DIY Oil Change Worth It?
 

I don't know how to do an Oil Change; but would it be worth learning and more so the money I could save? a Good Oil Change is around $30-$40 where I'm from.

Do it yourself and get a Fumoto Valve. I personally haven't done it myself, but will be doing this once I hit 5k on my current oil. I already have the valve and did the oil chance on my fiancés 2012 Corolla and didn't have any issues. Just need to change the filter and flip the switch from now on :).

Learning to change the oil is fun. It used to save a bit of change, but places now are getting fairly cheap for synthetic oil changes. You can save maybe $5-$10 doing it on your own, but the nice part is being able to change your oil whenever you want instead of having to wait on other people. Also, as you get better, you can get the oil changed in about 15 minutes, which is nothing at all.

In all honesty if you could get a good change for 30-40 using the right oil and oem filter then I say go for it. Down here in Miami, on oil alone is about $50. The fumoto valve is a great idea, google it if you don't know about it, makes draining the oil more controllable and cleaner given you could use a hose. It sort of pays for it self with not having to buy crush washers lol.

Are there specific Fumoto valves that are compatible or was there only one Fumoto lol

They make them for almost every car including ours, the brand name is just one specific one, don't think anyone else copies them.

It's also under the name Quik Valve now. Same thing. F-108 is the correct version our cars. In searching, you might see F-105, but that is for the EJ motors.

F-108N has a nipple for a hose, but sticks out lower.

F-108S has a shorter nipple, just enough to get a hose on.

I've never found a need for a hose, so I stick with the plain one. Amazon sells them.

[ame="http://www.amazon.com/Fumoto-F-108-Engine-Drain-Valve/dp/B003VCCUJI"]Amazon.com: Fumoto F-108 Engine Oil Drain Valve: Automotive[/ame]


Crap, I just realized I have one sitting here in my home office. I bought it for my girlfriend's Mini Cooper that she ended up trading in, but then I bought one for my BRZ...didn't even notice that it was the same or I could have saved myself the $26...idiot.

Back on track, do your own oil changes if you have any interest at all. It's far too easy to just put gas in a car, drive it around and let other people worry about whether it's going to keep running. I like to take an active part in my car's life, and it's nice to get underneath once in a while.

There's not much to learn. Rallysport Direct did a nice DIY on this already, if I remember correctly. Just buy OEM filters from the dealer. They're cheap and still the best, tell them to keep the crush washer if you install the valve. Be sure to write down mileage and date in a little log book, so you know when to do it again.

I recently saw that Autozone carry's nice oil jugs now. The pan/container things are terrible. They ALWAYS leak through the threads. Best thing is a nice big open pan with a spout on one end to pour from. Pour into the jug, it'll hold at least two oil changes worth, then take the jug into the parts store and have them dump it into the recycle bin (free).

I'm gonna stop before I start rambling...

this car is the easiest oil change ever! just like S2000
oil filter is right there when you open the hood.
buy Ramp if you're not comfortable with floor jack.
after your 1st DIY oil change, you can decide you can do it next time or just going to shop to do it

Even if you don't continue to do it in the future, changing the oil or any basic car maintenance for that matter is worth doing at least once on your own. It's a new skill, experience and you learn more about your car. When I get under my car, I wait for the oil to drain, I check the surrounding areas under the car for anything that may be of suspect or need to be looked into further, or just really look and see whats what down there.

Doing your own oil change financially vs Bringing someplace really isnt as competitive as it used to be. Maybe save $5? At the most $10 if you do it yourself now a days.

The FR-S is the only car besides my Z I change the oil myself in again, simply because I want to use the oil I want to use. I really dont worry about Dealers/Walmarts/Valvolines fucking anything up, just making sure I get the oil put in that I want put in. My other cars all got whatever generic dino/synthetic oil change thes eplaces offered. Wasn't worth getting under the car if I could do my shopping and have it done at the same time.

However I would highly recommend doing some of these things yourself at least once as I said.

Changing the oil on an 86 is rediculously easy.

With the fumoto valve, it takes no time at all and defintely makes it less of a chore.

