Real STI BREMBO package upgrade - DIY
 

So, guys...first of all, you need calipers from:

FRONT>>>>Impreza STI 2003+
REAR>>>>>Impreza STI 2008+


http://img849.imageshack.us/img849/3554/pq96.jpg

http://img833.imageshack.us/img833/9974/lq0hj.jpg

Warn! all STI calipers are black from 2008+

Therefore you need to paint them as Black like tS Model.

I suggest to sandblast and revise all calipers before to paint them.
Some bodyworks can "operate" usually up to 60°C (140F), calipers must be managed for 120°C (248F), 45 minutes. You need professionals for an "industrial" coating.

These calipers are compliant and plug 'n play.

!!! YOU NEED ONLY TO SWITCH BLEEDERS ON FRONT CALIPER FROM DOWN TO UP !!!!

Bolt of stock calipers, both front and rear, are fitting for 14mms wrench, STI are for 17mms.

Here are the stock rotor measures of BRZ Grade High, Europe (maybe Sport or Premium USA/CAN)

FRONT

Diameter 294
Height 57
Thickness 24
Min Thickness 22
Centre Hole Dia 58
Bolt Holes 5

REAR

Diameter 290
Height 64
Thickness 18
Min Thickness 16
C/Hole 58
Bolt holes 5

About new rotors fitting these calipers, you need on front (i.g. my Mod)

Diameter 326
Height 53
Thickness 30
Min Thickness 28
C/Hole 58
Bolt holes 5/10 (dual for DBA)

on Rear

Diameter 316
Height 63.5
Thickness 20
Min Thickness 18
C/Hole 58
Bolt holes 5/10 (dual for DBA42656)



If you choose DBA the right part code are:

front DBA4654 (XS)
rear DBA42656 (XS)
(XS are gold - mine - coated and with temperature strip checker )

WARN!!! you need rotor for rear only for Impreza WRX STI GRF (316x63.5 not 67.5) (as you can see here).

http://img829.imageshack.us/img829/4060/rv3q.png


Impreza WRX STI with Brembo Caliper (rear) runs on DBA4655 that are much higher (67.5 mms)

I found a special sale from a friend that have bought wrong model of DBA....the DBA4655.

You can solve this issue very easily....Yo need to have a new hub level and I solved this issue with an internal spacer (4 mms H - 125mms DIA - 5x100 PCD). If you need, I get the .DWG file to realize this spacer.


http://img703.imageshack.us/img703/3085/noc0.jpg

I gain 4 mm (gap between..) as ET...so I start before mod with ET35 and now I get ET31 (on 17" rims)

http://img856.imageshack.us/img856/5465/8n8x.jpg

http://img819.imageshack.us/img819/1346/w2z0.jpg

This way is fully plug 'n play (99,99% - you need only to remove backplate for FRONT rotors and lowering the external ring for the rear backplate) Bosch and Makita can help.....

http://img842.imageshack.us/img842/8008/phgg.png
http://img839.imageshack.us/img839/4994/tfw7.png
http://img27.imageshack.us/img27/3872/0vqg.jpg
http://img24.imageshack.us/img24/5585/2dkx.jpg
http://img856.imageshack.us/img856/6572/dy5z.jpg

About brake lines:
HEL Brake Line Kit - Subaru BRZ (With STI Brembos)

About pads:
Front - Pagid RS-15 (Grey) - code U2487
Rear - Ferodo Racing DS3000 - code FCP1562R

http://www.ferodoracing.it/scheda/pastiglia/cod/FCP1562


http://img62.imageshack.us/img62/4880/x64w.jpg
http://img24.imageshack.us/img24/585/4jx2.jpg
http://img854.imageshack.us/img854/7971/8c2h.jpg
http://img834.imageshack.us/img834/1005/x598.jpg
http://img841.imageshack.us/img841/6726/dmw9.jpg
http://img22.imageshack.us/img22/2360/bcqq.jpg
http://img854.imageshack.us/img854/6163/i2s2.jpg
http://img834.imageshack.us/img834/9456/ks98.jpg
http://img812.imageshack.us/img812/4053/koan.jpg
http://img23.imageshack.us/img23/7937/n4lb.jpg
http://img811.imageshack.us/img811/5551/1won.jpg
http://img812.imageshack.us/img812/8389/6d0j.jpg
http://img713.imageshack.us/img713/3980/ro0j.jpg
http://img811.imageshack.us/img811/2100/0cw9.jpg
http://img534.imageshack.us/img534/1350/chcx.jpg
http://img46.imageshack.us/img46/1561/nz7f.jpg
http://img845.imageshack.us/img845/3025/lc6r.jpg
http://img824.imageshack.us/img824/5112/7sdg.jpg

sticky please!

