Anybody try the price caculator?
 

Before you guys went into the dealership to buy your FR-S, did any of you use the payment calculator?

How accurate or close was it to what you wanted and what you ended up actually getting when you bought your car?

The reason I'm asking is because I went in to buy a 6MT Ultramarine they had in stock, and according to the dealer, there was no mark up on the price. I told him the options I wanted (TRD Exhaust, TRD Intake, Spoiler, Upgraded head unit) and he came back with $277 bi weekly if I financed for 60 months, or $432 if I leased for 60 months, with a $11,500 buy out at the end of the lease term if I wanted to keep it.

This seems odd to me because before I went into the dealership, I "built my FR-S" on the website with those same things and the lease price comes out to about $360 for 60 months. Even if I add every single option available on the website, the maximum amount for the lease for 60 months comes out to $375 (nowhere near the $432 he quoted with only 4 options included), and financing came out to $249 for 60 months on the website. The total amount for the car is $30,060 (with EVERYTHING included).
The total amount at the dealership with only the 4 things I asked for was $31,720.

Where is the sales rep getting that huge price bump from? Is the calculator supposed to be that far off? Any advice will be helpful. I'm planning on getting this car within a week or so.

Tell the dealer you want a detailed quote with a breakdown of all the costs. Also, does the dealer quote include taxes/fees? And what finance rate?

Interest rate differences would probably be the big one.

Learn more about financing before you go back in, otherwise there's a good chance you're going to get taken for a ride.

Interest rates were the exact same on the website as the ones he said he was giving me on the quote he gave me. Dealership will be closed tomorrow and Monday, so I'll go back in on Tuesday to have a chat with him.

Did they try to add in an extra warranty?

They tried to sneak in a bunch of extra shit on me like chip protection and extended warranty etc...I called them out on the price difference between the website and dealership and got them down from $202 a month to $173. Very glad I spoke up, they tried to pull a fast one


And that was with 6k down, 3 year 'lease' with 15k miles a year..buy out was like $16.5k. All of this is inclusive of fees and taxes as well...I'm leasing to buy because I don't graduate law school for a few years and would rather have less of a monthly commitment until my job pays more than the 24k a year I currently make

The dealer here actually used the website's calculator to show me the prices. So yes it was accurate...minus the dealer fees which are between 1000-2000$, I don't rememeber.

That seems really high. I'm financing for 60 months, didn't put down a particularly large down payment, didn't get a particularly great interest rate, and I'm pretty near to your 60 month lease price, so that seems exorbitant. I don't know what you're putting down or if you're trading in something, but $432/month for 60 months is $25,920, so to pay that much and still need to buy it out for $11.5k seems absolutely insane.

Are you sure you're not getting mixed up with leasing and financing? I really don't see how financing is $249/mo for 60 months on their website. That adds up to $14,940, so unless you're putting >$10K down payment, there's no way you're financing at $249/mo for 60 months, even if that is at 0% APR. It sounds to me like either the website is wrong, or you're mixed up between leasing and financing (Financing = buying the car, pay back the loan monthly, no mileage limit, you own it outright at the end of the term, leasing = essentially a long term rental, may have mileage limits, at the end of the term you need to return the car or buy it out for a depreciated value). If you're leasing one of the twins for $430/mo for 60mo, you're getting bent over and rammed, and if you're financing one of the twins for $250/mo for 60mo, you must have walked into the dealership with a ski mask and a gun, because you just stole that car. Leasing should be in the $250 range, financing should be in the $400 range, all depending on down payment and options.

If you lease for 60 months paying $432, you're an idiot. I'm sorry if that sounds rude, but after 60 months you would have paid just over $25K (which is the price of the car). Then you have another $11K buyout. HA! They would give you business all day long.

