P0102, P0113, P2096 Engine code
 

The engine light came on recently and these are the 3 codes showing. I have a perrin Catback exhaust and Rev Works header on my car right now. The exhaust was put on 2 weeks before the header, no engine light.

I got the header installed, and the light was showing. Yes I had the 02 spacer added with it. The guys at the garage said it's possible the ecu may have to learn it and it may go away. Few hours later it did. 4 or 5 days later the light came back on, so I got it scanned and those were the codes.

I spoke to Matt from revworks, he said the p2096 code is from the header and it's possible it could be the spacer. I havent had a chance to bring the car back down to where I get it done because I work 14 days on and 7 off, just finished today.

The other 2 codes I don't really understand. They were going to instal the perrin cold air intake, they had the front bumper off, but the last 2 clips somewhere on the bumper they didn't take off until they called me because of the placement of them and they said it seemed like they were on a odd place and thought maybe there is some kind of trick too it, they didn't have time to go about it that day. So i told them to put the bumper back on and next time I bring it in to give Perrin a call see if their is a easy solution too it. So nothing on the intake was touched. But the first 2 codes seem to give a description of air flow and stuff so I have no idea whats going on.

Any imput or suggestions please let me know. Sorry for being so descriptive I just wanted to explain everything that went on so no details are left out and perhaps can help to narrow down the possibilities, thanks.

I just had the p2096 code as well. Check for an exhaust leak at the header to overpipe flange. Turns out my rev works header isn't properly fabricated to fit the stock over pipe flush, thus causing a massive exhaust leak. I had to replace the gasket and coat the top of the header to overpipe flanges in quiksteel high temperature exhaust repair. I just did this repair yesterday and so far it's holding up. I also reset the ecu and drove the car around a bunch and haven't gotten the code yet. Hope this helps

You need a tune. The ECU can't adjust on its own to the increased flow.

I just had the p2096 code as well. Check for an exhaust leak at the header to overpipe flange. Turns out my rev works header isn't properly fabricated to fit the stock over pipe flush, thus causing a massive exhaust leak. I had to replace the gasket and coat the top of the header to overpipe flanges in quiksteel high temperature exhaust repair. I just did this repair yesterday and so far it's holding up. I also reset the ecu and drove the car around a bunch and haven't gotten the code yet. Hope this helps

By the way you said you work 14-7? Sounds like you work in the oilfield like me, except we are 21-7.

So was the flange warped on the header you received or are you saying that all Rev Works headers fabbed deliberately in such a way that causes massive leaks when mated to the stock overpipe?

If it was a warped flange then why aren't you using your 1 year warranty on the header and getting a new one?

Yeah I'm a pipe fitter I'm working in a new nickel processing plant, a lot of the mods that were sent down were built in Texas actually lol

So Matt until I get the tune is it safe to drive the car the way it is because I won't be able to get a tune until prob next month or so, or is it just having to deal with the engine light being on

It just won't be running optimal. Might burn more gas and you'll lose MPG, but you can drive it. I just suggest not driving it for a very long period of time. I would be anal about those codes. You could swap the stock header back on in the meantime till you can grab a tune.

I'm not worried about the gas I don't drive enough for that because of work and I can't go back to the old header, I'm too addicted to the boxer sound now just love the roar of it at 4k Rpms and above

The flange is completely flat. It looks to me like the entire collector/flange area needs to be bent down maybe an eighth of an inch. I unbolted the header to overpipe flange and the overpipe to front pipe flange (perrin high flow catted front pipe), then completely took the front pipe off. I pulled the overpipe up and over a little to make it seat perfectly flush with the header and that threw the rest of the exhaust off. I'm not going the warranty route because its not worth the hassle of me having to wait a month for a new header. Quiksteel fixed it....it may not be pretty, but so far it's good. Plus it's heat resistant to 2400 degrees F. If it starts leaking again ill just patch it again.

Long story short, the engine doesn't know the optimal amount of fuel to use because the sensor reading is off so it defaults to a regular set value in the ECU and goes with it, hence why it runs inefficiently and could damage the engine over time.

God damn no one told me any of this when I was asking questions about parts lol, people said it would be fine to go with a header and catback exhaust before getting a tune. Now my engine apparently might blow over time if I don't get a tune :/

This is incorrect. The primary O2 sensor is pre-cat and is the only one that effects fueling. Running a catless header on the stock ECU tune is a non-issue and will not throw a code if you use a long enough secondary O2
sensor spacer or mini-cat. The secondary O2 sensor is for detecting cat readiness and does not effect fueling.

Sure you are leaving power on the table with a header and stock tune but to say it's damaging the engine over time is not accurate.




See above

No, it won't.

Ok perfect. So what should I do right now with these codes? They were reset when ingot the codes scanned, light was off for a few days then came back on.

www.bigdaddiesgarage.com

^Get either the L-shaped spacer or the mini-cat and triple check everything for leaks.

P0102 is maf sensor low voltage
P0113 is IAT high voltage

I'm guessing the maf was not properly plugged in when they were messing with the intake, they could have keyed it on with the maf unplugged or something.

P2096 is post catalyst Fuel Trim Too Lean (secondary sensor too lean code)

I assume your spacer is too long or the opening is too small so the secondary sensor is not getting enough of the exhaust flow to read happy or you have an exhaust leak near the secondary sensor as mentioned above.

If you don't think running the engine lean over a long period of time won't damage the engine, be my guest. Continue to run on no tune with a catless header throwing the code for the primary sensor. Check the AFR on a dyno with that code and you will see.

It's not going to blow the engine in a few months. This is something that will slowly cause problems over the years running lean because the ECU doesn't know how to adjust to it properly. This isn't new. This happens on several cars and has for years.

This code is based on the secondary sensor, not the primary sensor, so an actual lean condition is probably not happening.

HOWEVER, the op would be well served to log is fuel trims and afr especially under WOT just to make sure it is safe to drive. Because, as you mentioned, continuing to drive if there is a true lean condition is a bad idea. Driving a car hard when you have no idea how it is actually running is a very bad idea.

I was given this warning by a tuner in Dallas when my Camaro was being done because the O2's were deleted then the secondary were switched to primaries with extensions. When the stock ones burned out, they threw codes and caused my car to run unbalanced because of it. The ECU would just run with a set value and I'd start using tons of fuel just on a regular drive. I could even smell it idling in some places.

Once it was tuned though, all was perfect. I plan on doing the same with the FR-S, except I'll do the tune at the same time I put the header on just to avoid it all from the start.

if that was an IAT circuit low input i would say that your maf sensor is unplugged. However I would still verify it is plugged in, and plugged in CORRECTLY (not somehow mangled and upside down forced in place). The IAT & MAF sensor are built into one unit on our cars. It should be on your intake tube. Having an issue with the MAF sensor could be very bad. As the MAF sensor is used to detect how much air is going into the engine, allowing the ECU to calculate how much fuel to inject. Once your car is running open loop and not basing its injection off the o2 sensor it needs a MAF sensor reading to run safe & proper.

Well today the damn engine light turned off so I don't have a clue what is going on

that is why you need a logger of some sort so you can see what is going on. Tech Stream, Torque, BRZedit slave version etc etc. It will most likely come back in a day or two, it probably reset so the ecu could re test again.

Have you had any more issues yet after your tune?