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Rebuild/install thread: Endless Big Brake Kit from WRX onto BRZ

A friend of mine is semi-parting out a WRX, and I was able to secure the Endless Big Brake Kit off his car.

The calipers are the mini-6 pot calipers, and rotors measure 326x30mm.

I'll be taking apart the calipers and having them rebuilt, as well has cleaning up and reanodizing the rotor hats as well as the calipers.

Stay tuned...

On WRX:
http://i.imgur.com/o7cUOMl.jpg

Stock vs Endless:
http://i.imgur.com/DkPntVj.jpg

Stock front rotor vs Endless:
http://i.imgur.com/eZMOXR2.jpg

-alex

Disassembly of the calipers:

Quote:

Caliper:
http://i.imgur.com/CfFNsQW.jpg

Taking apart the calipers:

http://i.imgur.com/JpMeecE.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/DuEWhaN.jpg

Removing brake pistons on a 4/6-piston caliper setup often requires compressed air and a block of wood. I won't go into details about this too much, but if you've never rebuilt a 4 piston caliper before, beware that you have to try to loosen all 4 pistons. This often involves pushing out one piston, reinserting it, then finding a way to push out a second piston. There are a few writeups online that can be found on how to rebuild brake calipers.
http://i.imgur.com/l20aU8t.jpg

The Endless caliper halves uses a steel tube for fluid transfer. After I removed the pistons from one half of the caliper, I removed this tube to push out the pistons from the other half of the caliper.
http://i.imgur.com/HTGPjcA.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/M7Qb0IE.jpg

Bare caliper:
http://i.imgur.com/BdzThTg.jpg

I then took apart the halves of the caliper for cleaning and reanodizing. There are 4x 6mm bolts and 2x 8mm bolts holding the caliper halves together.
http://i.imgur.com/GLJZUyC.jpg

Reanodized calipers:

Quote:

http://i.imgur.com/vKQ89g9.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/A3GNrub.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/uEHTPdQ.jpg

The new "blue" is a slightly different shade than the original color. It's fairly close, and with some brake dust on there it will look the same.

I mostly wanted the front of the caliper and the rotor hats to match...

Waiting for parts to come in from Japan for rebuild.

Rebuilding calipers:

Quote:

Endless caliper rebuild kit includes a total of 4 caliper piston seals, 4 caliper piston dust seals, and one tube of silicone grease.
http://i.imgur.com/fAO074x.jpg

There are three different piston sizes, it's best to line up the seals accordingly before you start. First, the larger caliper piston seal goes in, then the smaller dust seal.
http://i.imgur.com/sOKdgla.jpg

It's best to apply some grease onto latex gloves first, then apply it to the seal:
http://i.imgur.com/ff3kiOT.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/fFyNqbZ.jpg

Installation of the seal is fairly straightforward, push one edge of the seal in and use index fingers to guide it in the groove. You can even use some brake fluid at this stage to make it easier, but that's not necessary.
http://i.imgur.com/swYUXhG.jpg

Repeat above for remaining pistons and also the outer dust seal.

After this is done, the caliper pistons can be pressed in. There was enough silicone grease applied when the seals were installed to push in the pistons with ease. A bit of brake fluid can also be used to lubricate them.
http://i.imgur.com/BtLuXZK.jpg

All 12 pistons pushed in:
http://i.imgur.com/dDR00zt.jpg

I also took the opportunity to clean up the hardware that's being reused.

Brake kit hardware (less bobbin pins):
http://i.imgur.com/vTGqoks.jpg

The brake pad retaining clips need to be reinstalled. I had to purchase new hex bolts since the old ones were destroyed while removing them. Cost for heat-treated bolts were around $3-4 at King Bolt in Covina, CA.

