$100 overpipe from DC Sports
 

Anyone see this yet? Looks good to me...

http://www.phasteksport.com/2013-Sci...rz-sop7049.htm

their front pipe received good reviews from at least one poster:

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39665

less than 100 bucks?? datum

Buy some DC sports headers here:__________________________________SIKE good find though

is it the pic or the mid section looks a bit larger going to the third section mounting to downpipe?

someone get it and review!!

It is a flared design. Goes from 2 1/4 to 2 1/2.

i recon then it's not so good for people who have headers, or especially those with turbo's 3" downpipe.

This looks like something I'd be interested in especially for the price. Over pipe and cat delete for about 200 seems like a good deal

We got some headed in, but if DC Sports usual quality is true this thing won't be any good.

I knew it was only a matter of time before these pipes started showing up with out the "new car tax" 400$ for a over pipe is ridicules, but a agree with speedfactory, back in my Honda days it was always hit or miss with DC

I had a header from DC Sports on my 99 Accord coupe. The metal mounting tab broke off after a couple months and I tried getting in touch with DC for warranty and never heard back after multiple attempts at contact. That left a really bad impression to me in terms of their customer service so I've stayed away from them ever since.

I love how you guys are brutally honest.

Would you say the PLM overpipe is a better choice for those on a budget?

It's better quality that's for sure. We'll have a comparison soon on them.

I remember at one point in time they used to put out some good products, but a couple years ago i started seeing dc sports branded parts at pep boys. I guess that was the beginning of the end.

I actually purchased one a couple of days ago. I will take some pictures of it if whenever it comes in.

I would never put anything made by DC sports on my car.

As long as it fits and the welds hold up I don't see a problem. Most of all the over pipes I've seen are priced ridiculous for what it is. Actually most exhaust parts are way over priced for some stainless piping.

I'll be looking forward to that. I just ordered a PLM over pipe from you about a week ago (I think it's already been delivered, actually). When you do the comparison, could you weigh it? I would be most appreciative. Thanks!

There is no way that I can place them in the same class as Perrin or the P&L I saw the other day.

I actually listed them because some locals found them on fleabay and made an inquiry.

First, for comparison, let's show a couple of other overpipes. These are f1point4's.

P&L Left / Perrin Right. Perrin has obviously been on a vehicle for some time.

http://i805.photobucket.com/albums/y...psb18c2416.jpg

Here is the DC Sports overpipe:

http://i805.photobucket.com/albums/y...pse1f285c2.jpg

http://i805.photobucket.com/albums/y...psa51b10ad.jpg

http://i805.photobucket.com/albums/y...psee15128a.jpg

http://i805.photobucket.com/albums/y...psfa675597.jpg

What I didn't know until last year @ SEMA was that DC Sports is owned by Pilot Automotive. You might see some of their auxiliary lights at Auto Zone, Pep Boys, etc.

If it were 10 years ago, I wouldn't even hesitate. In this day and age, DC Sports products has gone to crap. My ceramic coated header on the beater Civic is still going strong after 10+ years :D

So I am not a welder nor an engineer, but what is wrong with this DC overpipe? Are the welds/steel they are using just shit?

I waited on the OP since I thought they were hella over priced, and this sounds reasonable. They all look the same, no cats, no resonators, no merge, just a metal pipe like my Invidia catless front pipe which was $200.

In my past experience it's the quality of the steel and welds.. First my welds broke, I had them re welded and the. Just rusted out or cracked.. I lived in central Texas, not known for salted roads during the winter lol, and they rusted. At the time that's what "everyone" was running and out of the three different headers one lasted awhile and seemed to be great quality, my first one, the second set on my 96 hatch lasted but rusted after awhile, not a rust through but worse then what I liked under my hood for a nice shiny show piece, the one for my 95 coupe was the one I had the most problems with and the one I owned the least amount of time..

Just got the pipe in but haven't installed it. I'm going to be installing it tomorrow, so i'll probably post an update later.

