p0016 need help asap
 

Yesterday I was driving home from work and my check engine light and traction came on.. I got the code p0016 - Crankshaft Position - Camshaft Position Correlation (Bank 1 Sensor A)
I'm not a machanic my self so I Don't know what to check. I have search and there isn't much info i can find about it, if someone can point me to the correct post that would be nice and also i made an appointment with the dealer to take it in tomorrow at 2pm..

Oh and umm I also have a catback exhaust should I also take that off before going to the dealer? I know there is a law about they can't void my warrenty if its not the cost of the damage but like i said im not a mechanic so i dont want the dealer to just say its the cause of the damage and knowing me i dont know what to say im just taking extra precaution please help me verify.

currently have 9,4xxx miles on the car

Thx in advance

go to the dealer bro

I wouldn't think it would be necessary to switch back your exhaust.

That code shouldn't be related to the muffler.

Are you guys serious??? Don't change back the exhaust?? Of course you should; dealers will look for any possible reason to deny coverage. It's a 20 minute job.... Put chances on your side, and send the car in, all stock.

you need a new ECU flash

whats the build date on your car

IIRC this code (one of four, p0016, 17, 18, and 19) was one of the great debacles of 2013.

This is a well documented issue that seems to have faded into the ether, so I believe it's been resolved on a manufacturing level. Whatever the case, there's a TSB or two for it and the dealer should quickly know that it is/was a known problem not caused by aftermarket parts because it happened to mostly stock cars. To boot, the exhaust is only a catback, so it really shouldn't be able to affect the engine operation at all and the dealer should look past it due to the circumstances.

If your dealer is a known pain in the ass when it comes to warranty or TSB work, you might want to swap the exhaust back to stock just to be safe.

Ohh okay.. it is like a 30minute job so I guess ill change it back to stock to be 100% sure I'm okay.. Thx a lot for the info guys

Idk yet I'm at work atm but ill get that when I get home

They have to be able to prove the part caused the failure. That would be nearly impossible even with full exhaust.

If you indeed have 94xxx miles on the car (94K) you're out of warranty.

If you have 9,4xx miles (9.4K) then you are covered under powertrain warranty, assuming you have no other engine mods that would change engine parameters.

And no, catback exhaust will not be a cause of this code nor will it impact your ability to get warranty coverage if applicable. Just be reasonable with the dealer, and take your business elsewhere if they give you crap for an exhaust.

Of course. But the sensible dealer will realize that this is paid work reimbursed by the manufacturer... only the dumb/stupid/ignorant/untrained service departments will deny warranty work on a legitimate claim.

-alex

Sry I ment 9,4xx

One more question would it be safe to drive the car approximately 60mile?

Yeah, and it's good that people know more and more about this, and how not to get screwed over by dealers.. but IMO, less trouble to remove the part than to argue with the dealer and potentially have to go through some kind of arbitration process to get coverage... I guess I like to play it safe.

My car just threw me the P0016.
I felt like my car was a bit sluggish, but it could be just me seeing all these traction control light and CEL that make me panic. lol

Going to the dealer first thing in the morning tomorrow.

@lol @fx35s any updates on what happened when you went to the dealer? Did the reflash do the trick??

Here ya go- hope this helps.
Everything was under a warranty and it took about 3-4 weeks for the Subaru dealership to get my car back to me because it was the first case with them and they wanted to record everything they do with my car for to-go fix.

In the mean time I drove Subaru Forest (I think..) and when I finally got back in my car after so long my brz felt like a f****** racecar. I think I might buy Forester or Outback just so that I'd drive it for a long time in the winter and go back in brz in spring to have fun in the car hahah

But yeah- good luck.

OP relax. I'm going through this right now too. Car is at the dealer. They already replaced the ECU and it didn't fix the issue so they are replacing two sensors now. I too have an aftermarket exhaust, along with new wheels, but my warranty is intact. As long as you don't have any mods that have changed how the engine or powertrain operates and haven't neglected your car, it'll be fine.

The car will be sluggish because it goes into limp **** mode. My car did the same, as to protect the engine from you damaging it further if it is a mechanical problem. It's safe enough to drive to the dealer and wherever you absolutely need to go, but it's probably not the best time to go canyon racing just yet, if that makes sense.

I know this is an old post, but I just had this code pulled on my 2013 FR-S. My mechanic told me this was caused by low oil levels causing an oil pressure drop. Did an oil change, cleared codes and did a test-drive and everything was a-ok. Hopefully it stays that way.

Dealing with that code right now. Keep in mind that code won't come back until at least the second time you drive the car.

I can see it maybe having a relation with that, as my oil level was slightly below minimum when I changed it after the code and I had been tracking the car regularly. But clearing the code only made it come back after the second start cycle or after driving hard for a minute or two. The car will probably feel similar below 5k rpm, but it will sound slightly off (less loud than usual) and have lower power (VVT is off basically when the code is on).

Yep. It sure as hell did come back on. Took about 5 miles after driving it home. Took it to the dealer and they tried a couple of things to diagnose it, but still no fix yet. They don't think it's the sensor since they swapped the sensors and it threw the same code for the same side as before, so they are thinking it may be a cam issue now. Ugh.

A quick update. After about 6 weeks at the dealer, they finally look to have fixed this. Thankfully I was under warranty.
They tried reflashing first. Code came back. Swapped the sensors and code still tripped on the same bank, so they ruled the sensors out. Then they had to drop the oil pan to check or shavings, pan came back clean. Finally they replaced the cam gear (and many seals and the water pump) and put her back together. I made sure they test drove it for a decent run of miles and then run it again for another short test drive just to make sure the fix stuck.

Keep your fingers crossed. Feels good to have my car back.

So the ECU has not been replaced? I'm curious to know if the code stays away with the stock ECU, so far I believe every one I've heard of the ECU had to be swapped as well.

One of the first things they tried was reflashing, so maybe that cleared those, I'm not sure.

Looking at the final invoice that corrected the issue, it looks like they replaced the cam sprocket and the vvt valve with ECM. The water pump had developed a very small leak near the vvt, so it's possible that was the root cause. They replaced the water pump as well. So far it's been running perfectly.

After dealer has rebuilt the engine due to oil leak and got my car back this Monday (after 4 weeks in shop). Now I am dealing with P0016 and will see what they find. The oil leak was the 4th time repair and finally the replaced whole bunch of engine internal components.