Throttle delay after OpenFlash
 

Hey Guys....quick question.

I recently pulled the trigger and finally went with the OpenFlash tablet for my tuning choice. First off, I love the way the car feels now, truly a great job and worth every penny. The flashing process was simple and I didn't run into any issues.

With that said, I'm having one small issue with the throttle delay not really going away as it normally should. I flashed my car last Friday (4/4) to the stage 1 tune. I know that the throttle delay is to be expected any time the ECU gets flashed, however from what I've read about other people's experiences it seems to go away fairly quickly.

Each time before I start the car I've been putting it into accessory mode and pressing the pedal fully down and fully releasing about 10 times then turning it back off before starting the actual engine. Additionally I've taken it on a few country back roads and let it briefly hit redline to see if that helps. Despite this the delay is still there, not better or worse, just not going away.

Did anyone else ever experience it taking a longer time than this? Just FYI, it's my daily.

Accessory mode does nothing. You need to have the key set to ON without the engine running. If you have keyless start, that's 2 presses of the Start button without stepping on the clutch.

Don't worry it will go away after a week or so of daily driving. I've noticed this too, even after doing the "pedal thing" with key set to ON. In my case, I've noticed that for some reason after flashing a new map, the gas pedal has a very slight dead spot where you could depress it the first few millimeters and get no revs. But apart from that everything else works as normal. More of a minor annoyance than anything

+1

It will go away in a few drive cycles. Give it a day or two for the ECU to learn the new min and max throttle voltages. This will need to be done after every flash or ECU reset (battery disconnect).

There's the dead pedal curable by the pedal stuff. If you've done that then the trims being set at low RPM and idle will settle after a short period and get rid of that.

Dang. I flashed mine on Tuesday and was hoping it would go away in a couple days like some people said. Guess I'll give it a week also. I think the pedal thing only works RIGHT after you flash it?

The "pedal thing" helps, but it isn't a complete solution. I'm a process engineer and one of the things I do is tune control loops. What it feels like to me is that the control loop between pedal and throttle isn't tuned correctly after the flash, leading to a lot of herky-jerky shit. This goes away over about a half dozen drive cycles for me (average drive is about 30 miles). It's annoying, yes, especially to someone like me to likes to make a lot of small tweaks.

That's what I meant, I've been mistakenly calling it 'Accessory Mode' this whole time I guess lol. Thanks for pointing that out.

Alright, well it sounds like this is still normal then...I appreciate all the reply's and the reassurance!

Personally, I just flashed and let the car idle for a 3 or 4 min, then took it out for a spin. Did a few runs from minimal throttle + rpm to max throttle and rpm through the gears and was fine/unnoticeable to me :)

My experience has been the same, but in some cases much longer than one week. I may have noticed some correlation to ambient temperature, but I have not confirmed this. Keep in mind that I may be finding correlation where there isn't any.


First flash (November 2013)->almost four weeks of daily driving and several hour long drives and the pedal still had some deadband at the end of that
Second flash (December 2013) -> the usual deadband which tightened up after a few drives but was instantly gone within a day when the temperatures exceeded 0C.
Third flash (January 2014)-> the deadband remained for two weeks until the temperature exceeded 0C for two days
Fourth flash (March 2014)-> flashed on a day with >0C temperatures, but the following two weeks were colder, the deadband did not disappear completely until the temperatures rose well above 0C


In all cases I drove to work daily and often did lots of other driving, certainly more than a dozen drive cycles a week.


Has anybody else noticed a bit more time to learn pedal scaling during winter vs. summer? Could this be a scaling routine not yet found in the ROM?

Same issue here and nothing seems to work, other than actually driving her around for a few days. Yes I did pump the throttle with the dashboard lit up.

What tune are you running? I'm looking to get into OFT but I am a NOOB. Any help would be great. Reading on here it seems the best is to run E85 Ecutek OFT.

Let me know where to start...

:thanks:

Right now I'm running just the stage 1 tune for premium fuel, E85 isn't easy to get here where I'm at right now. However I've got nothing but good things to say about the stage1 tune. The whole car feels much butter and pulls harder...really changes the whole character of the car.

Plus, I believe Shiv said that soon the tunes will be differentiated between 91 and 93 octane for the folks who still just use stage 1 but can get better than 91 in their area.

Hi,
Just to clarify, there is no such thing as an E85 Ecutek OFT. Ecutek is another tuning company that sells another tuning option which requires a laptop, software license, security dongle and cable. The OFT (OpenFlash Tablet) is something else entirely. If you haven't already, visit www.openflashtablet.com for more information or please email sales@vishnutunining.com if you have any questions in particular. Although I'm sure you can get answers on the forum since there are several hundred helpful OFT users who actively post in this forum. Of course, I'll try to help as well :)

Are you running headers or other upgrades with the OFT?

