Best clay bar or recommendations
 

Does anyone have a recommendation on the best clay bar to use? What is your experience? I am just wanting to make sure I don't go cheap and get a bad one. If that is even possible.

I am getting ready to wash, clay, polish with PC, and wax. Basically a swirl removing project.

Thanks in advanced!

Chemical guys clay bars are great. I'd suggest buying them on Amazon for fast shipping.

Here you go :)

http://www.stayfreshcarcare.com/#!pr...correction-kit
http://www.stayfreshcarcare.com/#!pr...4525/poly-clay

If you don't want to wait on shipping, the Mother's or Meguiar's clay kits you can walk into Walmart, etc or a car parts store and buy are good.

Clay Magic owns the patents that keep others from marketing some of the better brands here in the states . So other then grades of clay ( fine , medium , coarse ) most clays are very similar. Over the counter products as Richard Garsa has mentioned are very good claying products. If you want to step up your game a little try and purchase some Richardo Clay from E-Shine out of Canada. They are now importing it to the states. I have no idea how they are getting around Clay Magic unless the patent has expired.

http://www.eshine.ca/riccardo_clay_o...w_8oz-4001.php

A friend just pm'ed me and said many companies are now importing Richardo Clay. This is good news to those looking for a great product.

http://www.autogeek.net/detailing-clay-bar.html

Watch this video if you have not done this before. I did it and it worked great. Things I learned was 1) be sure to test the smoothness of each area after you finish as I should have hit a few spots again and 2) be sure to add sealant back to paint as you go.
Some products can be used as clay lube but I just used what came in the kit with the clay. You want a box to put the clay in so you can use it again and so it will stay good.

We will never understand a company that offers 5 different Clay bars. Please don't waste your money on products you don't need. Stay Fresh clay is unique in its own way because its self forming properties and ability to remove light and heavy contamination. Please keep in mind pressure plays a huge roll in how much contamination you are removing. obviously on a brand new car you do not want to go balls to walls superman pressure on the paint. It's always important to inspect the Clay during each section.

I've had great results with Clay Magic

Nick C.

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fqW1nzgyMNA"]How To Clay Bar Your Car Like a Pro - Remove Overspray Chemical Guys EPIC DETAILING - YouTube[/ame]

This is the video I meant to post. I think the clay he used was a one does all.

Might be a good place to ask: how are your experiences with clay blocks (those spongy things)?

I have tried numerous clay block and returned to regular clay and clay ( speedy prep towels ). As for different grades of clay , when you do enough claying of various paint conditions you will see the need. I don't sell clay , I just use it.
Always use the least aggressive product needed. Keep this in mind when claying. Claying will micro-mar your paint. The more aggressive the product or harder you press , the more marring it will cause. In the classes I have attended and also taught there is always someone that claims they clay and never mar the surface. With a scope they are proven to be incorrect. remember your painted surface is like a mirror. The more defect free and flat it is , the better the reflection will be.

This is exactly why we sell one bar. Its foolish and almost a scam to sell 5 different clay bars.
This industry is becoming flooded with EXTRA products that's not needed! Yes claying does causing micro marring and is pointless to use unless you are going to paint correct!

That is like saying you only need one fine grit of sand paper to strip a car.. If you rub 5000 grit sand paper long enough you could strip a fender or you could use the correct grit and save time and money. You keep selling what ever product you need to sir and I'll keep giving free information to those that ask. They can try it of ignore it , it's there choice. I'll let Richardo's know that the multiple grades of clay the sell are close to being a scam even thought the have some of the best clay produced. Have a great day.

Always had good experience with Adam's Polishes clay.

This sheds some light on the clay 'patents'.

