey. What do you think?

Any particular type you recommend? Was thinking of using Nord Lock washers on the header nuts.

Something like this? Yea I was thinking of doing it this way. I reckon there should be just enough space to tackle it this way without having to remove the front bumper.
http://s27.postimg.org/z7370piir/200...Rivet_tool.jpg


By the way I also found this interesting rivnut tool that allows you to work in tight spaces....so this could also work with the bumper on. But looks like it only takes up to M6 (1/4-20) sized rivets. What size is the rivet provided by AVO?
http://s28.postimg.org/fz6l9cyot/IMG_2212.jpg
http://s28.postimg.org/lypqz9u3h/dsc_0828.jpg
http://s28.postimg.org/bnde6m2e5/dsc_0834.jpg

I guess I'll find out if these techniques work once I start installing the kit. Removing the front bumper will be my last resort :D

Motor is a Subaru motor. Go there and get Fujibond for all your oiled mating surfaces. Worked great on my oil pan.

I just finished this step and can concur!

I would rehearse it a few time without and sealant applied. I if you have access to a lift I found that you have a better angle on these parts if your underneath the car and that exhaust pipe is removed.

This answer sucks. It's correct and not helpful at all. All of the torque specifications could easily be listed within AVO's install manual. Looking up all of these values as I'm going thru the steps makes this a much longer installation then it should be...

^^ I agree. Shouldn't they have all the torque specs detailed during the engineering of the kit?

You guys have a torque wrench that will fit on an O2 sensor??

Sorry wasn't referring specifically to the O2 sensors, but the install manual in general. Would have been much better if they included all the specs there so we don't have to go searching elsewhere.

Particularly the torque specs for the flanges on the turbo manifold. Say if we wanted to do pre-install checks on the nuts, or after replacing blown gaskets...

There is an O2 sensor socket that has a cut in it to get it over the wires and then has a spot for the torque wrench to connect that will allow you to torque it, but you have to make adjustments to the values due to the fact it isn't a normal socket and the wrench attachment point is offset. Here is a pic:

http://blog.bavauto.com/wp-content/u...2009/11/51.jpg

With that being said, I really wouldn't torque down an O2 sensor. Apply anti-seize and use gutentite.

Are you referring to removing the plastic bumper, or the metal crash beam (that the intercooler mounts to)? If it is the former, I do not see how you will be able to get the intercooler on, and feed through the pipes etc. with the plastic bumper still on. Removing it is not a big deal, as long as you are careful you can get it off and back on again without any problems. I must have had mine on and off half a dozen times or more, without any issues.

Yeah was referring to the plastic bumper. That's my biggest concern as I've seen others who have removed their front bumper before and ended up with unsightly gaps between the fender and bumper (near the side signal area).

The kit is Impossible to install with the front bumper in place. If you do some searching there's a few other members who have some possible solutions. It's a problem I'll be facing soon and I'll make sure to touch base and let you know how it goes...

Thanks. I've removed the under tray and had a good look around trying to find (im)possible solutions. Basically we're removing the bumper because the crash bar needs to come off to fit the fmic. But from what I could tell, there appears to be just enough space from below to fit the rivnuts in using the nuts, washers and bolt technique. Once the rivnut fittings are in place you just need to bolt the intercooler on. There's also sufficient space to route the fmic pipes behind the foglamp covers into engine bay. Might need small hands though :D

The other reason for removing the bumper is to gain access to the water tank so that you can remove it temporarily. Again, from my observation, you can get plenty of access to that area by removing the wheel well splash guards. Then squeeze a socket in there to undo the top bolt holding the water tank, lift it out slightly, and enlarge the resting hole with a dremel or suitable tool.

Don't flame me, but I think it's worth giving it a shot...

No worries pal! It's a free internet and you're welcome to do what ever you like! :D

Honestly you're going to have you hands full with all of the other details of this kit. Don't underestimate it.

I'm doing both the turbo and and oil cooler so it's makes far more sense for me to remove the bumper. After this install has simmered the body shop will end up removing the bumper to fix something and then after they are done I'm going to be removing it again to mess around with my OEM HIDS....