OEM lug nuts the lightest?
 

So I've been looking into lug nuts, and based on this photo:

http://img26.imageshack.us/img26/777/lugnutsv.jpg

...the OEM lug nuts are the lightest I've found so far. Although I admit I kind of stopped looking once I realized they might be lighter than Rays. I'm suspecting maybe that scale is just not precise or accurate at such small weights?

That just doesn't seem right. Maybe I screwed up the math? @JRitt?

use grams for lug nuts

yes, that scale doesn't look like it would be accurate for such a small size

also race application lugs are usually larger/longer for reasons of utility and strength

Yeah, that makes more sense. I'll convert them later, but still, the numbers will still convert to lower numbers for OEM vs. the others.

Once I get home (only 2 more months to go!!!) I'll be happy to weigh the stockers on a smaller scale and in grams. But until then, if someone wants to be heroic...

I weighed mine on a decent small scale and apart from the really light aluminum ones they are lighter. The OEM lugnuts don't weigh much at all. The issue for me is the lug seat area on them isn't very long so if you are using aftermarket rims you probably don't want to use them. But for OEM rims I wouldn't bother with anything else unless you want to switch colors, are using longer studs, etc.

Shameless plug. CSG aluminum lugnuts are tested through rally and track conditions. A set of 20 lugs weighed in at 13 ounces (368.5 grams), or approximately 0.04 lbs (18.4 grams) per lug nut. Weight was done by third party individual: @Captain Insano. :thumbup:

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...1&postcount=21

We have some ultra heavy duty lug nuts made from chromoly steel coming in for the guys who want to absolutely thrash their lug nuts to hell. They are 0.11lbs (49.9 grams) each. A sample of lug nuts were salt fog/environmentally tested to test the durability of the rust-resistant coating as well with certificate. :)

OEM lug nuts suck. The internal threads seem to be soft and easy to damage. They definitely do not hold up well to regular mounting and dismounting, even if handled with care.

Personally, I don't think there is much "speed" to be found in lug nuts alone, unless you are in a racing class that allows for a huge range of mods. I look for reliability and convenience of use.

I wanted a cheap fix and picked up a set of these steel ones a while back and they are great! Just long enough that they are easy to handle and thread on by hand and being steel, there is no worries that they will stretch with heat.

http://store.arkdesign-us.com/Wheel-...HORT_p_51.html

They use a 17mm, so being slightly narrower than stock (19mm) is good if you have have any clearance issues with your aftermarket rims.

How often have you guys had to retorque them between sessions? I've always avoided aluminum due to stories of them backing out or coming loose due to different thermal expansion rates w/ steel lug bolts.

Haven't had to retorque any of the lugs. :)

Gorilla forged aluminum are lighter than stock. Please refer to my wheel thread.

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38679

Thanks for the info, guys. Updated my post: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...&postcount=147

I dug up my OEM 2013 Subaru BRZ lugnuts and weighed them for you.

1 lugnut = 25 g (actual measurement)
5 lugnuts = 125 g (4.40925 oz., or 0.27558 lbs.) (actual measurement)
10 lugnuts = 250 g (actual measurement)

I weighed them on an accurate scale that measures in 1 g increments. I then measured 100 U.S. pennies as a reference check, and found it accurately measured 250 g, as it should. So, I think you can trust this measurement. Note that the lugnuts were not scrubbed clean and a 0.1 g scale would measure a bit of brake dust adhering to these dirty lugnuts. I hope this degree of accuracy is sufficient for your needs. :)

Stay safe.

And, thank you for your service.

Nice! And 125g is only .3 grams off of what I already had listed, so it's good to know peoples' scales are reading so close. I'll use this as an additional reference.

LOL!

See?

I told you they were dirty, didn't I?

I reckon there could be a good 0.3 grams of brake dust. Why do you think I mentioned it? :eyebulge:

Well actually, they were -.3g off. So your brake pads are apparently made of anti-matter. If that's not high performance, I don't know what is.

Ugh, Microsoft Paint.

From your post:

Lug nuts (x5)
0.590lbs | 267.6g - Muteki SR48 (Source)
0.440lbs | 199.5g - Muteki SR35 (Source)
0.410lbs | 185.9g - Gorilla Chrome Tuner (Source)
0.275lbs | 124.7g - OEM (Source) (Additional Source)
0.250lbs | 113.3g - Rays Engineering (Source)
0.250lbs | 113.3g - VMS Racing (Source)
0.202lbs | 092.0g - CSG aluminum (Source)
0.144lbs | 065.3g - Gorilla forged aluminum (Source)


124.7 g + 0.3 g brake dust = 125 g

Is it hot in that tent in the accursed desert? :D

Ugh. Yes, I guess it is. Good catch. Well still, anti-matter brake pads are still pretty fancy.

I'm sorry, Anthony. I didn't mean it to be at your expense. I'm just being silly, playing along with you; it's all in good-natured fun. ;)

Anti-matter brake pads sound cool! Have you tried them?

