Eneos sustina oil question!!
 

Hey guys sorry for too many questions, so I got some sustina 0w20 oil quite pricey actually, and it was too cold to do an old change outside. So I called a local shop and ask if they could do it for me they did it for 18$ with tax. Over priced but whatever, I got 6 quarts of the oil Btw. So they did the change and everything and they said that there was no oil left. The car uses 5.8quarts so wasn't too suspicious. After that I went home checked my dipstick and the oil was barely in the middle of the two holes. And the oil was dripping like it was water. Idk I just feel in the back of my head that they stole my oil and put some cheap stuff in and not enough of it. Anyone know if there's a way to tell?? And anyone uses the same oil can take pictures of their dipstick and let me know if it's that watery?? Thanks in advance!!

Diy and save the headache and doubts. And 18 is not overpriced

They did the oil change. They did not charge too much. Your car is fine. Go to bed.

Oh yeah, good choice of oil

Ya it's really watery looking stuff. And it's supposed to be between the two holes so why don't you think it's enough?

Because 6 quarts should be over filled...not under.

1) Is your car 100% level when you take the measurements? Any slight incline and the dipstick will read wrong.
2) ENEOS is very "watery", you're fine.

-alex

How warm was the car when you checked? Oil was probably sitting up in the heads if it was any less than 10 minutes after shutting the car off.

Check the oil when you get up in the morning on a level surface (maybe before you leave from work if that's flatter) and you might find that extra 1/2 quart.

^ what he said.

0w20 is like piss water. Send a UOA analysis out and see if it compares to other samples. If it does not match up go to your lawyer, send the shop a letter demanding 100k worth of damages and lifetime warranty, models to pose outside your car in public 5 days a week and male massages.

Sustina 0W20 is very thin. Rub it between your fingers and there is no doubt in your mind that this is a unique substance. I've used Toyota and Mazda 0W20 oils, the nearest oils in terms of thickness and there is a noticable difference, even there. FWIW, my current fill is Kendall GT-1 0W20 synthetic blend at $4.50/qt. Titanium and boron ate in yhe add pack and produce excellent results. DIY and use the best, Sustina! Why play around with such a great car?

I love all of these comments that say that Eneos Sustina 0W-20 is thin. All 20 grade oils are between 5.6 and 9.2 centistokes at 100C! You guys can tell the difference between a 20 grade that's 7 centisokes at 100C and one that is maybe 8 centistokes at 100C? Impressive!:clap: Don't burn your fingers! :D

OP - If you really want to know, do a used virgin/oil analysis as was mentioned. It's best to take a used sample hot from the dipstick tube so you don't lose too much oil. Send in a used and unused sample to two different labs and compare the results between the used and unused samples. If the oil additive levels are similar, there's a good chance that they used your oil.

-Dennis

Dennis, you know I have personally done a whole lot more than rub motor oil between my fingers. I have stated that I am not allowed to talk about it on bitog anymore. Once again, for the record, I have used Sustina for 60k miles, with oil change intervals extended to 20k miles. Used oil analysis was conducted and the results substantiate that Sustina is fantastic, and yes it is the lightest of non-racing motor oils.
I hope that you will trust that when I state that I can tell the differences between certain oils that you may or may not care for, that I am simply stating the truth from personal experience and not trying to impress you.
There is lots of talk about how thin you can go and about different base stocks. This is where the discussion gets interesting. I have rubbed both Sustina 0W20 and Red Line 0W5 racing oils between my fingers and can feel the difference. There are reasons why both group3+ and high ester oils are good choices. This is where motor oil discussions should go. Thanks.

Now that Sopus will be offering Group3+ oils that are shear stable and run clean, at a reasonable price, it might be a favorable choice over high ester oils. Too much ester in oil can cause seal and gasket failures. A super thin, high quality group3+ oil is the best choice, I say. There is no lag. Just monitor the flashpoint out of concerns over potential thinning caused by fuel dilution.

:threadjacked::offtopic:

Agreed on the SOPUS Group III+ Gas To Liquid base stock Pennzoil oils (really more like Group V). NOACK volatility on some of these oils is even better than Red Line (the 5W-20 is 5%) and these volatility results are less than half of what is currently allowed by API (maxiumum of 15%).

