Do you drive an Exedy Stg. 2 Clutch? Come in and share your experience.
 

There are a number of Exedy Stg. 2 Clutch owners that are experiencing issues with their clutch behavior. Some even have reinstalled it thinking it was an issue with install, but clutch issues have come back.

Please share:
Miles on clutch
Break in per Exedy recommendations? Yes or No
Miles when issue started.
Describe issue.

Also share if you don't have any issues and how many miles on it.

Me:

Miles on Clutch 2k
Issue started at 1800 miles
Religiously followed Exedy break in procedure.
Randomly getting locked out of first gear and/or reverse when fully stopped.

I personally know 6 owners (from Orlando area and South FL) who have the clutch and have the same issue.

I don't know anyone who has the clutch but hasn't had the issue creep up at some point.

List:
@Sportsguy83
@marcoaferrer
@alpine
@midnight23
@mhiscott (Clutchmaster clutch, same issue)
Paul from Orlando
Dustin from Melbourne
Dustin from South FL (Twoo different Exedy 2 clutches same issue, starting to do it again after re-greasing the input shaft)
@jabbathewhat
@mkivsoopra
@qtwre
@FrX same issue Exedy Stg. 1
@jher
@Draco_PR23

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Great I just installed this clutch. Haha. No issues yet, adjusted the pedal a bit because the engagement point was too low. It's a little chattery in 1st, but I expected that with the design. The clutch seems to grab really nicely however, so we will see how it goes.

The interesting thing is, I got my clutch from Chris at SBD a couple months ago when he imported a few from canada. My box and packaging was different then another exedy stage 2 clutch that a customer bought and I installed Friday. They looked physically the same minus a different pilot bearing, but I'm curious if there is something else different I couldn't see. The customer bought it from ft86speed factory, so I'm assuming it is the newer clutch shipment.

It will be interesting to see how it plays out now because we both are at around the same power level with the same turbo kit.

Miles on clutch: 1500~
Break in per Exedy recommendations? Yes
Miles when issue started: a bit after break in? i can't remember really. I had the same issue with my previous clutch before I broke a tooth off of it.
Describe issue: same as @Sportsguy83

A local owner installed one with the older box (gray) and there have been other three locals including me that got the latest box (purple?), But we all have the same issue :(

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Dumb question but did you re-adjust your clutch pedal at all?

Don't mean to insult you'd just be surprised that something so small can be overlooked..

Not allowing you to smoothly engage reverse and first gear sounds a lot like the clutch not being fully disengaged.

Yes, adjusted on install and after break in period.

Clutch did not do it for first 1800 miles. Just started doing it now.

The thing that jumps to me as a design issue, is that I personally know 6 people that have the same clutch installed and have the same issue at some point and have read of 2 or 3 in forum with the same issue.

@ImperiousRex have this issue?

@qtwre

This same issue is happening with all the aftermarket clutches it seems. What clutches have you had? ACT, Exedy and Clutchmasters?

How was the ACT?

I'm going to point Clutchmasters towards these threads when I send mine in for RMA. The aftermarket guys have to be getting something wrong with the clutch design on these cars...

I have had CM, Exedy TD and Exedy Stg. 2.

The CM FX300/400 did not do it. On some rare ocasions it might have gotten harder to get into gears, but never got locked out, or even close. It was just "a little bit" harder to go into gears. I drove that for about 3-5K miles.

The Twin disk did not do it, but only drove it through break in period.

Then Stg. 2. Saw my friends who drive the car more than me have the issue, then slowly saw mine approaching it until a week ago, it finally locked me out of reverse and first.....

So extremely annoying. I'm going to warranty this with Exedy and get a different brand. Still looking at options and haven't decided which one.

Possible the pressure plate forks are being overextended and bending? Being over engaged causing them to fatigue? Maybe the pedal needs a littl emore scrutiny with its adjustment, or possibly a new slave cylinder with less travel?

