RacerX Upper Control Arms Review
 

We have been busy lately but when contacted by @DesertFrs (Jose) about the RacerX Fabrication's rear upper control arms ( @racerx1715 ) and if we would perform the install we couldn’t resist. We talked about which arms they had available (bushing or spherical joints) Jose chose the spherical joints. The parts came in and we did the install today. This will be our first impression (pros and cons) of the arms from install and how they changed the vehicle.

Upon removing the arms from the box we noted RacerX really did their homework. The welds looked amazing, joints moved freely and the spacers had a great fit. We then started the install. We took the time to take photos during the install as you will see at the bottom of the write up.

Install:

After jacking up the car and removing the wheels, we started removing the stock upper control arms. Toyota/Subaru used thread locks on the bolts so it took a bit more effort to remove. Once you loosened the bolts, the arm comes out without a problem. We compared the two arms side by side. RacerX did a great job at matching the mounting locations and curve to the stock arms. When we installed the RacerX arms, the inner mounts installed without a problem. Not the same as the knuckle end. Due to the coating on the knuckle we had to use a dead blow hammer to install the joint. This was the fun part, as the only way to set the camber is to remove the joint, make the adjustment, than reinstall. We took the time to take some camber readings before removing the stock arms, we started with 3.5 turns from max camber which is same as stock. We than had to remove the joint, to make the adjustment. To do this we used a hammer and a short poll to get the joint out. Once removed we tightened the joint 1 full turn and reinstalled. Our second attempt was spot on. 1 full turn showed a .5 degree change in camber.

After setting the camber and reinstalling the wires for the ABS, we noticed the stock bracket does not line up. We had to bend the inner mounting tab straight so we could install the bolt. Thats when we noticed a second problem, the mounting location is too high and puts the ABS wire in a location that could contact the chassis. Not a major problem as long as you bend the bracket to make some clearance (we contacted RacerX and they are going to look into a solution for this error). Install the wheels and repeat on the opposite side. RacerX really took the time to make sure their arms were a perfect match. During the install of the second side, we repeated the joint install with the same amount of turns and did not have to remove the joint.

After returning the vehicle to the ground we began the alignment. Unlike a lower control arm the toe did not change much and the wheel was still centered within the fender well. We set the car to -2 degrees of camber and 1/16” toe out.

With the alignment completed we took the car for a test drive. We expected an increases in road noise from the spherical joints but to our surprise the car sounded as if we never changed the arms (test drive was completed with the rear seat down). Just another sign of the quality work from RacerX.


Pro's:

1. Quality craftsmanship
2. Easy installation (even without instructions)
3. Everything needed to perform the install is provided
4.Design allows for easy replacement of the spherical joints if needed
5. Does not upset the toe like a lower control arm
6. Made in the USA

Con’s

1. ABS bracket fitment (we are sure this will be addressed)
2. The joint at the hub is a tight fit, requiring a hammer to install and remove. Not much of a con as we would rather have it tighter then looser. It’s nothing like the stock fitment.
3. Needs to be installed by someone with the ability to align the car during the install
4. Not alignment shop friendly. Due to the joint needing to be removed, there will be only a few select shop that will align your car. Those that do may charge extra for the time needed to make the adjustment.

With experience in racing and having tested several custom fabricated arms (on different platforms) RacerX arms a front runner with their quality control, everything from spot on fitment, great welds and easy install. Topped off with great customer care and a product made in the USA. We would recommend RacerX rear upper camber kit to anyone wanting the ability to adjust the rear camber.

****Disclaimer****
These are Double Apex Motorsports (DAMotorsports) views and findings on RacerX rear upper control arms. We do not work for or have any claim to RacerX and their product. Our only desirer is to help provided information about RacerX. Thank you for reviewing this thread and we hope this information assists you in your selection.

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Thanks for the detailed write-up. These look like a great bit of kit. I may have to pick up a set.

Nice write up. Just thought id add, apart from a performance standpoint, These arms give a ton of clearance when dialing in negative camber as opposed to the lower arms. The RacerX uppers tilt the top of the wheel inwards while Any lower arm kicks out the bottom of the wheel giving the same angle but not as much fender clearance

Finally. I greatly prefer adjustable UCAs over LCAs. Too bad I don't track the BRZed anymore.

Thank you @SLICVIC! This is the reason we advised the owner to order the UCA's. He had some rubbing with his setup and after adding some camber he is in love with both the look and how it handles. If your are planning a static drop look and need more clearance this is the best option.

I dig that solid outer ball joint. Are the inner joints solid/bearings too? (can't tell buy the angle of the pic). Looks true race quality (reminds me of long-travel desert/baja truck control arms)

It's also great that it doesn't mess with toe settings when changing camber too!

