Winmax USA Brake Pads - Street, Autocross, Track, Endurance!
 

Just wanted to let you guys know there is another brake pad manufacturer on the block! We've been a huge proponent of testing product profusely to understand the pros/cons of each item. We wanted to let you guys know we've been testing brake pads from Winmax USA and were impressed with the modulation, feel, and brake potential of the brake compounds.

As some of you may know, Winmax has been producing OEM and racing brake pads since the 1960s. Recently, they have decided to bring their experiences and data from the OEM and racing markets and come out with brake pads for the tuning market.

There are 8 different compounds available for every type of driving application you can imagine:

W1 - Sports - OE Replacement
W2 - Sports - Performance / AutoX
W3 - Sports Circuit - AutoX
W4 - Circuit - AutoX / Novice Track
W5 - Race/Rally - HPDE/Track
W6 - Race/Rally - Advanced Track
WE1 - Endurance - Racecar

Winmax W1 & W2 compounds
http://counterspacegarage.com/media/...arts_w1_w2.jpg

http://counterspacegarage.com/media/...hart_w1_w2.jpg


Winmax W3 compound
http://counterspacegarage.com/media/.../charts_w3.jpg

http://counterspacegarage.com/media/...ndchart_w3.jpg

Winmax W4 compound
http://counterspacegarage.com/media/.../charts_w4.jpg

http://counterspacegarage.com/media/...ndchart_w4.jpg


Winmax W5, W6, and WE1 compound
http://counterspacegarage.com/media/.../charts_w5.jpg

http://counterspacegarage.com/media/.../charts_w7.jpg

http://counterspacegarage.com/media/...ndchart_w5.jpg


Don't hesitate to contact us @CounterSpace Garage regarding these compound types and application for your specific setup! :thumbsup:

W3 looks like a great street pad in the vain of Porterfield R4S, Ferodo DS2500, etc.

Any comments in a comparison against those pads, @CSG David?

W3 is a direct competitor against PF R4S and Ferodo DS2500. The pads in that particular realm is like choosing lug nut colors. The pads all work well for their intended purpose, but have slight variations in terms of feel and how the pad ramps up. Operating temperatures are similar. The W3, like R4S and DS2500, is definitely good for autocross, but I wouldn't run them on track as they quickly diminish in performance when you're hitting the upper ends of the operating temperature.

Deleted master cylinder? For when there isn't sufficient vacuum to make it whether keeping guessing?

How do the W4/W5 compare to the Project My HC+800 for mixed street and novice track usage?

I'll try the W6 or W7 after I burn through my next set of PMU Club Racers.

W7 is is meant for cars with brake proportioning valves.

W4 is more comparable to HC+800 than the W5. The W5 is closer to a XP10 or Club Racer.

W5 or W6 would be a better setup. Run non-staggered.


To all, we got a group buy going on. US residents in the 48 continental states get free shipping. PM me if you're interested for out of country shipments. :thumbsup:

Opinions on the w4 vs. Hc+800? I though I had decided on a set but this is an optiion I wasnt aware of.

It will be autox/hpde and its my frist year. Im running Bridgestone Potenza s-04 on stock power if any of the makes a difference. @CSG Mike @CSG David

HC+800 has a stronger initial bite. W4 has a more linear braking characteristic. Both are good at what they're meant for. Keep in mind, it's a hybrid pad and not a full track pad or a full street pad so there are pros/cons for their particular compound make up.

W1/W2 are great for street/daily usage. Minimal dust and no noise

Unless you are pushing your car as hard as the CSG guys are, you don't really need more than W4. I've been using the Japanese Winmax Arma AP2 which is a compound between W3/W4 and they've been working great. But again, I not tracking at the level the CSG guys are. Someday...

W7's might be a tad too aggressive for your normal BRZ/FRS IMO. Back in the day I loved massive initial bite but it can make it harder to control/modulate properly in my experience. I actually prefer a pad that's consistent across the temp range. That's what I LOVE about the CL pads actually.

I am excited a little about the WE1s maybe in Integra fitment for the chumpcar. They appear very inconsistent until you consider the car does 2 hour stints in actual racing conditions so brakes temps don't vary as much..

For these I think the average BRZ/FRS track driver would be good with the W4-W6 range, the W5 look good except for the rotor wear part. I wish the W6 were a bit more consistent.

This is all based on graphs and stuff though. :)

CSG pushes their brakes? LOL!!!! ;)

I still hold the record for destroying an AP rotor first haha

The W4 works fine for people looking to start tracking, but our W4 brakes were smoking when we pulled off track. The funny part was despite being massively over the operating temperature, they didn't really "die" or "fade" hardcore. They do, however, don't bite particularly hard so you need to really be mindful of your braking points.

The W5 and W6 work well for the EHP and R-comps.


LMAO! :lol: And we hold the record for how many pieces a rotor can be blown into on a street car. :respekt:

How would you compare the W3 and W4 pads for autox duty on street tire? Price shipped to 91206?

Recommend W3 for autocross duty on street tire or R-comps. For those looking for an entry into autocross with better bite and modulation on street tires on near stock car, W2 is good as well. PM'd you pricing even though GB information is posted in GB section. :)

W4 will have less bite and max temp capacity than the HC+800. You can't go wrong with either since you're a less experienced driver, but be prepared to need a higher grade pad by the time you finish off your first set ( it'll take a while! )

Why no ceramic?