I have a clutch stop and the pedal was adjusted carefully to be low, in order to prevent overextending the PP but not extremely low as to prevent PP engaging.

the problem doesnt have to do with the pedal its self. whats happening is drag. the friction disk isnt moving freely enough on the input shaft. it seems that the tolerances are so tight between the spline hub and input shaft that even when the splines are properly greased the friction disk still has trouble moving freely. once any amount of dust starts to collect on the shaft disengagement becomes difficult.

Lets get this straight from the very beginning so people don't suggest the same solutions over and over again.

THIS PROBLEM HAS NO RELATION TO CLUTCH PEDAL ADJUSTMENT

There has to be a problem with the actual manufactured product in order for there to be so many repeated cases of the same issue on the same product. There has been 10+ installs where mechanics (all of varying experience levels) have encountered the same issue. it has already been tested and proven that dropping the transmission and cleaning/regreasing the splines solves the problem but only for a limited time. after a while dust will begin to accumilate and the issues will return.

Our best bet is to put together a list of all the people that have had the issues and contact exedy over this for some kind of resolution. When one guy calls yeah theyll most likely brush off the case. But when they are given a list of people pissed off they are a little more inclined to dig deeper into the situation

^ This Times https://gp4.googleusercontent.com/-4...k-no/photo.jpg

I have this issue too. My stage 1 did something similar, though not as often, so I never thought much of it. I only have a few thousand miles on it so far, and was broken in as per instructions. Also greased the splines with the included grease as per instructions as well.

I guess my question is then...

Why is clutch dust build up an issue on aftermarket clutches and not on the factory one? Seems odd pointing to dust specifically.

Not doubting there is an issue here with aftermarket setups vs stock, clearly there is. Just seems odd that dust would be the culprit on an aftermarket and not factory disc.

Exedy Stg. 2 tolerances seem to not be right for the input shaft (too tight)....

Given how tight those tolerances are to begin with, I would imagine it would be damn near impossible to get the transmission seated without a lot of force. Which someone should have taken as being wrong to begin with no?

The tolerance between the input shaft and the hub of the clutch disk is what I'm talking about.

Let me ask you, if it's not dust or tolerances, what do you think it is?

Because the other thing that can make a clutch drag is a bad pressure plate.

Again, consider this is not 1 or 2 random people with issues, this is "I know more than 10 people with the same clutch (between forum and locals) and all of them have the issue at some point".

just ordered the stage2 clutch :(

A guy with a centerforce clutch also had the same issue.

The other thing to take into consideration is the type of dust. Organic friction disk residue vs. cerametallic. Also exedy states that the break in period is crucial because on a newly fitted clutch only 30% of the fiction material is making contact. So i would imagine there would be a lot of dust generated merely from breakin

Whoa, was gonna order this clutch soon too.... good thing saw this thread before that! :thanks:

Mind posting up what you replace with later on?

Sure, will do :thumbup:

Damn, just got mine installed last week. Will keep a look out for this issue. Suck big time.:(

What I was speaking of as well.

I don't know, bad pressure plate seems more likely than dust IMO.

I'm not discrediting the issue at all here, just throwing ideas and my own opinions out.

@jher I was about to order this clutch this week. I guess I'll have to hear from you as well as follow this thread. I'm also curious about alternatives that people find that work.

Yeah I would waited it out until things get sorted out or fix. Xerious ask CSGMike what clutch is he running?

I currently have a competition stage 3 clutch. I should mention I have never had a problem of being in a gear but switching gears was more difficult going in or took more time but I never had it not go into another gear.

I just got my clutch installed so if you can't get it to go into 1st gear you used the 2nd gear to drive? Or your still able to get it into 1st some how. Just want to know so when I come across it I'll know what to expect.

I have a customer with the same issue. we have done the remove, clean, lube per Exedy's directions, and reinstalled. When this ultimately did not resolve the issue, I removed the clutch and have sense installed a factory unit for the time being. While I had it out and had several other frs clutches available to me to inspect it against I found that the hub used on the Exedy stage 2 measures smaller then factory (which is made by Exedy but is a different hub), ACT, and CM. What I am assuming is that the difference in this hub size is what is causing the issue. As I have installed several different clutches in these cars now and this is the only one I have had any issues with. When every thing is finalized I will report back more about what I find.