You might as well bring you favorite dildo along.

yeah least for 60 month and pay that much.. why not just buy the car:bonk:

welcome to the dealership.. i mean stealership:bs: they will try to sell you everything.. them led strip lights cost about 500$ extra:eyebulge:.. glad i got mine before they mounted wings and other crap add ons

Even without mixing up financing with leasing, looks like the OP willl get ripped anyways because he's focusing on monthly costs instead of total price paid for the car, which is always a no-no regardless of financing or leasing.

Oh and LOLZ@bi-weekly payment of $277.

Sales tax, registration and interest rate based off strength of credit are not factored into the "build your Scion" page.

Sorry, the financing price was bi-weekly. Should have mentioned that.
None of that was considered at the dealership yet either. I told him what I wanted and he came back with $432/month for lease and $277 bi-weekly for financing. I said no and he left and came back a few minutes later with $420/month for lease and $250 bi-weekly for financing and said that was the best he could do. Credit and all those things weren't factored in yet.

if you haven't checked it out already , i would advise you to go through a credit union. they often give out the best interest rate to thier members and best of all, no haggling with the dealership. if you get approved, the CU will issue you a check and you just hand it to the dealership and sign papers and you're done. Of course , the dealership will try to talk you out of it (financing with the CU) and maybe even back out of selling you the car, but legally, they cannot do that if the car is available. I don't know how it is where you're at , but here in california, dealerships, cant get the FRS/BRZ fast enough to sell them.

Just my 2 cents, goodluck

It's very difficult to quote a monthly payment when you have no idea where you stand from an interest rate perspective.

Chances are that for his 5 year lease option, he's providing you with the tier 6 or tier 7 "money factor", pending a credit application.

If that's the case, you're setting yourself up for the F&I guy to pad the deal with warranties and other insurance products you may not want once the actual money factor/interest rate is settled -- a lower monthly payment than first quoted, but still high.

At our dealership, our pure price for Tier 1/1+ customers is the same $293 + taxes for 36 months with $1999 down. A 5 year lease (while not a good idea at all) should in theory give you a LOWER base payment before taxes, with the same money down.

Granted, it's been almost 3 years since I worked in the sales department, but unless I'm missing something the numbers in the OP don't pass a sniff test in my mind.

Once you have your credit run, read your paperwork VERY CAREFULLY before you sign anything.

Thanks, I haven't agreed to anything yet. I want to know exactly why the price is close to $32k for the car when I've only added on 4 options. I'm not signing anything until I get the price I want, even if that means I walk away and try a different dealership or have to end up waiting longer to get the car.

'Credit and all those things' are factored into what price they can do. Unless they just quote you based on a rate so stupid high they don't care what your credit is.

They can tell you whatever. You don't know is the thing - otherwise you wouldn't be here asking. I reiterate, you need to learn about financing before you go back in. That way when you're there, you will
know if the numbers make any sense. Also download a payment up for your phone before you go in so that you can check the numbers.


Finally, to get on my soapbox, it's downright stupid to be purchasing or leasing a car that costs as much as your yearly income.

I would never, ever, lease a car for more than 36 months. 24 is preffered. If you are going to consider driving a car for more than 2-3 years, you should be buying it.

And yes. Don't focus on the payment. Focus on the price of the car out the door. The dealer could be adding who knows what...

As the others said, make a cash "out the door cost" which includes tax, title and license...everything down to the last cent. THEN, you apply whatever loan rate you have received from either the bank of your choice or theirs if the rate is lower.

Now not only do you have a cash price for the car, but also a financing rate that you can determine the monthly payment from yourself. Do NOT ask them what the monthly is, because YOU already know.

There are loan calculators all over the internet, just type "loan calculator" into your search box and insert the numbers. I can almost guarantee that they will have a different number if you ask them rather than tell them what the monthly is because they are banking on the fact that you don't have access to a calculator or are too stupid to use one. Don't let them be right.

