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Wider wheels: need an alignment?
Car is being dropped on eibach sport line springs very soon. I know I need an alignment after the drop but this is my question:
I'm upgrading to a set of 17x9 +44 wheels. Tires will be stock. I want to know if I shoul hold off on the spring and alignment until I get the new rims on or will a wider wheel not effect the alignment/handling of the car? Any advice is appreciated. Not in a hurry to do the springs if it will benifit to wait |
You're putting 215s on 17x9s? That's probably going to affect your handling more than not having an alignment right away.
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we recommend any drop or even wheel and tire change to have alignment done. Remember that you are altering the suspension geometry with any of those changes.
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How exactly are you altering the suspension geometry (specifically the parts affected by an alignment) by changing wheels or tires?
The ONLY thing that can change with a wheel change is the offset, but that's not something you can change with an alignment so it's irrelevant. |
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Out of curiosity, what alignment specs would you set my car to running 225/45/17's on 17x8 +45, and why would you deviate from the factory alignment? I fully realize that the factory alignment specs aren't the fastest specs around a track, but that doesn't mean you need to adjust based on wheel offset. If you're that concerned about on track performance you need to factor in a lot more data than just width and offset, actual logged data like tire temps across the width of the tire, pressure, etc all come into play. None of that matters for the average street driver though. The only other time I can see this mattering is if you're setting camber for fender clearance, then you would need the final wheels to get the clearance right. To answer the OP's question, just get the alignment after the suspension install, changing wheels won't change the alignment at all. A good number of alignment racks require removing the wheels anyway. |
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Its like hub rings, there are people out there who says its not needed... but from a manufacturers side, we recommend them because it is just one less factor to contend with in case there are shaking or vibrations on the car... that being said, as a wheel manufacturer, we always would recommend alignment after wheels and tires are put on to protect the consumer. |
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Better yet, how are you validating the "handling differences" between wheels? The alignment specs are numbers that are going to be identical whether you're on stock wheels or these. So, what, you're going to put a new set of wheels on a car, put it on the rack, verify that the tie rods haven't been touched, pocket $90 and call it a day? |
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So what I'm gathering is that the wheels may affect my handling characteristics but not due to alignment. I think I'll get it aligned w the stock wheels then just put my new ones on. Once I wear through the tires I'll get another alignment as I'll be putting wider rubber on. (215 on a 9" rim is about as stretched as I'd ever want, definitely not about the stance scene.) I appreciate the insight and would like to continue learning more. So any other voices are more than welcome
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Don't the 17x9's hit the tie rods at full lock?
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As to others thinking its ok not to align the vehicle after changing even just tires, thats their choice. In our experience, we have fitted on slightly wider tires and slightly bigger tires on stock suspension set up without alignment to compensate after. The results were uneven wear on the tires. |
As to those implying there is ANY different to your alignment after changing wheels or tires.. I don't even know what to say. There isn't. Period. To suggest it's even possible is crazy. Do you readjust your belt when you put on a different pair of shoes?
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Unless you're coming up with different alignment specs based on wheel width/offset and tire width there is simply no need for such frequent alignments. Yes alignments will drift, and after a 3-4 years it's probably smart to have it re-aligned, but the reason is age and km's driven not the fact that new tires/wheels will fit different. By your logic I should be getting two alignments per year, every time I swap between summer and winter wheels. When I get more competitive with track events I'll definitely get it aligned at the start of every race season, but for the average street driven car that is simply overkill. |
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Your not gunna fit in the front with 17x9+44 on stock spring size. Even +42 with a 5mm spacer was mad close.
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I switched from the stock wheels and tires to 18x9.5 +38 all around with 255/40 front and 265/40 rear.....my alignments still spot on, and handles like a god dang f1 car(exageration).
