Is Motul just a fad? Or is it chemically superior?
 

Society today is plagued with buzz words and trends. Things that say "Organic" fly off the shelves regardless of their actual ingredients. All of a sudden "gluten" comes seemingly out of nowhere and now half the worlds population is allergic to it. Crossfit, apparently just a competition to see who's the best at working out, is covered night and day by ESPN.
So my question is; Is Motul chemically superior to Mobil 1 or any other Full Synthetic? What about Amsoil or the other "race" oils? Or are we all just the protein powder meatheads dropping barbells at the gym?

Please calculate your responses. I'm not looking for "I know it's better because some guy I know who races cars uses it" or "Everyone on the Subaru forums uses it so it's gotta be good". Real data. Oil analysis.

Well its definitely not fad if you were a long time Subaru driver like some of us on here, people have been super into Motul for the gearbox and rear end at least since I first got my WRX back in late 2005 and it still just as popular.

So that's at least 9 years that I know of personally. I've seen posts dating back 14 years on NASIOC talking about Motul fluids.

Real data, oil analysis? I can't provide those. Only my in-car feels after using different brands. I wouldn't say they are way in above superior to everything else on the market. I'm mind of the mind that certain formulations work better in certain set-ups, for whatever reason. Motul Gear 300 works excellent in the twins' manual gearbox and diff. I've driven one with Amsoil in the box, and it was definitely better than stock, and pretty on par with Motul 300. I tend to use Motul in my motorcycle too, because of good experiences with it. On the contrary, I haven't always had the best of experience with Redline, for whatever reason. So for that, I stick with Amsoil/Motul for my vehicle fluids. My Camaro was Mobil1 for engine oil and Amsoil for gears, because that worked well there. I don't have any numbers or anything, just how the car felt with different fluids.

Its currently the "in" oil... it'll change in a few years again. it was Royal Purple and then Redline and then AMSOIL and now everyone is jerking it to motul. They do make some really good brake fluid and I plan to use their gear oil in my transmission but thats because it just happens to meet my needs for now. Royal Purple went in my mustang diffs because it had friction modifier in it already and was cheaper than buying everything seperate.

Motul is the real deal... It has tested higher then any other "conventional oil blends" IE: no snake oil additives.

here is the article and list of all oils at the bottom. http://540ratblog.wordpress.com/

Does anyone know if the Montul gear lube eliminates or reduces the rear end chatter associated when accelerating from stop on sharp left or right turns?

Yes. I used to get chatter on stock fluid, and it's eliminated once I put in Motul Gear 300LS.

I've never tried the regular Gear 300 in the rear diff, but I heard it might still chatter. Gear 300LS is what you should use.

Thanks. Ordered the regular Montul 300. If this does not eliminate chatter, will try the LS.

We used Blackstone Used Oil Analysis on multiple vehicle platforms over the past 8 years to validate our findings and experiences. We'll stick to Motul because it works for our application. Everybody has their own preferences for different reasons.

Why would a Torsen diff need oil with a limited slip additive/friction modifier?

Torsen T2 differentials are all gear driven.

Differentials that use it are usually Clutch type limited slip.


I changed the transmission and differential oil in my FRS a week after I bought it. The motul gear 300 did make a difference for cold driving. I never had any complaints when the transmission was at operating temp

I never had the chattering problem but I only had the factory oil in for a week.

My diff would grumble on the first turn after sitting overnight then made no noise, but after running the Motul I don't get the "first turn grumble" and more.

Motul in my trans fixed the 1st to 2nd grind that I had, especially when cold.

Interesting read!

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...27&postcount=9

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...6&postcount=12

^ These are just a few. The 300 will be fine in the rear diff, but the 300LS might be better.

Too bad that "test" has zero relevance to how an oil performs inside of an engine.

Motul is no fad though.

https://www.motul.com/us/en-US/about

Founded in 1899 in New York, the Swan & Finch company started its activity in the sector of high quality lubricants. As from 1920, it turns to the international markets by exporting some of its portfolio brands like Aerul, Textul, Motul

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motul_(company)

There are some uoa's on 300V in the long uoa thread on this forum, but your questions cannot be answered by a few random $30 uoa's. These types of uoa's are very limited in scope and should not be used to judge oils. Motul, Mobil1, and Amsoil all use the finest base stocks and additives available and they all make oils that are certified by the API as well as making race oils.

-Dennis

What about oil from a company called Klotz?

I remember when I raced model cars, the nitro fuel mixed with Klotz oil was always viewed as the best.

I know that's no comparison for our cars, but I was still curious about the company and the oil they make.

http://www.klotzlube.com/

Hell no, no way I want my lube to klot!

:threadjacked::offtopic::D

-Dennis

I'm new to this car and driving a stick. I've been wondering lately if there was something wrong with the car. When I make a sharp right turn going from an uphill straight (the last block on my way home) I've noticed a noise even though the RPM's are at around 1500. Was worried I was lugging my engine. Does this sound like the same problem you speak of?

Would be great if swapping out the gear lube would eliminate this problem.

Swapping to Motul also eliminated that first turn "grumble" in mine as well, plus the heavier hot weight feels better in the trans.

Anyone else with constant low-speed-tight-radius (turning) chatter/groaning on Motul gear 300?

Kind of has me worried after discovering it. The fluid has about 3500 miles on it.

