Oil consumption? Please chime in
 

I'm hoping that this is an "engine is still new" thing because the lack of references to oil consumption in this section of the forum has me a little concerned (I found only this one). I just completed a ~300 mile trip, almost exclusively consisting of highway driving, and had to add 250ml (.25 quarts) of oil to bring the measurement back up to top dot. I checked my oil before departing, so I know it where it was before hand (top dot), and, additionally, the oil was changed 4 days ago.

Was:
<-- top of dipstick ==0|===========0== bottom -->

300 miles later:
<-- top of dipstick ==0====|=======0== bottom -->

Details:

• 5,380 miles
• 0W-20
• Broken in, religiously, according to manual
• First oil change at 5,000 miles/7.5-8 months
• No modifications
• within a few hundred RPM--but never over--redline on occasion

http://assets.diylol.com/hfs/83a/fb0...1303883484.jpg

Mine consumed a good amount on the factory fill. I changed it at 4k with Eneos 0w-20 and my consumption seems to have gone down.

I attribute the consumption to my soft never go above 4k break in. Should've just had fun with it instead of babying it the first 1k. :iono:

I was told by the head mechanic at the dealer that you have to wait up to four hours for all the old in the engine to return to the pan. "Due to the complexity of this new engine"

Verbatim. Whether or not he's full of shit or not is yet to be determined. But this is the first of 4 Subaru's I've had that doesn't consume oil.

It seems like a long time, given the watery nature of this oil and especially since the oil I added registered on the dipstick in the amount of time it took me to put the bottle down and check. Also, I first checked after the long trip the next morning after the car was parked over night (on a slight incline--I checked again and added on a flat surface.) With that said, I'll check this morning before heading out on another ~ 2 hr trip and update my post when I've arrived at my destination.

Is your car MT or AT? Also, it may be worth while to try a more moderate style break in(or continuation of one) like described on this forum. This may help seat the rings a little more thus helping to increase cylinder pressure and reduce consumption. IMO the "by manual way" is way to conservative, but I understand why they did it( brakes, clutch, and assembly lubes need to be either bedded or burned off) before hard driving occurs.

I just completed a 560 mile trip and my oil levels are still normal and this is checking after letting the car sit for a day and half. I am on vacation not driving haha. But in all honesty still good levels of oil.

Edit, sitting at 6800 miles ish, first change at 1k, next at 4k, then one after I return home tomorrow 560 miles later.

This is my first car that doesn't burn / leak oil. over 12 000 KM on it.

I find this engine's dipstick quite shitty to read...make sure you read your oil with the car parked at the same place everytime. I also find it quite easier to remove the dip stick for about 10-15 min. so the oil drain down the tube and then check the oil. Much more accurate.

I'm at 11,500 miles now. Did first oil change at 5,000 miles. I know...but after 40 years of car ownership I finally got away from all the "got to change the oil after 1,000 miles" mantra.

Anyway at 5,000 miles oil level was right at the full mark. Did the second change at 10,000 miles (5,000 on the oil, 0W-20 Amsoil SS) and still at full mark.

Running Eneos 0W-20 Sustina now. My break-in was simple, just stayed below 5,000 the first 500 miles but used the engine fully. Then stayed below 6,000 from 500-1000 miles.

I run the car hard after its fully warmed up. Heck all my cars over the past 40 years have been great on oil consumption.

Even my wife's 2002 PT Cruiser with 130,000 miles uses 1/3 quart in 10,000 miles (OCI on that car).

Yes this too. Read the side with the lowest mark.

What is a step up break in?

Happened to me. Did an oil change and filled the car, ran it, and then topped off to full.

After sitting overnight, I registered a good 8-9mm above the max fill line(where I filled to).

Seems like the oil needs time to drain back after a shutoff. i waited about 5 minutes too when I checked after the oil change.... seems to take longer to get all the oil back into the pan.

This is what my Catch Can "catched" after 2.5K turbo miles

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-x...0/IMAG1045.jpg

If you spend a lot of time idling/low rpm you're gonna burn a lot more oil through the PCV system. 0w-20 slings around pretty good at temp and gets sucked out when in constant vacuum.

I've autocrossed the car and change the oil about every 6k miles or so, and I get zero oil consumption. Way better than my stupid '08 Accord V6. That thing drinks oil.

My car uses exactly 1 qt every 12,400 miles.
 

I have been carefully tracking my oil consumption on my 2017 86 Automatic by observing how many quarts of Mobil-1 I have gone through topping up over the last 2.5 years and 27K mi. My car uses exactly 1 qt every 12,400 miles.