This brings up a valid point. Sometimes you should worry. I've gotten home after an oil change to find my oil cap rattling around in the engine bay on my Mustang. Never underestimate the power of poorly-paid/trained employees to screw things up.

Oh dont get me wrong, I know it happens. I also know some people are just lazy and careless, however I dont worry about it all that much. I will admit I do check before I take off that the cap is on and oil is full. I have on 1 occasion checked and I was a little over a quart low, oil looked new, guessing homie somehow just fucked it up/wasnt paying attention, shit happens though.

I just read this thread and went and bought the fumoto valve. Looking forward to trying it out. Might have to purchase them for my 5 other vehicles, hahha

Do it yourself and get a Fumoto Valve..very easy and you get great time hang out with your car

I'd do it yourself for the sake of knowing it is done properly with the correct amount of oil! I've been a professional tech for the last 12 years, and I can tell you horror stories of what I'd like to call, "High Velocity Engine Flushes," lol.

On the other hand, if you're just wondering if it will save you money if you do it yourself. No, in most cases, the oil you'd buy at a store will be more expensive than just having it all done at once...plus most every shop in business will take competitors' coupons. Why not you know? If they don't let you, you'll use it elsewhere! Anyways, I used to change my own at the house, but ended up constantly buying Royal Purple or Castrol GTX Full Syn, and it was actually more expensive.

I'd also recommend to anyone reading this thread, to avoid factory set oil change schedules. Those were set based on daily driving under normal easy conditions, NOT extreme conditions. Most of us enthusiasts are known to drive a little hard from time to time; or even racing. If you're driving hard, you risk the oil breaking down faster, so I'd suggest changing it every 3-5...even with full synthetic.

Baby the engine for the first 500 miles, then change the oil to get the break-in oil out. At this point decide whether you're going to go full synthetic, blend, or conventional oil, and stick to the same type of oil for the rest of the life of the car. It's not a real good idea to swap to synthetic two years down the road, as seals have come accustomed to the oil they've been using. Convention oil is thicker when its cold, where full synthetic doesn't change consistency, and on colder mornings, you could develop a leak or saturation on a seal, where the conventional oil wouldn't of leaked - thins as it heats, while seals expand with heat. Anyways after the initial change at 500, I'd change every 3,000-5,000 depending on how you drive your car. Also, the best bet to save money...is to check your oil regularly, if it's low-ish...change it, if it's dark/burnt...change it, if its clear and smooth, you're probably okay to keep going on it.

NAPA 0W-20 Sale - 6Qts @ $3.49 / Qt = $20.94
OEM Subaru Oil Filter and Washer =~$7

Total = ~$28

I call that a win.

I'm not a "professional tech" anymore...former Toyota Technican years that's been out of the garage for about 5 years. I'm an IT Engineer and this is what I know.... I could be wrong, but I highly doubt it.

My Subaru dealer charges 54.95 for an oil change currently (promotion), and my Toyota Dealership charges 99.99 for a Scion FRS oil change. Both with 0W-20 oil.

You can get a 6 quarts of oil for about 4 dollars per quart, you're at 24 dollars. The filter is like 6 bucks and the washer is like 50 cents.

The total is around 31 dollars to do it yourself. The math explains if it's worth doing it yourself.


Now onto "not following the factory recommended interval"... People have performed an oil analysis and there are reports of the oil being in good shape at 7,500 miles. People who change it at 5k miles get recommendations of extending their oil change interval. In this case, it would only harm your wallet to change it earlier than necessary.

You don't baby the engine for the first 500 miles, you keep the engine at varying speeds and under 4000 RPM for the first 1000 miles. Why? Because the engineers built the engine and put this in the manual. It can be debated if the lawyers put it in there, but if they felt 500 miles is enough, they would had put 500 and not 1000.

No where in the manual does it state to change the oil early at 500 miles. Factory fills have more moly which helps in the break in.

