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-   -   (GOOD QUESTION) Which Spring make a higher front bumper? Tein H tech, RS-R or Swift? (https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=44221)

Figo 08-13-2013 02:49 PM

(GOOD QUESTION) Which Spring make a higher front bumper? Tein H tech, RS-R or Swift?
 
3 Attachment(s)
:bonk:I have an FR-S with Five Axis Body Kit. Now I am thinking to drop it by lowing springs. However, I am not going to make my front bumper too low cuz I will have to park on my driveway ramp everyday. The front bumper on my old car was too low and they almost went off after half a year.

Here are three options that I am considering about.

link: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8739

(1) RS-R S/Down 1.0"/3.2k 1.2"/4.5k
(2) Swift Sport FRS 1.0"/3.0k 1.0"/4.5k
(3) Tein H-Tech *NOTE* 1.0"/2.9k 0.8"/4.8k

(FOR the Tein, all other website said that they are 1.0 front and 0.8 rear drop.But in the link above, it said 0.9 front, 0.7 rear.)

These three type of lowing spring all drop 1.0'' front; however, the rear drop are different. Here are my questions.

Question 1: I am thinking that whether dropping more on the rear will make the car kinda "Raise Head" in order to make my front bumper a little bit higher?(Please see my diagram below in the attachment).

Question 2: If the answer of question 1 is a "No", which means the front drop and rear drop does not affect each other, then here is another question: Does that answer also mean "1.0 front and 1.2 rear drop" will not result in a lower front bumper that "1.0 front, 0.8 rear drop"?

I do want to gain more oversteer cuz I'v changed 225/40R18 front tire and 245/40r18 rear tires on 18X8.5 +44 and 18X9.5 +38 rims for look already. So soft front and hard rear spring will be what I am going to consider.

Thanks everyone!

KKaWing 08-13-2013 03:52 PM

BRZ/FR-S Suspension Options List (Springs and Coilovers) - Scion FR-S Forum | Subaru BRZ Forum | Toyota 86 GT 86 Forum | AS1 Forum - FT86CLUB

^^^ Good place to look at spring rates (might need a few updates but still useful). Also look into alignment (and I don't mean back to stock). It might help with what you are looking for.

mike the snake 08-13-2013 03:59 PM

I love your drawings! Sweet.

Racecomp Engineering 08-13-2013 04:31 PM

Our RCE yellow springs only lower 20mm front and rear. It's a good look IMO.

They have even rates front and rear...but you won't have understeer because we also include shortened bumpstops. Soft front springs with a drop will be bumpstop active and the bumpstops are pretty firm.

- Andy

Figo 08-13-2013 04:35 PM

This link is actually in my thread. hah. Thanks anyway.

Quote:

Originally Posted by KKaWing (Post 1138175)
BRZ/FR-S Suspension Options List (Springs and Coilovers) - Scion FR-S Forum | Subaru BRZ Forum | Toyota 86 GT 86 Forum | AS1 Forum - FT86CLUB

^^^ Good place to look at spring rates (might need a few updates but still useful). Also look into alignment (and I don't mean back to stock). It might help with what you are looking for.


Figo 08-13-2013 04:35 PM

I know! :bellyroll:

Quote:

Originally Posted by mike the snake (Post 1138187)
I love your drawings! Sweet.


Figo 08-13-2013 04:43 PM

lol, these r the only lower spring with even spring rate... I just can not agree that other factories are all wrong...lol

Quote:

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering (Post 1138268)
Our RCE yellow springs only lower 20mm front and rear. It's a good look IMO.

They have even rates front and rear...but you won't have understeer because we also include shortened bumpstops. Soft front springs with a drop will be bumpstop active and the bumpstops are pretty firm.

- Andy


KKaWing 08-13-2013 05:05 PM

Oops didn't see the link :p

You could also use swaybars to tune it after you get springs and they're not exactly to your liking. A bit of a hassle to install though.

Racecomp Engineering 08-13-2013 05:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Figo (Post 1138300)
lol, these r the only lower spring with even spring rate... I just can not agree that other factories are all wrong...lol

I'm not saying everyone else is all wrong. I'm saying that our springs don't understeer and explaining why. Honestly, ours are similar feeling to stock when you take the bumpstops and shock travel into account (which you should).