As an aside: coolant consumption is 3.7oz every 7,500mi service interval.

I was super careful during the break-in period to watch RPM's and vary constantly, and a few strong pulls (torque'y, but not high RPM) to "seat the rings" if that really does happen. The car gets serviced per book at the dealer as it's new.

I drive it only for fun on a 90 mile route mostly on hiway-1 (Calif coast) to my fav hill climb from San Gregorio to Woodside CA. I do the 10 miles in the hills at 4,500-7K RPM quite hard, very fun. The oil temp gets to about 234 deg at it's peak when I reach the peak of the mountain. The water hits 212 at most (ambient air temperature of about 85).

Scenic driving flat along the coast the oil is 196 deg and water is 190.

I also blend my stupid 91 Calif gas in Woodside with 100 oct race gas (the 76 sells it there!) to get 93 oct and watch the ignition timing to confirm it advances properly to get the most power. I use BlueDriver to monitor.

Another aside... Starting in 2017 forward, Subaru stupidly programmed the car to let the battery discharge during acceleration and stops, doing most of the charging while decelerating only. I discovered this when I parked to listen to the radio for an hour and the car would barely crank. They said it's for "economy" B.S.! This will ruin batteries faster. You can force the car to "normal charge" at 14.2V by turning on the running lights (I drive with them all the time now). Also, if you turn the fan on it will hold at 13.3V. But drive normally and watch the voltage drop from an initial 14.4 at start to around 12.1 in just a few minutes. More on this later as I'm working up a big expose.

I'm an Engineer, I like to measure things.

Are you going to resurrect every 5 year old thread to say this?

His last sentence explained a lot - ;)


humfrz

Multiple threads apparently. All 8 posts are the exact same thing on different threads.

ROGER-86, the underdog amateur engineer vs the welterweight Toyota/Subaru engineers




place your bets everyone!!

Didn't @Tcoat just post about it being national stupid question day?

This dude thinks it is National Stupid Answer for a Question Nobody Asked day!
My bet's are on second year engineering student that know a whole pile about nothing but will save the world with that knowledge. I have seen hundreds of them.

now that I think about it, how can we really trust a guy proclaiming himself to be an engineer all about measuring things on his own but he has to rely on a computer to shift his gears? psh, wannabe car nerd

Not to mention topping up their oil at 12,400 miles when the service interval is 7,500 miles.

Nobody gonna mention that coolant consumption? I'll have my popcorn ready for his blown head gastket thread.

At 3.7 oz? Not even enough to mention. Loose that the evaporation in the overflow in that many miles.

Coolant consumption put me in the hospital

I'm triggered.

How about a discussion on header design

Oh, we best hesh up, or he will not share his up coming exposé - :(

"More on this later as I'm working up a big expose."


humfrz

OOPS

https://www.ft86club.com/forums/show...=119376&page=2

You sure he wasn’t just saying he has been measuring over the past 12400 he’s owned the car? He didn’t necessary say he changes it at 12400. Seems you guys are being a bit harsh on this guy.

Maybe so, maybe so, - :slap: us.

:iono:


humfrz

Ever since I bought an external oil cooler I haven't had a loss in oil level inbetween oil changes. For the 100,000 miles before the cooler, I would top it off every 3k miles. When I'd check it after 3k miles it would be at 40% whereas "full" is 50%. If you are running those oil temperatures, on a windy road, I'd personally be at 60%.

I lose a couple ounces of coolant due to evaporation every month or so. I think coolant is water based. I wrapped the coolant reservoir hose in electrical tape to make it air tight but I was told that was a bad idea so I took it off. That seemed to help somewhat with evaporation but who knows.

It seems you are running the car really hard so you should have an oil cooler by now. I think 220F is a target for most people when it comes to efficiently beating the shit your engine like it seems you are. Could be burning oil but I'm not 100% sure how that happens relative to oil temperature.

Car hasn't burned a drop that I can tell since I bought it. On my way to 48k miles, just a bit over 3k miles on the current oil (about 1.5 months old), and the level is still where it was when I did the oil change. :iono:

I just change the oil every 500 miles. There's a rest stop up the way, so i just take what i need from the overnight parked trucks.

And peeing in the coolant tank has completely stopped any antifreeze usage

OK, smarty, what IS the boiling point of pee?

:iono:

With THAT dipstick, how could you tell?

:iono:

:lol:


humfrz