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First week off to a bad start, and a bunch on non-starts
My issues started right when I got my 2013 BRZ Limited home. I hopped back in the car shortly after getting home, and it didn't start up properly on the first attempt. It fired up, but stalled immediately. Over the past few days (currently at 73 hours of ownership and 150 miles driven) it has failed to start once or twice. I was going to wait until this weekend and take it back to the dealership, but this afternoon while picking up some equipment at work it took 4 attempts to get it to stay running and then it threw a CEL. It drove fine, so I went back to my office and then home. I went to take it out to dinner, but my girlfriend and I both noticed a ticking sound coming from the engine bay. It was also taking successively more attempts to start the car.
That's when I made the decision to tow my brand new fricken car back to the dealership! This is definitely NOT the way I wanted to start my ownership of this gorgeous vehicle. |
^......that's too darn bad.....:(
Let's hope it is something easily tweaked and you can get on enjoying your new car ... http://www.runemasterstudios.com/gra...ages/smile.gif Please let us know what was wrong with your car. humfrz |
ECU update should set you straight. Or at least I think that's what the fix was for the stalling issue.
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TSB# 11-130-13R will take care of this.
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sorry to hear about that - keep us updated.
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Thanks guys! I'm keeping my fingers crossed that it is a quick fix. I do still have my WRX though, so I'm not stranded or without a fun car.
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"Difficulty Starting, Rough Idle, Cam Position or Misfire DTCs" Sure sounds like your issue and hopefully a quick fix. Suck you had to deal with this on a new car, what is your build date? |
Awesome, thanks for that info. I'm assuming I can look up the build date from the VIN?
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Looks like this TSB was issued in June, so it most likely came out after your car was built. |
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Called the dealership after lunch, a few hours after they were supposed to call me with an update. "Yes, we do have your car here... Oh, you wanted a status report?"
They called me back after a bit and said there was no CEL, but shouldn't the code still be in the ECU? They also said that I probably wasn't holding the start button down long enough, which didn't explain why it would actually turn over and THEN stall. It also didn't explain the ticking noise that started yesterday. Basically, I think all they heard this morning is "Check engine light" and then stopped listening. |
Lemon law that thing! That is ridiculous if the dealer doesn't find the code, pure laziness
-Nick C. |
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The ticking may be the "crickets" that everybody has to varying degrees.
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I doubt anyone would describe "cricket" noise as "ticking" noise.
My guess is this noise, which is normal. P.S. Thanks to Opie for the TSB. I added it to the TSB thread. :) |
You do NOT have to hold down the start button for the starter to completely crank the engine over. Just a single tap will start the car.
If the dealership is telling you to hold down the start button, they need to learn how the start button works. |
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I.e. You're cruising at 2500 RPM. Put it in neutral to slow down. RPM goes to 600. A few seconds later, rattle rattle rattle! |
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If the TSB also covers cam position, it makes complete sense that you may hear a ticking sound. You've got a cam position sensor not positioned right that certainly could cause timing issues and generate a tick.
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And as everyone said, you don't hold the start button.....just put your foot on the brake, push and let go of the start button, and watch it start. (keep foot on the brake this entire time and don't try to put it in gear before it starts or it will stall) |
They said they didn't see anything wrong in regards to the stated issues. The ticking sound does seem to have gone away, but I'll have to figure out how I can 100% reproduce the stalling issue. I was able to reproduce the stalling issue again tonight, but it was after the service department closed. It is annoying, but I'll also be video capturing every start up for the next few days.
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What dealership is this?
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I called back today saying that it happens now more than half the time I start the car, and I have 4 videos (in 48 hours) of it not starting proving that I'm not just "not holding the button down for long enough" as they told me. I now have an appointment for Wednesday. |
can you post the videos?
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[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w7couL6JfIw"]Brand new Subaru BRZ wont start (1 of 4) - YouTube[/ame] [ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hk06A1L-69s"]Brand new Subaru BRZ wont start (2 of 4) - YouTube[/ame] [ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ncrK6poH7oI"]Brand new Subaru BRZ wont start (3 of 4) - YouTube[/ame] [ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QbEt8jVodek"]Brand new Subaru BRZ wont start (4 of 4) - YouTube[/ame] |
Could it be the gas that the dealer put in? Would be interesting to see if it clears up with the next tank of gas. If not, not normal. I have had 2-3 times since owning the car that it may take a little longer to turn over, but never had a stall like yours.
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We'll see. I just filled up today, maybe I'll go for a long drive before dinner. That thought was in the back of my mind
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You do not need to hold the button that long, dealer idiots, but yes there is a clear problem here. I would think Gas as well. If that is not it, show them these videos too.
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After stalling a few times just this evening it threw a P0451 code. I know the gas cap is on secure.
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i just asked my friend who used to work at a subaru dealer if their scan tool had the ability to tell the tech if a code was current or stored so even if the code has gone away the dealer should be able to tell you what the code was.
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Possible causes
- Faulty Evaporative Emission System (EVAP) Pressure Sensor - Evaporative Emission System (EVAP) Pressure sensor harness is open or shorted - Evaporative Emission System (EVAP) Pressure sensor circuit poor electrical connection - Faulty Engine Control Module (ECM) Let us know what happens when you go back to the dealer |
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It looks like it's an immobilizer / security issue and you probably need a new ECM.
Have you tried using the other RF key they gave you? Make sure you only have 1 key in the car at a time (duh, but figured I'd put it out there). |
It looks like it's an immobilizer / security issue and you probably need a new ECM.
Have you tried using the other RF key they gave you? |
Going to bet immobilzer/ECU problem - I have a limited manual as well, although sometimes (happens a lot if I have a laptop in my lap with the fob in my left pocket, usually when getting ready to datalog) the car will simply fail to try and turn over - seems yours at least gets that far. Might try moving the fob closer to the button on start up, see if that gets it to turn over correctly every time.... perhaps just a bad battery in the fob? Good luck, sucks you have to deal with this.
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But in those cases, the car just doesn't respond, not try to start and shut down... |
Of course when I dropped the car off at the dealership today it acted just fine, event though it did it 3 out of 5 times I started the car today! :mad0259:
I showed the guy one of the videos and then he was a bit more understanding and optimistic. We'll see what happens now... |
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