But everyone has different design goals and methods. Good luck in your search.

- Andy

Figo 08-13-2013 06:10 PM

Yep, rear sway bar. Thats what I was thinking.

Quote:

Originally Posted by KKaWing (Post 1138366)
Oops didn't see the link :p

You could also use swaybars to tune it after you get springs and they're not exactly to your liking. A bit of a hassle to install though.


console_cowboy 08-13-2013 06:49 PM

I would have to really suggest the RCE Yellow springs. The shortened bumpstops really do help with keeping a totally factory feel. I have had them on my car for several months and they perform great. The drop is fairly small, which would also assist with your body kit. And like others have said, if you find that you can not rotate with the RCE Yellows, add a rear swaybar. I'm running a very similar wheel setup as well, with 245/35/18 tires on 18x8.5" front wheels and 255/35/18 on 18x9.5" rear wheels, so I have a good idea of a staggered setup on RCE Yellow springs.

Those guys really did their research. I've talked to them on the phone and through email during the car's setup and they've been super helpful and knowledgeable.

Don't forget that your alignment will play a huge part in this too. You really need to considering adding a way to adjust your camber on all four wheels. It is very helpful to tuning the feel of the car.

Figo 08-13-2013 08:09 PM

Thank you for your advice man, and thank you for ur advice in another thread hah. I will get my rims at the end of September, so I still have over one month to struggle on it. lol. Actually I did not plan to get things like control arms. A rear sway bar sounds good to me. hah.

Its actually the first time I own a Rear wheels drive car. And it is the first time I own a new car too。 I financed it only 1 month after I graduated. So I love it! and would like to make it perfect.

Did you try sliding ur rear wheels at corner? Is that easy with these springs?I can do it really easy with stock setting at around 20-30mph, and was almost addicted to it. I do not need any speed, just need a set of spring with these corner fun.


Quote:

Originally Posted by console_cowboy (Post 1138615)
I would have to really suggest the RCE Yellow springs. The shortened bumpstops really do help with keeping a totally factory feel. I have had them on my car for several months and they perform great. The drop is fairly small, which would also assist with your body kit. And like others have said, if you find that you can not rotate with the RCE Yellows, add a rear swaybar. I'm running a very similar wheel setup as well, with 245/35/18 tires on 18x8.5" front wheels and 255/35/18 on 18x9.5" rear wheels, so I have a good idea of a staggered setup on RCE Yellow springs.

Those guys really did their research. I've talked to them on the phone and through email during the car's setup and they've been super helpful and knowledgeable.

Don't forget that your alignment will play a huge part in this too. You really need to considering adding a way to adjust your camber on all four wheels. It is very helpful to tuning the feel of the car.


console_cowboy 08-13-2013 10:40 PM

I have no issue with sliding my rear wheels, even with the much larger tires. The tires I have are not the best, so that probably helps. The car is just easy to flick with the proper input. I really like the feel of the yellows, the stock springs didn't feel as close a match to the better tires. Also, about the rear sliding, that will decrease some with any higher grip tires. I imagine getting a set of adjustable sway bars would allow you to dial some more of that in. Playing with the alignment can be good too if you if you can find some place with a lifetime alignment. You can even make your rear end rotate better with any stiffening, even with tire pressure. The additional stiffness of the aftermarket control arms made my car rotate a bit better. I'd listen to the RCE guys though, they've helped me a ton and they really are into the design and performance. There is a lot more to suspension and how it will rotate than the spring rates, and I'm still learning more all the time.

garfull 08-14-2013 12:49 AM

I also have the 5axis kit and just installed the swift springs. Prior to installing I had a fender to ground measurement of 26.2 Front and 26.6 Rear. Now it's 25 even on all 4 corners so it seems like I got more than the advertised 1.0 drop front and rear. It does look like the rear is lower than the front because I can get just 1 finger in the wheel gap in the rear and almost 1.5 fingers in the front and I'm pretty sure the rear has more gap than the front. Although this could be a side effect of the diffence between my front and rear camber. I looked at side profile pics of others that have swift springs and it does look like the rear gap is smaller than the front. I have a really bad driveway too and I was doglegging it up before with my coilovers but it's not a problem now with the swifts.