I was looking at cl5+ and they have the pros of steel pad
But less cons in general ( dust,noise,durability) just the price is higher IMHO.

What's your opinion compared to these new solution. @CSG Mike

We carry the full line of CL pads. Which Winmax are you trying to compare them to?

I like lapping in a W4; they stay consistent throughout the entire temperature range, and are very easy to modulate. I'd personally prefer more bite, but the W4's consistency is it's outstanding characteristic.

Very nice! hows the pricing on the WE1 vs W5?

Was comparing them to w2-w3-w4.
CL pad are quite expensive but awesome in my opinion what pad of win max would come closer to the cl5+? why winmax is not selling any ceramic pads?
@CSG Mike

I'm the wrong person to ask... ask WinMax :D

Just added WE1 to the website and GB thread. Don't you use CL6E for endurance though? I know CT RP2 and PMU Racing Sintered are comparable.

Race car normally runs raybestos ST42. Great pad life.

Race car also doesn't have an engine right now.

You may have given away too many secrets about how you cut weight off your racecars. :lol:

Which brake pads should I get for street? Winamx W1, Stock brake pads, or Stoptech?

Winmax W1 and W2 are good OE replacement brake pads with much better bite. Stoptech is a good brake pad solution as well. W1 will be the direct OE replacement similar to Project Mu Type NS400 and Carbotech 1521 where dust is very minimal and noise is non-existent.

That's ok, few SE Chumpcar guys are on here lol

David already answered you, but what do you find lacking about the OEM pads? What specifically do you care about? What aspect of a performance pad would be most annoying to you? (ie dust, noise, etc)

Yowza! :eyebulge: I guess there is quite the premium for longevity.

Let's say first place gets $1,500, second gets $500. Is it worth an extra 5-10 minute pit stop? :)

I mostly care about the lifespan of them. The OEM didn't last for me, and I know it depends on how I drive. I've had 3 encounters on the freeway where I had to brake extra hard. Plus, I find that I get annoyed from the noise. I was also looking into the W1 because of the lifespan.

Lifespan can be a function of how much you use your brakes because you're not getting nearly enough braking that you need. This causes you to ride your brakes a little more and thus, wear quicker. Honestly, W2 will probably work a little better for your application as it provides a little more sportiness, but yields close to OE characteristics. As with any performance pad, you will run into the possible situation of noise. Bed them in like a rockstar and you'll be perfectly fine. I mean I run full race pads on my daily driver that I use to commute all over socal and have no issues right now. :thumbsup:

Standard sprint race pads will not last for endurance purposes. The compound makeup is different and gets "activated" in its optimal temperature range. Anything outside of that has poor bite and wear on both the pad and disc. That's basically what an endurance pad is. Oh...and they're noisy as hell like a truck trying to stop...

Sorry to hijack but I didn't want to create another thread just to ask these question:

1) What is the best way to bed-in new pads (say W1 or Stoptech SP) on a used disc? Discs are slotted, and in good condition since only recently installed.

2) Do I need to remove the old transfer layer?

3) What is the easiest way of removing this transfer layer?

4) Any negatives if I don't remove old transfer layer?

1. Like any brake pad, you will need to warm up the rotors properly and then do repeated quick deceleration from a decent velocity to a relatively slow velocity (close to stopping by still moving) without engaging ABS until you feel a hint a fade. After a good cool down without using your brakes, you can park the car and you should see a hint of color on the rotors as some indicator.

2. Not really.

3. Scotch brite, a track brake pad without using the brake pedal during cruising, or turning the rotor on the lathe.

4. Your pads may or may not wear as evenly and your brakes will not be in its "optimal" state. To be honest, all you really need to focus on is bedding your brake pads properly. We provide bed in instructions with our brake orders. :thumbsup:

The CLs aren't any noisier then their other pads. Every pad is loud on my BRZ.

<< all of my cars also run race pads all the time ;)

When ya put in yer new pads, drive around on 'em for a week (without hard braking) before you bed them in. This will accomplish number 3 and prevent any pad deposits (#4) that can cause vibrations in the pedal.

Waiting for my W4s to be installed all around with Spiegler lines and RT700 fluid.

so far the front rotors have been resurfaced with the W4 front pads on and stock old fluid.

even with this I can notice the lack of bite compared to oem but the consitency and overall performance is simply amazing! (mind you the old fluid is 30k old so it wasnt consistent for long haha)

still need to resurface the rears, install rear pads and then flush out the old fluid and install the lines. should be interesting :)

and I have not heard any noise since properly bedding them in ;)

The Winmax don't "bite" or "grab" hard when you get on the brakes. It's a whole different characteristic and requires you to change your braking style a little bit. What's nice is it teaches you how to be very smooth on the brakes. :thumbsup:

You got a point there.

So would you guys not recommend using endurance pads for sprint purposes? Even if noise is a non-issue? I figure I could be very deliberate on the warmup lap to put enough heat in them and the temps should be good for the rest of the laps. Good strategy or no?