Apply a small amount of ThreadLocker Red (high temp) to the bolt, and install the clips.
http://i.imgur.com/AZDOSAo.jpg

Caliper hardware reinstalled:
http://i.imgur.com/5GohzGP.jpg

Caliper lettering sanding & reassembly:

Quote:

The caliper originally had shaved letters that were exposed. I knew I couldn't replicate the look 100%, but if I could get the letters fairly close to the look then I would be happy with it.
To sand, I started by masking off the letters completely. A small razor blade was used to cut out the lettering, creating a surface to sand with.
http://i.imgur.com/RpyRAYW.jpg

I used 3M Emery Cloth sandpaper (100 medium grit) to shave the letters. I simply tri-folded the sandpaper and used the pressure of my thumb to slowly remove the anodize. This wasn't the cleanest way, but it was pretty good considering the metal had all sorts of imperfections in the surface.
http://i.imgur.com/4cBrGtT.jpg

Here's a closeup; the edges are hard to get to without damaging the main body of the caliper, so I left it as-is. It won't be as clear once I have it on the car anyhow, brake dust will just cover it up.
http://i.imgur.com/vhVUtLk.jpg

Once both outer halves are done, it's time to reassemble the caliper...
http://i.imgur.com/U2nWE4D.jpg

As with most bolts that are in critical areas, apply a bit of high temp ThreadLock Red to the bolt.
http://i.imgur.com/fykwxbl.jpg

Reassemble the bolts, and much like torquing down an engine head assembly or your wheels, you want to spread the load out as evenly as possible. I went from the innermost bolts outward, in an alternating fashion.
http://i.imgur.com/XarR48s.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/iHfkUul.jpg

...aaand we're done with the calipers!
http://i.imgur.com/JReW6il.jpg

Caliper bleeder valves (Speed Bleeders) and fluid transfer tube:

Quote:

As shown in a previous photo, the Endless calipers uses a tube to transfer brake fluid between caliper halves. This is a fairly common design for aftermarket big brake kits..

To start, I used some of the Speed Bleeder thread sealant I have on hand to coat the threads on the flared fitting ends.
http://i.imgur.com/jzbXF2p.jpg

Since the tube doesn't flex on either side, it's best to slowly thread in both sides as equally as you can. Use a 10mm flare nut wrench and turn each side a turn or two, then do the other side.
http://i.imgur.com/Hng1Evj.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/G2o7hs1.jpg

Finished fluid tube on one side:
http://i.imgur.com/JWucFTa.jpg

To make life easier, I picked up some Speed Bleeders to replace the Endless bleeders. It's the same thread/size as what would go on the stock BRZ brakes, SB1010-SS (or Russell part #639560), but you'd obviously need a total of 2 sets for the front calipers (2 bleeders per caliper)

http://i.imgur.com/Ckk3oA3.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/j7uz8oe.jpg

Finished up the caliper bits:
http://i.imgur.com/ltHb2MR.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/dGz2Wrc.jpg

Replacement rotors:

Quote:

http://i.imgur.com/3Wq9X5K.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/jaADirz.jpg

The Endless rotors have a color system built in to the side. You can clearly see the colors as well as the directional curved vanes.
http://i.imgur.com/OSGOMp8.jpg

At 450C/842F, the green will fade. At 630C/1166F, the red will fade. The goal here is to maintain ideal temperatures between 400-600C for a track-oriented compound, but not overheat the brakes. At the same time. the brakes should also not be overcooled to prolong disc and pad life.
More info on this paint: http://www.apracing.com/Info.aspx?In...&ProductID=976

Replacement bobbin pins:
http://i.imgur.com/xOHDemp.jpg

Installation is fairly straightforward: install bobbin pins, use threadlocker on pin screws (recommended), torque in cross pattern to ~12ft-lb... torque wrench is not shown, ratchet used for illustration purposes.
http://i.imgur.com/lI1k3Sa.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/drWLcol.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/u1ZAWFm.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/vyRt21T.jpg

Finished rotor assembly:
http://i.imgur.com/FG0luEz.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/915IPGc.jpg

Completed caliper/rotor assembly:

Quote:

Rebuild of caliper and rotor complete. Now waiting for pads...
http://i.imgur.com/vwMB2Cr.jpg

Replacement pads: Project Mu HC+

Quote:

http://i.imgur.com/EQskiRN.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/jDmE9gA.jpg

Ordered custom Project Mu HC+ pads for the calipers.