Yes I noticed this more than smoothing out the shifting (which fwiw it seemed close to the stock fluid, maybe a bit better when hot). The little rear end shutter of the LSD is nearly gone with the Motul when cold.

We've been using Motul for the past 12+ years. We've had oil analysis's from Blackstone over that time from not only us but also our customers. We also use Amsoil.

Motul 8100 is our "basic" oil change. We go through roughly (1) 55 Gal Drum of it every 3-4 weeks. We also use the Motul products in all our track cars and get Blackstone analysis on them with no bad reports.

-Mike Paisan

http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/153798190.jpg
Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Enthusiasts since 2001.
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What intervals do you see with the 8100 for street use?

If motul, go for 300v only. Had bad experience with the h-tech variant

Details?

There can be no doubting that Motul is great product. They seem to have among the highest amount of esters in their base stocks. I remember Joey saying something along those lines. What about Red Line? What about group 3+ ? Are you finding that only 300V and Signature Series/Dominator stand up? I will search the UOA thread herein. It must make for some interesting reading. TY.

You're right about how they work however the fluid that is associated with the clutches in differentials is separate. Which is why that style of diffs is not very popular among the used market... You can't change or replace it. Sucks. Otherwise I'd already have an na miata...

Here's my experience with Motul:

I compete in SCCA RallyCross and my last car was a 03 WRX with a swapped STI V7 6MT. I used both Subaru Extra S and Motul 300. The Extra S began to lose its heat resistance after about a year of competition. Once the oil got some good heat in it, shifting would begin to get a little notchy. The Motul lasted through two seasons before I started noticing a drop in smoothness.

I'm not sure what the h-tech variant is but in these cars you should be running the 8100 series full synthetic.

The 300v is NOT intended for extended drain intervals as they do not include the same additive packages that you find in the 8100 series which is intended for street use.

-Mike Paisan

http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/153798190.jpg
Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Enthusiasts since 2001.
Like us on Facebook! | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) |AIM: AZP Installs
"Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!"

I'm not sure how many events you partook in but in road course track events we change out the trans and diffy fluid, even Motul once a season if it needs it or not. :)

Glad to hear the Motul Gear 300 worked for you.

-Mike Paisan

http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/153798190.jpg
Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Enthusiasts since 2001.
Like us on Facebook! | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) |AIM: AZP Installs
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The 8100 series has worked well for our clients especially those who have done UOAs after 6-8K miles.

-Mike Paisan

http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/153798190.jpg
Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Enthusiasts since 2001.
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Our clients use the 8100 for anywhere from 5-8K miles depending on their driving style is.

We have been alternating 300V 5w30 and Motul 8100 0w20 on our Project BRZ with 3000 mile intervals which includes about 2-3 track weekends during each of those 3000 mile intervals.

-Mike Paisan

http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/153798190.jpg
Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Enthusiasts since 2001.
Like us on Facebook! | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) |AIM: AZP Installs
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That's exactly what I said. The clutch style differentials use a friction modifier in the oil.

There is no need to use the motul with the friction modifier for LSD as the FRS uses a Torsen and has no clutch pack. Using it won't hurt anything but it isn't necessary.

Motul is a fad like wearing underwear is a fad.

Motul has been "in" for many years now. It only appears to be a fad now because this is a relatively new board and there are a lot of first time enthusiasts here. Motul has been good for a while and will continue to be ;)

Also, OP, there are many many oil analysis and data on NASIOC for Motul. 300v is a true race oil and is a big deal in the tracking community around here. (Texas)

H-tech 0W-20 is primarily an Asian/Aussie oil. Compared to Eco-lite 8100 0W-20, it is thinner in all temps and probably has a lower High Temp High Shear.

https://www.motul.com/system/product...pdf?1339474108

https://www.motul.com/system/product...pdf?1375489501

Being that it is thinner and meets newer API/ILSAC specfications, I presume it is geared more towards better fuel economy over wear protection.

-Dennis

Ever since I did the Motul Gear 300 swap in my transmission and differential, I have noticed a huge improvement in shifting and smoothness with the car. I really wish I would have done this sooner than 18k miles. It is well worth and I believe that Motul does live up to a high quality product. Real road experience has convinced me over the past 2,000 miles.

Majority of driving is daily so I don't know how this contends with the track users, but I am happy with it.

LSD is an umbrella term. Torsen falls under that category. So do clutch style lsds, whatever they're called. Like the ones on old miatas

Gear 300 is good for the tranny especially when you're putting a lot of heat into the system. When oil breaks down, it becomes harder to get into gear. While Gear 300 doesn't have issues with heat, it sometimes feels a little notchy when it is cold. You'll notice there are always some compromise. OEM fill usually feels the best in the cold, but also begins to suffer in high temps.

Gear 300 LS works better for track related use for the additional frictional modifiers. It just feels different. It's not something most people will notice on their everyday drive.

Mike, correct me if I am wrong, but the Gear 300 LS can't be used in the trans because it isn't GL4 rated? Only the Gear 300 NON-LS can be used in the Trans, that's one reason we use the non-LS across the board so that we can put in rear diffy and trans without issue.

-Mike Paisan

http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/153798190.jpg
Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Enthusiasts since 2001.
Like us on Facebook! | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) |AIM: AZP Installs
"Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!"