This is what i do after a flash or battery disconnect. Works like a charm every time..
1. flash tune.
2. start car, let idle for 60 seconds (colder climates idle till fully warmed up) - during that time do not touch throttle at all.
3. shut off car.
4. turn key to "Run", do not start car, press throttle completely to floor 15x.
5. start car.
6. go for drive with no pedal lag and enjoy sound of open flash headers :)

Not yet...but I plan on doing the open flash header somewhat soon. My next upgrade on the list is the Perrin Catback. Works out well if you buy it through the open flash site because you get a discount on it for being a previous customer.

Since I'm also noob to tuning, what is the expected afr if I'm all stock running oft stage 1 on 91? After a week of driving, my pedal lag finally disappeared!

So OP, how about trying this and letting the forum know if this is a proper solution. Would be helpful if it worked for sure.

It does not, at least not right away for me. From what I've read now of others' experiences it seems that this may work for some. I don't know if it's just that some ECU's learn slower than others or what.

I've read of some doing procedures just like that and it completely eliminates the delay. I've seen others do it and nothing really happens, it just takes time in that case.

When I most recently reflashed, I did this pretty much exact thing and it didn't really make a difference, YMMV.

You did this 'pretty much' exact or you did exactly this? Software is stupid, it needs to be exact to work.

Here is exactly what I did:

1. Flash Car
2. Turned car on and idled for 5 minutes
3. Turned car off.
4. Pressed 'Start' button twice without pressing clutch and fully pressed/depressed pedal 15 times
5. Turned car off.
6. Repeated #4.
7. Turned car off to finish 'flashing procedure'.

It seems to be what you did just more intense, does something look like it would cause an issue?

Was the car at operating temperature before you started your flash? I noticed that I've had no issues since I started flashing after I warmed the engine up first.

Make sure to "turn car off to finish flash" before step #2...


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I don't do number 2 until I am done with the pedal cal, then leave once vvti has done the cal after the startup sequence.

I quoted someone else. Yes, your steps from 5-8 are different than theirs. That's not the same. Software code is exact, there is no prize for close or sort of similar. Others seem to note some other differences in their procedures as well at step 2.

No, so this could have been one of the issues.

That's a good point. Next time I flash I'll follow that procedure exactly and be sure to have the engine warm before I flash as well.

For what it's worth, the issue is now gone...a little bit of time with daily driving seems to have fixed it. I appreciate all the replies. :thumbup:

Would this also be the cure for the VERY nonlinear throttle response in the 2013 car I got used?


Seems like I get about 25% power in the first half inch of throttle pedal movement and 90% of power in the first half of pedal movement. After that nothing more happens really. In a parking lot I have to be careful to barely touch the pedal or the car jumps ahead. I know Japanese cars tend to be this way, but this car seems worse and it is annoying and a little dangerous actually.


This is VERY different from my M3, which has a very linear and easy to control throttle.

The 'pump pedal x times' thing didn't work for me, until I did the following:

1. After flashing a new map, turn off car then disconnect OFT, as instructed by it.
2. Turn on ignition (press start button twice).
3. Pump throttle pedal 20-30 times in quick succession, making sure to go all the way down and all the way up.
4. Start the engine WITHOUT turning off ignition (3 & 4 should happen within one minute).
5. DO NOT touch the throttle until idle has settled down.

In my experience this cures about 80% of the throttle deadzone. Give it a try and see how it goes. :thumbup:

Same experience after coming from my previous Audi S3. Eventually I got used to it and when I test drove the new A3 I found the throttle response lethargic. :lol:If you get the OFT, the throttle does seem easier to modulate (probably because the engine runs smoother), and if you're really keen you can tweak the DBW maps to your liking.

Two questions:


1) if I am just retraining the ECU without installing new programming, how long does the battery have to be disconnected to make the ECU lose it's memory?


2) if the ECU is just learning the throw of the throttle pedal I'll be using, why does it matter if the engine is at operating temperature?


Thank you

I disconnected the battery for 10 minutes then did this (75 deg in LA now so just let the car idle for a few min until it was at ca 700 rpm and temp gauge was between bottom and next lines)


Not sure it made any difference in the throttle response but did make me aware that the total throttle throw in this car is much less than my other cars except the Fiat. So that's part of the issue-- what would be 10% throttle in my other cars is 20% or whatever in this one. I just need to keep that in mind and restrain my right foot. :)

1) Around 10 minutes.
2) If you drive off before the idle settles, VVTi may not work which will result in reduced response and power.

Lol, 10 minutes......

I had the same. Catless Megan Header, 93 octane. Installed OFT Stage 2+, car felt DEAD and slow.

Did the below a few times, then drove, completely different, car rips now. Still a slight dead spot, but need to put some miles on it before worrying further, as the ECU is obviously adjusting.

1. After flashing a new map, turn off car then disconnect OFT, as instructed by it.
2. Turn on ignition (press start button twice).
3. Pump throttle pedal 20-30 times in quick succession, making sure to go all the way down and all the way up.
4. Start the engine WITHOUT turning off ignition (3 & 4 should happen within one minute).
5. DO NOT touch the throttle until idle has settled down.