AVO "Stage 2" Build
 

So this thread is for my new AVO turbo build. Been working with Paul and getting this thing all together. Preliminary but man this thing is a great kit. Running into some logistic issues initially, but have to say, Paul has been great, must never rest. I literally got a new tune from him like at 1am in the morning from him on a Sunday!

I think he understands that for many of us the joy of working on our cars and being limited to off-hours and weekends. Really tries to accomodate whenever possible. There now that my little AVO plug is done, on to the install.

I am in my garage typing this, so still very much in the middle of installing everything, but wanted to get the post and placeholder in place.

I will get more info, pictures, dyno vid and more soon.

Sat-Sun - Finish putting turbo together, check for leaks/problems.

Monday-Tuesday, New injectors and Fuel Pump, possibly MBC or EBC.

Weds...on the dyno and dual tuned for e-85 and 91. Not sure on boost levels yet, We will figure that out more when being tuned.

This week research clutch and brakes. and then order those for install.

Teaser pics and more pics and better writeup coming soon. Apologize for these pics, taken with my cell phone, so not the greatest.

Parts Arrive, Avo turbokit, Avo bov, Avo oil catchcan, 3-Bar Map sensor
http://i1034.photobucket.com/albums/...ps484adf64.jpg

Engine Before, Injen intake
http://i1034.photobucket.com/albums/...psac13e2d1.jpg

In progress
http://i1034.photobucket.com/albums/...psd86558b1.jpg

Datalogging and setting up AEM failsafe
http://i1034.photobucket.com/albums/...ps6832bf38.jpg

why replace the clutch? can't the stock clutch handle the avo kit? thanks for the post, i can't wait to see what it looks like all finished!

one question: what is the difference between stage 1 and stage 2 of the avo kit?

It can handle AVO kit stage 1. Stage two can still be handled by stock clutch, but not for a long time.

Difference between Stage 1 and two:

Stage 2 Kit Hardware:
The AVO Stage 2 Kit utilizes all of the hardware of the Base Stage 1 kit, and adds on the following components:

AVO 7psi Actuator
3-bar MAP Sensor
AVO Street Breather Tank system with Turbo PCV Valve Upgrade
AVO Ceramic Coated Cross-over Pipe
AVO Stainless Steel Front Pipe with 5" Metal Cat
Stage 2 Base Map [EcuTEK]

Whats the Weight of this kit sir? I mean whats the shipping weight was?

Interested to see the gains on the stage 2. I'm number 7 on the Order list for the month of July, can't wait to put this kit in.

How much did it cost you?

Edit: im wondering if someone has already solved the fuel starvation when cornering.

Would you mind a pic of the bov outlet, I have a spare blitz bov that I wanted to use it just want see how the outlet looked.

sub'd

Well. Kit all together and took for test run with stage1 base map. Seem to work well. Really starts to kick in around 2500 or so. I installed the stage2 map and upgraded 3bar map sensor. Took for a new run and noticed a goofy sound.....exhaust leak...ugh. After getting under there with a steth, determined its leaking from both the header gaskets...

So pulled the turbo/headers off and ordered some new gaskets from subaru. In the meantime put in new injector dynamics 1000cc injectors and a new Deatschwerks fuel pump. Doing an AEM failsafe, so will be wiring in a boost solenoid for the failsafe feature to cut to wastegate spring pressure on alarm.

Also since i have the turbo and headers back off, going to wrap them and add a turbo blanket. Hope to have this back together in the next 2 days or so, then off to the tuner for dyno tune.

Will be doing a dual map tune ECU controlled boost, user switchable with cruise control to toggle between e-85 and 91. Looking to do around 11-2 psi boost on this. More to come.

This is quickly ballooning out of control, and man...keep spending money.