Why do we call it Adam's MADE IN THE USA Detail Clay?For the better part of the past 7 years clay in the US was under the control of a patent which limited the production, sourcing, and sales of all detail clay. With the expiration of this patent earlier this year Adam's was once again able to formulate our own clay bars and make sure that not only the components, but the packaging, and even the label were made right here in the USA.
PRO-TIP: Adam's Detailing Clay Bars should be stored at moderate temperatures. If the clay will be stored for an extended period of time without use place into a sealable plastic bag. Add a light spray of Adam's Detail Spray in the bag to keep clay moist until the next use.
Contents: (2) 100gram Adam's Made in the USA Detailing Clay Bars with storage container

I knew they were close to being near the end of their patent protection. Now the other companies will play catch-up with other countries not covered by those restrictions.

Thanks for all the advice and information of personal experience. I plan to lightly go over sections of my car with clay with a lubricant called Infinite Use Detail Juice by Garry Dean. Of course after washing it thoroughly and keeping it cool inside a garage. Followed by use of PC DA on Hexlogic pad (orange) using Meguiar's 105 followed by 205 polish by Meguiar's using a Hexlogic white pad. Then a wax followed by sealant. I will probably just get a Meguiar's or Mother's clay bar.

Start with a test section 2'x2' and try what you have posted. If you have dialed it in and are happy with the results then do the whole car. If not adjust accordingly. if you have any further questions please feel free to contact me or if you call Garry , tell him Paul from Indy said hi.

I'm gonna give nanoskin autoscrub speedy prep sponge a try

I've heard good things about that, don't forget to post up some pictures of the results

Nick C.

ive started using nanoskin recently and i love it.

Clay Magic are the originators and they've got the patent...Sounds like a solid bet to try their product (which I have and works great):

[ame="http://www.amazon.com/Simoniz-S57-Perfect-Finish-Detailing/dp/B0081OSRQQ"]Amazon.com: Simoniz S57 Perfect Finish Detailing Clay Bar: Automotive[/ame]

When I clayed my car I used lots of clay lube and almost no pressure. I used about 1/3 of the bar in my hand pressed out to cover my fingers. In other words I tried to be as gentle as possible. If anything I left behind some stuff but it was still a night and day difference. Like I said had I checked using the ziplock bag feel test or even your fingers I could have hit some of the bad spots again. I used this clay - Pinnacle’s Ultra Poly Clay because it said it could be used often.
Work in small sections and take your time. It did not take that long for me. Most of the grit was on the upper surfaces like roof, hood, rear deck lid.

Keep in mind that clay barring will most likely cause marring to the paint. Always follow up with polish and wax.

Can anyone recommend an aggressive clay? I'm looking for something with a bit more "bite" than the regular OTC mothers and meguiars.
Thanks!

You guys are way more expereinced in this than I. On my previous cars, I've always used Meguire's or Mothers clay bar. What's wrong with doing this? Sorry for the noob'ish question, just trying to learn something new...

Just used the nanoskin autoscrub sponge this morning. My BRZ is opticoated and never been clayed before.

Washed with ONR and used 30-35ml of ONR in to 32oz spray bottle as lubricant. Super easy to use and you can feel it pick up the contaminants. Didn't notice any marring and I waxed with Optimum car wax afterwards. Finished in less than 1.5hrs.

Sorry no pics as my car was covered in pollen afterwards. :thumbdown:

You are aware that your OC can be abraded off with a autoscrub sponge ? Tread lightly. You mentioned your ride had never been clayed. Why would anyone not decontaminate before applying OC 2.0 or OCP ? Once Optimum coatings are applied then only deep cleaning is needed to maintain along with either ONR or a proper power wash.

OC was done professionally and it was decontaminated before it was applied. I have never clayed the car until now.

I think claying/autoscrub sponge once a year should be safe on OC. I did use the fine grade sponge.

auto scrub


/thread

I'm in the same situation as you @sprintertrueno86. My OC was done professionally beginning of last year. Water still beads very well and I can dry my whole car with one towel, but now I'm starting to see black dots around the wheel arches (from tires???). I wanted to see if claybar can clear those up.