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I'm going to put my car on a rack, see that adjustable toe is within factory specs, along with caster and camber. Then I'm going to put new wheels and tires on and put it on the rack again. All the numbers are identical! EVERY TIME! If anyone without something to sell suggests an alignment when you get new tires, it's because they're talking to my mom who gets new tires every 50k miles and is due for an alignment anyway. |
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unless that's what you had, I dunno. |
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NCE about his herraflush tire size choice...Im taking offset and wheel clearance in reguards to stock front spring size. |
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As to recommendations, one of the easier source to help most people find out other than asking alignment shops can find some useful information through tire rack... here is their take( no affliation) Hope the information is helpful to others: http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tirete...e.jsp?techid=4 While it's often referred to simply as an "alignment" or "wheel alignment," it's really complex suspension angles that are being measured and a variety of suspension components that are being adjusted. This makes an alignment an important suspension-tuning tool that greatly influences the operation of the vehicle's tires. Out-of-alignment conditions occur when the suspension and steering systems are not operating at their desired angles. Out-of-alignment conditions are most often caused by spring sag or suspension wear (ball joints, bushings, etc.) on an older vehicle. They can also be the result of an impact with a pothole or curb, or a change in vehicle ride height (lowered or raised) on any vehicle regardless of age. Incorrect alignment settings will usually result in more rapid tire wear. Therefore, alignment should be checked whenever new tires or suspension components are installed, and any time unusual tire wear patterns appear. Alignment should also be checked after the vehicle has encountered a major road hazard or curb. Alignment Ranges The vehicle manufacturers' alignment specifications usually identify a "preferred" angle for camber, caster and toe (with preferred thrust angle always being zero). The manufacturers also provide the acceptable "minimum" and "maximum" angles for each specification. The minimum and maximum camber and caster specifications typically result in a range that remains within plus or minus 1-degree of the preferred angle. If for whatever reason your vehicle can't reach within the acceptable range, replacing bent parts or an aftermarket alignment kit will be required. Fortunately there is a kit for almost every popular vehicle due to the needs of body and frame shops doing crash repairs and driving enthusiasts tuning the suspensions on their cars. Recommendations An accurate wheel alignment is critical to balance the treadwear and performance a vehicle's tires deliver. Regular wheel alignments will usually save you as much in tire wear as they cost, and should be considered routine, preventative maintenance. Since there are "acceptable" ranges provided in the manufacturer's recommendations, the technician should be encouraged to align the vehicle to the preferred settings and not just within the range. If you are a reserved driver, aligning your vehicle to the vehicle manufacturer's preferred settings is appropriate. If you are an assertive driver who enjoys driving hard through the corners and expressway ramps, a performance alignment is appropriate for your car. A performance alignment consists of using the vehicle manufacturer's range of alignment specifications to maximize the tires' performance. A performance alignment calls for the manufacturer's maximum negative camber, maximum positive caster, and preferred toe settings. While remaining within the vehicle manufacturer's recommendations, these alignment settings will maximize tire performance. If you are a competition driver who frequently runs autocross, track or road race events, you'll typically want the maximum negative camber, maximum positive caster and most aggressive toe settings available from the car and permitted by the competition rules. If the rules permit, aftermarket camber plates and caster adjustments are good investments. Many of today's alignment machines are equipped with printouts that compare the "before" and "after" alignment angles with the manufacturers' specifications. Requesting a post alignment printout can help you confirm the thoroughness of the alignment technician and preserve a record of your vehicle's intended settings in the case of an encounter with a suspension damaging road hazard. |
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Please, tell me. How does an alignment go out of whack, when there is zero adjustability in the alignment from the factory, except for rear toe. You've yet to address my previous post as well. Nice plagiarism from TireRack by the way. http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tirete...e.jsp?techid=4 |
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It just doesn't make sense. You aren't defining the timing that would make alignments necessary at all. Every pothole could knock it out of alignment you say. So, instead of every time we get new wheels, should we go back for an alignment every day? What if we don't ever buy new wheels, do we never align the car? Cars don't often get "knocked" out of alignment. Camber bolts are very unlikely to slip (plus we don't even have them), toe couldn't possibly slip and we don't have adjustable caster. A bad alignment is almost always the result of an accident or just general fatigue (stretching, deflection, whateve) in the parts over a long period of time. Educate yourselves, people. If it's been a while, if you've had the struts off for some reason and might not have put them back exactly the same, if you've lowered your car or if you want better performance (and understand what alignment specs you want), have your car aligned. But don't get talked in to spending the time and money for the wrong reasons. |
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You guys do realize that if you have any experience in the automotive technology field, the safety protocols they teach is that an alignment is not required of course but highly recommended after tire change. Understandable why people think that a simple wheel change wont do anything to the suspension geometry because you're not touching the "suspension parts".
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As a couple people (myself included) have already stated, if you haven't had alignment in years or 50k miles (80k km's), then you're due for one, but just the action of changing wheels/tires does not automatically mean you need an alignment. Further to that, with almost no adjustment from the factory, what exactly is an alignment going to do on these cars? The only thing that can be adjusted without buying aftermarket parts is front and rear toe. Quote:
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