Originally Posted by kster1 (Post 1508361)

I'd be interested in seeing aerodynamic parts on the front and rear of the car and their impact on lap times. The Voltex rear wing would be a good start to see what it does alone, and then again compared with some aero help in the front.

Originally Posted by Reaper (Post 1508490)

whatever the most inexpensive BBK is right now

Originally Posted by buddy32 (Post 1508348)

Seems like not a whole lot of people turbo-ing at the track. I know you guys are testing the JR supercharger, but maybe a turbo as well?

Originally Posted by ImperiousRex (Post 1509003)

This is precisely why I went with a turbo in my car and in the past 4 months, it's been tested quite a bit on track (over 10 track events in that time). Mike has a good amount of seat time in my car both for development and competition (he finished 3rd in the Street RWD class in the last GTA/Super Lap Battle Finale using my car). If you have specific questions, I'm sure he can answer many of them.

Also now that the CSG car is running the JR SC kit, we should have many good days to compare SC vs. Turbo on the same tracks on the same days.

Originally Posted by CSG Mike (Post 1506965)

Open ended question.

I'll take the popular submissions up with the boss.

Originally Posted by kster1 (Post 1508361)

I'd be interested in seeing aerodynamic parts on the front and rear of the car and their impact on lap times. The Voltex rear wing would be a good start to see what it does alone, and then again compared with some aero help in the front.

Originally Posted by 7thgear (Post 1508397)

i'd like to see the car on a set of high end coilovers, tuned perfectly for the car, but at OEM ride height. No 3rd party aero.

I'm convinced that modiying the springrate slightly for balance, while maintaining a long damper travel with state of the art dampening will yield a grippy car (if driven right) assuming street tires and no aero.

Originally Posted by DarkSunrise (Post 1508403)

Robispec front LCAs

Originally Posted by smbstyle (Post 1508411)

second the turbo idea, just to see how it holds up compared to the JR kit, and then some real world aero testing.

I'd like a good track tire comparison with data (got an AIM solo or something?)

Originally Posted by CSG Mike (Post 1509694)

That makes no sense. Keeping the car at stock height means you'll have no droop travel unless you're using REALLY low spring rates. Then you get terrible transition times from the roll travel. A way overdamped car will ride like crap, and still be faster around a track.

Originally Posted by King Tut (Post 1509660)

How much power would you say you lose from the start of the lap to the end of the lap with that turbo?

Originally Posted by ImperiousRex (Post 1509772)

I'm going to be posting something very soon in my build journal that shows exactly what's going on with the heat soak. I meant to post it a few weeks ago but I've been working with Mike and Evasive on getting several solutions to keep the engine bay temps down and they just wrapped up yesterday and we'll be testing them on track this weekend. So keep an eye out for my journal update ;)

Originally Posted by 7thgear (Post 1509752)

so OEM car in it's stock form has no droop travel? How in the world did it get voted best driving car then :/


I don't mean to use short shocks for this, get something like B6's, valved to something from GC lets say, corner balanced and kept at around oem height.

Originally Posted by CSG Mike (Post 1509795)

Shall I schedule some more dyno time? :D

Originally Posted by ImperiousRex (Post 1509812)

Only if I can hit a 1:26 at streets - otherwise it's back to the drawing board! ;)

Originally Posted by CSG Mike (Post 1509694)

Tire comparison... already been done.

http://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/8391...s-dunlop-z1ss/

Originally Posted by smbstyle (Post 1509851)

I wanna see NT01 vs Hankook TD!

Originally Posted by CSG Mike (Post 1509855)

TD's are faster... and drop off faster, and overheat faster.

No way I can justify $1600 in consumables to the boss strictly to see which is faster, when we already know the answer

Originally Posted by smbstyle (Post 1509876)

Don't let him know you already know........ :D

I'm out of ideas. lol

Originally Posted by Reaper (Post 1508490)

splitter and aero testing, whatever the most inexpensive BBK is right now and if a vented hood is better than a radiator and oil cooler

Originally Posted by 7thgear (Post 1508495)

what does that even mean

Originally Posted by CSG Mike (Post 1509796)

I'm just saying with OEM height and near-oem spring rates, there's just no benefit. You'll gain a ton of ride quality, but minimal performance.

Originally Posted by Reaper (Post 1509993)

Yes i understand that. I was reffering to ap vs stoptech vs oem sti brembos.

Originally Posted by 7thgear (Post 1510016)

okay, I won't get into it but then how about just the new Bilstein HDs and OEM springs and see how that rides on a track vs lets say Konis and a normal coilover.


ie, how much is the lower cg and stiffer spring giving you vs a dampening benefit.

Originally Posted by CSG Mike (Post 1510058)

Isnt the point to either a) substantially improve ride quality or b) substantially improve performance?

Originally Posted by normancw (Post 1511098)

It would be great to test the effectiveness of brake ducts - maybe the APR brake duct kit ($600) with backing plates while you still have the stock calipers on the BRZ.

You could install, do some laps, measure temps, and record impressions. Then block them off and repeat.

Once you upgrade to the AP Endurance BBK, you can do the same test (connecting to the APR hose to the built in duct attachment in the Endurance caliper bracket). This would direct air to the center of the disc, vs the side for the APR backing plates.

Another alternative (with the stock calipers) is the TF brake duct kit with backing plates ($340) that direct air to the center of the discs (hub area). If you already have the APR inlet ducts and hose installed, you could reuse them to test with the TF backing plate.

Originally Posted by normancw (Post 1511098)

It would be great to test the effectiveness of brake ducts - maybe the APR brake duct kit ($600) with backing plates while you still have the stock calipers on the BRZ.

You could install, do some laps, measure temps, and record impressions. Then block them off and repeat.

Once you upgrade to the AP Endurance BBK, you can do the same test (connecting to the APR hose to the built in duct attachment in the Endurance caliper bracket). This would direct air to the center of the disc, vs the side for the APR backing plates.

Another alternative (with the stock calipers) is the TF brake duct kit with backing plates ($340) that direct air to the center of the discs (hub area). If you already have the APR inlet ducts and hose installed, you could reuse them to test with the TF backing plate.