Switching from synthetic to conventional doesn't cause any oil problems or leaks. If the car is leaking oil, it's because the seals are bad. The way conventional oil flows is different from synthetic. Conventional motor molecules vary in size as synthetic motor oil molecules are uniform.

http://www.cardwelldist.com/dev/file...tic-Oil_03.jpg

http://www.cardwelldist.com/dev/file...tic-Oil_10.jpg

Due to a different flow, the crevices that the previous oil didn't flow through now has oil flowing through it, hence "leaks" but as I already explained it's because the car already has a oil leak.

If it's low change the oil? Why would you do that? Some cars naturally burn oil. Some more than others. If the car is burning oil at an alarming rate, I would check the piston rings and not change the oil because the car is low on oil.

Color does not indicate the life of the oil. You can run the oil for 1000 miles and it could turn pitch black. It just means the oil is working and it is cleaning your engine.

Places advertise $30-$40 for oil changes on most cars. That's 5 quarts of conventional 5w-30 oil as it covers most cars.


This car takes 5.8 quarts of synthetic 0w-20.


In other words you're not going to get that price. You'll probably pay nearly double that. On the flip side, oil changes (as well as air filter changes) are the easiest maintenance items to do on a car, so it's a good place to learn.

I DIY my oil changes not because to save money. I just don't want the dealership to mess up my car doing a simple task. I keep my receipts to document the oil changes.

Alright so any preferences of what Oil to buy and such. I see the 0w-20..whatever that means hehehehehe ..I AM A COMPLETE CAR NOOB...I don't even have a floor jack, jack stands, ramp or anything but my garage has a little ramp so I think I could change the oil if I reverse in and leave the hood hanging over!

Questions:
What Oil do I need (Synthetic) and can I buy it at O'Reilly's / Autozona (I live in Vegas)

Filter - I've seen the word Fumata, same question as above.

Anything else? I've seen places offer with Lube...I don't know what means;

Can I truly do this on my own or should I have my neighbor who works on his own cars teach me this first time?


THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR ALL YOUR HELP :) I appreciate it. Sorry for being a newb!

Yes, you can do this as long as you can get under the car to reach the drain plug. You don't even need to remove any of the undertrays.

Filter - get this from the dealer. They're a few bucks each and I like to get 2 or 3 each time I go so I always have them on hand.

Oil - If you have a Napa Auto Parts nearby, they should carry Eneos 0w-20. Otherwise, the only stuff I've seen at the local O'reilly's or Autozone is a Mobil "fuel efficiency" blend. If you can find any performance auto shop around, they might carry Motul, which is great stuff, but might be more expensive than Eneos, which is good stuff anyway.

If you haven't already read the DIY I mentioned earlier, look it up (it's in the DIY subforum), along with any other oil change DIYs you might find in there. Then see what questions you have left after that.

Although it should be pointed out in any DIY, it should be noted that you want the car to be level when filling it back up with oil and checking the level.

Also take the lower level marking

While I can do it myself, it's not worth it for me.

I have to go buy the buy the oil. It ends up taking an hour including getting out the ramps, changing the oil and cleanup. Then I got to dispose of the oil. It's not worth my time. I'll gladly pay someone to do it for a few bucks.

Do you have data to suport this? The UOA i just did along with others on the board have run engines hard (auto x/track/canyons) and are fine with 7500 intervals. Hell, they told me to run to 9500 next time.

Perfectly acceptable if your time is worth more to you than that. Not everyone makes that kind of money (and some people like working on their cars).


I'd probably pawn it off on someone else too (or I'd have a lift in my garage and do it in no time)

it's around $70 at subaru here in Denver. If you can do it for 30, don't waste your time. It's fun doing your own, as long as you are saving money. But for that price let them get dirty for you :)

I use this. Works great. [ame="http://www.amazon.com/America-5060-Topsider-Multi-Purpose-Removing/dp/B001445IZ8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1408706480&sr=8-1&keywords=Air+Power+America+5060+Topsider+Multi-Purpose+Fluid+Removing+System"]http://www.amazon.com/America-5060-Topsider-Multi-Purpose-Removing/dp/B001445IZ8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1408706480&sr=8-1&keywords=Air+Power+America+5060+Topsider+Multi-Purpose+Fluid+Removing+System[/ame]

Since the filter is on top no need to jack up the car or use ramps.

