Originally Posted by raul (Post 1436105)

I run GC 5w30 just fine. :)

Originally Posted by Anthonytpt (Post 1436106)

I've been running with Motul 300V 5W-30. Try searching the forum.

Originally Posted by bluesubie (Post 1436256)

Can you return the oil?

All 5W's are tested at -30C so it should start fine, but definitely not as easily as the 0W-20. Although 5W-30 is thicker than 0W-20, especially in these temps that we're having now, so I would probably would just order some 0W-20 and save the 5W-30 for later.

You could also mix the 5W-30 with the 0W-20.

edit:
Just to get an idea of the difference in actual thickness at your current temp., I plugged the viscosity numbers for Eneos 0W-20 and 5W-30 into a viscosity calculator. Eneos 0W-20 is approx. 872.5 cSt's at -15C/5F and the 5W-30 is approx. 1244.5. At 0C/32F, the difference isn't as great. 299.1 for the 0W-20 and 416.8 for the 5W-30.

http://www.eneos.us/product/1
http://www.eneos.us/product/4
http://www.widman.biz/English/Calculators/Graph.html

You definitely don't want to go to the dealer with an engine warranty concern and tell them you're running 5W-30.

-Dennis

Originally Posted by Dave-ROR (Post 1436562)

I run 0W-30. Just save it for the summer. Unless I lived up north I would never put 0W-20 in these cars, oil pressure sucked with 0W-20 in my car. (and even then I'd probably still run 0W-30 depending on UOA results, I'd at least try it).

Originally Posted by Dave-ROR (Post 1436960)

Oil pressure is hugely useful to see starvation on track. I'd run oil pressure over temp if I had to pick but I've always run both.

And sorry, but 45psi at redline isn't ideal. I agree flow is most important, a bit hard to measure though. Oh and that was in a straight line, it dropped more on track mid turn. That was with a cooler, ~230 on the track or so.

However, do what you want. 0w-20 is good for fuel eco :thumbup: I will stick with what's worked well for me on race cars over the last 10 years and more than that on street cars. Old school, maybe but whatever.

Oh yeah, Subaru suggests thicker oil for track use, etc too. I know the OP isn't talking about tracking his car right now, my point was that Subaru obviously isn't concerned with a thicker oil and suggests it depending on use.

Use the viscosity that your bearings/clearances like. We run 50 weight in the race car because of it's larger clearances.. well we did, probably not in the future, we are replacing bearings now after someone (not me :) ) left the oil cap off and drove a session on sebring.. ;) Depending on clearances we will adjust.

Originally Posted by bluesubie (Post 1437796)

Looks like you are determining oil pressure by the grade on the bottle, which isn't always helpful. Some Resource Conserving 0W-30's have an HTHS the same as some robust 0W-20's, so there would be very little difference in oil pressure. In fact, some people call Red Line's 5W-20 a "fake 20 grade" as the HTHS is the same as many 30 grade oils even though the kinematic viscosity is at the very upper range of a 20 grade. In harsh conditions, some oils can also have viscosity shear, as well as HTHS shear, so a low HTHS/kinematic viscosity 0W-30 can lose pressure over the interval and you end up with a 20 grade anyway.

But all of this is a moot point since the topic of this thread is using a 5W-30 or a 0W-20 in PA in 5*F temps and not what oil to run in FL at the track! :D Look at the difference in start-up viscosity that I posted above.

-Dennis

Originally Posted by Dave-ROR (Post 1438141)

Huh? I'm determining oil pressure via a sensor. I agree that the bottle by itself isn't useful and I shop oils by specs, not the grade on the bottle. I use the grade as a starting point (I can't say I've looked up Vis/HTHS/etc on 20w50s for example) though. Unless it's MTF/gear lube then I check specs of each product to see what fits my requirements.

As for the other point I simply suggested him keeping the oil for summer instead of selling it. We went off topic after that :)

Originally Posted by cooldandani (Post 1436084)

Hey guys ran into some trouble, just ordered some eneos sustina 5w30 oil by accident. I messaged the guy if he could change the order to 0w20 but he said it was too late. I've read of other people putting 5w30 into their frs is it safe?? Thanks for input!

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Originally Posted by benlaz88 (Post 1439101)

its should be fine. Im running Enos 5w20 and is running well for me.

Originally Posted by cooldandani (Post 1439453)

Where do you live tho?

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Originally Posted by bluesubie (Post 1438456)

I meant that simply telling someone to use x grade oil doesn't really do much to determine what their op will be since HTHS factors into op.

People are just throwing out use 5W-30, use 0W-30. If given a choice for the best oil at the track, I would choose something like Red Line 0W-20 or Motul 300V 0W-20 over a Resource Conserving 0W-30. With ester base stocks and a high HTHS for the grade, RL 0W-20 or 300V 0W-20 will very likely maintain both their kinematic and HTHS viscosities over the interval better than many off the shelf xW-30's which are designed for fuel economy. Some xW-30's have shown to shear to a 20 grade in as little as 1,500 miles in uoa's.

Sorry, a bit OT there.

-Dennis

Originally Posted by ayau (Post 1444574)

Wouldn't running 300V 0W-30 or other high quality oils be the best compromise? You get the low viscosity level of 0W, but the 30 weight won't shear to 20 weight as quickly. Subaru recommends using higher weight oil under harsh conditions.

Originally Posted by cooldandani (Post 1439453)

Where do you live tho?

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Originally Posted by DAMotorsports (Post 1485280)

we have speced out the FA20 and there is a good reason they say 0-20w. The clearances are very tight and we would recommend running a quality synthetic oil over a thinker weight.

Originally Posted by Astroboy (Post 2260280)

What if the car is turbocharged and easily exceeds past 100c? Would you recommend I switch to a 5w30 grade oil. I've been running Toyota's 0w20 for the first 4k miles and then switched to motuls 8100 x clean 5w30 for the next 3k miles.

Originally Posted by bluesubie (Post 2260318)

That should be fine in a turbocharged car. Although most GF5 5W30's shear to a 20 grade with hard use, X-clean meets ACEA C3 specs so it has a high HTHS and thick 30 grade viscosity when hot (it's nearly a 40 grade). As shown in WRX uoa's, X-clean typically stays in grade under hard use. If you want to go a little lighter next time, Motul Eco-nergy is a thinner 30 grade.

FWIW, Subaru Japan allows 5W40 in the BRZ in severe conditions.

Originally Posted by Astroboy (Post 2260572)

So what you are telling me is that it's basically a 40 grade? My cars only pushing 250whp and 200tq. Should I be concerned?


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Originally Posted by AZP Installs (Post 2260588)

5w30 is fine especially if you are in a warm climate.]

-Mike Paisan

http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/153798190.jpg
Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Enthusiasts since 2001.
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Originally Posted by Astroboy (Post 2260572)

So what you are telling me is that it's basically a 40 grade? My cars only pushing 250whp and 200tq. Should I be concerned?


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Originally Posted by Astroboy (Post 2260572)

So what you are telling me is that it's basically a 40 grade? My cars only pushing 250whp and 200tq. Should I be concerned?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk