How do you store your car for winter?
 

I drove my WRX in Alabama for 5 years and it looked brand new, underbody included. After a week(!) in Iowa, I had to cut my front endlinks off with an angle grinder.

I bought my BRZ planning on making it a garage queen for the winter. I'm toying with the idea of renting a storage unit for it so I can keep it out of the way in my garage. But either way, I'd like to hear tips on how to keep it stored.

I plan on changing the oil, giving it a good detail and wax and making sure the gas tank is full. I have mixed feelings about covers though, and any other tips would be great.

Thinking about winter already?

I wont be driving my BRZ in the winter either. I have a Silverado for winter duty. Even on nice days there's still plenty of salt on the road.

I store my 240Z in the winter in my garage. It gets put away from mid-November to mid-April until there are enough large rain storms to remove the salt from the road. I have a cover that I used for a few winters but truth be told the car seemed to be as dusty, if not worse, with the cover. Now I just leave sit in the garage uncovered. It gives me something to look at.

For storage I do an oil change, wax/detail and make sure all of the other fluids are topped off. I also remove the battery. I use to fill the fuel tank to the top but that always left me with a full tank of bad gas in the spring (even with using Stabil). Since the garage is insulated and dry, I store the car with a minimum amount of fuel (still using Stabil) and then drain it and put it in the tractor...that thing will burn motor oil as fuel. While I can't as easily drain the BRZ tank, it will get stored damn-near empty.

I don't...I live in California... ;)

I stored my FR-S last winter. Full tank of gas with some Stabil. Over inflate the tires some to take care of flat spotting (40lbs?). Washed and changed the oil. I did have the benefit of being able to fire it up every 3 to 4 weeks and let it run for a while. Never had a single issue. No flat spotting. Always started. After six months I put insurance back on it and drove it without missing a beat.

People have success with covers outside, but I've seen some where there was evidence of rubbing in the paint/clear from the cover due to wind blowing it around.

Winter here is seven months out of the year :)

I drive it. I put winter tires on it, and the good news is that I drive it from one covered garage (home) to another covered garage (work) and I also work from home more in the winter. I wash the car once a week if it snows and there is lots of salt on the roads. I will be buying winter floor mats, this year too. But otherwise business as usual.

One thing I have learned is that dedicated snow tires (I don't use the stock rims either) make all the difference. All season tires, IMHO are the worst of both worlds as you typically get poor performance in the summer and poor traction in the winter.

When I went to the gym last night I left it in the garage and took the truck because they were saying it might hail. Figured I might as well plan ahead for winter. :)

Still not sure if I'm going to keep it in my garage or rent a place. I have a 1000 square foot garage but only 2 doors and I don't want it in the to maneuver the tractor around it when I'm getting it out to push snow and would like the room in case I do any projects. But it would also be nice to have it there if I want to do any work on it.

Thanks for the info, looks like I just have to do some soul searching now. Only thing I'm certain of is I'm not going to let the underbody look like the WRX's did.

I store mine in my garage/basement over the winter and I do put a cover on it (the factory BRZ cover - damn cats!) and it looks perfect in the spring when I uncover it. I don't see how it can get dusty when it's covered, mine doesn't. Well, I guess if you take the cover off just to stare at it once in a while, it can accumulate some dust but otherwise, just wash it good before covering it so that you don't scratch the paint with the cover

I put blankets on it and a heater next to it to keep it from hyperthermia

I totally agree about the all-season tires. They are piss-poor in the summerand the winter. Plus summer performance tires run better in the rain than allseasons.

I always run a full set of winter wheels and tires. It’s so much easier, especiallywhen you have garage, couple jacks and air powered impacted gun.

I've been told by several mechanics that leaving a car over the winter in a non-climate controlled environment with a near empty gas tank will result in condensation forming inside and getting water in your fuel system. They suggested doing a full tank and adding fuel stabilizer to it and once winter is done, drain the tank and dump out the old gas anyways.

Here you go.

http://carcapsule.com/Indoor-CarCaps...arCapsule.html

Thanks, the Weathertech's were the one's I was eyeing..

I put on my Enkei's w/Hankook ipike tires (not studded) and motor on...

Tho, I'm not sure how much harder that'll be if I go turbo...

Condensation is a result of wide temperature swings and moisture. My garage is insulated and it stays between 40-50 even on the coldest days. It's a very dry environment. So I'm quite safe with an empty tank.

After reading numerous pieces of advice from pros to "anonymous internet soothsayers", I have developed my own checklist for winter prep. Since I live in southern Michigan, my storage interval is from late October/mid November to mid/late March. See attached file.

Note: Dumping a full tank of fuel and not using it in a week's time (after storage) seems superfluous to me. For what purpose will it be used??? A five to six month old fuel with Sta-Bil does not hurt the engine. The purpose of Sta-Bil is to "stabilize" the fuel.
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I suggest you just use an electric blanket (king size). Also don't you mean hypothermia?

Your goingto miss out of a ton of fun if you park it in winter. Snow tires with nannys off is extremely entertaining.
What i learned from old cars is dont put a cover on if you parking outside cause the cover will scratch the paint from wind blowing/moving the cover around.

Does remove battery for winter will reset the ECU? Some members suggest using battery maintainer, which one is better?

Use wheel choks instead of setting the e-brake ($5 each at harbor freight), click the "interior air circulation" button before turning the car off. I didn't have time to research a good trickle charger before it got too snowy so I did the shovel in front of the garage 2 feet, run the engine, pull her back in method. Worked fine for the first year, will work fine if your garage doesn't have power. Vacuum really well and take out anything such as gum or medicines, I put a few moth balls here and there. I used a parachute dust cover from ebay. As others said, oil change, full tank, wax, tire inflation are things I saw on all major car forums when I was looking.

Yeah, your ecu will be reset if you pull the battery. I would think either pulling the battery or maintaining the charge would be fine. You just want to make sure it doesn't get completely drained and die.