People generally not always but generally put care into their work what they are paid. Thos quick lube places don't pay well. Therefore well you should understand what I'm saying.

One time I was on a cross contry tryp and had to pay to have my oil changed and they stripped the threads. Thats the only time in 25 years I've had someone else change my oil.

Plus you get a chance to check your magnetic oil pan plug (get one) you are sure of the quality of the oil you are using. Some places use the cheapest oil the can find not SN certified as our cars require. There is just too much risk in letting someone else change your oil unless you have a bad back or something then I would find a kid I trust and work with him.

Maybe but I follow the manual and it says 3500 miles unless you drive like grandma. A UOA doesn't show even 10% of the additives in the oil.

Maybe not, but it does show wear rates of the engine based on metal content. Readings in PPM is better than looking at a magnetic oil drain plug like you mentioned above. If those are in check then I think it's OK. Isn't the the point of oil?

You must be referring to the Severe Schedule. My maintenance manual says for Normal driving to change the oil and filter every 7,500 miles.

Severe
Repeated short distance driving; driving in extremely cold weather, replace
every 3,750 miles or 3 and 3/4 months, whichever occurs first

Definitely worth it in my book. I do it for the money savings, convenience factor, and satisfaction of knowing it was done right. In the 28 years I've been driving, I don't believe I've ever paid to have my oil changed. I did have the oil in my Mini Cooper changed at the dealership a few times since free maintenance was included for the first 3 or 4 years, and the Mini/BMW dealer had a nice waiting room with good coffee.

As far as interval goes, it really depends on the oil. If you use cheap gulf 0W-20 synthetic then 5,000 miles is all I would leave it in for. Go with Amsoil Signature Series and their filter and Amsoil will guarantee the oil for 15-25k miles depending on the vehicle. I will be doing a UOA on mine after around 7,500 miles pretty soon.

As far as if it is cheaper, only if you use the same quality of oil the dealer or shop uses. If you run royal purple or Amsoil then it will be more, but the oil will be of a higher quality.

Only use for a magnetic drain plug is pretty much for piston rings or cylinder walls. The rest of the metals produced by wear are non-ferrous, meaning they won't stick to a magnet.

If you have the space and want to change your own oil then get what you need and do it. Just be sure the filter old gasket comes off before you put the new filter on. If you don't it could be goodbye engine, and the dealer could say too bad, it's not covered because you screwed up.

get the valve, worth every penny

I love it.
The hose attachment makes it very easy and mess free to drain directly into containers for recycling.

I prefer doing my own oil changes because I don't like waiting 1-3 hours at a subaru dealership, having to see the salesman, and also deal with their markup and also you'll pay tax as well for the service. I feel like they talk down to me too, since I could have been doing the service myself instead of wasting time and money at their shop.

I wouldn't take my car to a regular shop. They won't have an OEM filter, and you won't know if they used a drain plug crush washer or not. I just went by the subaru dealership and picked up a few oil filters and crush washers.

Good tip on the fumoto valve. Might pick one up. Doing an oil change without requiring tools would be awesome.

I've never seen this happen before. Are you saying the rubber seal on the filter could stick to the oil filter pan area?

The approx cost of my first DIY oil change on the BRZ, getting all the parts necessary to do it- well here it is itemized:

Rhino ramps - ~$45

Cheap socket wrench kit - $15

Oil filter - $5 at Subaru dealership

Crush washer - $1 Subaru dealership

6 quarts of synthetic oil - $40

Oil funnel - $5

Oil drain pan - $10

Oil recycle jug - $10

Shop towels - $5

Fast orange - $5

So about $150 for all this to get setup, after that DIY oil changes should cost maybe less than $40-50 each. Cheaper than the $90 oil changes at Subaru dealerships.

Threads like this referring to dealer charges/bs really makes me wish i got to enjoy the era of the garage bay/tool rentals and wish they were still around.