Figo 08-14-2013 08:20 AM

I just check those Whiteline Strut mount, looks good, and the price is reasonable. Did you just install the spring and the Whiteline Strut mount on stock shock? Will u be able to change the camber by urself at home or u will have to ask someone to do it in the store when doing four wheel alignment?

Quote:

Originally Posted by console_cowboy (Post 1139158)
I have no issue with sliding my rear wheels, even with the much larger tires. The tires I have are not the best, so that probably helps. The car is just easy to flick with the proper input. I really like the feel of the yellows, the stock springs didn't feel as close a match to the better tires. Also, about the rear sliding, that will decrease some with any higher grip tires. I imagine getting a set of adjustable sway bars would allow you to dial some more of that in. Playing with the alignment can be good too if you if you can find some place with a lifetime alignment. You can even make your rear end rotate better with any stiffening, even with tire pressure. The additional stiffness of the aftermarket control arms made my car rotate a bit better. I'd listen to the RCE guys though, they've helped me a ton and they really are into the design and performance. There is a lot more to suspension and how it will rotate than the spring rates, and I'm still learning more all the time.


Figo 08-14-2013 08:31 AM

HAH nice. I saw ur thread about ur tc with coilovers, hah. What tire size are u runing? I did not see any picture. I think tire size does matter. I am going to run 225/40r18 and 245/40r18 on 18X8.5 +44 and 18X9.5 +38. And the new front and rear wheel diameter are 0.47'' and 1.0'' larger that stock wheels. I will have to see the height difference after installing my new wheels. I ordered them and will get them at the end of September.

[QUOTE=garfull;1139390]I also have the 5axis kit and just installed the swift springs. Prior to installing I had a fender to ground measurement of 26.2 Front and 26.6 Rear. Now it's 25 even on all 4 corners so it seems like I got more than the advertised 1.0 drop front and rear. It does look like the rear is lower than the front because I can get just 1 finger in the wheel gap in the rear and almost 1.5 fingers in the front and I'm pretty sure the rear has more gap than the front. Although this could be a side effect of the diffence between my front and rear camber. I looked at side profile pics of others that have swift springs and it does look like the rear gap is smaller than the front. I have a really bad driveway too and I was doglegging it up before with my coilovers but it's not a problem now with the swifts.[/QUOTE

Figo 08-14-2013 08:32 AM

HAH nice. I saw ur thread about ur tc with coilovers, hah. What tire size are u runing? I did not see any picture. I think tire size does matter. I am going to run 225/40r18 and 245/40r18 on 18X8.5 +44 and 18X9.5 +38. And the new front and rear wheel diameter are 0.47'' and 1.0'' larger that stock wheels. I will have to see the height difference after installing my new wheels. I ordered them and will get them at the end of September.

Quote:

Originally Posted by garfull (Post 1139390)
I also have the 5axis kit and just installed the swift springs. Prior to installing I had a fender to ground measurement of 26.2 Front and 26.6 Rear. Now it's 25 even on all 4 corners so it seems like I got more than the advertised 1.0 drop front and rear. It does look like the rear is lower than the front because I can get just 1 finger in the wheel gap in the rear and almost 1.5 fingers in the front and I'm pretty sure the rear has more gap than the front. Although this could be a side effect of the diffence between my front and rear camber. I looked at side profile pics of others that have swift springs and it does look like the rear gap is smaller than the front. I have a really bad driveway too and I was doglegging it up before with my coilovers but it's not a problem now with the swifts.


Figo 08-14-2013 09:20 AM

Hey Andy, if I purchase ur spring, it will come with crash bolt and Rear Camber Adjustment Bushing Kit right? I haven't make my decision. However, if I order other brand springs like swift, what do you recommend me to buy at least? I found these two on ur website:

http://www.racecompengineering.com/i...-kit-16mm.html

http://www.racecompengineering.com/i...-sti-2008.html



Quote:

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering (Post 1138268)
Our RCE yellow springs only lower 20mm front and rear. It's a good look IMO.

They have even rates front and rear...but you won't have understeer because we also include shortened bumpstops. Soft front springs with a drop will be bumpstop active and the bumpstops are pretty firm.

- Andy


console_cowboy 08-14-2013 09:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Figo (Post 1139673)
I just check those Whiteline Strut mount, looks good, and the price is reasonable. Did you just install the spring and the Whiteline Strut mount on stock shock? Will u be able to change the camber by urself at home or u will have to ask someone to do it in the store when doing four wheel alignment?