Sux tho to read that it's still hard to adjust for a general alignment shop. I can see how that'd hard with the inner bushings; but from the pics, it looks much easier since the adjustment is on the outer joint instead ..they shoulda designed it so you don't need to remove the joint and so u can just adjust it while it's on the arm still..u sure you need to remove the joiny from the arm to adjust? ..it looks like it was designed to be easy from the internet pics (but I guess you'd have to see it in person).

^^ Space reasons I would bet, to make it adjustable without removing the arm from the knuckle you need a piece of threaded rod that is threaded left on one side and right on the other, then a jamb nut to keep it from spinning once you're happy with the setting. It's nothing hard, but it would take up a lot more space and from the look of the arms there isn't any room to accommodate it?

off topic from the product in question, but what alignment tool are you using?

Update for Rear upper control arms.
 

Robert was nice enough to contact us after the installation and voicing his potential concern with the brake line bracket that is connected to the upper control arms. We have not had any issues to date with the the brake line contacting the chassis, but to be proactive we changed the fastener bracket at the back of the upper control arms. This updated design will lower the brake bracket about 1" lower away from the frame and provide additional clearance.

Thanks for the write up!! We always appreciate feedback.

http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/c...ps89781530.jpg

http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/c...psbadd125a.jpg

How do you adjust these Uca to get negative camber? Sorry I'm just a little confused.

No problem, When we build the control arms we have the rod end threaded out. When installing the arm the rod end will be threaded into the weld insert further providing negative camber. Make sense??

An advantage to their approach is that, should the jamb nut work itself loose, the assembly can only move so far. There is no danger of the thing working itself loose while flying around a track.

So stock length is maxed negetive camber?



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

No.

Shortening the arm (threading it in further) will add negative camber. Lengthening the arm will add positive camber.

IIRC, the adjustment range goes both positive and negative on these arms so you can remove or add as desired.

Yes, our upper control arms can provide positive or negative camber.

HELP! Did the ball joint go all the way in?? Or does it only sit in like 3/4 way in?!? Bc I'm not 100% sure and I'm worried that I'll have a ball joint falling out when im driving

The rod end stud should sit almost flush with the top of the knuckle, be sure that the pinch bolt engages into the stud and you should be good to go.

If you have any more questions feel free to email: tech@racerxfabrication.com

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Like in this picture correct?

Yes.

Awesome! Then I am done. Thanks a bunch and I hope to get some more suspension from you guys soon!

Is there a install on the front lcas? The chromoly anodized 700$ ones lol

I finally got around to installing my rear UCAs (version 1) a few weeks ago when I put my coilovers back on. Easy install really. If you hammer a small wedge into the ball joint capture bolt area the ball joint goes in and out very easily. Only issue I had was the stock bolt stripped when loosening it on one side. So I had to make a run for another bolt with the same shank area.

The spot welds on the ABS bracket on mine were weak and I ended up snapping one of them off without much force at all. Had to be careful on the others.

We have a very good alignment shop here who had no issues with popping the ball joint out, but they were kind of surprised as it is the first time they have seen UCAs on a twin or Subaru for that matter, with the WRX/STI over the last few years using the same suspension. They still just charged me $99 for a custom alignment with me sitting in the car, great shop. Gran Turismo East in Atlanta. I was able to get right at -2 with them turned in once from the shipping length and the car dropped about an inch.

quick questions

with the Upper Control Arm, if I drop the car let's say 2 or 3 inches.

and I play with the UCA to adjust camber, to agressive track setting.

1/ Do I still need something to correct the TOE ?
2/ What would be the point to also have a Lower Control Arm then ;) ?

Depending on how aggressive you are with the camber you may still need to adjust toe. A few guys like to change their track width which would still require the lower control arms.

Hope that helps.

Any updates on this?

How have they faired, do they make noise now two yrs later?
Had to replace a rod end yet?
How many miles, what conditions?

Thanks

I've had these since Sept 2013. It's been rock solid, no noises, no issues. 30+ track days and about 25k miles.

And yours had the bearings connecting it to the subframe (vs the poly bushings)?

Yes!

I've had no issues with mine either. Probably 8-9K street miles, some track days, and a lot of autocross.

For the guys that have this UCA installed, can you take a picture from the rear of the car to show how much your rear tire pokes or tucks in with your wheel/tire/camber specs? Trying to understand the geometry because my tires are poking slightly with my current setup (stock rear UCA).

How soft are the stock bushings? Ive had my eye on these arms

Since this is the top thread for this search result, here's some replacement part info:

Top Bolt - 1/2"-13 1" Long - McMaster-Carr Item 91306A432
Heim Joints - 3/4" Standard size, FK Rod Ends JMX12T or PMX12T