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Buddy32's WRB BRZ "Buddy"
Starting a build thread to keep track of what I've done, and how much money this car is sucking from me. :bellyroll:
I live in Atlanta. This car is my DD and I have only driven on the street (spiritedly). Purchased "Buddy" (very original i know) 4th of July weekend, and have done small cosmetic stuff so far, but FI is on the wish list. Driving the car stock first and also hope to make it out to the track to learn more about it. I've never taken apart a car before, but hoping to learn with this car. Going to try my best to do stuff myself hopefully with some help. There's so much info on here! Hopefully I'll receive some pointers in here as well! Looking forward to getting schooled! Edit (3/25/15): No longer a DD but still driving at least 3 days out of the week. Learning a lot as I go along with this car. At dealership: http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5331/9...56f2ef52_z.jpg OEM Audio + Reference: http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3716/1...ddb04bd8_z.jpg 4th Brake Light/ Fog Light Enable: http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7384/9...d792907dc8.jpg Anarchy Motive Shift Knob: http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5531/9...0f2757fc53.jpg Done so far: Cosmetic/Comfort/ Safety: 4th Brake/ Fog Light Enable Rally Armor Mud Flaps Grimmspeed Hood Struts OEM Audio + Reference 400 @oemaudioplus @Anarchy Motive Shift Knob (Tiger Blue) @Diode Dynamics Always On Module @Raceseng Front + Rear Tow Hooks Agency Power Bolt-in Harness Bar Brakes: AP Racing Sprint BBK Spiegler SS Brake Lines Torque RT700 Brake Fluid Carbotech 1521 Brake Pads for Street Carbotech XP10 Brake Pads for Track GT3 Brake Air Guides Radium Engineering Master Cylinder Brace Wheels/Tires: Set 1: Stock (SOLD) Set 2: Enkei Raijin 18x8 +45 Powdercoated Gold, wrapped in 245/35-18 Bridgestone RE760 Square Set 3: Gram Lights 57Xtreme 17x9.0 +40, wrapped in 245/40/17 Bridgestone Potenza RE-11A @CounterSpace Garage Chromoly Lug Nuts ARP Extended Studs Suspension: @Racecomp Engineering Tarmac TII @Raceseng Cas/Cam Plates Whiteline Front Camber Bolts Whiteline Positive Traction Kit (KDT922) Whiteline Support Outrigger Insert (KDT925) Whiteline Front + Rear Sway Bar End Links @ptuning Turbo Build: Ptuning GT3076R Turbo Kit (Charge Pipes Powdercoated Black) Ptuning Fueling Package (770CC Injectors, 4Bar MAP Sensor, ECUtek) Ptuning Small Battery Tray Kit (Odyssey PC680 Battery) Ptuning EBCS Ptuning Oil Cooler Kit Ptuning EL Headers Ptuning 3" SS Turbo-Back Exhaust System Koyo Radiator Radium Engineering Dual Oil Catch Cans ACT PTSB7-HDG6 Clutch Kit (OEM Release Bearing) Monitoring: ATI Triple Gauge Pod AEM Wideband Failsafe Innovate MTX Dual Oil Pressure/ Temp Fluids: Motul Gear 300 Motul Gear 300 LS Motul 300V 5W30 Etuned by Toan at @ptuning |
looks good in there man. nice looking car!
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Very nice. Did you do the interior lighting yourself or was it a kit you bought?
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http://www.phastekperformance.com/20...well-light.htm |
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Cool thanks! |
Ordered the OEM Audio + reference series a while back and neglected to post it. I ordered it when the website still said "pre-orders only" and it did indeed come after 2 weeks.
What box looked like first opened: http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7429/1...26eddf09_z.jpg Painted sub: http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3826/1...4e5f6f40_z.jpg A true plug and play system. Didn't cut any wires. Replaced the factory woofers on the doors, and also the tweeters on the top deck. Removed the 3.5" on the top deck since they were just being bypassed. The instructions weren't as complete as I would have liked, but everything on this car is pretty easy to disassemble and reassemble. Figured everything out from videos and called them to ask a few questions during installation. The connectors that go directly into the radio unit seemed a little different. Had a hard time getting it in there, and finally just dremmeled the "fins" on them to get them to fit into the radio (no problems after dremmeling). Connectors: http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7456/1...5c7bfdb7_z.jpg Sound quality is much better, with the bass extremely clear. Did not do any sound deadening work in the doors, and it still hits clean and relatively hard without an rattles. The doors would rattle on the stock system around volume level 30, and now it doesn't anymore even at high volume levels. This is most likely the simplest/easiest way to add quality sound to your 86 with minimal wiring work and not add a significant amount of weight. Overall extremely satisfied with the system. I need to start making it out to some meets but if you'd like to check it out in person and are in the Atlanta area, feel free to PM me! |
Pretty long but good weekend and some exposure for me!
