BC Racing extreme drop Coilover Issue
 

Ive recently installed a set of Bc Racing Extreme drop with 10k springs square and i'm loving the drop on them, the ride is ok considering they are 10k springs, but i seem to have a issue with my front clunking over bumps at low speeds. I do understand metal top hats cause a bit of noise but i'm positive not what im experiencing


VIDEO ( Crappy quality FSR )

you can hear the clunks in the begging and through out the video, i also film the coilovers as maybe i have them setup up in the wrong way :iono:
[ame]http://youtu.be/UsCFKB_yAFY[/ame]





my guess its either the top hats are loose or i need to adjust the end links, this was my first adjustable end links install so i didn't know how to properly set them up and just randomly fiddled with them. i looked for marks of them hitting some where but couldn't find any.

Things i'm going to try this weekend is installing back the stock end links( if they would work) and seeing if it solves this, but id like to hear from you guys on how can i fix this and i really hope i don't end up with retarded comments, commenting on the drop or spring rate :bonk: @Circuit Motorsports

:thanks:

It can be a lot of things, preload, center nut is loose, top nuts are loose, Swaybar endlinks, or contact between two parts (sways, links, exhaust). When you install coilovers tolerances can become tight and sometimes nuts don't get tightened all the way.

The proper way to set preload on a coilover-

-Loosen both lock rings under the spring (spring seat ring(top) and spring lock ring(bottom)) so that the spring is loose and can move up and down slightly.

-Tighten up the spring seat ring so that the spring is snug, but do not tighten it down past simply holding the spring snug, this will be "0" preload.

-Now bring the bottom lock ring up so that it is just touching the spring seat ring, but do not tighten to lock, you will be moving the spring seat ring next.

-Now tighten up the spring seat ring so that you are now preloading (compressing) the spring.

-Measure the distance between the bottom ring and the top ring as you are tightening, once there is a 3mm gap between the two rings, you have 3mm of preload on the spring.

-Tighten up the lock ring to lock your preload in place

-Repeat for all 4 corners.



You also want to check and make sure the top 17mm center nut is tight, it's best to check it with an impact gun if you have access to one, a quick hit is all it should need. Or use an allen key to hold the shaft in place and tighten with an open socket or wrench, you don't want the shaft to spin while you are tightening it. A few other areas to check are the lower mounting bolts, the 4 allen bolts that adjust camber, and the 4 lock bolts underneath the pillowball bearing, make sure all of these are tight.



Sometimes noise can come from somewhere else, endlinks, swaybars, and chassis contact can all be problems. Make sure now that the car is lowered and stiffer that you don't have exhaust contact anywhere. These are all common noise issues.

@Circuit Motorsports thanks, I will try that this weekend and also I will shorten my endlinks as much as I can.

did that fix the issue ? im going through the same clunking noise right now =\

i checked all that and still clunks

i have emailed BC and they are helpful but i need some sort of getting this fixed asap

ive tried everything i can think off.. still doing it =\ looking into another set off coils soon i guess

Nop they always clunked, im happy that i got rid of them. I might've been to anal about it.


Sent from my IBrick

yeah im looking into new sets now.. not BC racing though

Talk to @CSG David he is great help


Sent from my IBrick

what coil overs did u go with

Stock for now !


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Ewww
Needs moar low


I love boost!!!!!!

Needs low 11s first :(


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Lmao


I love boost!!!!!!

sounds like typical BC's to me

Please elaborate on that

They're known to clunk even right from the factory sometimes


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So no fix for this? Looking to buy some coilovers and these look nice and are a nice price..

I ended up fixing mine, took them all off, retighten everything, readjust the endlinks and no more knock for me :D

Thanks, I've heard great and bad things about these and I just can't decide. I've never had coils before so I wanna make sure I do as much research as possible before purchasing.

For the price, ST and B14 have a better track record than BC does. I've heard only great things about both of those.

Not everyone has these issues. My BC coilovers never made a clunk, but I knew how to properly set up the pre-load, ride height, and adjustable sway bar endlinks. A clunk from the front is most likely the sway bar contacting the lower control arm. That is the reason they come with adjustable end links so that you can place the sway bar in the correct location with a lowered ride height. I went with BCs because a South Eastern FR-S was breaking NASA TTD track records using them, so they were good enough for me.

Thanks, what's the max lowering inches the regular BC's go to?

I have no idea. I wasn't in the moar low crew. I wasn't tucking tire on mine:

http://brz.ridedomain.com/passenger.jpg

pfft everyone knows the gooder equipment makes you a moar better driver!!1!!one!

Thing is, this will be my first time installing coilovers so I'm not familiar with all that stuff... If I run into any problems I hope someone can help me out lol

I know. Imagine how much quicker I could have taken that I-10 to I-110 on ramp if I had went with ST or FA coilovers instead.

*whistles* Damn boi. Quickr'n'greasedlightning!

The ST coilovers seem nice just not sure if they will provide the kind of low I want

Can you clarify a bit on this for me? I'm having a bit of trouble with my sway bar end links contacting the front LCA.

I called the guys at Fortune, and they advised me to LENGTHEN the adjustable end links in order to push the sway bar down, and away from the control arm. As of recent, I've been reading that people have actually been shortening them instead when running lower ride height.

As it sits, my end links are maxed out in length and I'm still getting a bit of contact. Looking at it today, it seems that if the opposite were true, I'd actually need to have the sway bar ABOVE the LCA rather than below it to avoid contact.

I'm sorry if this sounds ultra noob, but it would help me a ton.

EDIT - I'm not in the ultra slammed club either, I still have plenty of room to go down -

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5472/...d22c7989_h.jpg

The correct way to set your sway bar end link lengths is to get the car on a drive on lift. This isn't always possible, but you could jack the car up and place it on some ramps or cinder blocks or something to get it high enough in the air under it's own weight to be able to get underneath it to adjust the sway bar end links. Ideally you want your weight in the driver seat as well, so if you have a buddy, have him sit in the car while you do this. Then you want the end of the sway bar to be as near parallel to the ground as possible so place it there and then lengthen/shorten each of the sway bar end links till the bar sits in that position without any preload from the end links. Setting the end link length this way you can see how close it ends up being to the lower control arm at ride height with the car under it's own weight. I would make sure it is at least a finger width's gap away from the lower control arm.

Thanks so much man, this helps a lot. So, in general, the end of the sway bar sits ABOVE the control arm, not below it?

Definitely.

I recently installed mine as well just a week ago! I had a small clunk up front, ended up removing the adjustment knobs on top and tightened down what I believe is the pilo nut on top? Correct me if I'm wrong.. (The nut under the adjustment knob). This tightened up the entire assembly Im told. I had a knowledgeable friend doing the majority of the work so I may be getting my terms mixed up! Over all very solid setup from there, not a single sound after we did this. Seems they all come abit loose from the factory since he had the same issue.