The pictures The middle bend pipe is either bigger than the other ends or its welded on really sloppy. The pictures of the pipe by Chris looks like mines too. The inside of the pipe looks okay from what I could see.

The biggest gap between the outer wall of the end pipes connecting to the middle bend pipe is around the depth of 2 quarters.

Here's a picture of a quarter at the welds with a quarter on top of it.

I have had this for about a week already and will be putting it on tomorrow as well. Mine looks the same although it doesn't seem to be restrictive when looking through it. I bought it mainly because the stud on my stock overpipe snapped when installing my front pipe. The shop I took it too to have the stud drilled out fu**ed it up royally so this is definitely better than an exhaust leak. And for the price, if it is shit, I can and most likely will replace it with a better one later

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I installed the pipe along with my AVO turbo kit. Massive rattling from the overpipe hitting the frame.

Probably a fair warning if you have aftermarket headers or turbo to not use this pipe. Maybe someone else who has this pipe can chime in on the fitment issues.

I'm probably going to go to a local muffler shop to build a custom overpipe. Most likely going to end up spending just as much as the other brand overpipes. :slap:

Yeah I'm N/A and got the pipe in yesterday. No rattle but it did make my front pipe mate to the rest of my catback kind of sloppy. There eneded up being a gap between the the two at the bottom of the flange. I was not a fan of the way everything came together in the end. The welds are not that great on the overpipe either. I went with a DC front pipe as well, my buddy somehow ended up being shipped two, and the welds on the front pipe are astronomically better than those found on the overpipe. All in all there is no exhaust leak along my exhaust so if you are solely buying this for a reason similar to why I bought it it's not a bad purchase but I will be replacing if and when I do a header or forced induction.

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Hey tiny! If you want, I can take the DC Sports pipe back for 100% credit, and we can discuss other options. Just shoot me a PM.

See that's a stand up vendor

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Wow
Thats awesome service right there


Sent from somewhere

So I bought one to try and save some money, was going to install it after being somewhat satisfied with the welds and quality for the price, but I just decided to return it for a refund after hearing of the fitment issues. Would rather not have to deal with it should I run into the same fitment issues. Going with a PLM overpipe now.

...You had it in your hand and didn't even try?

Couldn't get a refund from the vendor if I installed it and used it and it sprung a leak or hit the frame. Their return policy only accepted new and unused. I really don't want to deal with Pilot Automotive's warranty process either.

Yeah I mean like I said, the only real reason I installed it is because I was tired of my exhaust leaking at the over pipe. And to clarify, even though there was a gap between the front pipe and the cat back there was no leak. The gasket still sealed the exhaust but was slightly exposed. Obviously not ideal but still better than the horrible leak I had before.

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Understandable. Well you said you were somewhat satisfied with the welds. I assume you took it out of the box and held it? Did it feel like it was less than 3 pounds?

It felt lighter than stock. Other than that without weighing it couldn't tell you the exact weight.

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Yes I held it and mocked it up to the header flange. Definitely not less than 3 pounds. Felt more like 4-5 pounds.

Dang. I was hoping for it to at least be questionable. If it felt 4-5, it shouldn't be 2.x. Unless your hand scale's calibration is terribly off.

Guys this thing is not going to be "good" , "passable" with issues... maybe. I've already spoken with couple about this.

All you have to do is compare it next to another overpipe and after 3 seconds and you'll see right away it won't work. We'll have a video out early next week to show this.

Think of it his way. Mandrel bends.... how much do they cost?

A bend takes a certain amount of material to make as the machine needs so much material to hold on to. You're looking at 12" minimum, more depending on the radius, of pipe for a single bend. So lets say an over pipe takes 3 bends.

Your cost to bend the pieces averages out to be $27 a pop, and that's on the low side. Bam up to $81 in cost. Now that we got the bends done, lets pay some one to cut them to length. Then get someone to weld them, add flanges, and maybe a name plate. Now we're off to boxing and packaging making sure the ultimate shipping destroyers (UPS) don't ruin these (insurance). Then we have actual shipping cost into the USA yet.

It's a small part, no doubt, but it is not a easy part to make.