First off, finally tried my hand at vinyl wrapping. Decided awhile ago that I needed to accent the awesome @Anarchy Motive tiger blue shift knob, and ordered some blue carbon fiber vinyl wrap off ebay. Finally gave it a shot and went pretty well. Just wrapped the two dash pieces and the door handles. I'm thinking about plasti dipping the rest (steering wheel, air vents, 2 big pieces in between the ac controls) and using the gold metalizer to go with the eventually gold/ dark bronze wheels. http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7316/1...58ebf62e_z.jpg Went for a drive with a buddy up in the north GA mountains around Turner's Corner Cafe and had a blast up there. Gassing up and getting ready: http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3680/1...51dc16b3bf.jpg View from a stop up top: http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7396/1...9043c2e45f.jpg Stopped by AMP on the way back and Velocity Motorsports were doing their driving experience programs, checked out the go-karts at the back area (those things look so much fun to drive!) and finally even got a ride in one of the guys' dedicated track M3. Track: http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5495/1...828416c6a0.jpg Velocity's Lambo: http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5548/1...40224998d5.jpg Doing small stuff and trying to keep my attention away while I save up for performance mods and at the same time learn to drive the car stock well before I dig in! |
Been a long time since I've updated.
Since the last time I wrote, I've picked up some Enkei Raijins 18x8 +45, had them powdercoated gold, and wrapped them in 245/35-18 Bridgestone RE760s square setup. Still going to hang on to stock wheels/tires for now. Going to run the stock tires at RA probably till they die. http://i660.photobucket.com/albums/u...d.jpg~original Also picked up a used Sprint BBK from @CSG Mike with all the goodies, Spiegler SS brake lines all around, ARP extended studs, 10mm spacers (to run stock wheels), CSG Chromoly lug nuts, Torque 700RT Brake Fluid, a set of Carbotech 1521 brake pads for the street, and a set of Carbotech XP10 brake pad for the track. http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5544/1...106e1516_c.jpg Please ignore wheel gap. Suspension mods are up next after March track event. Huge shout out to @CSG Mike answering all my questions patiently and the guidance he provided along with @ImperiousRex! Transaction was also smooth with no problems whatsoever! All signed up for March 15/16 HPDE with NASA at RA, can't wait! |
Your wheels in gold look great!
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Jealous of the BBK, congrats!
More pics of those gold Raijins please!! |
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I'll snap more pics next time I have em on the car. You could browse through some of the pics on http://davidnew.net/site/2014/01/05/...-january-2014/ |
Blue and gold is such a classic and looks great. Did you do any more work to the interior after the dash vinyl?
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http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3756/1...814b7fea_c.jpg http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2816/1...bcfa6e36_c.jpg |
Track weekend update
Had a crazy awesome time this past weekend at Road Atlanta at the HPDE event! Ran with the stock wheels and tires, Saturday was dry, and Sunday was wet. Ran both days and learned a great deal! The Sprint Kit from @CSG Mike was great, ran them with XP10s, and had no problems whatsoever! Thanks again Mike!
I set up the Nexus 7 with Torque to keep an eye on temps and the only thing that caught my eye was the oil temps creeping it's way up to the 270s (absolutely stock car besides brake work). Lotus that was running in the same group with R888's. http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2864/1...0b0c34284b.jpg My buddies and I setting up http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2872/1...627f90f758.jpg Surprised to find the @FT-86 SpeedFactory crew out there getting some track time in the TT Group!! http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3710/1...902d7af3a8.jpg http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7139/1...1690f87c30.jpg http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3768/1...d3ceb59d3f.jpg Had brief conversations with both Jeremy and Yo, they're extremely nice guys! Talked about what kind of products they are developing as well and I'm definitely excited to keep my ears perked for news from them!! I left before the last session to get home with time left to change the pads back to the 1521's and also put the Enkei's back on. http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2839/1...956b82e3dd.jpg If anyone was wondering, the wheels clear the AP Sprint Kit with PLENTY of room to spare. http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2833/1...9523212f41.jpg A few fun track photos: Pics |
Staying true to the "not updating as much as I should" trend!!