As far as the whiteline strut mounts, they are doing some improvements to fix a "pop" noise they make occasionally. Mine pop once per a day and have not gotten worse like others report. I have been in contact with Whiteline and they have been very helpful with the issue, they should have an updated set out in a few weeks.

When you install the Whiteline top hats, I would recommend installing them with the springs. They are not "adjustable" camber, they give you a set amount of camber and caster, both of which are good for handling. If you adjust the front or rear camber you will want an alignment. The suspension on our cars changes toe (adds about 3/32 deg toe in for every degree of negative camber, I believe) when camber is changed, so if you change any suspension settings you will want an alignment. I highly recommend finding a shop with a lifetime alignment. You may end up trying multiple settings like I have. You will also want the crash bolts so you can even the camber on the front, as it is highly possible there will be some variation between the two sides. Basically, each time you change your camber settings, you want an alignment. Having your toe off will negatively affect handling and cause very bad premature tire wear.

Figo 08-14-2013 09:54 AM

http://www.racecompengineering.com/i...-kit-16mm.html

http://www.racecompengineering.com/i...-sti-2008.html

These two are coming with RCE springs right? I was thinking whether I can change camber a little by these crash bolts and rear camber adjust kit?

Quote:

Originally Posted by console_cowboy (Post 1139749)
As far as the whiteline strut mounts, they are doing some improvements to fix a "pop" noise they make occasionally. Mine pop once per a day and have not gotten worse like others report. I have been in contact with Whiteline and they have been very helpful with the issue, they should have an updated set out in a few weeks.

When you install the Whiteline top hats, I would recommend installing them with the springs. They are not "adjustable" camber, they give you a set amount of camber and caster, both of which are good for handling. If you adjust the front or rear camber you will want an alignment. The suspension on our cars changes toe (adds about 3/32 deg toe in for every degree of negative camber, I believe) when camber is changed, so if you change any suspension settings you will want an alignment. I highly recommend finding a shop with a lifetime alignment. You may end up trying multiple settings like I have. You will also want the crash bolts so you can even the camber on the front, as it is highly possible there will be some variation between the two sides. Basically, each time you change your camber settings, you want an alignment. Having your toe off will negatively affect handling and cause very bad premature tire wear.


Figo 08-14-2013 09:56 AM

http://www.racecompengineering.com/i...-sti-2008.html

http://www.racecompengineering.com/i...-kit-16mm.html

link is here.lol

Quote:

Originally Posted by console_cowboy (Post 1139749)
As far as the whiteline strut mounts, they are doing some improvements to fix a "pop" noise they make occasionally. Mine pop once per a day and have not gotten worse like others report. I have been in contact with Whiteline and they have been very helpful with the issue, they should have an updated set out in a few weeks.

When you install the Whiteline top hats, I would recommend installing them with the springs. They are not "adjustable" camber, they give you a set amount of camber and caster, both of which are good for handling. If you adjust the front or rear camber you will want an alignment. The suspension on our cars changes toe (adds about 3/32 deg toe in for every degree of negative camber, I believe) when camber is changed, so if you change any suspension settings you will want an alignment. I highly recommend finding a shop with a lifetime alignment. You may end up trying multiple settings like I have. You will also want the crash bolts so you can even the camber on the front, as it is highly possible there will be some variation between the two sides. Basically, each time you change your camber settings, you want an alignment. Having your toe off will negatively affect handling and cause very bad premature tire wear.


console_cowboy 08-14-2013 10:05 AM

No, the RCE kit comes with Subaru OEM crash bolts, not whiteline crash bolts. I personally would not use the whiteline crash bolts (in your case), due to the clamping torque they hold. The OEM crash bolts will get you as much camber as you will be able to run with your wide front tires, so you'd only be losing clamping torque with the whiteline bolts.

Now as far as the whiteline camber correcting kit... I purchased one and didn't use it (still need to ebay it). A lot of people like the kit, but I couldn't find anyone local to me that would do the install for a decent price. The stock bushings in the rear upper control arms are a major pain to remove and pressing in the new bushings takes a good press. You may have better luck with that, but personally I like the rear LCA for adjustment. If I were considering the whiteline camber adjustment bushings, I would print the instructions out and take them to your shop to see if they are willing to do the install. I'd also get the install price ahead of time to avoid sticker shock. Not to mention, the amount of adjustment is less in the bushings.

