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ST Coilover Pics
So i just pulled the trigger on some ST Coilovers and i want to see how other 86 twins look like with them on. Please post your pics below :thumbup:
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Wouldn't they look like any other 86 dropped .8 to 2 inches?
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Here's mine a day after installation, still need to set it up properly Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk |
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yeah i guess you're right but i want to see an 86 on ST coilovers:party0030: my prefrence Quote:
looking good! what are your current alignment specs? if i may ask :) |
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Here's another, it's kinda hard to see though. :/ I really need a better camera other than my iphone 5 Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk |
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tell me about it man, i wish i never sold my DSLR :thumbdown: are those RPF1 17 inch? |
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Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk |
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Here's mine with Enkei Raijins, 245/265 MPSS tires
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@Plxdjake89, @mike the snake:
How low did the coilovers come set from the factory? Halfway? (If the 20-50mm lowering range is correct, I think halfway would be 35mm). Or how many threads? |
Definitely curious on people's lowering settings if they're going to share pics. If you didn't adjust them from the factory then I'm curious as to what factory spec is?
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I'm guessing mine is lowered 1.5 inches. The rear at first was lower but rubbed too much (I'm running 265's in the rear) so I raised it to where it's at now in the pic with no rubbing issues.
I'm planning on going another 1/4" to 1/2" lower front and rear. |
Thanks! I was heavily considering Mach V lowering springs, but I'm thinking now that I want simple, yet quality coilovers just for more drop and to give the stock struts some relief. Throwing aftermarket springs on stock struts hasn't always been my favorite solution, especially since I already have over 30k miles on the car.
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Ill get some pics up soon, but for reference:
Stock I was 4.75" from fender to edge of wheel(rim), all 4. After installing the st coilovers, they are set as such: Front-which is 7 full turns(on the height adjustment collar) from the bottom has me at 3.5" from fender to wheel(rim) Rear-which is 15 full turns from the bottom has me at 2.75" from fender to collar. These measurements are after a day or two of sitting, and ill report back in a week if they've settled at all. I will be raising the rear up to match the front drop height, however. |
Best coils out there under $1000 no questions asked.
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I guess the strut rod is allen keyed? Anyone know the size of the strut rod's keying (stock is 5mm and 6mm) and the strut top nut size? Curious if everything is "normal" and not unusually sized (like an oversized top nut or rod keyed beyond the range of my hex bit set) in which case I'd have to buy more hardware. |
The nuts on the st strut and the Allen/hex heads are different as well, but I believe it was just a standard vs metric size thing. No insanely weird size will be needed.
Make sure you have a pass through wrench set to make things a lot easier during install. |
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But my pass thru sockets, hex bit sockets, and allen key set are all metric. So you're saying the ST requires SAE (English, not metric) hardware? Weird, thought it was identical to the KW V1 which should be metric. |
Ill double check, but when I was doing the install 1/2 asleep(at 3am lol), I think the hex was a different size than the stock ones...however, it might have just been the front nuts of the st coilovers that were different(sae vs metric)
Ill check in a few minutes @switchlanez |
Okay, so here's the breakdown.
Bolts and nut for bottom of strut/knuckle are 19mm Top of stock struts are 12mm(that hold the strut to the car) The stock rear strut nut is 14mm Front stock nut is 17mm Stock hex is 6mm front Stock rear hex is 5mm The nut on the top of the ST front strut is 19mm or 3/4 ST allen/hex on the front ST strut is 5mm ST allen/hex on the rear ST strut is 5mm The top of the rear ST strut is 16mm Never said "nut" so many times before lol. I didn't have a pass through wrench set, so I was ghetto and used vice grips with the right size socket for the the top of the strut+the proper Allen wrench. Not suggested by any means, but if you really want to get the install done lol. The rear strut/spring wasn't under much tension, but the stock front strut/spring has a "pop" to it when it comes off. I had the strut on the ground with an old rug/towel on it so when the top hat comes off, nothing flew anywhere/destroyed anything. Once again, not suggested, but how I did it. Lastly, the rear ST coilover is easy to get the top hat on, just lower the height collar all the way down, and there is little/no spring tension. For the front ST coilover/top hat, I suggest having another person help push down on the top hat while you get the nut threaded on the shaft a little bit. If you don't have someone else to help(I did not), you can get a chair and a piece of wood(2x4 is what I used). Place the chair in a safe location, and place the strut in front of the chair. Now, place the wood between the two(the edge of the wood is on the top hat), and sit on the wood. Your weight will help compress the spring, and you should be able to get the nut threaded on a bit. This certainly is the worst of my ghetto ideas, but it worked lol. Use with MUCH caution. |
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And interesting ghetto tips lol. I may just rent a spring compressor, NBD. |
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As a side note, I raised the rear coilover collar's 5 turns(so my rear are now 20 turns from the lowest setting) and my rear ride height matches the front...3.5" from fender to edge of wheel/rim |
Are camber plates needed if you had 18x9.5 +38 all around? I might go ahead and pull the trigger on these. And if so, which plates would you guys recommend? Or could I just get away with crash bolts?
Thanks |
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Camber plates are not needed. I am currently running 18x9 +40 with 245/40/18, and I now have PLENTY of room between the tire/wheel and coilover. I haven't done my alignment yet, but I'm expecting to have between -1.5 and -2 camber up front with just the ST coilovers). Camber plates are used when you're trying to get lots of negative camber, or to ensure that you can dial in the exact alignment settings you want. For a dd, you will be fine without camber plates. What's best? If later down the road you want to get camber plates, they'll be a simple bolt on/addition to the ST's. As far as crash bolts go, they work, but I'm not really a fan of them...just a personal opinion. Hit up Jurrian @ModBargains.com for ordering(great price, AND a forum vendor) What are your ultimate goals as far as camber are concerned? Unless you need lots of adjustment, you'll probably be fine with the slotted front struts. As far as the rear camber adjustment, you'll need the whiteline rear camber kit or adjustable rear lower control arms(usually the preferred method-and made by many different vendors;stance, whiteline, cusco spc etc). Once again, the rear control arms/camber adjustment won't be needed with the ST's(or any other coilover)...but they would be a nice addition. Again, what are your overall goals for the car? How much do you want to lower it etc etc... |
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For the front ST struts, did you guys use the oem spring perch, rubber gasket, or the subaru conical washer? I did the install today minus all 3 of those and there's noise from the passenger side front.
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You don't need to use to oem spring perch or rubber spring isolator for the ST coilovers, but it's recommended that you do get the conical washer. The noise can be from a number or reasons, but firstly check whether the top nut is tightened properly. Did you use a pass-through socket set to tighten the top nuts?
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Ahh....my bad lol. It's late for me!
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Is the upper perch of the front ST coilover shaped to fit with a conical washer between it and the top mount or is the perch already conical/pointy in a way such that a conical washer would be redundant? Also, what hardware cannot be reused besides the front strut/knuckle bolts?
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There is a clunging sound at low speeds only.
The spring perch on the ST has a similar contact area as the washer welded on the OEM spring perch. |
If it has a similar contact area, then the washers shouldn't be needed.
My ST's get here Wednesday, I'm debating if I should pick up the subie washer to be safe. Although some guys on here say they don't have it and have no issues.... |
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I was having 2nd thoughts about the integrated conical washer. Looks like the ST does have a washer-like protrusion at the top of the perch but I can't clearly see how it compares against the stock perch protrusion: http://i.imgur.com/rxr75Qb.jpg http://www.ft86club.com/forums/attac...1&d=1365027777 Are they identically sized? |
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