I have the Stg 2 aswell.

Not so many miles on it, approx 400 just..

Didn't care about breaking the clutch in.

No issues at all, very satisfied with the clutch so far :thumbup:

Either keep trying getting into other gears and getting into first, or turn off car, put it in first and start it up

@Shady195 this is why tolerances is a possibility.

@marcoaferrer @alpine

Thanks Ross!!

I have the same issue on Exedy's Stage 1 clutch. It seems to get worse as the motor and gearbox heat up.

yup

I don't have an Exedy, but i get 1st/reverse lockout with my ACT clutch SB7-HDSS. Bled fluid, adjusted pedal, messed with the reverse lockout. helps but doesn't completely get rid of it.

I notice if i press the pedal with more the toes/top half of the ball of my foot in addition to pausing before sliding the lever into gear I get more success.

Things I haven't tried...full flush of fluid. Installing a brand new slave cylinder I have laying around.

I have done many clutches on FR-S/BRZ and the only ones I have issues with is exedy, one of my customers had one installed by another shop and had the issue so he ordered a new one and after I installed it he started having the same issue after the break in period so we took the tranny out again and re grease it again and he is staring to have the issue again (that's 2 of the same clutch "exedy satge 2") plus @Sportsguy83's car

Thank you for the feedback of our products. I just went out and measured 5 random BRZ/FRS stage 2 clutch disc splines. First I tested against a Subaru spline guage. All five fit fine without issue and moved freely back and forth. I measure the major and minor spline diameter. The major diameter measured 25.2-25.8mm on all five samples. The blueprints state the majr diameter is 25.2mm +0.13mm/-0.00mm. The minor diameter measured 22.64-22.71mm. The blueprint states the minor diameter as 26.2mm +0.13mm/-0.00mm.

The BRZ/FR-S use the same Subaru spline as Impreza/Forester/Legacy etc. We are the OEM supplier to Subaru/Scion for the BRZ/FR-S. The same broach is used to cut the splines for all models, both OEM and aftermarket.

With most of these issues occuring after warm up it sounds like an issue with the hydraulic system. The clutch that comes OEM is VERY weak. The OEM clamp load when new is 1046lbs (4650N). The stage 1 and stage 2 clutch clamp load when new is 1652lbs (7350N). This is a 63% increase in clamp load over OEM. Most the time we try to keep the increase at no more than 30%. We do have this option as well part number TK07H and TK07T (clamp load is 1349lb). These are for the OEM flywheel and these kits are sold as cover/disc only (no bearings). However do not attempt to use on a boosted application as the wheel torque capacity assuming 20% driveline loss on stage 1 is 166ft/lbs (259ft/lbs clutch torque) and stage 2 is 199ft/lbs(311ft/lbs clutch torque).

Has anybody upgraded their OEM hydraulic system? Has anybody had Issues with Clutch Master, ACT, SPEC or Competition Clutch?

Appreciate the feedback.

Evan Cline @ Exedy

Evan, I found measuring your oe disk to have a larger amount of clearance then I did with your stage 2 disk. As well I found ACT and Clutch Masters disks to be much closer to the factory disk then your stage 2 disk. As well Your plate pressure feels much lighter then the other clutches I have installed, clutch hydraulics I do not feel comes into play. The exedy staged clutches are the only clutch I have had this issue with, I have installed multiple clutch kits on this platform. I will say I have not installed spec, and we do not support comp clutches.

Unfortunately, for me at least, it seems to surround the kit it self. I wish this was not the case as I initially really liked the pedal effort and the way the kit grabbed. I also prefer getting parts from oe suppliers as they typically have better quality behind them. But if I supply a part, I stand behind it, and I have now had the transmission out of one car a minimum 3 times with this clutch kit. This is the only one out of the other manufactures we have installed that has this issue. That cost me time that could have been spent working on another car. Either way it is on the way back for inspection, and I will have this transmission out of this car for the fourth time after that is resolved.

Has anyone change out their stock clutch line to aftermarket SS braided one? Just wondering if that would help a little. :iono:


Thinking about changing mine out.