Oh I wasn't offended at all. I was just saying "ugh" at my carelessness. It's all good.

Haha and no, no experience yet.

But wouldn't there be a huge release of energy when the anti-matter brake pads came into contact with the disc? Oh wait, I forgot about the grooves in the discs to vent the plasma.

Yeah, man. Regenerative braking to the extreme.

Also, you can get the forged gorillas for about $100

.

This thread is awesome. So just a question. You can get the gorilla lugs in blue from amazon, [ame="http://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Automotive-44028BL-20-Thread-Aluminum/dp/B00SF8FNNS/ref=sr_1_23?srs=2529503011&ie=UTF8&qid=1444859778& sr=8-23&keywords=forged+aluminum"]in open[/ame] [ame="http://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Automotive-44128BL-20-Thread-Aluminum/dp/B00SF8FFWC/ref=sr_1_20?srs=2529503011&ie=UTF8&qid=1444859778& sr=8-20&keywords=forged+aluminum"]and closed[/ame] variety. Is their any reason to get one over the other? Should I get the closed because they are going to see snow and all that crap, or does it not matter at all.

Anyone got the weight of
TRD https://www.fensport.co.uk/products/...-1-25-gt86-brz
or
STI https://www.sti.jp/en/parts/subarubr.../ST28170ST000/

Are these the lightweight ones or the heavy duty ones?https://www.counterspacegarage.com/c...ugnuts-m12x125
If they are not the lightweight ones, can you share the correct link, please?

Thanks, Andrei

since those say chromoly steel I'd say those are the HD setup. Here are the aluminum ones:
https://www.counterspacegarage.com/p...-m12x125-black

hmm.. I saw those but they are 24g/lug nut.
From the table below, I tought they have some which weight 92g/5nuts.
Lug nuts (x5)
0.590lbs | 267.6g - Muteki SR48 (Source)
0.440lbs | 199.5g - Muteki SR35 (Source)
0.410lbs | 185.9g - Gorilla Chrome Tuner (Source)
0.275lbs | 124.7g - OEM (Source) (Additional Source)
0.250lbs | 113.3g - Rays Engineering (Source)
0.250lbs | 113.3g - VMS Racing (Source)
0.202lbs | 092.0g - CSG aluminum (Source)
0.144lbs | 065.3g - Gorilla forged aluminum (Source)

Ya, I see the page says 24g/nut but from the options I saw on their site (and the fact they're aluminium) I believe those are the correct ones. From CSG's post I guess they're actually more like 18.4g/nut

Unless you are meticulous, go with strong, not light, for lug nuts, regardless of brand.

Lugs!
 

0.264lbs | 120g - 949 Racing 7075 T-56 forged aluminum -5 lugs 12x1.25. 24g each
http://949racing.com/lugs-valves.aspx

Our lugs are not designed to be the lightest. That's folly. As a race team with few national championships, we focus on durability and serviceability. We use a 19mm hex instead of the smaller 17mm hex. This make a stronger lug. We also run the threads all the way to the end of the lug. The flange on the bottom forms a positive stop to the socket to aid in fast installation.

We have used these lugs in our enduro cars where we're changing all four tires, four times during the Thunderhill 25 hours. We use cordless impact guns to remove and install. no torque wrench. Guns calibrated to deliver roughly 100 ft-lbs. Zero issues.

Primary benefit for a HPDE, autocrosser or race car is that if you cross thread the lug, the lug dies but saves the stud. Having a ruined stud can end your race on a 4 lug car. We can't take that chance. As a bonus, they shed heat a bit better than steel or titanium lugs.

Steel lugs wear out too. We have found that steel or our forged alloy lugs last about the same. For light users, say 2 auto-x a year, they'll last pretty much forever. For enduro teams racing 4-6 times a year plus practice HPDE events, they'll last 2-3 years, about the same as steel lugs in the same use.

Pro tips:

-Regardless of lug brand, always re-torque lugs after first drive on new wheels. They will be loose.

-Retorque when wheels are cold. So right before yo go out each HPDE session, not right after you come off track.

-Hot lugs expand, aluminum more so. A 19mm socket will be a tight fit on a hot 19mm lug. We use 3/4" impact sockets for hot lugs.

- Always rotate lug at least one full turn by hand on stud before hitting it with ugga dugga. NEVER start a lug with the gun.

-Do not lube lugs or studs. That just attracts dirt that grinds your lugs to junk. Just plain clean parts will work best. If your OCD burns and you need to put something on, dry graphite lube is the only thing you should use. That's what NASCAR uses.

-Replace lugs when they feel wobbly on the stud, or have damage thread or any other damage you feel might compromise its structural integrity

- Real talk. Lugs, like so many other thing on a track car, are consumables. Don't expect them to last forever. Strictly street use though, they should pretty much last forever.