Pennzoil Ultra Platinum and Pennzoil Platinum with PurePlus technology is slowly starting to pop up in stores and Pennzoil will be doing a full launch early spring. Any current Pennzoil Ultra that is API SN is also made with GTL base stocks (although no 0W-20 is available in the current Ultra).

-Dennis

There's a Pennzoil Ultra Platinum coming?

You blasted me personally. I responded with motor oil substance. On topic.
Any professional tribologist who bothers to rub Sustina between their fingers would say that it feels thin. The very engineer who design the FT86 and drove on Sustina, recommends Sustina, over TGMO, slightly thicker, and over French motorcycle oil.:)
Betya the Boxer engine likes group3+ over high ester. Your problems will not be shear-related engine wear.
The good news is that thin, GTL-based oil is getting cheap. The truth is on the dipstick.

viscositosis - I blasted myself. :D

Yep. I think they're changing the name because they're tired of people on forums calling their oil PP and PU. :D

-Dennis

:lol:

Good to know, thanks.

blast away bluesubie-yourself-me-I enjoy it all sir-the new ultra line would seem to be an excellent choice for dealing with gdi issues...good call.

hey bluesubie, are you considering PUPP over the high-ester, shear-stable Motul? It figures you would ask Pennzoil about 0W40 & 5W40, lol. It is weird how with Pennzoil, the 5W20 is far superior to the 0W20. I have used Ultra. This new stuff is going to run super clean.
I saw some PPPP 10W30 in 5qt jugs at a Walmart yesterday for about $25. Have a great evening, sir. My friend just bought a 2014 FRS, pearl white. He is changing out the badging already to make it look like a Japanese GT86. Sorry. Off topic.

FWIW spotted today at Walmart in Fremont CA was 5qt jugs of 5W20 Pennzoil Platinum with PurePlus. date of manufacture Jan'14. Old bottle 0W20 dom Nov'13. Both @ $25.17. The new PUPP 5W20 will be my oil, after I use up my current stash. Clean engine. Yes!

I had been running Motul mainly because I get it using my Subaru Mastercard rewards from a couple of on-line Subaru dealers (Fred Beans and Annapolis Subaru). Since Subaru is doing away with their Mastercard program, and I've been using Subaru bucks on other maintenance items, I'll probably go with the xW-40 version of the Ultra next.

I also need a valve job, or a complete rebuild, so I'm not going to be spending very much money on this car in the future. :(

-Dennis

Seems like it's always the valves or the piston rings, bluesubie. What has me excited about Pennzoil Ultra with Pure Plus is how extraordinarily clean it will keep the rings. It 's just my mega mile driving mindset. I am seriously considering brand new Forrester 4cyl base. CVT or 5speed? That is a tough decision. Hope you rebuild your oldie but goodie.

OP, if you checked immediately following driving it might appear low, because all the oil had not settled in the pan yet. Check in the morning after it has sat all night and it is nice and cold. That will give you best reading with all oil settled in pan.

Also, if you are checking oil level on new oil, it's super light colored (not black yet) due to it being literally brand new without contaminants. It's also "drippy" because it's 0W-20 and if it's hot when you checked it immediately following driving... well then it's even drippier than normal.

Yes. Back on topic. Dipstick visual analysis. Did you know that Mercedes used to get all particular about type of cloth diy'ers would use to wipe off their ATF dipstick with? It seems that chards of thread would get on the dipstick,contaminate the fluid, and destroy transmissions. We all know the thing about how ATF must be pristine. Be careful. I guess. Don't know if the same thing applies to the boxer engine.

Do you have a link for that? Sounds like an interesting read.

If you take some very fine grit emery paper and sand the surface of the dipstick where the level marks are, it causes the oil to stick to the dipstick differently and makes it a lot easier to read.

Sorry I don't. He drove the 86 around in the USA for a while and proclaimed Sustina the correct oil for this application. The point is that he was going very thin. TGMO is quite similar.
Sustina will run very clean.