thanks for the great writeup

When removing front backplates you can install front carbon vent brake (Impreza WRX STI) and ducting tube (60mms DIA).

http://img809.imageshack.us/img809/2939/ob0g.jpg

You have a total cost for this DIY? :D

this

I run DBA 4000 slotted on FRONT with 08 calipers but did not remove the backshield..
They wont contact.....

op is in italy, his costs will be different that ours.

that said,

cost will be heavily dependent on the deal you find on calipers and rotors. Prices on brembo calipers can vary pretty widely from used private sale, ebay part out vendor, or new. Lot of times used ones will include usable pads and rotors. new calipers don't include bolts. Couple years back I put new f/r brembos, new dba 4000 rotors, new pads, new bolts, new lines and rear parking brake adaptor on my forester, total cost ended up lets say maybe a bit under 2k range, and that was because i got the calipers cheap (for new) and rotors as a clearance.

price could literally vary from 1k-2.5+ depending on deal found and specific path taken. there are many rotors available in sti fitment and they vary huge in price.

Uggghhhh those brakes look nice with a raw finish.

About the cost , here in Italy.

Here is very very difficult to find spare parts from WRX STI and to find STI rear calipers is a very big win.

-Front calipers bought from a friend of mine (Subaru Impreza WRX STI 2005 , Brembo GOLD) Eur 450.00 with brake lines Impreza STI Brembo Goodridge (not used, for spare. A bonus for future!)
-Rear calipers bought with referrals of another friend (Subaru Impreza WRX STI 2008 . Brembo black) Eur 290.00

All calipers with brackets and bolts.

-Hell brake lines from UK £55.00
-Rotors….the BIG Deal…bought on Ebay in Italy near Slovenjia from a man with a wrong buy as the WRX STI he bought was already 5x114.3!! Eur 440.00 (4 rotors)
-Sandblasting and full warranty revision and rebuild after coating (1 year) Eur 400.00
-Coating…from some friends of mine(Industrial marine and automotive coating,, they work for Ferrari) Eur 20,00 each
-Spacer…a gift, no pay.

The total amount is therefore: EUR 1,726.00 ( USD 2,373.00) pads excluded.


I might have had the chance to sandblast only a pair of calipers thus 2 were black already and save Eur 200.00 (Eur 1,526.00/USD 2,098.00) but notwithstanding the good condition of calipers I decided to have them like refurbished.

You can add Eur 30.00 for Oil (RBF660F).

-For pads , the front Pagids from Germany cost Eur 279.00 and rear of Ferodo from UK £185.00. So, the total for pads is Eur 502.00 (USD 690.00)

Install, free of charge as this is a my DIY

So, my full STI Brembo (6 pots) costs Eur 2.258,50/USD 3,106.00

I don't know if is a great saving in comparison with other brake system. About Brembo quality is no matter, no doubt. Mine are new now in all components. I saw some kit from USA (StopTech and AP Racing first of all) but I should have had to pay much more including custom charges and a VAT (+30/33%)

About braking, I find them very impressive for windily roads and some track days. A good ratio between cost/earning.

Maybe probably it depends from the model (grade) you own. Here we have rotors much wider than US base model and stock caliper brackets may have some differences.

seems like US model is the cheapest one...:mad0259:

...I paid plated my BRZ, late in June Eur 28.800,00 Eur (USD 39,625.00) 6MT, rebate of 6% - Italian price is Eur 30.450,00 (USD 41,895.00) and our Grade is HIGH with full optionals, similar to your US Limited but we have included Fog Light Kit, DRL, Deck Lid Spoiler, excluded Auto-Dimming Mirror with Compass and Homelink.
No leather/alcantara seats available in Italy and no AT, no Car Navi and only 6MT, only 17" rims.

US price is very lower...and cheaper...

Nice!

Damn but for 3.1K why wouldn't someone just get some wilwoods or new brembos?
Just a question, not hating lol :thumbup:

3.1 is for both front and rear. Brembos would cost about 4k, wilwoods would cost about the samet

Wish I had read your post earlier as I have DBA-4655-10 multistud. I don't really understand what you mean by adding spacers to fit the rotors, will it not physically bolt on the HUB without spacers? Can you please point me to the right direction?