Some pretty big suspension changes have been made since the last time I posted. Purchased and installed RCE T2's, SPL rear LCA's, and Raceseng Cas/Cam Plates. I also changed the differential and transmission oil out for Motul Gear 300 and Motul Gear 300LS as well as the engine oil with Motul 300V high rpm @CSG Mike's recommendations. Some pics: https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5480/...e4920989_b.jpg https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3810/...9e0bcca9_b.jpg On the alignment rack at GTE: https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3694/...ef5fa618_b.jpg Alignment Sheet: https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2935/...bb14aefb_b.jpg Obligatory pic: https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2904/...9c49f04a_b.jpg Didn't use camber bolts up front, used the slots on the RCE T2s and the cas/cam plates and there's still adjustment left on the front. Even though I haven't tracked it yet, holy cow! What. A. Difference!! I can't WAIT to get back out to a road course and push the car! Just gotta be careful with the car being lower to not hit a slope it can't tackle. :D Shout out to @ATL_BRZ, @Racecomp Engineering, @CSG Mike, @normancw, and @Sportsguy83 for answering all the questions I had. Couldn't have done it in my garage without you guys being patient with me. I learned lots and owe it to you guys! :thanks: |
Dat WRB doe.....
Sent from my SM-N900A using Tapatalk |
looks really good!
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sex.
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Went out to Road Atlanta last weekend and had a great time! Ran the stock wheels and tires on day 1 and the 18x8 Raijins with 245 Bridgestone RE760 day 2. Started sliding around a little on the stocks, but nothing uncontrollable and nothing bad happened (Laps consistently stayed around the 2 minute mark). Played around with braking points and trail braking and understeered a few times before taking that lesson to heart.
First time I've actually gotten into ABS braking into almost EVERY turn. The Essex sprint kit is definitely giving me a lot of braking power, which makes me think I may be braking a little too early and not carrying enough momentum through the corners with me. I'm running the Carbotech XP10s on the track and the smoke coming off was pretty thick on a red flag drill. Should I be concerned? @JRitt, @CSG Mike? Saw oil temps at 265 when I forgot to turn the AC off, and 260 when I turned it off. Sighhhh.... probably gonna need an oil cooler soon... RCE T2 from @Racecomp Engineering gave me a lot more confidence going through the turns and a lot less roll/ slide on the stock tires. I know I can push it some more on the wider tires with more speed and momentum, but I like to stay on the more conservative side until I get more comfortable with those corner speeds. At the end of the day, I still gotta drive the car home! I welcome any criticism that anyone would have to offer for the video. [ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XUFQiS23PBI"]WJL 2013 Subaru BRZ @ RA - YouTube[/ame] Edit: Forgot that @ATL BRZ has already given me some feedback on the video, and recommended the GT3 brake cooling air "directors". I have them on order! Woot! |
I've promised some more pics and here are some that were from the June C&O in Atlanta.
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5314/...9e1dc012_b.jpg https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3865/...9d126e72_b.jpg https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3918/...24cff092_b.jpg https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3840/...b313653c_b.jpg https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5551/...bfc68969_b.jpg https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3894/...08ec2443_b.jpg |
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Getting into ABS definitely is not an issue as long as it isn't distracting you. I'd just keep creeping your brake points up slowly. Keep in mind though, that you're out there for fun. I wouldn't risk stuffing it just to gain 5 feet and save 0.01 seconds! As for smoke, no need to really worry unless you're catching fire...which can happen. Sometimes if you're smoking heavily and pull into the pits, the pads will burst into flames. Always do a cool-down lap off the brakes if at all possible (obviously if it's a red flag that's not possible). Brake ducts are also a good idea for sure. |
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I was going up T1 and saw the red flag. Ended up btw T2 and T3 (there was someone behind me, didn't just slam on my brakes to stop) . I shut the motor off and put it in gear, and then noticed the smoke. :lol: |
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Compared to most SoCal drivers, I consistently have lower Vmin and Vmax during a lap, but turn in faster lap times because my cornering speeds are higher. I make sure I'm composed when I enter a corner (or at least as close to composed as I can be). Smoking pads is normal, especially if you had to suddenly stop (red flag). It's usually either the paint or grease (if you use shims) burning off. If your bite didn't drop off, then you haven't faded the pads. Your pedal will get mushy if you boil the fluid. You want to just barely stay off of the ABS; the XP10 should help you achieve that since they're fairly easy to modulate due to the compressible nature of the pad. You'll definitely want an oil cooler soon. |
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I'm kinda torn on going big with RCE T2's or RCE yellows and Blstein B8's overtime. |