See if this works for you.

http://i1034.photobucket.com/albums/...ps04a9fdfa.jpg

Thanks for the pics, do you think you will be posting of any vids of in/out cabin noise, like to know how that thing sounds.

that's a pretty bov. i almost wish i would've went with a recirc. keep it low profile :)

Been at my tuner for 2 weeks now getting finessed. Doing a dual tune 91 octane and e-85. Using map switching via cruise control switches. Probably around 7-9psi on 91 and 12-13 on the e-85.

Hope to have dyno stats, vids and pics soon. Suppose to be done in the next few days. 91 tune is done and stable, but really tweaking the e-85 tune.

did your breather tank come with the oil cap feeler replacement?

My car:

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W7uqfy6ZAJI"]Subaru BRZ with AVO Kit drive by video - YouTube[/ame]

Thanks David, I added the BOV to my kit. Can't wait for my kit supposed to be #7 in line for July.

Patience becomes a virtue waiting for the kit!!! I was on the edge!

Yes it did. Need to get some updated pics up soon. I will put one up showing that tonight. Its real nice.

The AVO breather tank is really nice.

Ok, so picked up my car from the tuner. Its not done though. Just got a "temporary tune" to drive while he waits on word from ECUtek on the ebc system. You can see in the 2nd pic down that there is both a MBC and EBC on the car. The Manual boost controller is currently inline and controlling boost until we work out the EBC stuff.

Bigger thing is i need a new clutch. As many have noted, the clutch is good until around 300whp. At 284 with 9psi it started to slip, alot. So we dialed it back to around 8.5psi, with very little slip and i am driving it like that for now. I will be looking for a new clutch and try to get that ordered and installed in the next week or two.

Then get it back to my tuner for followup tune.This is all E-85.

I put a couple dyno shots as well.

Engine
http://i1034.photobucket.com/albums/...ps03540072.jpg

GrimSpeed Boost Controllers
http://i1034.photobucket.com/albums/...ps7e667785.jpg

AVO Oil Breather
http://i1034.photobucket.com/albums/...ps68facbb2.jpg

http://i1034.photobucket.com/albums/...ps4710a919.gif

http://i1034.photobucket.com/albums/...ps7cc37369.gif

Nice build i cant wait for my Stage 1 to come in and start my process as well, keep up the good work.

Yeah, i got to tell you, even with the base map from AVO at 5si i had when i first put it on, man, it was a huge difference. and was really nice. Pulled quick and hard.

I know it will give me the added torque that is missed, i figure depending when my kit comes in this should hold me over till about Christmas time or next year after winter then Stage 2. I will have time to gather all the essentials for the build:burnrubber:

@gdrider77 I would recommend the AVO clutch and flywheel. I have driven Bob's car from @Drift-Office (Thank you again Bob), he has the AVO 15 lbs flywheel and the organic clutch in his AVO Turbo charged FRS. OMG!!! I loved the way it felt. just a slight touch stiffer then stock and the engagement was amazing. I did not notice and nose from while driving the car. I did not push the car as I do not own it, but the reason I was allowed to test the vehicle was to feel the AVO clutch and flywheel.

over the last 10 years I have felt several different clutch and the first impression of this clutch was amazing and I was sold on the spot. I will be ordering the ceramic disk and Ill share my impression upon install. According to BOB and Paul @AVOturboworld they will feel the same just handle the heat better because of the minerals.

Maybe you didn't but according to the logs after, others did! :)

Sure i will. I have the exhaust out right now and working on the overpipe rattle, but once its back together i will get some vids both in and out and post.

Its nice in cabin. You can hear it, but not obnoxious loud. Might play with the vent adjustment a bit to tweak the sound. Nice thing about this valve is there is aplate you can remove for dump to atmosphere, or leave the plate in for recirculate. So you can pretty much tailor the dump sound to what you want, vent off and open for loud, or vent closed and on for quiet.

How's the BOV vent? Recirculation or atmosphere?

You have either option. I currently have the plate off, so it vents to atmosphere. My car is torn apart right now, but hope to put it back together in a few days, so will get some vids of sound/video to show.

Have you got the EBC working yet?