You should probably take a look at the used market for sti brembos in the us.

There are always tons on eBay from parters, and with patience, effort and luck better deals can be found on Nasioc.


Op, are you saying the difference between the old sti style rear rotor and new (bolt pattern aside) is a 4 mm x125mm spacer? I've been meaning to look up the actual difference, if so. That's awesome, makes pulling the full set from my forester much more appealing since the rear rotors would not be useless.

so, for all
installing calipers coming from wrx sti 2008 if you get rotors dba4655 (no matter about pcd measures) H is 67.5 mms. on BRZ limited usa or sport europe the rotor stop too near to hub brackets and there isn't enough slot for the pad (internal). you need rotors dba42656 that they are H 63.5mms.
the only solution is to reduce internal quote for 4mms when using dba4655 and best option is to fits them with a spacer of 125.00mms like hub, and 4mms as High.


Inviato da mio iPhone usando Tapatalk

so, for all
installing calipers coming from wrx sti 2008 if you get rotors dba4655 (no matter about pcd measures 100 or 114.3) H is 67.5 mms. On BRZ limited usa or sport europe the rotor stop too much near vs hub brackets and there isn't enough slot for the pad (internal). You need rotors dba42656 that they are H 63.5mms.
the only solution is to reduce internal quote for 4mms when using dba4655 and best option is to fits them with a spacer of 125.00mms DIA like hub, and 4mms as High.
I think that AUS version of BRZ /GT has the same measures of Sport Europe or Limited USA, so the stock rear calipers are the same and therefore same brackets and you need a DBA with H of 63.5 mms (not the DBA4655 5-10- 67.5 mms).

I did mine last weekend. Wasn't able to swap the bleeders over. Stripped one of the hex plugs, and didn't try the others. Will take to a machine shop later to have done.

I'm curious to know what you guys did about the banjo bolt mounts on the front calipers. The posts which stop it rotation are facing the wrong direction.

In my case, I just bolted it up facing the other way, and have it hard up against the posts on the other side, so if it spins at all, the only thing that can happen is it gets tighter.

I know others will disagree with me, but when I installed my Brembo I didn't bother to swap the bleeders over. Doing it this way means that my brake lines will be safely secured by the posts and I don't ever have to worry about it moving (however unlikely it is). I've had the brakes on now for about a month, and did lots of hard braking since, but when I removed my front pads last weekend I didn't notice any uneven wear. I guess time will tell how fast my front pads will wear out....compared to running the calipers the "proper" way round.

Thanks for the feedback mate! I'll touch base with you again in a month or so to see how your pads are wearing. I'm very tempted to swap sides due to the post issue.

No worries. I'm actually removing them next month to have them re-sprayed :D. So I'll be able to have another good look at the front pads again.

Any updates on how these are holding up ?

I know I'm a little late on this but for the rotors do you have to use the front DBA4654 (XS)
rear DBA42656 (XS) or could you just get the the regular the DBA4654
rear DBA42656 I just want slotted and it seems the XS make it drilled and slotted

you can get DBA42656S-10 for rear and DBA4654S-10 for front
they are slotted only

thanks a lot for the info! i'm doing the same update at the moment. do you rekon it's better to powdercoat the calipers as once piece or disassembled?

anyone know where I can buy a bleeder plug? not the bleeder bolt, it's the one on the other side that blocks the bleeder hole, I striped it while swapping the bleeders, but couldn't find any replacement plug online.

Great write up!! Thank you for this! :thumbsup:

Sorry for the big bump.

I’m currently doing this swap and am in the process of restoring my 08+ (black) sti calipers.

I’ve bought an OEM seal replacement kit as the dust boot was torn.

I’ve removed the pistons and want some reassurance or warning of whether they as safe to reuse (as I can’t source a placement locally and the cost including shipping is ridiculously high).
The outer surface of all the pistons are completely smooth and unscuffed, there is some slight scuffing on the bottom of the piston where it curves inwards (I don’t mean the base of the piston where it’s flat)I don’t believe this part makes contact with the outer wall. The scuffing is very minimal and I didn’t even notice it until closely examining each piston under a light. I don’t know how they would have even been caused either as they were already there when I removed the piston.