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Do you have another car, or is this your daily? For what it's worth, I would make the same decision and still go T2s with standard rates, even if the BRZ was my only car. @ATL BRZ may want to chime in here as well. He's got the same coilover/bbk setup. :thumbup: But came from yellows/stock setup. |
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Also, can you reuse the OEM hats? I'm not a hardcore tracker like @ATL BRZ. It'll be a DD, with lots of mountains whenever I can. So I'm not in a rush to get the 'perfect' track alignment, so camber bolts and OEM tophats would be preferrred. |
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Springs are a great option but they will only get you so far (which is pretty damn far IMO) once you start high performance driving with the car. Springs + Sway bars will get you even further. Right around the time you begin using wide/sticky (245s and above) street tires or RComps you will notice the springs on oem dampers to not quite be up to the task IF and ONLY IF you're flogging the car at the limit of adhesion. Another good, cheaper coilover option would be the RCE Tarmac Zero's with preset damping and softer springs. If you're cool with a mild drop like .8 inches then go with the Yellows and camber bolts, it's a great upgrade with perfect DD-ability. If you want to really adjust your ride height, then go ahead and get some entry level coilovers. No need for the T2's for your application, IMO. |
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It was the dialing back for OE ride quality I'm looking for. I'm afraid that the Zero's may be configured too stiff. Is that true? If the Zero's can use OEM tophats, that might be what I go for. But your setup with the Yellows seemed great. But that brings another question. For the OE dampers, I generally like the handling of the FRS. I don't fully understand how the stiffer spring rates will react to the OE dampers. But I was leaning towards the swifts because they were a little softer and closer to the factory FRS ratio. 2.3/3.8 - Stock FRS 2.7/3.5 - Stock BRz 4.4/5.3 - Swift Spec-R's 4.4/4.4 - RCE Yellows 3.8/4.5 - Swift BRZ 3.0/4.5 - Swift FRS |
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http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38403 http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=52755 If you go with springs, given that you want to preserve the oversteery nature of the FR-S in stock form, I'd go with the Swift FRS springs as you'll be happiest with those. The Yellows will make the car handle much more neutral with equal rates. |
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So the ratios will generally affect the oversteer nature. What about the actual spring rates? I was thinking the BRZ Swifts to make it more neutral, but still lean towards oversteer. What would the difference be between: 4.4/5.3 - Swift Spec-R's and 3.8/4.5 - Swift BRZ |
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Haven't made any updates in a hot min.
Update: power mods coming. purchased the Ptuning turbokit and I can't say enough about the guys at @ptuning. The countless fb messages @Mrc@ptuning answered as well as Toan taking the time over the phone to answer all the questions I had for him. Mike and Patrick took care of the ordering process and were extremely accommodating even though I changed my mind on a few items quite a few times over the 3 week wait period. Communication was A+++++++++++. I ordered pretty much the whole sch-bang to try and do this right the first time. Ptuning header (thermal coated, although didn't take it apart oops...), Ptuning turbo kit, Ptuning turbo back exhaust system, Ptuning oil cooler kit, Ptuning EBCS, Koyo Radiator, got the rear sway bar since Ptuning includes a new front sway bar in the turbo kit, rear end links (so that I can get corner balancing done later on), Innovate oil temp/pressure gauge, AEM wideband failsafe, Raidum dual catch cans, Ptuning lightweight battery tray kit (Odyssey PC680), ACT 6 puck PTSB7-HDG6 clutch. I'm travelling for a few weeks and will start the install process hopefully Jan 8th. Everything was packaged EXTREMELY well. Inspected parts for damage and didn't see anything that jumped out at me. The box that contained the exhaust looked like it was ripped up a bit, but there was extra padding inside so nothing was damaged. Everything had it's own little bag/ label. Probably one of the most detailed packing jobs I've seen from any company for any product. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7462/...99be23c4_z.jpg https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7525/...40290a25_b.jpg https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7517/...4ec628be_c.jpg https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8563/...073b1f5d_c.jpg https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8670/...499e4cb0_c.jpg https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7501/...993f6369_c.jpg https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7583/...15971f10_c.jpg Shout out to @Reaper, @CSG Mike, @ATL BRZ, @rb6freak, @s30series, @ptuning, @Mrc@ptuning for all the help, discussions and info!! Can't thank these guys enough for being so helpful really even when they didn't need to be. :thumbup: for the enthusiasts on the forum!!:thanks: Can't wait for Jan 8th!!!!!!!!! Haven't been this excited for a long time!:happyanim: |
Today is January 8th, I'm ready to see how this turns out :thumbup: I made an account here just because, I've been reading for a few months. Currently deployed, but looking at getting a used 86(or maybe new for the right price) when I get home, and going with the ptuning kit. I'm interested to see how you do with it! I like where your ride is going!