Not yet. I need to get it back to my tuner, but holding off until i get my new clutch installed. No sense getting that all working if my clutch is slipping all crazy.

Right now i got a new exedy clutch and short shifter sitting in my garage, hope to install in a week or so.

Trying to figure out the weird spool on this turbo also, as it seems to not make full boost in gears 1-3 until around 5-6k, then in 4-6 its closer to 3500-4500k. Not sure if this is right, but feels off to me. Hopefully something my tuner can work out.

Check for air leaks - it shouldn't take that long to spool up, so sounds like it has a minor leak somewhere. Not large enough to be obvious, but enough to delay spool and/or bleed off boost till it's hit the max on the actuator.

Yeah, i was kind of thinking that as well. I will look into all the connections and double check. One spot that i notice that seems suspicious is the airbox connection to the avo tubing, its just ...barely on. Going to try to pull that all off and go for a better, tighter fit.

Possibly it happened when i pulled all the top stuff off to tighten that oil connection. Have you been able to get those torque specs back yet? Its still leaking slightly. It is not the oil connection to the fitting, it is the fitting to the chra. Really want to get that oil leak fixed. I am going to pull it back out and then add some thread sealant. But want to wait till you get me the torque specs so i can be sure i tighten it just the right amount.

Thanks Paul!

I'll dig up those torque specs, I just don't know of anybody that's tightened it down to anything but "very tight". The bolt and the CHRA are of hardened steel, very unlikely to strip out.

Yeah, i understand, i just feel with my luck, i will tighten it too much and strip/break the bolt head. And then i am in a much more serious spot. I have already done the "very tight" and still a slight leak. I can put a breaker bar on the wrench for more leverage, but i am afraid i then risk breaking the head or stripping. Maybe just pulling it out and putting some thread seal will do the trick.

Thanks!

I had a leak there too. I put thread sealant and tighten it GOOD, and it stopped the leak. It was a B*tch to tighten too, as I didn't want to take anything off. A crowfoot wrench set did the trick!

What kind of sealant did you use?

Probably copper sealant

IF I recal correctly, it was "liquid" teflon

UPS just dropped off some parts........Here we go.

http://i1034.photobucket.com/albums/...ps9fa5538d.jpg

So, running some leak tests, and just not happy with the supplied worm clamps, so bought new t-bar style clamps to replace all the hose/pipe connections.

And a few new parts to add....

• Perrin Intake
• Whiteline camber bolts
• Subaru oil filters & Penzoil Synthetic 0w20
• Greddy mag drain
• Exedy race clutch
• Kartboy shortshifter
• Stoptech brake pads
• Turbosmart vacuum hoses

So worked through the weekend on upgrades....Everything went well. clutch was smooth as butter, till time to reinstall the tranny. Probably played with it for an hour, but just could not get in in. Pulled it off, put the slightest bit of lube on the shaft..and bam, slid right in first try;)

When i say slight amount of lube, I really mean slight, like you would even be able to see it, just barely put it on. I also like to use KY jelly for things like this. Reason being, its water based, and dries really fast. So put the slightest bit on and put together fast, the amount I use dries in like 3 minutes or so. This works well for the pipes too, as it allows the slide to connect, but dries fast and leaves little residue. Pretty much just evaporates and flakes off. You need the lubrication putting on, but once on, you dont want grease/vaseline, etc. to stick around.

Now I just have to drive like a grandma for 500 miles (which is hard, as i dont really drive this car much) or so to break the clutch in. Heading back tot the tuner on the 6th of Sept to get the Grimmspeed EBCS tuned, as well as map switching and more boost now that i have the new clutch.

http://i1034.photobucket.com/albums/...ps2a81d7bb.jpg


http://i1034.photobucket.com/albums/...ps276c9b38.jpg

All together for testing......doh!

http://i1034.photobucket.com/albums/...psda3317f3.jpg

LEAKS
 

LEAKS
I have had 3 major leaks with this kit. I have been able to solve all 3 so far, from what i can tell. Here they are, as well as what i did to fix.