Will it fine as it isn’t the surface that touches the walls? Should I/ can I sand it slightly for peace of mind? It’s not sharp of rough but I can feel it slightly with my fingernail

Whilst I’m here is there any process people do to clean the insides of where the pistons sit outside of just a cloth and brake cleaner? After wiping the inside thoroughly it still looks dirty although it feels smooth and there’s nothing on my finger if I rub around the inside.

I’ll post a picture when I’m home

Also a warning to people buying STI brembos (especially now for those looking to put them on the GEN 2)- there are Ali baba manufactures who make almost identical replica calipers that people paint and sell as refurbished OEM calipers. I had no idea this was a thing and fell victim to it.

I picked up on it a few days later and since I bought it from the guys house I was able to go there and confront him about it. But yea be cautious of people selling them rebuilt

Not trying to burst your bubble. The STI front calipers have a 40mm leading piston and a 42mm trailing piston. This is for more even pad pressure and wear. The calipers mount on the rear of the wheel stub axle on a WRX Sti.
When you fit these calipers to a BRZ/86 they mount on the front of the stub axle. So you have to put the left caliper on the right side to invert the bleeder valves to point upwards.
THIS IS EXTREMELY WRONG THEY DO NOT FIT BOLT UP PROPERLY THE LARGER PISTON NOW LEADS. See your picture. Not hear to argue or tell you about brake physics. Although it will work but not as designed.

Is that not the reason why people flip the bleeders? I don’t mean inverting the left caliper to the right as you described, I mean removing the bleeder, and the block off bolt and swapping them

That's right!
It was sentenced
!! YOU NEED ONLY TO SWITCH BLEEDERS ON FRONT CALIPER FROM DOWN TO UP !!!!

only reading as well as...

whilst looking on a thread I saw this (what looks to be) official Subaru document that detailed the changes made for the updated 2017 model. I found the paragraph about the brembo interesting as it doesn’t really seem to distinguish the performance package brembos as seperate to the WRX sti brembos.

Saw a lot of comments regarding the safety of sti calipers and how they’re dangerous to run as they’re completely redeveloped specifically for the BRZ/86 - and are completely different from using flipped STI calipers, when this document doesn’t entirely support that…

Note the second last sentence where they essentially say they are the wrx sti calipers painted red. Again I know they’re not the EXACT same but my point is I don’t see why they would even mention the STI calipers if these were developed from the ground up and were specific to the twins outside of the necessary rotor/ piston order changes to run them.
https://i.ibb.co/P1Qby9P/146-CCA32-C...8-EE284989.jpg

WRX STI Brembos are only drilled one end, only the bleeder is fitted. They have no block off cap or a joiner tube on the other end.

Are you talking about where the bleeder valves go? Because there is a block off cap at the opposite end that can be removed and swapped to the other end of the caliper. Unless it’s different for the pre-2008 STI calipers

Finished the install of my reconditioned Black STI Brembos. I kept the original bleeders valves and pistons but replaced the seals and dustboots (was a huge pain to do compared to how people made it look on YouTube). Only real issue I ran into was getting a couple of the dust boots to fit flush, and there was an issue with the bleeder valve leaking brake fluid. Was able to stop the leak but the bolt was torqued down significantly harder than recommended. Not sure if it’s an issue with the caliper or the bleeder bolt itself as it was reused with just a vinegar bath to clean it up abit.

In terms of brake feel, if I’m honest it doesn’t feel that much different to stock. I didn’t have any adjustment period to get used to the brakes like it is when you drive someone else’s car. Felt the same as stock just smoother and slightly more precise/ firm as you come to a complete stock. Not mad about it as I liked the stock brake feel and was worried these would be too harsh. I swapped front and rear rotors, pads and added braided steel lines so I was expecting a more drastic feeling. I’m not running particularly harsh pads though so that could be why. Just standard brembo pads for the STI caliper, and DBA street pads in the rear.

I got the calipers fairly cheap so I don’t regret the swap. But I wouldn’t recommend this particular swap if your primary goal is performance. Probably be better looking at AP racing brakes
https://i.ibb.co/2Nfc0sy/241064-D7-F...E37-CDBFC8.jpg

Genuine WRX STI BREMBO ^^^

I think many people expect that larger calipers will increase the stopping power however there will be no difference to the oem units.
The 'performance' that larger calipers afford is the increased ability to repeatedly brake.