How to remove seat rail bolt after you've stripped it
 

I'm not sure how many people have stripped the seat rail bolts, but I'm one of them. The metal is soft, they use an e10 hex stud, and they're unbelievably tight.

Anyways, if you did strip it, hopefully this saves you 2 hours figuring out a way to get it out.

Start by drilling a small divot into the bolt head surround

Next, take a hole punch and place the tip into the pilot hole at an angle which would cause the bolt to spin counter clockwise

Start tapping with a hammer and eventually it will come loose

Replace the stud with a new one, they're about 7$ from a dealer

Here's a pic of the bolt afterwards. You can see the pilot hole that I used to give the center punch some grip. As you can see, I tried a bunch of other methods but this one ended up taking like 2 minutes




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Been there, done that. Hate those bolts.

Yeah I won't replacing the stock bolts with the same garbadge

Unless you cut up the seat rails you will not find a good replacement is issue. I went through same gig and went to mother of all bolt suppliers and couldn't find anything where you could actually fit a socket in with conventional head bolt. If you do get lucky and find something that does work that you can get at please share. :)

Actually I did find a proper bolt at Parts Source. When I say proper bolt, I mean right length, head size and thread. However I don't remember the part number off hand. They would not fit in my case with my GT-Spec seat rail supports because the built in washer diameter was slightly too big, which could easily been ground down to size if I really wanted to be creative. But I ended up using the proper tools in advance including a breaker bar to remove the oem bolts and just re-used them ;)


http://imageshack.com/a/img203/8689/ucak.jpg
http://imageshack.com/a/img850/9624/03z0.jpg

Surely a socket head cap screw would fit in place of one of those, wouldn't it?

OHMYGOD thank you so much. I've spent my whole damn afternoon swearing at one screw. It got to the point where Ace Hardware employees were telling me it was a lost cuase. You're amazing. I hope something amazing happens to you today.

lol^ I stripped one of mine as well but an impact gun at a shop saved my life. I replaced the oem bolts with diff bolts all together. It was difficult to say the least tightening the new ones with limited room. Using planted seat bracket and universal rails on bride gias II.

I tried everything and then realized my buddy has a mig welder.

http://i.imgur.com/PeYRj43.jpg

Good solution.

For those that do not have access to a welder, but air tools. Attach a cutting/grinding burr, grind down the head of the E10 bolt and extract.

I replaced all of my seat studs with normal bolts long ago, the stock hex bolts can go to hell.

Thanks
 

The posting which described how to remove the seat rail bolts was right on for me. It was exactly the problem I was having and the solution described was perfect. Thanks for the posting!:w00t:

My case is similar. The previous owner had mangled the bolt heads trying to get them out and gave up. I bought a Craftsman E10 Torx socket off of eBay for 3.99 with shipping included. I put the socket on a long extension with my ratchet. I beat on my ratchet with a hammer while applying force to the bolt head. Even though there was next to nothing left of the bolt head, the hammering force and the what was left at the bottom of the bolt head was enough to break it free. To look at it you would have never thought it was possible, but it worked. So have confidence...don't give up...and beat on it while applying torque. You might be pleasantly surprised.

By the way, does anyone have the part # for the stock bolts? Thanks in advance.

Subaru Part Number for Seat Rail Bolts
 

P/N 901000390 $2.70 plus tax in North Texas on 10/17/2016

I tried the dimple on the edge. Did not work. I hammered a 7mm socket onto the 8mm bolt. Heated the bolt with a torch, then unbolted it. I used a cheater bar.

Careful with the torch, scorched my carpet a little. you cant see it under the seat, but I know it is there.

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/pictu...ictureid=10362

Then, I found a nut that fit the bolt. screwed it down to the head of the bolt. went over to my grinder and made the top of the bolt hex, like the nut. Test fit it in a socket, then re-installed the "fixed" bolt.

It has plenty of threads that still work. :w00t:



Edit: I was using an impact driver to remove the bolts with an 8mm torx socket. I ended up stripping the last one. I would suggest using a breaker bar to remove the seat bolts instead.

Seat bolt part #.
 

SU003-02815

I can’t tell you how much these stupid bolts frustrated me. I think one of mine may have been over tightened from the factory because it just would not budge. It ended up stripping a friend of mine made it even worse by trying to drill into it and use an extractor bit to get it out. Long story short I ended up taking it to a shop where they got it out no problem using an industrial grade drill and bit. Of course, I have replaced all the bolts with “regular” hex bolts (M10 x 1.25 25 mm). He let me keep the old as a keepsake so I don’t forget this headache lol.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...10178b4bb9.jpg

Reviving this slightly old thread.

I snagged some brz seats from a local. Went to install them and holy hell, I don’t know what mechanic used an impact driver on these bolts, but they’re tight as heck. Should be 39ft lbs I think. One sheared the torx head right off! Didn’t leave enough metal to get my extractors on unfortunately.

http://print.spitsnaugle.com/img/s/v...47731325-4.jpg

So far I’ve: soaked in pb blaster. Cut a line in for my impact driver, the torched it nice and hot... and the damn thing broke my impact bit!

http://print.spitsnaugle.com/img/s/v...47731140-4.jpg

I guess I’m left to drilling at this point!

They're really difficult even when torqued to spec. I had to drill out several. As soon as the drill bit became flush with the seat mount rail it popped and released.

It seems there's constant tension on them with the seat mounts. Once that pressure is released they let go. I was able to spin, what was left of them, out by hand afterwards.

For those who drilled the head off,c and then reminded the seat. how did you end up removing the mangled bolt remains?

Just did this, once the head was off, they came out finger loose, used needle nose pliers to grip the remains and turn them out. Shocked they were so loose like new2subaru said!

http://print.spitsnaugle.com/img/s/v...48710944-5.jpg

Glad it worked out for you! They're a piece of cake once drilled out completely to the washer. The pics help a lot.

Please post the number of days it takes for you to not give a damn.

Pretty sure an impact is less likely to strip than a breaker bar
Lots of little taps vs. a twisting.

So, it's not the bolt, but that the seat is putting weird pressure on the bolt.
I wonder if there is any way to mitigate this pressure.
Like try to get out the easiest one, and then have someone jostle the seat back and forth with some play to get the others loose ?

No clue, I don't know how you would take pressure off if it's seated.

Likely to be the carpet knap acting like a big spring washer.

Makes sense but it's metal on metal.

If you feel that way, that's fine with me.


I have stated how I feel after actually dealing with a few stuck seat bolts.

I used both a heavy duty Milwaukee impact gun on one seat and a breaker bar on the other to remove mine, sheared the torx heads off the front bolts regardless. Rears came out fine on both.

I felt like I could push down more with the impact gun for a better bite, but the end result was the same.

The easiest thing from experience on those bolts that I stripped as well was to heat them for about 10seconds with a torch from Home Depot. A little bit of the carpet got singed in the process but those bolts turned so easy after the heat. You will seriously not believe how easy it is after that

Does anyone have the Toyota part number for the 2017+ hex head seat bolts? Looking to replace the torx type with the updated version. Thanks!

if you cant find it, get a M10x1.25 flange bolt