Pressure Leak

So had really been noticing spool lag, an suspected it was the awful turbo inlet connection. Sure enough....it was. I ran a leak test and had major leaks at the Turbo inlet. Like gushin. No big surprise as most anyone that owns this kit, knows that the inlet pipe does not secure all that well. No rolled flange on the inlet, and the pipe is loose fitting. The clamp is all that holds and seals on this connection. The actuator mounting plate on the turbo housing is right in the way, and so it restricts a larger t-bar style clamp that i would like to have put on there. The other kit connections seemed to be leak free, although the connection to the stock airbox is not that great, as what i found is that the silicone hose is so strong, that it has deformed my airbox inlet pipe slightly, and the hose kept sliding off. That was an easy fix, throw it out....new Perrin Intake mounted. I did have to make custom mounts for the Perrin intake under the front bumper, as the angle and line up to the AVO kit is slightly different.

Back to the turbo inlet. I did solve the issue, and this is how.

As I said I pulled the majority of the kit piping and connection off/out. once I had the pipe off the car i lightly sanded the interior of the silicone with 600 grit sand paper. I also did the same on the turbo inlet. I then sprayed the inside of the silicone hose with hairspray, wiped it around and then sprayed the same paper towel with hairspray and wiped around the inlet.

Reinstalled the hose and used a new worm drive clamp. I really wanted to use a t-bar style clamp here, but it was just too big with the actuator mounting plate in the way. If this does not hold in the future I will probably grind down a t-bar clamp and make it work. Good news is, this new connection is tight! And I mean real tight, I can pull on it and wiggle the engine slightly but its not budging. The hairspray acts as a mild lubricant while installing, but more importantly, when it dries, it works as a mild adhesive to help hold the two objects together.

New leak test run....no leaks.

Big things to stress here, the worm drive clamp i used were new. I purchased new clamps (Made in America) for the turbo inlet, as well as the coolant lines, they were also leaking slightly.

Coolant Lines on turbo housing
the 2 that connect into the top of the turbohousing via 2 banjo connections. These were leaking slightly, and i do mean slightly. I blamed it on the clamps, nothing i could do would get them tight, and they just broke if torqued too much. I noticed the hose even with clamp on as tight as possible without breaking them, it would freely rotate on the nipple if i turned the hose, no good.

So purchased new clamps, installed 2 per coolant line, and all seems good.

Oil line
So the oil line on the turbo, between the 2 coolant lines was leaking. From the factory this connection was already preinstalled, and i made the mistake of assuming it was torqued down properly. It was not. I contacted Paul numerous times about the torque specs, but never got them. He did respond to me, but never with the torque spec. My concern was stripping/breaking the bolt/housing.

I got in there and tightened it pretty damn tight, but still minor leak.

After still trying to get torque specs and never getting them, i decided to completely remove the oil connection from the housing. I cleaned it off, dropped a couple drops of liquid threadsealer on it and then re-installed it. Never got the torque specs, but i did torque it down to 70lbs and it now seems leak free.

Summary

To be clear, the oil and coolant leaks i spoke of, were minor, but i am anal. Under hard driving after a day or so there would be maybe 2-3 drops of oil/coolant. So not like it was immediately visible. Very minor.

No leaks as of right now, time will tell. If installing this kit, and any other kit/parts really, always double check all connections. Even the ones from factory, it would have saved me alot of time had i just checked all the connections prior to installing. I found a few other bolts/connections that were barely hand tight, so i tightened them down more as well. I specifically asked Paul prior if all parts were torqued down correctly, and he assured me they were...and i am sure he thought they were, not his fault. Just a QC issue. Do it yourself, then there is no doubt.

Would have been real nice to have torque specs on the install instructions. Cant believe they dont exist?

Purchase new clamps. It will cost you maybe $50 total for better quality, made in america clamps. Totally worth it.


http://i1034.photobucket.com/albums/...psd366ac6b.jpg

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