Old Endless pads versus new Project Mu HC+:
http://i.imgur.com/K3MNH6C.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/9QUFN5F.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/veSSwZm.jpg

New brake lines + brake install (finally)

Quote:

(I am skipping several steps in this last part. I am assuming you will know how to safely remove a brake line with a flared wrench, also assuming you know how to remove the stock brake calipers & rotors)

Finally got around to installing the calipers this week. First, a complete picture of all parts ready to go on the car + the brake lines.
It should be noted that I ended up using a set of Goodridge lines sourced from @FRSport.com

http://i.imgur.com/GqKZYPb.jpg?1

First to be installed (after removal of stock rotors and calipers) is the caliper adapter bracket. There's a couple of 10mm hex bolts that secure the bracket to the spindle, as well as the caliper to be bracket.
http://i.imgur.com/RCtxuL5.jpg?1

The rotors are next to go on. The calipers are then bolted on, then the pads inserted, then the pad retaining clip. It is a multi-step process but fairly straightforward.
Brake lines are also bolted on at this time.
http://i.imgur.com/YW3AUSk.jpg?1

After install the calipers are bled, starting from the rear to the front. I went RR/RL/FR/FL in sequence.

http://i.imgur.com/tHxhGrp.jpg?1
http://i.imgur.com/fESImAG.jpg?1

With Work Wheels on:
http://i.imgur.com/dKzGq1I.jpg?1

http://i.imgur.com/50dwp95.jpg?1

-alex

Wow the comparison of front rotor vs endless is incredible!

Good things come to good people :-)

Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk

http://i.imgur.com/MA5IwSS.jpg

Test fitting today with track wheels.

-alex

Sickness. Can't wait to see they come together.

Added pics to second post.

-alex

Looking good! How're they performing?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Anthonytpt (Post 1388678)

Looking good! How're they performing?

No updates yet, I just got around to taking everything apart today.

I might not be able to refinish/reanodize the way I want, because several steel parts of the caliper can't be taken apart, so it might prevent the calipers from being refinished.

-alex

Quote:

Originally Posted by mav1178 (Post 1390669)

Are you talking about the pad plates on the inside of the caliper? Those are secured with threadlocker and SHOULD be removable. You'll probably need new screws as the heads of the old screws will likely strip out.

Quote:

Originally Posted by OrbitalEllipses (Post 1390708)

No, those are already removed. Where the caliper bolts to the adapter bracket for the suspension spindle, it's steel inserts pressed into the aluminum... similar to what you'll find when you redrill the bolt pattern of a wheel and steel inserts are pressed in.

These can't be removed and may prevent me from refinishing the caliper surface.

-alex

Wow, this is interesting! Can't wait to see more!

Reanodized calipers:

Quote:

-alex

http://i.imgur.com/JReW6il.jpg

Calipers rebuilt! Now waiting for bobbin pins to come in.

Post #2 updated with rebuild pictures.

-alex

http://i.imgur.com/vwMB2Cr.jpg

Calipers and rotors rebuild complete, post #2 updated with latest pictures.

Goal is to secure some pads in next couple of months...

-alex

:bow::respekt:

by the way how much would a set like these cost brand new?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fizz (Post 1643214)

by the way how much would a set like these cost brand new?

New, I think cost is close to $4k. Endless kits haven't changed much in price over the years.

-alex

Quote:

Originally Posted by mav1178 (Post 1643205)

Calipers and rotors rebuild complete, post #2 updated with latest pictures.

Goal is to secure some pads in next couple of months...

-alex

Do they not use a standard size pad?

Quote:

Originally Posted by supramkivtt2jz (Post 1644110)

Do they not use a standard size pad?

See below. Currently trying to work with Project Mu for some pads.

-alex

Quote:

Originally Posted by mav1178 (Post 1644120)

See below. Currently trying to work with Project Mu for some pads.