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Brief overview of what's been done so far...
The clutch, header, injectors, 4 bar map sensor, koyo radiator, front sway bar and end links are complete. Just started to dig into the kit. The first few steps are done of relocating stuff and removing windshield wiper fluid reservoir. Cam plate is replaced and the next step will be figuring out the lines and then on to the exciting parts!! Work schedule will begin on Monday, so I'll only be able to work on the car on Fridays and Saturdays. We're taking our sweet time though, want to make sure we do everything correctly. The hardest part so far has been getting the sway bar inserts on the damn sway bar itself...everything else has gone pretty smoothly. https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8593/...fa36c1a7_b.jpg https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8624/...02644dc2_b.jpg 20k miles https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7500/...652a6733_b.jpg https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7565/...ac35dc6e_b.jpg https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7540/...b3ce84b5_b.jpg |
Made some headway this weekend. Ran into some hiccups, but will see how things turn out. Not sure if anyone else who's installed this kit has run into the same problems or not, but if so, please chime in!!
We have the turbo, wastegate, oil savenge pump, and intercooler mounted. I'll take some better pictures next time. Everything mounted up the way it was supposed to, but tight spaces and the lift being taken made things a little bit harder to do with the car on jack stands. If you have a lift, use it! https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7523/...b5d1ac83_b.jpg The oil lines going to the turbo were updated but the installation instructions were not, so we were scratching out heads for a bit trying to make sense of the instructions. The thermal wrap included in the kit was not the correct one as well but they shipped the updated ones out on the same day. @Mrc@ptuning responded almost immediately on FB and got the guys at the @ptuning shop to email me the diagram and Mr. C made sure I understood where everything was supposed to go. Level of communication is first rate! https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8657/...a9146d5d_b.jpg I know, can't tell much from the picture above, but we were just so goddamn excited to get the intercooler on. Also, we wasted more than a few minutes after bolting stuff up under the car admiring how well everything was fabricated and laid out, i'm sure i'm not the first person to say this. On to my problem/ question. I've got the RCE T2's installed on the car with Raceseng camber plates. Camber was set at -3 before I started this turbo install. After we re-installed the sway bar included in the kit, we proceeded to install the end links. I turned the hub assembly to get some clearance to make the connections and noticed that it was extremely close on top. When I turned the assembly one way, the top would scrape against the wheel well. When I turned the assembly the other way, the bottom of the coilover would come into contact with the body of the end link. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7571/...b5a386f2_b.jpg https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8652/...4289efda_b.jpg Will this problem will solve itself when I lower the car back down onto the ground? I'm pretty sure I have the endlinks situated the correct orientation, the top facing the rotors, and the bottom facing the motor. Patrick at the shop advised to reel in the camber a little from -3 degrees and it may solve the problem. I obviously haven't screwed with it and just thought I'd deal with it later. If anyone has any insight, please advise? |
So close I can taste it!
@Mrc@ptuning continues to provide awesome support. Came into an issue where the pipes weren't clearing in the engine bay and with help from both Mr C. and @rb6freak, finally got the clearance needed with some playing around. We thought the intercooler piping was gonna be easy, but turns out it's reeeeeally tight and takes some meddling around to get everything perfect. Got the camber bolts but haven't installed them yet. Thanks to @sw20kosh for the input!! Still need to install are gauges, EBCS, some bushing inserts, camber bolts. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7315/...1d711fff_b.jpg https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7458/...d804f4b7_b.jpg The factory MAF sensor didn't want to get plugged back in and it seemed like the plug was coming into contact with the surface of the mounting location and we grinded a tiny bit off the side. https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8612/...9d923578_b.jpg https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7290/...7ee98694_b.jpg https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8576/...9147c77e_b.jpg |
Wasn't able to tell from the pictures but was the washer fluid bottle relocated or removed completely? On another note, this build is awesome!
-Carlos |
As of right now it's just removed completely. I'll get it later on if I really feel like I need it. In the meantime, I'll just have a spray bottle of fluid in the trunk or something... :p
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