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S/C or Turbo in the Atlanta area?
Sorry if this has been done, if so direct me there and I'll close this thread.
Wanted to know if there was anyone in the Greater Atlanta Area or even Near by surrounding states that is running a Turbo'd or S/C'd FRS. I've got the money to do it, just not sure what I want to do. The question isn't what gives more boost. Here is the issue. I have the extended warranty when I purchased the vehicle. It was bought thru fidelity bank. I don't want to buy a turbo and lose the extended warranty I paid for. And I can do the TRD s/c and keep the warranty if a toyota dealer does the work. So what do you guys think? I'm not sure if I can get a refund on the warranty, but I was told I might be able to do so. I'm just concerned that I'm going to get the TRD s/c and not like it. Anyone? Any info is greatly appreciated. I'd rather talk to someone who has one on their frs than someone speculating how it will do. |
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Whats the deal with the TRD s/c? I haven't heard anything about it. Then again I haven't done a whole lot of research either. I briefly talked to the toyota service manager where I bought the car. (bought 5 cars from that dealership actually and they take care of any problem I've ever had so I trust them) He quoted me $4400 for the kit and $700 labor to install it. |
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Shit, I need to get the part number he was quoting me then. Must have been talking out of his ass or using a s/c for a different car. Either way I'm not sure. I will find out tomorrow and see what they say. Thanks for the info. Yea I hate to lose the warranty. I haven't had any issues like CEL or some of the other disaster stories I've read on here, but afraid I might once I do a turbo or s/c and then get stuck with a big ass paper weight. I'm not looking to drag race or race anyone... I just want more umpth you know. |
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Yea man I will let you know. If I void my warranty its going to be for the @FullBlown kit. I've been seeing their kit. I'd drive my car up and let them do it while I bullshit around their area and pick it up and drive it home when they are done... which is what I've been leaning really hard towards... |
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I live in the Atlanta area and am getting my fa20club turbo installed next week. Top speed motorsports in alpharetta will be doing the install for me and Toni @FA20Club.com will be dyno tuning remotely. Do your research on your warranty questions. From what I have read it seems like the burden of proof is on the dealer to prove your aftermarket parts damaged the car. Just having them doesn't void your warranty. But you also have to accept the risks of modding your car. If your turbo blows up your engine, its your fault and not scions or Subaru's.
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[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jTbLvGyPEqo"]King Tut's 2013 Subaru BRZ Full Blown Turbo Driving - YouTube[/ame] |
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Damn that sounds sexy!:w00t: |
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ya dont let toyota install anything end up with a pile of rubble for a motor lol |
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Thanks for all advice man. Hope to see you down at the meet in winter park, fl. Going to try to talk my buddy into driving his Cayman S down with me. |
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As for non-catted... NOT HAPPENING... car has to be inspected yearly and I don't know anyone to "overlook" that feature. I'll do aftermarket headers and do a high flow cat. So I'd be good buying a perrin exhaust from header to tip and be good? It wont mess up the engine riding like that until I buy the turbo? Not going to do the turbo until around Christmas. So in the meantime I will get the exhaust done. 2.75" or 3"? I'm doing this turbo for more power, not to track or race the car so I'm not looking for anything insane. Just more umpth. |
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Sorry, I'm a noob at some of this stuff. |
The general consensus seems to be that this motor doesn't need backpressure. When do you have to get the vehicle inspected? There is no guarantee that you will pass once you go turbo as most turbo kits include turbo manifolds with no cats. Also I think @Synack is in ATL now if you wanted to see the D3PE turbo kit in person.
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I'm not sure of the high flow cat options for the FR-S/BRZ as I am running straight turbo all the way out of the catback without any cats inbetween. But if you can go with a headerback exhaust with high flow cat, that would be your best bet. You would still most likely pass emissions. Sometimes the CEL could possibly go off, but they usually go away. It's just because most highflow cats are right at the edge of throwing off your oxygen sensor's accepted values. Depending on when you bought the car, if you bought it new, then you have exactly 2 years after purchase until you have to get emissions testing done. If you got the headerback (header,highflowcat,catback) all in 2.5", I would expect ~25whp without a tune. Possibly ~40whp with tune. It would be loud as shit though. Unless you got a catback with a damn good muffler. Good luck |
Just read the rest of the thread lol. If you want to stay safe and avoid breaking lots of stuff. I would go with no more than 300whp. And 300 might be pushing it on stock internals, depending on how you drive. Most of these people might disagree with that number because a lot of the turbo cars are shop cars, not daily drivers. 300 is a safer number for someone driving their car daily. Now I drive like an asshole, and I've already started breaking stuff. Just part of the deal of doubling your stock power. Blew out some gaskets, turbo is already leaking oil, transmission is already acting all fudged up. I'm sitting at just about 350whp. My compression is also much lower than stock. Personally, after driving Tut's car, I would recommend staying with stock compression and just not pushing the car too hard. It will save you a lot of money of the pistons/rods, and it will also allow you to have a much more linear power band.
Also if you stay below 300whp you will eliminate the need for methanol injection or E85. You can just stick to 93 pump gas only, which is more practical. When I drove Tut's car, he had power everywhere. The lag was more or less nonexistant. Which is the opposite of my car. With the compression drop, my car is a DOG under 4000rpms, but when it hits boost it's like a "freight train", quoted from Tut. If I had to do it again, I would prefer the lower power with stock compression and minimal lag. It's more fun that way. It's more practical. Although my highway drives are a blast lol. |
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LOL, Yea not looking to go over 300whp. Was thinking a modest 250-300 would do just fine. My car isn't even a daily driver... its a weekend driver... lol. Tut's build sounds about perfect. I didn't see if he had done anything to exhaust or not. I was thinking going ahead and running the stock motor n/a with the upgraded exhaust until I could get the turbo put on. I don't want it to be super loud, if its that loud its going to be annoying to drive and take away from the sound of the turbo. LOL, So 2.75"? or 3"? If 3" is going to make me lose too much BP while n/a I'll wait and have it done at the same time I have the turbo done. Was just trying to be proactive. |
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I've got the FA20club turbo kit on mine if you wanted to check it out as well. In McDonough GA. i will also be at the nopi nationals show this weekend in commerce
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Yeh TRD SC is def not 4400.. That is crazy. its def you must buy 2 and its over 50k. I would get a Turbo charger that gives you a warranty. Just because you get a turbo charge doesnt mean your whole warranty is voided. your are still good for suspension, and everything else. Just not the most expensive part(the engine) I always look at the warrantys of aftermarket parts. some are better than the toyota warranty. like my Stance coilovers. |
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@pixel67 I just dropped my car off at Topspeed for some work and I saw your car there, they were tuning it on the dyno. They've got 2 turbo 86's in house now lol.
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Hope to pick it up today. Didn't know they were tuning it already!
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