Can someone please comment on the following lease deal:

Selling price $28,180 (10 series FRS) MT

36 month/ 12K/yr

Money factor 0.00180

L.E.V.% 66.18%

Lease End Value $18,649.00

Tax 860.67

Total Add Cap Costs $1,168.00

Cash Cap Reduction $574.59

Cap Reduct Tax 6.25% $35.91

Adjusted Cap Cost 28,773.41

Base Monthly Rental $366.59

Amt due at start $1,000


Total Monthly Payment $389.50

Total Working Cash $1,000


I can't make sense of this deal.






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What if you just compared the invoice they create to what shows up online, and then point out the differences? That way you can answer the question yourself :D

I am hoping to learn which factors can be negotiated or improved to my benefit. Assuming the website has a calculator which doesn't "show the work".

For all I know this is the worlds worst lease deal.


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a) For all the people saying he's getting a bad deal, he's in Canada. The price of cars is way higher up here compred to you guys in the US.
b) to the OP - Based on double checking your numbers, when you did your own pricing calculations, you did not the button at the bottom of the page that says "Include applicable Taxes, Levies, Fees, Freight and Delivery". That stuff adds quite a bit to the total.

Hopefully this helps you out.

If you have no problem paying for a lease based on the selling price of the car being over $36k OTD, then go for it...cause that's what those numbers look like they mean to me.

Update: I decided to ditch them and go to another dealership the next day. Got all the same things I asked the original dealer for. I negotiated the price down to $403/month, plus they threw in free 20% tint all around!
Now I have to wait because the original dealership sold that FR-S already so my dealership can't trade with them. The one they'll be getting for me is at port though, so hopefully only a week or two wait at most!

Are you telling us that you just leased a car for 5 years?

Yeah I did. I'm not sure yet if I'm going to keep it for longer than 5 years, and I can buy it out at the end if I really do want to keep it. No one in my family has ever just bought out a car, and it's been fine.
For example, my mom's 2008 Civic's lease just ended last month, and the buy out was $7,500. My mom wanted to keep it so we paid that and now it's ours. You might think it was pointless to lease it in the first place then, but think about it this way. We paid lower monthly payments for 5 years on the car than financing, and bought the car for $7500, but we could still make more money off it by selling it ourselves now since the same used Civics right now are about $12,000 here, so we could make that money if we wanted.

The buy out at the end of the lease for the FR-S is about $11,400 but the actual price of a used 2013 FR-S in 5 years is probably going to be around the $15,000 or $16,000 mark.

whats the sticker price of the car ur leasing?

i hate it when the sales guy tells me what i have to pay monthly. i dont really care what i have to pay monthly, i just want to know what it cost after all said and done

What part are you stuck on? Seems like the lease I am running right now.

A dealership that is dealing on Scion is in violation of the Scion Rule. They risk losing Scion all together. The point of Scion was to have ONE price that everyone pays. The only reason the price would go up with Scion is if you added accessories to your car. Those are also PURE PRICE. There should be no negotiating on anything Scion. A dealer that is dealing like that is one that I would not work with because who knows what other shady stuff they are up to. Just my opinion. I used to be the Scion Manager at a dealership.

The price of the car was $26,300 plus tax, came to about $27,900. This was the base price, and then after adding all the things I wanted, it was about $30,600.

It wasn't exactly a negotiation, but more like the dealer's perks. The price of the car remained what it was, but they make about a $1000 profit for every FR-S they sell, not including the marked up stuff like extended warranty and paint protection and all that, from which I only got the $450 undercoat sound proofing. The dealer decided to cut their $1000 profit in half and they put $500 as a down payment for me, which also includes the tint they're doing for me and free oil service and labour for life.

I can lease an Audi A4 for close to the same payment that Scion is quoting me. What is my dealership's major malfunction? I will not lease at $400/month for a 28K vehicle.

Dealers have all sorts of ways to hide money in a lease, that's why they are pushing hard to bring back leasing. It can be good in some cases but often times not so much with cars like this. My dealer got me 1.79% for 72 months and i pay less than all of your leases you're talking about. Just depends how hard the dealer wants to screw you I guess.