Originally Posted by rskdsk (Post 1234258)

Question: Have you guys every opened the hood ... started the car ... and listen to the engine for a couple of minutes?

My car starts normal, a minute or so until kick down ... then idles, then after about 30 seconds suddenly starts ticking louder on drivers side ... normal?

Originally Posted by Kelbyat07 (Post 1234281)

I dont know about the whole ticking sound but i heard from many people that once you fill up a car with a certain gas then you are suppose to use the same gas for the cars whole life. I would of tried getting a brand new car if i was in your position.

Originally Posted by Razz (Post 1234348)

Really?

You haven't got a clue how a car works.

Originally Posted by Razz (Post 1234348)

Really?

You haven't got a clue how a car works.

Originally Posted by SillySaxon (Post 1235779)

Crickets sound like a squeaky belt, they are from bad design HPFP seals and we are all waiting the glorious day when they stop forever

Originally Posted by chrisl (Post 1235822)

The crickets are not related to the injector seals. At all. The injector seal issue had to do with detonation with an older ECU tune under specific, high-RPM conditions.

(Didn't you already get corrected after posting this misinformation in a different thread?)

Originally Posted by wbradley (Post 1234288)

Don't worry the ECU pulls the timing instantly with knock detection. The only real negative is reduced volumetric efficiency (power). No damage done.

If you return the car you deserve a Veloster! LOL

Originally Posted by SillySaxon (Post 1235866)

Didn't say DI seal, hpfp seal.
Read

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Originally Posted by chrisl (Post 1236074)

And where is your evidence for this? I haven't heard anyone else claiming this to be the case.

Originally Posted by wbradley (Post 1234288)

Don't worry the ECU pulls the timing instantly with knock detection. The only real negative is reduced volumetric efficiency (power). No damage done.

Originally Posted by Asinar (Post 1236118)

I'd still be a little concerned about low octane if you were driving it hard (which you shouldn't be doing the first 1000 miles). The DI seal problem is ostensibly due to detonation from failure to properly retard ignition and excessive reliance on knock detection. That problem would be amplified with low-octane fuel and there is no guarantee the ECU mappings retard timing sufficiently for crap fuel. This is hypochondriac-level fretting so I wouldn't lose sleep over it but would take them up on the offer for a new new car.

My FR-S was a 500-mile demo car so Lord only knows what they did with (or put into) it but it seems to have staved off the cricket infestation. (Pressing my luck every time I say that.)



Now, I do have a technical question regarding knock sensors and ignition timing. My engine knowledge is primarily limited to airplanes (which is comparable to 1960's car technology) but I do know enough about control theory to be dangerous. I assume the engine detunes itself to maintain a specific (but finite) rate/level of knock (e.g. PID) not merely retard itself some arbitrary amount on first sign of knock. Does anyone know what the algorithms actually look like?

Originally Posted by rskdsk (Post 1236357)

Well ... car is now on its way back to toyota and I have a brand new series 10 (I paid an extra 1500). I was backing out of the driveway today and the car stalled ... last straw. I gave the car back with just over 500 miles on it and the only other AT at the dealership was a series 10. The color is not my first choice ... but the extra equipment sold me.

Originally Posted by wbradley (Post 1236174)

I read somewhere that knock is detected audibly (there is a sensor somewhere in the engine bay). This ECU uses considerable timing advance as the RPMs rise. Only reason I know this is that I have a timing advance gauge in Torque running on my dash mounted Nexus 7 tablet. For example, at idle the advance might be 11 degrees before top centre crank position and at 3500 RPMs it might be closer to 38 or 40. I would think the sensor would continue to retard timing until knock is supressed on a feedback loop. This way performance wont be totally ruined at 91 octane by retarding the same as if it was 87.