-alex

Interesting. Good luck on your build - youve done great work. :cheers:

Looks good very clean

Nicee, well made thread about the detail from start to finish.

sick!!!! could you please lmk where did you order the rebuild kit from and how much I'm in the process of doing the same to mine right now. thanks in advance, did mine in a candy blue
http://i910.photobucket.com/albums/a...psd633521c.jpg

as far as the pads go, you have to use the endless pads i did my research and theres no way around it.

What happens (if anything) to the front/rear bias with these fitted?

Those are some sick calipers man! :D
Now we need to see them on the car :p

Grtz

Quote:

Originally Posted by Captain Snooze (Post 1809543)

What happens (if anything) to the front/rear bias with these fitted?

Nose wheelie :party0030:

Quote:

Originally Posted by Captain Snooze (Post 1809543)

What happens (if anything) to the front/rear bias with these fitted?

Probably none...

I got these off a WRX owner. For the GD Impreza, the front caliper for Wilwood are the same size, diameter, and sweep between a GD WRX, and the FRS/BRZ. On paper, the two kits are the same..

The brakes felt great on the WRX (he had Endless front, Rotora rear), I don't anticipate any issues with bias using street pads. May change when at the track, that's why I will play with compounds later on.

-alex

Quote:

Originally Posted by toms2jz (Post 1780144)

as far as the pads go, you have to use the endless pads i did my research and theres no way around it.

@toms2jz look at my most recent post above, you can get other pads as long as the Endless pad size is provided.

I originally wanted Winmax but they are 6-9 months out for this custom size.

-alex

New brake lines + brake install (finally)

(I am skipping several steps in this last part. I am assuming you will know how to safely remove a brake line with a flared wrench, also assuming you know how to remove the stock brake calipers & rotors)

Finally got around to installing the calipers this week. First, a complete picture of all parts ready to go on the car + the brake lines.
It should be noted that I ended up using a set of Goodridge lines sourced from @FRSport.com

http://i.imgur.com/GqKZYPb.jpg?1

First to be installed (after removal of stock rotors and calipers) is the caliper adapter bracket. There's a couple of 10mm hex bolts that secure the bracket to the spindle, as well as the caliper to be bracket.
http://i.imgur.com/RCtxuL5.jpg?1

The rotors are next to go on. The calipers are then bolted on, then the pads inserted, then the pad retaining clip. It is a multi-step process but fairly straightforward.
Brake lines are also bolted on at this time.
http://i.imgur.com/YW3AUSk.jpg?1

After install the calipers are bled, starting from the rear to the front. I went RR/RL/FR/FL in sequence.

http://i.imgur.com/tHxhGrp.jpg?1
http://i.imgur.com/fESImAG.jpg?1

With Work Wheels on:
http://i.imgur.com/dKzGq1I.jpg?1

http://i.imgur.com/50dwp95.jpg?1

-alex

P.S. pads broken in but I will wait a few days before posting initial impressions of setup. Definitely stops more aggressive but initial pedal feel improvement can also be attributed to stainless brake lines.

Those rotors are so pretty.

damn, looks awesome!

WOW! Quality build you got there. Blue and Gold looks great too :thumbup:

Bump

Any updates on this performance wise. How do they go at the track and any further comments on f/r bias?

TIA

Quote:

Originally Posted by Metabrz (Post 2203783)

Any updates on this performance wise. How do they go at the track and any further comments on f/r bias?

The pads (PMU HC+) are pretty good, but it's not the best for the type of driving I do now which is probably 60-70% track. I've ordered Winmax W5 and those are scheduled to arrive before June.

No issues with bias, at the track they have performed well with no issues. Probably the only "problem" I have with these is that they're expensive from a parts replacement perspective, Endless rotors are almost twice the price of replacement rotors for the more popular AP Sprint kit for our cars.

-alex

Quote:

Originally Posted by mav1178 (Post 2204195)

Thanks, I am considering the AP kit and an Endless kit, seems your experience with consumables matches my research to date.