Figo 08-14-2013 10:10 AM

So do u think a set of lower spring and OEM crash bolt is a good idea? Could u give me a link of those bolts? I will try this first and see whether I need further adjustment.


Quote:

Originally Posted by console_cowboy (Post 1139831)
No, the RCE kit comes with Subaru OEM crash bolts, not whiteline crash bolts. I personally would not use the whiteline crash bolts (in your case), due to the clamping torque they hold. The OEM crash bolts will get you as much camber as you will be able to run with your wide front tires, so you'd only be losing clamping torque with the whiteline bolts.

Now as far as the whiteline camber correcting kit... I purchased one and didn't use it (still need to ebay it). A lot of people like the kit, but I couldn't find anyone local to me that would do the install for a decent price. The stock bushings in the rear upper control arms are a major pain to remove and pressing in the new bushings takes a good press. You may have better luck with that, but personally I like the rear LCA for adjustment. If I were considering the whiteline camber adjustment bushings, I would print the instructions out and take them to your shop to see if they are willing to do the install. I'd also get the install price ahead of time to avoid sticker shock. Not to mention, the amount of adjustment is less in the bushings.


console_cowboy 08-14-2013 10:15 AM

Well if you're going to go with the UCA adjustment bushings, the best deal going is this:
http://www.racecompengineering.com/i.../brz-lite.html

This is RCE's kit with the OEM crash bolts, RCE Yellow Springs, and UCA adjustment bushings. It is basically everything you need in one kit. If you need more clearance or camber up front, you can add some com-c top hats or adjustable plates. I have not used the whiteline bushings though, the install was just too much of a pain. Perhaps others can comment.

Racecomp Engineering 08-14-2013 11:51 AM

Right, our springs just come with bumpstops, but we have packages with crash bolts and/or the rear camber bushing (like above).

- Andy

garfull 08-14-2013 08:27 PM

Hah yeah. I didn't get approved to repave my driveway so coilovers had to go.

I'm running 17x9et45 245/40/17 rpf1s and 19x8.5et45 215/35/19 5axis s7.

[quote=Figo;1139680]HAH nice. I saw ur thread about ur tc with coilovers, hah. What tire size are u runing? I did not see any picture. I think tire size does matter. I am going to run 225/40r18 and 245/40r18 on 18X8.5 +44 and 18X9.5 +38. And the new front and rear wheel diameter are 0.47'' and 1.0'' larger that stock wheels. I will have to see the height difference after installing my new wheels. I ordered them and will get them at the end of September.

Quote:

Originally Posted by garfull (Post 1139390)
I also have the 5axis kit and just installed the swift springs. Prior to installing I had a fender to ground measurement of 26.2 Front and 26.6 Rear. Now it's 25 even on all 4 corners so it seems like I got more than the advertised 1.0 drop front and rear. It does look like the rear is lower than the front because I can get just 1 finger in the wheel gap in the rear and almost 1.5 fingers in the front and I'm pretty sure the rear has more gap than the front. Although this could be a side effect of the diffence between my front and rear camber. I looked at side profile pics of others that have swift springs and it does look like the rear gap is smaller than the front. I have a really bad driveway too and I was doglegging it up before with my coilovers but it's not a problem now with the swifts.[/QUOTE


Figo 08-14-2013 09:52 PM

Thats cool。Those 17‘ wheels are kinda smaller than stock,19’ are much larger.hah

[quote=garfull;1141424]Hah yeah. I didn't get approved to repave my driveway so coilovers had to go.

I'm running 17x9et45 245/40/17 rpf1s and 19x8.5et45 215/35/19 5axis s7.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Figo (Post 1139680)
HAH nice. I saw ur thread about ur tc with coilovers, hah. What tire size are u runing? I did not see any picture. I think tire size does matter. I am going to run 225/40r18 and 245/40r18 on 18X8.5 +44 and 18X9.5 +38. And the new front and rear wheel diameter are 0.47'' and 1.0'' larger that stock wheels. I will have to see the height difference after installing my new wheels. I ordered them and will get them at the end of September.



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